area restrictions & closures

Only a few are allowed for now.

Though the Jamestown crag is owned by the Southeastern Climbers Coalition, access to the cliff passes through privately-owned land. The landowners in the valley have been gracious enough to grant this right-of-way, so the SCC asks that all climbers be respectful of these property owners' privacy.

Additionally, the land above the cliffline as well as the land past the end of the SCC property is owned by private landowners, many of whom are hostile to climbers. Do not top out on the cliff under any circumstances. Do not climb in areas that are plainly marked off limits, and do not go past the sign at the end of the SCC property (about where the route Cinnamon Girl is located).

There is no camping allowed at Jamestown. The nearest camping is in DeSoto State Park near Fort Payne.

For the most up-to-date information on Jamestown, check the SCC website.

The SCC owns only the right-hand section of Yellow Bluff. The end of this section is marked with a wooden "no trespassing" sign; do not climb or hike past this boundary, as it could jeopardize efforts to open more cliffline in the future. Also, do not top out on any climb at Yellow Bluff as this is private property.

Please leave no trace and keep a low profile to ensure further climbing access.

The first few miles of the Matanuska glacier are on private property. Please respect the rules of the Glacier Resort so everyone can enjoy access. They are very nice people so you will have no problems at all. http://www.matanuskaglacier.com

This dome, and the surrounding 1/4 mile including Rockfellow Dome, is closed from March 1 - June 30 for nesting peregrine falcons.

This dome, and the surrounding area is closed from March 1 - June 30 for nesting peregrine falcons.

This dome, and the surrounding area is closed from March 1 - June 30 for nesting peregrine falcons.

Granite Mountain is closed between early February and mid-July for peregrine falcon nesting!

More info:
http://www.fs.fed.us/r3/prescott/news/2009/01-22-2009-area-c>>>>>

Area is mixed private and BLM Grazing Allotment. Please tread lightly.

Please drive, camp, and climb in a low-impact manner to prevent losing access.

The gate closes promptly at 4pm. If you're lucky, you'll have until 4:01pm. Don't get locked-in!

Scottsdale is enforcing state trust land permits in this area. Please pick one up and have it with you when climbing in this area! (2007)

Pick up a Yearly or Scratch-able Pass! Seek further details!

For the moment, access to this area by climbers should be from a temporary trailhead/parking area that is located near the old Morrell's Wall Parking Lot area. From there, the new Tom's Thumb Trail leads up toward Morrells Wall, Gardeners Wall and on to Tom's Thumb. Please look for, and use designated climber access trails.

The access for Mendoza Canyon is via the good graces of the owner of the King Anvil Ranch you pass through to get to the canyon. It has been CLOSED to everyone as of January 2009 due to someone stealing legally placed traps. Climbers are attempting to contact the land owner to resolve this issue. Please respect the closure in the mean time.

Contact Jeff Mayhew for latest information. He is user JMayhew on this site.

There is no public access road provided by the BLM to the Coyote Mountains Wilderness Area. This wilderness is surrounded by state, reservation, and private land. Permission to drive on an access road through the King Anvil Ranch property is granted by the owner during the months of September through February (access closed March through August). This access road also crosses Arizona State Trust Land. The owner of the King Anvil Ranch and the Arizona Game Fish have provided a sign in station for you to register your visit. Please sign in and sign out at the station. Furthermore the Arizona land managers require that you obtain a recreation permit to drive across Arizona State Trust Land. The application for this permit ($15/year) can be found at:
http://www.land.state.az.us/programs/natural/rec_permit.pdf

This area is closed from March 15 - June 30 for nesting peregrine falcons.

This area is closed March 15 - June 30 for nesting pregerine falcons.

This area is closed from March 15 - June 30 for nesting peregrine falcons.

This area is closed between February 1 and August 31, 2008 for nesting peregrine falcons.

This area is closed between February 1 and August 31, 2008 for nesting peregrine falcons.

This area is closed from March 15 - June 30 for nesting peregrine falcons.

The trail goes through the Girl/Boy Scout and church group areas. Please respect these group areas.

It is presently illigal to climb on the Navajo Indian Reservation. These climbs are listed here for historical purposes only.

ACCESS NOTE: Please note that the forest service has restricted climbing for any routes past the area of Red Wagon (just left of the Trinity Cracks) due to tourist safety. Local access groups are working to get this restriction lifted.

This area has been deemed off limits for climbing since the park was reopened a few years ago.

It now has become a development.

Here for historical ref only.

aka "Troon Mountain". Section for historical ref only.

Be sensitive of the house up hill and around one of the boulders. as Prescotts homlessness rises I have seen shanties back in the boulders so watch out. i have also seen used needles on the ground, what ever that means

During part of the year you are not supposed to climb here, because the peregrine need a undisturbed flight path. There are other places to climb during this time so it probably should be respected.

Please watch for information and postings with updated access information at the Queen Creek
Climber's Coalition.

http://www.friendsofqueencreek.com/

Please do not climb the routes to the right of the fence at the Percolator Wall. Please observe posted signs.

City Facility, therefore special consideration. http://phoenix.gov/PARKS/hikemain.html

From John Sherman 4/27/07: At present encouraging people to cross the landowner's property without permission reflects poorly on climbers in general. More importantly, it threatens negotiations to acquire privately owned parcels that include some of the best bouldering at Tamo as well as the tallest cliffs at Tamo, the bulk of the high end sportclimbing and a number of fine trad prospects as well. Climbers who wish to approach Tamo legally can hike in from the Kearny OHV trail system to the west - a high clearance 4x4 will shorten the hike.

Please contact the Prescott National Forest office for details. All climbing is closed on Thumb Butte to allow for Peregrine nesting during this time.

More info:
http://www.fs.fed.us/r3/prescott/news/2009/01-22-2009-area-c>>>>>

Please contact the Prescott National Forest office for details. All climbing is closed on Thumb Butte to allow for Peregrine nesting during this time.

Please contact Prescott National Forest office for details.

News as of Jan 2006 - This area is now CLOSED to climbing!

The quarry is now private land. This area may be in the guidebook, but the relative difficulty in finding the area (no climber trails, no obvious routes) should be an indication: THIS AREA IS OFF LIMITS.

The original trailhead was closed after someone was electrocuted themselves while playing on the powerlines. Access to the cliff is now gained by parking in a nearby park and hiking through a trailer park. As yet there have been no known incidents as climbers hike through the trailer park however, please be respectful of residents and low key at all times. Please observe any posted no-trespassing signs if they show up.

Permits available in Lone Pine or Bishop.

The far right side of this wall is closed due to the presence of Native American rock art.

Climbing is not allowed on a portion of this boulder any longer due to it's proximity to the nearby Equinox Marker.

Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.

This is a Wilderness Area and open for day use only - no camping is allowed.

The route Energy Crisis and the rock for 50' on either side of its are closed to climbing to protect Native American rock art in the vicinity.

Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.

To keep peace and tranquility in Kings Canyon, climbers should respect park service regulations. Let us work for a more respectful and cooperative relationship between the climbing community and the park service as the climbing continues to be developed. Visitors are limited to camping 14 days within park service boundary. Electric drilling should not be utilized beyond the wilderness boundary line at 5,000 ft elevation. Keep impact of new routes to a minimum. Pick up trash and keep food protected from bears.

Access to Kings Canyon National Park will cost $20 seven day pass, $30 annual pass, or $80 annual National Parks Pass. There are 4 campgrounds within park boundaries that will cost $18/night. Rare is the day one needs reservations and spots along the river are plentiful. There are also limited amounts of free camping along the river within National Forest in the lower end of the valley. Cedar Grove has no gas station but can provide groceries, restaurant, and showers.

Williamson Rock is under a temporary closure to all recreational uses, including climbing, pursuant to a ruling by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service that the area is critical habitat for the endangered yellow-legged mountain frog. Efforts by the non-profit organization Friends of Williamson Rock, in conjunction with the U.S. Forest Service, are underway to regain climbing access to Williamson. For information on the status of these efforts, and to learn how you can help, contact the Friends of Williamson Rock: http://williamsonrock.org

Climbing is restricted at the beach until after 5 pm at the height of beach season.

Do not drive into the Quarry. You will be ticketed $150 for trespassing. Climbing access is open, just park on the street.

Commonly known access for this area is on/through private property. Please carefully read alternative directions listed for accessing Main Wall Left.

The trail starts from a residential area; stay on the pavement until you reach the clearing. Please be quiet and respectful.

See link below for more details:
http://www.alliedclimbers.org/advisories.php

Eagle Peak - Seasonal partial closure will be implemented soon.
Corte Madera - Seasonal partial closure will be implemented soon.
Glen Cliff - CLOSED for seasonal nesting. Poway Crags - CLOSED.
El Cajon Mtn - Closed area to the west of the prow of the mountain (west of the scrambling route)

Go to www.Alliedclimbers.org for more information on the seasonal nesting advisory for the west side of Corte Madera

Permits can be acquired at the ranger station on the way to the boulders from the upper Tramway station.

Summit Rock has been shut down for seasonal raptor nesting; however, County Parks wants to make this a blanket, indefinite closure, continuing long after the chics have fledged (i.e. between Feb. 1st and July 31st).

For more info, visit the Santa Clara County Parks website and look for the Sanborn County Parks Master plan.

http://www.sccgov.org/portal/site/parks/parkschp?path=%2Fv7%>>>>>

Like a lot of the Pinnacles area, the High Peaks is subject to raptor closures. These closures affect all of the high peaks. The closures typically begin mid January and continue through to the middle of July. Please take these closures seriously. Our access to the High Peaks depends on our ability to respect these closures. For more info on closures go to the Friends of Pinnacles website (http://www.pinnacles.org/climbing_info/index.html)

Please, no bolting without group consent. Your 'route' might be a highball problem.
No trash. No graffitti. No chipping or glueing.

This is a wilderness area. Please use "leave no trace" practices.

Climbing access is open but parts are on private property. Please be respectful of property owners.

Peregrine Falcons are nesting again at Lover's Leap. Please avoid the areas displayed on the map posted below. A closure will be in place at the center of the wall starting in mid-April and ending in September. A detailed listing of closed routes and any changes in the information regarding the peregrine falcons will be posted on the Eldorado National Forest website http://www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado. If you require addition information contact Susan Yasuda, District Wildlife Biologist on the Placerville Ranger District 530-547-5317.

Here's a map:

2009 Closure Map Submitted By: Amy Ansari on Jun 15, 2009 <@? echo PostCache::objectEditBar(106461853,"APPROVED","IMAGE", "COMMENT", "edit, move, del, reassign",array(105990845,10574,106393781),array(105708955,105708959,105798291,105733959,106461853),"106393781", "" ); ?@>

Do not trespass across the private property which is west of the crag. Presently, the access policies are up in the air and failure to respect private property could inhibit future access. To avoid trespassing on private property, stay along the base of the crag.

Closed as of May 1, 2009:
Overlooking Little Yosemite Valley. Closure includes all routes from Autobahn" east to and including South Face Route.

For more info, go to:

http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/climbingclosures.htm

Portions of this area is closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged.

East of Glacier Point Apron. Closure includes all routes above 200 feet from the base of the cliff east of Glacier Point Apron including "A Mother's Lament" to the Illilouette Gorge.

For more info, go to:

http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/climbingclosures.htm

This area is closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged.


Lower Merced Canyon. Closure includes "Super Nova" and extends west to all climbing routes on all sides of the Rostrum. The "Jungle Gym" area remains open. Slack-lining is prohibited at the summit and the top of the adjacent cliff.

See the following website for more info:
http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/climbingclosures.htm

Portions of Arch Rock are closed as of May 21, 2009:
Lower Merced Canyon. Closure includes all routes above Arch Rock, from "GRE" east to but not including "Juliette's Flake", including "Cross Country," "Kindergarten Crack," "Quickie Quizzes," and Arch Rock Pinnacle. The routes from "Anticipation" east to "Grokin" remain open.

For more info, go to:

http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/climbingclosures.htm

This is a fragile alpine bouldering area and following Leave No Trace principles is important. Never stash pads. Do not alter landings, chip or glue holds, or remove or alter vegetation. Walk on hard surfaces such as boulders or established trails. Store your gear on boulders instead of dirt or vegetation. Clean up spilled chalk and tick marks and brush holds. Keep your presence low key and unobtrusive. Pack out everything you brought and anything else that shouldn't have been left there. RMNP rangers are very aware of the impact that bouldering has on this environment.

The majority of these boulders are located within the Mt Evans Wilderness Area, which is regulated & patrolled by the US Forest Service. Climber's should be on their best behavior, practice Leave No Trace, and please abide by these requirements:

- Approach Areas A, B, & C via the Chicago Lakes trail (from Echo Lake).

- Wilderness Permits are required for all visitors to any federal Wilderness Area. Permits are free and self-issued. A Kiosk is located at the point where the Chicago Lakes Trail departs from the reservoir, at the entrance to the Wilderness Area.

- Group Size: travel in federal Wilderness Areas is limited to groups of 15 people or less. If you find yourself in an area, say around the Dali Boulder, where there are more than 15 people, please disperse. There are plenty of excellent boulders elsewhere.

- Minimize creation of social trails. None of the trails surrounding the bouldering area are officially maintained by the USFS. Ample access trails currently exist, please stay on the existing trails, and do not create any more trails.

- Do not destroy vegetation. This is a fragile alpine environment, with a short growing season. It can take vegetation decades to recover from damage. Place crash pads judiciously, and keep brushing to a minimum. Before adding new lines, considered the damage that may be caused by additional foot traffic, pad placement, etc.

- Chalk is un-sightly to non-climbers. Please avoid chalking up boulder problems that are visible from the Chicago Lakes Trail, and in general, keep chalk use to a minimum. Brush all tick marks off after every sesssion. Use containers that prevent chalk spills. If you do spill your chalk, clean it up.

- Stashing crash pads is expressly forbidden by the USFS. Any pads found by USFS personnel will be confiscated.

- Noise: This is a wilderness area (did I mention that?) that is enjoyed by many, mostly non-climbers. The last thing passing hikers want to hear are your self-indulgent f-bombs, I-Pod speakers, grunting, etc. In fact, most other CLIMBERS don't want to hear any of these things either, bra. The easiest way for us to loose access is to elicit complaints from other user groups.

- Dogs must be leashed at all times. Consider others when deciding whether or not to bring your dog, specfically considering that dogs like to scare away wildlife, and most other users would prefer not to have the wildlife scared away. Obviously, clean up after your mutt.

Remember that we are guests in this area. Be respectful of other users and the USFS Rangers that manage this area.

The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws

Details
http://www.bouldercolorado.gov/index.php?option=com_content&>>>>>

The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
Ridge Two
Ridge Three
Ridge Four
Achaen Prnouncement
Argonaut
Dreadnought
North Ridge
Bear Creek Spire

All East Face routes on the following formations are closed 1 April to 1 October (routes on the North, South & West Faces remain open):
The Hand
Mallory Flatironette
Shark's Fin
Finger Flatiron

The following routes on Der Zerkle are closed from 1 April to 1 September:
Sunnyside One
East Face Left
East Face Right

Details

The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
The Goose
Goose Eggs
East Ridge
Mars Block
Nebel Horn
Tower of the Moon
Jamcrack Spire
The Pyramid
Incognito Crag
Devil's Thumb
Shadow Fax
Isolation Rock
Sunset Wall
Devil's Wing (W. Face)
The Matron
Lost & Found
The Sibling
Toddler Rock

Details

The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws

Details
http://www.bouldercolorado.gov/index.php?option=com_content&>>>>>

Sunnyside One
East Face Left
East Face Right

Mickey Mouse wall is generally closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31. Details

The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws

Details
http://www.bouldercolorado.gov/index.php?option=com_content&>>>>>

The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws

Details
http://www.bouldercolorado.gov/index.php?option=com_content&>>>>>

This area is now subject to the bird closures for 2009. Apparently, a nesting pair of eagles is in the area.

This area is now subject to the bird closures for 2009. Apparently, a nesting pair of eagles is in the area.

To protect nesting and roosting sites of falcons, Redgarden Wall from the Naked Edge (pitch 3 – top) through Sidetrack is closed from February 1st – July 31st or until further notice. Occasionally, these closures are lifted earlier.

This includes the following routes:
• The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only)
• The Diving Board
• Centaur
• Redguard (last three pitches)
• Semi-Wild
• Anthill Direct (last three pitches)
• The Sidetrack

Blob Rock is now open for climbing (May 2009).

Blob Rock, Eagle Rock, and Bitty Buttress are nomally closed from February 1 to July 31 to protect nesting golden eagles.

The closure at Blob was lifted early this year (2009) since the eagles did not nest there.

See http://www.fs.fed.us/r2/arnf/recreation/rock-climbing/brd/in>>>>> for the latest status on Boulder Canyon closures.

Boulder Open Space and Mountain Parks has temporarily closed Boulder Falls due to potentially unsafe conditions in the cliffs above the falls. No date was set for reopening the area.

Boulder Falls was still closed as of 5/19/09.

The only legal access to Lower Dream Canyon during this closure is via Upper Dream Canyon.

The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws

Details
http://www.bouldercolorado.gov/index.php?option=com_content&>>>>>

The access situation here is a bit murky. According to "Shelf Road Rock", the crag is likely located on state land that is leased to a local rancher. Climbers should treat this area as though it were private property. Keep a low profile, leave your dogs at home, and keep the noise down.

Over the years, this route has had intermittent access issues. At times, it has been legal. At times, it has been completely illegal.

This area is posted as “closed for hunting” Dec 1 – Jan 31 not because the area is actually being hunted but because it is a possible access point to the Centennial Cone area, which is. There is no hunter access through this gulch and the only danger to climbers is in the form of a ticket from an open space ranger.

Please contact the landowner for permission to climb here. Thanks!

From what I know of Parachute ice most climbs are major approaches and access from CO 215 is not possible without first finding what company owns the land and getting permission from somebody in charge. Our investigation found some friendly workers who told us we needed to go to the main office for permission, to very unfriendly workers who couldn't get rid of us fast enough. With these kinds of initial obstacles, climbing in parachute can be quite the adventure. Climb at your own risk. The climb I am going to feature in this area had all of these initial obstacles but the approach was from the I-70 side of the Roan Cliffs. Still all oil and gas land but no signs and very little activity compared to the CO215 side. Our outing was awsome because all obstacles for the day, including a brutal 3.5 hour approach and a 6+ lead were overcome, I do not gaurantee simalar results for future adventurer's. Be prepared!

The East Face of North Gateway is closed to climbers every year from around Feb 1 until early August, depending on when the birds fledge. It's not posted out there, but since the closure has been in effect for 20+ years it is incumbent on climbers to know about closures by stopping in at the visitor center and asking. The falcons always nest in a big pothole above the traverse ledge and below the Kissing Camels arch.

Access to Cathedral Park Ranch crosses private property in some areas. Consult a map and park your vehicle before Clyde and the tunnel to avoid crossing private land.

Please check on the most up to date status with the park if in any doubt.

This crag is on private land and the owner has decided not to allow climbing.

The city of Redcliff is upgrading their sewer system and has signs prohibiting the usual parking and hiking for Gilman. Also parking above, Frontage Road shoulder, is off limits.

The following areas are closed from March 3-July 31:

Twin Owls
Bat Flake
Batman Pinnacle
Batman Rock
Lightning Rock
Checkerboard Rock
Thunder Buttress
The Parish

For more information, go to the NPS website:

http://www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm

This crag is closed Mar 3 - July 31 for raptor nesting.

For more info, see the NPS website:

http://www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm

This climbing area is privately owned. The owners allow climbing but ask that no bolts or fixed anchors are installed without express permission.

This area is on private property. No climbing allowed.

The Kingpin Boulder is on private property and is closed to climbing. See Poudre Canyon (420's) Access Issue: Kingpin Boulder for details.

The crag itself is on public land, but it is good to obtain permission to cross the private land adjacent to the road.

Access to this area crosses the train tracks which is private property and therefore trespassing.

Access to this climbing area passes through private property near the canal. Climbing access remains open but keep a low profile.

Golden Gate Canyon is a State Park and a $5 (2007) fee is required for entrance. Self serve kiosks exist throughout the park.

After months of negotiation, Clear Creek County successfully acquired the 76-acre Oxbow Parcel that contains the Cat Slab cliff. While the cliff line is protected, the area is not officially open to the public until the County develops and implements a site plan to provide safe, off-road parking, which may include shifting the guard rail and gate to provide more parking as a short-term solution.

Cat Slab was a popular crag before it was closed to the public in 2006 due to liability concerns. The County purchased the land using $725,000 in lottery funds, awarded by Great Outdoors Colorado (GOCO). The County was supported by numerous recreational groups, including the Access Fund, Colorado Mountain Club, Colorado Whitewater, Trout Unlimited, International Mountain Bicycling Association, and Rafting Outfitters on Clear Creek.

Golden Gate Canyon is a State Park and a $5 (2007) fee is required for entrance. Self serve kiosks exist throughout the park.

Please pay the $5.50 entrance fee. If you can't afford to pay, go to clear creek. Don't poach and ruin it for the rest of us!

Keep a low profile

Permission from property owner is required for climbing access.

Climbing access is open but keep a low profile.

The southern entrance to the boulders is through private property. Please enter from the north.

Please note that there is currently no access to this area and if you drive down the road you will be asked by the land owners to turn around and leave.

In 2008, the gate was lifted on July 10th, but the court order at the gate gave the forest service until the end of July.

This summit is bordered by private property. Do not cross private property on the ascent or descent. The best access is from Alderfer/Three Sisters' Mountain Muhly Trail. Return by the same route.

DMP is currently working on a master plan that does not seem to adequately address rock climbing in DMP areas. "Rock climbing" may not be allowed on Elephant Butte.

This climbing area is on private property.

This area is located on private property and is closed to climbing. Please be mindful if you try this place out, by seeking any permission necessary. This area is listed here due to its history with early climbing in the area, by many groups such as the Colorado Mountain Club.

They were so nice I thought they might offer us their horses! Back in the day, if you showed up at the gate, someone would come out to meet you. It's worth it for this cool crag.

It is quite possible that this area is on private land and is closed to climbing.

The Idarado Mine owns large portions of land, including the access road, that they have been kind enough to maintain partially and allow the public to use. Obey the rules and keep a low profile to ensure continued access.

Keep a low profile and stay on the trail from the parking lot at the Ames Power Plant.

Access is closed to climbing April 1 to August 1.

Climbing here is not technically legal, however , it is tolerated. Please keep a low profile.

The people who live near the entrance get mad when you park on their property.

This is on private land owned by the Mashantucket Pequot Tribal Nation. There has been climbing there for decades without access issues. Please be respectful of that and don't do anything to jeopardize that.

Signs bordering this whole area read "Centennial Watershed State Forest, Public Water Supply, Public Access by Permit Only"

From some research I've done it seems that this land is managed by the Redding Land Trust. Here is their website - http://www.reddingctlandtrust.org , and email: info@reddingctlandtrust.org

This area is managed by Redding Land Trust and is part of the Centennial Watershed State Forest (as far as I understand). Their website is, http://www.reddingctlandtrust.org and they can be contacted @ info@reddingctlandtrust.org

Devil's Den is a Nature Preserve and should be treated as such. This probably means no bolting, and I would assume that using chalk should be kept to a minimum. The Nature Conservancy manages the land (I think) and this is apparently CT's most visited preserve. More info can be found @ http://www.nature.org/wherewework/northamerica/states/connec>>>>>

This crag is on private property but so far the landowners have had no complaints. Keep a low profile.

This crag is located on private property right next to the road. The owners have been kind enough to allow climbers to use their land for recreation. Please respect this so that the area may continue to be accesable.

Due to the violent wind storms of May 2009, the Shelter 1 Bluff is closed until the debris cleanup is completed.

Only Ice climbing when permitted... Check with the rangers station to see if ice climbing is open. 815-667-4726.. NO MIXED CLIMBING!!! Damage to the sandstone will close ice climbing to this area.

You can read about the warning here. There is extensive rebolting being done to replace suspect bolts with titanium glue-ins.

The vilagers love us and have no problem with use climbing there they just ask us not to eat their Shiquashas.

Access is constantly changing with the mood of the locals, be prepared to pay a fee to climb, but never pay more the RMB 30 since if you pay once then everyone else will have to pay it too. Do this too look out for your fellow and future climbers. I advise checking with Beijing climbers as to the access and fee situation before making a trip.

The Pakistani definition of a mountain according to the Ministry of Tourism in Islamabad is a peak higher than 6500 meters, 21,450 feet. Therefore you dont need permits for peaks lower than that mark. Anything higher, or if you are hiking within 20 km of an international border you will need permits. For a permit, you need to either: 1. Licensed mountain guide OR 2. Pakistan Army Liason Officer (LO) to guide you along the way. The guide/LO has to be equipped with gear that will allow him to hike with you till the base camp of your peak.

You need a permit from the Ministry of Tourism in Islamabad. You also need either:

1. Licensed mountain guide OR
2. Pakistan Army Liason Officer (LO)

to guide you along the way. The guide/LO has to be equipped with gear that will allow him to hike with you till the base camp of your peak.

You need a licensed mountain guide from the Pakistani govt or an Army Liason officer to get in here

You will need a licensed Mountain Guide through the ministry of Tourism or get an Army Liason officer to attempt any of the high peaks in this area

Ministry of Tourism Mountain Guide or Amy LO needed along with a permit

You will need to contact a tour operator in Pakistan or in the US who has licensed guides through the ministry of tourism in Pakistan. They will arrange for a permit.

A permit and ministry of tourism licensed mountain guide or liason officer will be needed

2JD Park Entrance Fee

This crag is located on Australian Navy property. Access can be and is rescinded from time to time. Please obey all regulations. The facility is often closed to the public M-F.

You can order the permit here : www.environnement.public.lu/guichet_virtuel/escalade/index.html . If you come from far away, you only get 1 day permits.( You might try to come without as there are almost no controls. This is not encouraged!)

Check the signs in the parking pullout for closure dates. This area may be closed from 1 December to 30 June for Falcon breeding.

Please send me more detailed information if you have it and I'll update this.

Climbing is forbidden from Jan 1 to July 31. Making it a good autumn destination.

Some beaches are "private" but 5 Lira ($3) gets you in for the day.

This secluded set of caves and crags once housed ancient rock climbers that might have something to teach us if we look close enough. Don't erase any signs they may have left for us.

There seems to be construction being done on the top of the cliff, and so some of the areas below have been taped off due to falling rocks. We experienced falling rocks and men yelling at us to leave when getting to the anchors of Chimenea.

The Falkenwand as it is called is only open March through July

It is free to climb here, but the park is privately owned, that said, park, walk, and climb lightly. The main building in the park serves as a Kletterschule (climbing school) as well and often takes kids out to the crags, so if they do, be helpful and curteous, and give them the routes they need.

Be respectful as it is on private property. Particularly leave the olive trees alone.

Unfortunately there is a preservationist standpoint on some rocks in the national forest. Rocks with legal access are marked by small signs. Please respect the local laws to keep what is there open. An X with a circle around it, means climbing forbidden; an > with a circle around it, means climbing allowed.

X for climbing forbidden, > for climbing allowed

Black X inside circle = climbing forbidden; Black >; inside a circle means climbing ok.

Climbing is allowed from sun-up till the beginning of sunset. Chalk is prohibited. No new routes may be established.

This area is currently closed to climbing thanks to the thoughtless actions of a few discourteous people. Check at Bryce's Outdoor Centre for more information and current status.

The owner asks that you visit Bryce to check for any closure issues before climbing on the property. The area will be closed during lambing, which typically runs through July and August.

This climbing area is on a working farm. The owner asks that you sign the book at the gate before entering. Please leave all gates as you find them, don't disturb the livestock, and pack all your garbage out. The climbing here will be closed during lambing, which usually runs from July through August.

Jardines Farm; they don't mind boulderers to do their thing, give him some heads up (this may depend on lambing season, too). AND remember to close the gate behind your car at entry and exit.

Some logging roads have gates that are locked when active logging is occurring. Check in advance with a phone call to Lakeside Pacific, the tenure-holding forest company: 604 793 9340. Keys can generally be picked up from their Chilliwack office during normal business hours, or at the logging camp by prearrangement.

Falcon nesting closures are usually in effect from March 15 to July 31. See the BC parks website for more details: http://www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/parkpgs/stawamus/

From the BC Parks site:

Closed Climbs: Millennium Falcon, Sports Illustrated, Cloud Burst, Sea of Tranquility, Getting Down on the Brown, Supernaut, Clean Corner, Negro Lesbian, Crap Crags, Slow Dyke, Illusion, Planet Caravan, Warriors Wasteland, Freeway (above 5th pitch), The Big Slick, Brothers in Arms, Western Dihedral (4th pitch and above).

Open Climbs: Arrow Root, Cleaning the Brain, Deadend Dihedral, Rutabaga, Sticky Fingers, Slow Duck, Time Passages, Freeway (to the top of 5th pitch) and Western Dihedral (to the top of the 3rd pitch).

There is an excellent parking lot available (thanks to the BC Climbers Access Society, I believe), but people continue to park in the residential areas anyway.

Much of the Lower Malamute falls into CN Rail's right-of-way. More accurately, the starts of many of the climbs fall into this region. See this link for more details: http://www.access-society.ca/regions/squamish/areas/lower-ma>>>>>

Also, see Kevin McLane's 2006 edition of his Squamish Guidbook to see a image of what is and isn't accessible.

See the following link for more details. http://tabvar.org/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=>>>>>

The shortest access around the west side of the dump has heavy equipment operating during the week and should be avoided. Instead, use the access around the East side of the dump; it's longer but safer.

Please avoid touching or disturbing the large boulder next to the wall. It is chained off and has native petroglyphs on it.

Parking for 2008 has again been secured at Braeside Farms thanks to Mr. Hugh Dunlop! See:
http://www.skaha.org/index.php?option=com_newsfeeds&task=vie>>>>>

Access for 2008 and beyond has been the focus of a great deal of activity by a lot of people who deserve our thanks. The land purchase is pretty much done, but access and parking at the new site isn't going to be ready for 2008 so the use of Braeside for 2008 is big relief.

Parking in the town of Lion's Bay is a constantly changing situation. Watch the signs carefully and be willing to park down the road from the trailhead and walk.

The East Lion is off-limits due to its location in the GVRD watershed.

This crag is on a fire road on which local homeowners pay the city a lease or use fee of some sort. The homeowners are of the opinion that this grants them exclusive use of the road. While that may or may or not be true, they act on that belief and have cars towed and confront users.

The crag itself is on public land, so there's no problem with the climbing itself. Work is underway to clarify the road situation. In the mean time, best ways to approach the crag are (more details in the "Getting There" section:
1. park on Indian River Drive before the fire roads begin and bike in and out (and haul your bikes up the trail a bit).
2. Drive in and drop everyone off except the driver, then the driver can drive back out and bike back in.

Soon To Be Blown Up

Logging road access is before 5am and after 6pm during the week. Weekends and statutory holidays have 24 hour access. If you are unsure about the access, ask before you go.

Although you are technically walking around the property it will feel like you are walking through the owners yard. The owner is fine with climbers going through but please be respectful and keep dogs on a leash and the volume down.

Do not use the old Chimney Trail for the descent due to erosion and rock fall danger. Climbing is not an officially recognized activity in the park.

Climbers have access up to the roped fence. Owners do not want climbers going down to the river. There is also livestock that roams the forest. Please keep your dogs under control. Boulders on east side of river are off limits.

Peregrines are known to nest on the cliffs nearby (across Davis Lake to the west). They have not been observed nesting on this crag to date but climbers should remain aware of the possibility for nesting falcons and be prepared to retreat if it seems apparent that birds are nesting close to or on routes.

Some special rules apply to certain routes which are near native paintings. Access is by canoe or Alpine Club of Canada water shuttle

No access issues as of this date.

Must pay to enter the park... it's something like 5 or 10 pesos

Property has been abandoned and is for sale. We have permission to climb for now, but the future of the area is uncertain. Do not use any of the buildings.

This crag is apparently located on undeveloped private property. Although access has not been an issue in the past, climbers should recognize the owners' rights and obey any posted signage with respect to trespassing or parking.

Climbing closed at Black Hawk Wall and between the Gunsight and Chimney Rock. This includes the bolted climb Saving Grace between the Gunsight and Chimney Rock and two bolted climbs on Black Hawk Wall called Wedding Bells and an unnamed route.

More info available at rockclimbing.com:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_Stat>>>>>

Register with the park service before climbing in this area.

The USFS has closed a number of routes because they are located in close proximity to historical and archaeological sites. The following routes are closed indefinitely: Cindy Lou's Left Tube Seuss Seuss Sudio Fox in Locks.

Be aware, there may be more.

Permission and access can be gained at Red River Outdoors. This is typically a guiding area and not open to the public at this time.

It is legal to park along the road near Tunnel Ridge Road, but you will be trespassing at the bouldering area. It is not posted, and access has never been an issue, but many people live within earshot of this place. If you go, please be quiet and responsible and don't take dogs or large groups. Be discreet.

Muir Valley is owned by Rick Weber, please respect the area. We are very fortunate to be allowed into the valley. Follow the trails, don't shortcut, use the bathrooms in the parking lot. don't leave ANYTHING behind (except maybe your skin and ego)

This area sits above an active semi-private resort in front and State land behind. Access currently requires boating as the closest land approach is blocked by a lake.

Do not park along Park Street.

Added due to climbing history. Baltimore City currently does not allow climbing in their watersheds (based on local climber's information).

While the actual cliff of Friction Wall is on park property the longstanding approach via the train tracks is private. While climbers have been tolerated in the past, be discreet, park legally, and above all do not walk on the tracks!

Sugarloaf is a privately owned recreation area. The park is closed at night and the gate is locked. Allow enough time to pack, hike, and drive out the oneway road to the gate before it is locked.

This area is a nesting site for ravens. The landowners ask that climbers avoid the climbs/areas where ravens are nesting. The nesting period generally lasts from mid May to late June/early July. During this time, observe any closure signs.

The climbing is on private land the landowner (not the local climbers) is requesting that climbers do not publish information on the routes at Farley Ledge. The Western Mass Climbers Coalition folks are trying to help assure that the landowner's wishes are respected, and users are requested NOT to post route information on Mountain Project.

Since Farley is all on private land, the owners have the ability to take access away at any time if they feel that overcrowding is happening. And they are sensitive to this overcrowding and watching it.

In order to protect the access that we do have at Farley, we are taking down route information should be taken down in order to respect the landowner's wishes.

The WMCC is working on a longer-term solution for the area, and will make information more readily available so that folks understand the issues and don't feel that access is being restricted simply to keep the area sacred to the locals.

as with all buildering you are operating at your own risk. Each area has its own " bust potential." A bicycle will assist in traveling between areas.

1. The site is on private land and we currently have an enthusiastic welcome from the property owner. Please help keep it that way. Please be very respectful of this land and any passer's by. We are fortunate to have the privilege to climb here.
2. Park well off the road, which may mean parking a short distance from the crag and not near the corner/intersection south of the crag.
3. Access the top by walking north of the crag, past the road sign to a path leading into the woods at the low point of the hill and work your way back south to the top. Avoid scrambling up steep loose dirt immediately north of the crag as this will increase erosion.
4. There are currently several routes bolted and several others climbed and cleaned without running anchors or TR anchors. We will be putting running bolts on 3 or so of the existing lines but leaving some as topropes to avoid a grid-bolted situation. All bolts are either dark or camouflaged due to the high visual impact that would occur with shiny silver. Please do not bolt existing lines and be sure to contact Shaun Tracy, Kiri Namtvedt or Dave Brandt with any questions in these matters. Email Glenn Burns for contact info.
5. There are some nice double-winged hangers for rappelling off cruxes (not getting lowered off from, mind you). Should you come to a crux and simply can't pull through, you can clip into the anchor and thread your rope through and rappel. These are not installed on all climbs; the route descriptions will tell you which ones have them.
6. Route ratings are rough and some have a range rather than a fixed grade for now--I'm not interested in arguing about ratings but am open to opinions as this is how ratings become solidified. We approximated ratings using standards at Barn Bluff.
7. The crag is young and, as a result, still a little loose in places and still a little dirty, but not bad at all. More traffic will clean it up a bit.
8. The crag can support about 3 teams (2 person crews) at a time not much more. If you go, please carpool and bring small groups.
9. Always smile when the locals drive by and stay out of their way on the road.
10. Enjoy.
2. Park well off the road, which may mean parking a short distance from the crag and not near the corner/intersection south of the crag.
3. Access the top by walking north of the crag, past the road sign to a path leading into the woods at the low point of the hill and work your way back south to the top. Avoid scrambling up steep. loose dirt immediately north of the crag as this will increase erosion.
4. There are currently several routes bolted and several others climbed and cleaned without running anchors or TR anchors. We will be putting running bolts on 3 or so of the existing lines but leaving some as topropes to avoid a grid-bolted situation. all bolts are either dark or camouflaged due to the high visual impact that would occur with shiny silver. Please do not bolt existing lines and be sure to contact Shaun Tracy, Kiri Namtvedt or Dave Brandt with any questions in these matters. Email Glenn Burns for contact info.
5. There are some nice double-winged hangers for rappelling off cruxes (not getting lowered off from, mind you). Should you come to a crux and simply can't pull through, you can clip into the anchor and thread your rope through and rappel. These are not installed on all climbs; the route descriptions will tell you which ones have them.
6. Route ratings are rough and some have a range rather than a fixed grade for now--I'm not interested in arguing about ratings but am open to opinions as this is how ratings become solidified. We approximated ratings using standards at Barn Bluff.
7. The crag is young and, as a result, still a little loose in places and still a little dirty, but not bad at all. More traffic will clean it up a bit.
8. The crag can support about 3 teams (2 person crews) at a time not much more. If you go, please carpool and bring small groups.
9. Always smile when the locals drive by and stay out of their way on the road.
10. Enjoy.

Technically closed to climbing. Some folks still climb here so if you choose to, be discrete and leave if you are asked.

This is not private property but setting up top-ropes involves walking along the train tracks which is not legal. Be discrete and respect the land owner's requests to leave the premises.

To access the climbing, one must cross train tracks which are private property. Keep a low profile.

Land owner at the end of 123rd Ave W. Make sure to park in the new climber's parking lot, NOT AT THE OLD MUNGER TRAIL. The land owner still feels that he owns all of this land (not true) so stick to the climbers trail and climbing areas and you'll be fine.

This area is overseen by MNDOT. Keep a low profile and stay off of the highway. Stay off of the obvious climb in the dihedral where the tunnel meets the highway. Also note, the top is private property.

Climbing in Mankato is currently operating under a don't ask don't tell policy. It is imperative that climbers in Mankato keep an incredibly low profile at every destination entered.

Climbing in this area may or may not be trespassing but nothing is posted. Local authorities say the top of the cliffs are private land and the city owns the land below the cliffs. Climbing is legal but aware of restrictions.

The Lonely Boulder's property lines are unknown, it may be park, it may be private property. Just in case, I recommend approaching from the East (downside of the hill). Be respectful and keep the usual low profile! :)

Make sure you check with rangers before climbing the falls. You do not need a special permit but they appreciate it if you let them know you plan to climb. You will also need a MN state parks pass.

Available at courtesy of the owner. Please keep low profile and be respectful of the local residents.

Be respectful and minimize your impact. St. Paul parks require that you obtain an annual ice climbing permit. The permit requires a signed waiver and a fee. There has been dialogue with the city about this requirement and many climbers do not agree with the fee. For more information on this access issue see discussions on MN forums.

See the following website for more information:
http://www.stpaul.gov/index.asp?NID=1402

This is a St. Paul park and they require that you obtain an annual ice climbing permit. The permit requires a signed waiver and a fee. http://www.stpaul.gov/index.asp?NID=1402

There has been a dialogue with the city about this requirement and many climbers do not agree with them charging a fee. For more information on this there have been several discussions on MN forums.

This is a St. Paul park and they require that you obtain an annual ice climbing permit. The permit requires a signed waiver and a fee. http://www.stpaul.gov/index.asp?NID=1402

There has been a dialogue with the city about this requirement and many climbers do not agree with them charging a fee. For more information on this there have been several discussions on MN forums.

This is a St. Paul park and they require that you obtain an annual ice climbing permit. The permit requires a signed waiver and a fee. http://www.stpaul.gov/index.asp?NID=1402

There has been a dialogue with the city about this requirement and many climbers do not agree with them charging a fee. For more information on this there have been several discussions on MN forums.

there is a parking lot you can aget to from hwy 13.

Make sure to check in with Wolf Ridge ELC to let them know you are climbing and stick to established trails. Wolf Ridge is happy to let climbers use their property but avoid the beach if there are groups/children and do not use any of their gear (canoes, backboard, etc.)

This area is considered CLOSED by both the landowner who owns the fields above and the park service, who may have rights to the cliff, as it is along the Katy Trail.

This area is considered CLOSED by both the landowner who owns the fields above and the park service, who may have rights to the cliff, as it is along the Katy Trail.

June 2009 Update: There have been recent new developments in climbers access to Allenspur. For years the "Red Barn Antiques" property (now under new ownership) has been off-limits for use to approach the crags- all access has been via the Harper property easement. The current owners, however, are interested allowing climbers to hike to the crags via a more direct trail across the southern end of their property. The SMCC and the landowners have entered into a one-year trial period for SMCC Members and their guests to use this new approach.

For more info and photos:

http://www.montanaclimbers.org/access/allenspur

Please keep a low profile as access to this neat area would be sketchy at best, given the approach across a private bridge and potential land owner conflicts.

Leave no trace, keep the noise level to a minimum, don’t build any fires and respect all closed gates and fences. Be nice and respectful to any land owners and/or locals. Thank you.

There are two gates along the access road. Please close these as you pass through them to avoid conflict with landowners.

Drive a little past climbing area and pull off at trailcreek exit. go under the interstate and turn left drive as short distance and park just past the pink house ad right near the old cattle dock.

Visit http://www.hyalite.org for updates.

Please be respectful of the climbing area and minimize your impact. Access is open but keep a low profile.

The trail leading to the upper wall (just west of Psychology wall) is slowly wearing away. The trail actually continues past the large Ponderosa instead of leading straight up the talus/dirt slope. Please be mindful as we would like to climb here for years to come!

The trail leading to the upper wall (just west of Psychology wall) is slowly wearing away. The trail actually continues past the large Ponderosa instead of leading straight up the talus/dirt slope. Please be mindful as we would like to climb here for years to come!

say on main trail for about a half a mile

Mulkey Gulch is located on private property and must be accessed by a dirt two-track through private property. Please be respectful and only use the road in good conditions to prevent tearing it up and having access to this climbing closed. Also, as always use leave no trace ethics when at the climbing area!

This area has had access trouble in the past. The way in used to cross private property. Apparently the landowner has been contacted and he has proposed a way to get to Arrow without crossing his land. Please follow the directions closely so as to avoid his land. Also if you get your car stuck, try everything possible to avoid going to his house for help.

Leave no trace, keep a low profile, and park off the street.

On the approach, from the parking spot the first 1/5 mile or so is most likely on Private property. We don't condone trespassing but we've never had a problem moving quickly and purposefully, do so at your own risk of course.

Park carefully and quietly!!!

Access may be private.

Access through private sand & gravel works. The crag itself is on public land but access is unknown.

Rumney - Peregrine Falcons have taken up residence on the Summit Cliff. The
entire Summit Cliff (including “Flea Surgeon” and “Northwest Passage”),
as well as the Asylum Cliff to climbers’ left and the Monolith to
climbers’ right) are temporarily closed to climbing.

The Shield is only open from mid-August through February for peregrine falcons even though they are no longer protected, so you'll have to plan accordingly. The Knife Edge is open year-round.

The USFS-imposed closure applies to UNM Spire, the Prow, the Ramp, and the Shield (but not the Knife Edge). The Needle, and its south and east approaches, are unaffected.

Bear Boulder and the area known as Flame Thrower (on the ridge behind Bear Boulder)are closed to climbing per the land owner, the Chihuahuan Desert Nature Park. This closure has been made fairly recently and the CDNP is posting signs to notify visitors that climbing on their preserve is prohibited.

After careful consideration and discussions with Access Fund representatives and members of the climbing community, posting Last Chance Canyon beta will now be allowed on Mountain Project. However, when climbing at Last Chance Canyon we must be considerate of the Forest Services’ current ban on bolting new routes, climbing, and trespassing within the Solstice and Hermit Caves. The concerns of the Forest Service include archeological resources and rare or endangered plant species in the area. Please, tread lightly, and approach the area with a sense of respect.

Access Fund representatives are currently working with the Forest Service in creating a Climbing Management Plan for the area. We can assist them in this process by acting responsibly as a user group. As a community of climbers, it is important that visiting and local climbers share the responsibility in conducting themselves in a way that reflects positively on our larger community. Please respect the requests and policies of the Forest Service in order to preserve our access to this area.

Thank You,

Tony
New Mexico Mountain Project Admin.

See the access note on the front page. According to the Access Fund, Lincoln National Forest requests that climbers refrain from climbing in the Solstice Cave and Hermit's Cave.

According to the most recently published guide on Ship Rock ("Desert Rock", and "50 Classics.."), Ship Rock was placed off limits to climbing in 1967, but the ban was not enforced until 1970, following an accident. Since 1970, some people have made clandestine ascents without incident. Others climbing on the Navajo Nation have had their gear confiscated or been fined- it is unclear what the specific consequences would be if confronted by Navajo authorities. It is unclear if one can get permission to climb here from someone with the appropriate authority to legitimize climbing here.
Some climbers have talked to locals, especially the grazing-permit holders, and respectfully asked permission, and have had really positive experiences, climbing as well as a cultural experience, at other places on the Navajo Nation.

It is probably legal to drive to the base. It is supposedly illegal to camp there, however widespread litter suggests that this is a popular "party spot" (which may be deterrent in of itself). It is illegal to collect or remove rocks on the Navajo Nation, without a permit.

This area is included for historical purposes mainly, and as a location to put those amazing photos everyone has.

While some have made clandestine ascents in the area without incident, others climbing on the Navajo Nation have had their gear confiscated or have been fined. It is unclear what the specific consequences would be if confronted by Navajo authorities. It is unclear if one can get permission to climb here from someone with the appropriate authority to legitimize climbing here. Some climbers have talked to locals, especially the grazing-permit holders, and respectfully asked permission, and have had really positive experiences, climbing as well as a cultural experience, in some areas on the Navajo Nation.

This area is included for historical purposes mainly, and as a location to put those amazing photos everyone has.

In the past, the Los Alamos Mountaineers had access to this cliff, but this is no longer the case. Some have suggested trying to request permission through Corkins Lodge. Access and climb at your own risk!

"Climbers or others may not use power drills to place permanent fixed anchors". The BLM has the authority to manage climbing activities in Wilderness Areas. Although climbing generally does not require an authorization permit, BLM may require a permit for climbing and activities associated with climbing on public lands. As established by the Wilderness Act and the BLM’s regulations on management of designated Wilderness Areas found in 43 CFR 6302, climbers or others may not use power drills to place permanent fixed anchors in non-emergency situations. Climbers may use hand-powered drills to place permanent fixed anchors. Appendix 1 lists some of the relevant BLM authorities that apply to climbing in Wilderness Areas.

The remainder are on US Forest Service land. A map detailing the public areas can be obtained from the ranger station en route to the rocks from the village of Tres Piedras.
According to Jan Studebaker: "The property line runs from approximately the current east corner by the access gate in a straight line over the top of South Rock to the top middle of the Chicken Heads/Mosaic Wall mount, and from there west down the mount slope to the meadow just south of the Alley climbs. Some of the most popular routes are completely on private property. There are survey markers on the top of South rock (the mysterious aluminum stake stuck in the rock) and on top of the Mosaic rock (most of the time buried in water in a pot hole.)"

A new online Tres Piedras Route Guide from LA Mountaineers has been updated with the latest access information, and should be read by all Tres Piedras climbers. Group climb leaders, and Climbing Directors (future or past) should take particular note. From the guide:

Access Notes: Tres Piedras climbers should sign the waiver found on this page because the popular South Rock is mostly on private land, as is some of the access to the area. The landowner, requests a waiver, NO fires, no chalk and "please close any gates".

In order to nurture greater landowner acceptance of climbers, participants of group climbs are requested to organize quick clean up activities before leaving the area; this should include the climbing area as well as the access roads (trip leaders could supply plastic grocery bags). Small parties should practice "leave no trace" principles.

On August 19, 2009 the landowner stated: "Yes I still own the property, and yes I'd still like to have waivers on hand - even or perhaps especially from your organization. Only once in awhile do I have problems with climbers, mostly not picking up after themselves. My biggest gripe is that despite repeated requests, the climbers don't remove protection (edit: colored webbing, shiny hardware) from the climbing routes, which is both lazy and unattractive. Your organization could do me a big favor by doing a group climb and removing the crap that others have left on the various routes so that it is both a pristine part of the landscape, and so that each climber must figure out his own route without relying on the handiwork of others."

If you get ticketed for parking on the side of the road near the trailhead, its only a $5 fee you put a bill in and drop it in the drop box at the roadside camping area 2 miles west.

However, if you get caught on Maverick, you get fined a larger sum and/or arrested.

Rock climbing is not legal on the Colin Neblett WMA, which includes this section of Cimarron Canyon.

Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.

A portion of the Near Trapps has been closed to climbing. This includes land below the cliff to above cliff line and starts approximately at Eenie Meenie and continues south about 200 feet. Climbers are asked to respect the no-trespassing signs and advised to use the access trail marked in orange blazes. This trail starts at the intersection of the Blue trail over the top of the Nears and the first Red trail. Follow the orange blazes east and downhill from this junction to arrive at the far (south) end of the Nears.
For more information please view http://www.mohonkpreserve.org/index.php?news

Alpine Endeavors has been contracted by the Mountain House to be the only guide service legally allowed to guide at Sky Top, and ONLY to overnight guests of the Mountain House. This might seem completely unfair, but it's their sandbox - so, it's their rules. If you want to legally climb at Sky Top, you have to be an overnight guest at the Mountain House AND be guided. Even if you're an overnight guest who is a fully-competent climber, you MUST still be guided. Guided rock climbing is not included in the price of your stay; look HERE and HERE for more information.

Apparently, plans are in the works to have security patrols stepped up to prevent unauthorized access to the area. There will also be other methods used to confirm and prevent unauthorized access.

Regardless, this is a huge step in the uphill battle to win public climbing access back. Due to this development, the guide book information will be put back up, and the population of the route DB is encouraged.

The crag is owned by the Hound Ears Golf Club and is closed to climbing. Bouldering is allowed only during the annual Triple Crown bouldering competition.

According to the North Carolina State Parks website, Rumbling Bald climbing access is temporarily open. Check out their website for more info.

http://www.ncparks.gov/Visit/parks/chro/climbing_access.php

Rappel stations are located atop the routes: “Boardwalk” (for main section of cliff) and “Edge of a Dream” (for upper tier routes). Please see http://www.accessfund.org/regions/news/NC for more info

There is private property southeast of the cliff just off of the Buckeye Trail.

You must obtain a permit to climb with a rope system. Contact Mike Barnhart 216 351 6300, Ext. 264, with the Cleveland Metro Parks system. You can visit the Cleveland Zoo and get things handled their as well, but don't expect same day service. You must have proof of 300,000 USD personal liability insurance (home owners or renters) if you plan on using a rope system to be safe in the presence of our Honorable Rangers.

Last I recall they put up no trespassing signs below the damn because they were worried about terrorists blowing up the damn and ruining the water supply. Don't know how true that excuse is, but you can easily access the area but your not supposed hang out there.

Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.

See Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge page.

Currently the the US Fish and Wildlife Service is reviewing the Comprehensive Conservation Plan and reviewing activities for compatibility. Contact the Access Fund or the Wichita Mountains Climber's Coalition for more information on how you can get involved in keeping the tradition of climbing safe in the Wildlife Refuge. Use extra care to avoid doing anything to change the natural resources in any way.

Currently the the US Fish and Wildlife Service is reviewing the Comprehensive Conservation Plan and reviewing activities for compatibility. Contact the Access Fund or the Wichita Mountains Climber's Coalition for more information on how you can get involved in keeping the tradition of climbing safe in the Wildlife Refuge. Use extra care to avoid doing anything to change the natural resources in any way.

This is very important to remember, and the rules associated with climbing here must be respected if it is to remain open to climbers. In order to climb or boulder at this area you must sign a waiver and pay a one-time $8 fee at the Portland Rock Gym. Be sure to carry photo ID with you when you're at the area. Respect the land owner's property, don't litter, don't add or remove any bolts without permission, etc. It would be a big loss to the Portland climbing community if Carver were to be closed to us so do your part to keep it open and accessable.

Nevertheless it'd be great to put some information up here for Portland's most beloved crag.

There has never been any issues with climbing on this land. There is a fence next to the road that you cross and the trail up to the upper wall is not so good.

These rocks are most likely on private land. We have never had any problems. Maintain a low profile.

There is a sign noting the north side boundary of the Playground. There is about 60 ft. of protected wall due to a rare flower that grows there. Just don't climb between the two "no climbing zone" signs.

There are seasonal closures due to Peregrine Falcon nesting. Closure is usually from January 1 to July 31.

Rock climbing is not allowed 1/4 mile either side of the Monument due to a nesting pair of Golden Eagles. The birds are using Staender Ridge as a perch therefore it is also within the closure area. The trail which is on the backside of the Monument is open to through traffic, but hiking is not allowed around the cliff faces.

Prairie Falcons are nesting high on Picnic Lunch Wall. The bottom 50 meters are open to climbing. The second pitch of all the routes are closed, as well as any climbing above 50 meters. Opening date to be determined.

"The climbing and part of the approach at Trout Creek sit on a fuzzy boundary of BLM and private land. The land on the mesa above the columns is part of a huge piece of property owned by the original settlers of Gateway, the Vibbert family. It is used to graze cattle and for several months every year as a pay-to-play bird hunting “preserve”. The property also contains an old homestead, a large productive farm, ponds, creeks, 4x4 roads, and an amazing solitary gravesite on the canyon rim between the crag and the campground. What we have here is an old sprawling property with several spotty boundaries on its BLM borders. The family had some BIG reservations about people being up there, mostly because they assumed climbers would want to cross their property and of course they had concerns about liability.

Why have things changed?
By NOT attempting to access the crag over private property, we’ve built trust with the before-weary Vibberts. They feel much better about us being in the area (and that REALLY matters in this case) compared to their initial, understandable reservations. So long as we continue to respect their land by NOT using it to access the cliff, more climbers shouldn’t be a big deal…and more climbers is what posting will bring.

I had the recent opportunity to meet with the guy who manages the hunting preserve for the Vibberts. He mentioned that he checks-in on the crag (what the family calls ‘dry island’) and has been very impressed with the fact that people have been respectful of the land. The Vibbert family loves the area and appreciates the fact others do too (even if the climbing is abrasive and physical!!). They’re thankful we take the time to walk in from the campground and that we encourage others to only access the climbing from below (I.E. lead rather than walk around to TR/rap ). Since neither the county nor the Vibberts are 100% clear on the boundary lines with the BLM and since they once owned all of what is now Gateway, the positive relations we have established are key for long-term access." -taken verbatim from a post by Jeff Wenger on the topic.

Popular belief is that the rocks are on State Gamelands 51 while the trail and parking are on private property. According to the map on the Game Commission Website, the northern boundary of the gamelands does not start until the Casparis area (south of Breakneck). The land is actually owned by a private company, possibly logging. Regardless, the locals seem to be friendly and do not cause much fuss. Ensure that it stays this way by packing out your trash and do not block any of the roads with your vehicle.

Private property - youth camp. Be mindful of your language and behavior, and follow the rules. The camp staff are very welcoming to the outdoor community, but will rightly put their youth first above other users.
www.campeagle.org

Access is from the Main Wall along a shelf high above the river. There is a metal cable strung along most of this shelf. Clip into the cable with a long sling and biner for safety.

You will also see a large rectangular frame and platform jutting out from the cliff. This is a feature reserved exclusively for Camp Eagle. Please stay off.

"Sometimes called the single best boulder in the world, the Mushroom Boulder at Hueco Tanks, Texas, has been closed to climbing to protect the soil, plant life, and possible archaeological resources under the rock. The boulder, located at the base of North Mountain, was closed by Hueco Tanks State Historical Park in mid-December."

Please be sure that the boulder isn't restricted if you plan to climb there in the future. Hopefully, climbers will be able to get some dialog going with the park managers to deal with this issue, reopen the boulder, and mitigate climber impact in the future.

Day Use Pass and reservations required.

Reserve through the park or Hueco Rock Ranch.

Be sure to hike out the way you came in, it is more of a pain but if you don't you are on land that requires a guide. If you go to ground level and head either left or right, this is restricted access that requires a guide. So don't be lazy and take the easy way out, hike out the way you came in.

DO NOT even think about going down to ground level on this side of North Mountain as your actions could get the park closed to everyone.

See www.MonsterRock.info for all the latest access info, including fees, annual memberships, hours of operation, and release forms.

Climbing in the canyon is legal, but please maintain a low profile. Please leave no trace to minimize the chances of the park closing to climbers.

Some of the bouldering that can be found here is on public land immediately off the highway; however, the majority of the problems and the routes lie on private land, as does the majority of the rock in the area.

Do not park at the oil well. This has been closed to climbers. Park another mile or two up, then take the 15 minute walk back into the area. The entrance to the area is marked with cairns.

Be respectful, no dogs, and leave the canyon when nature calls.

Continued access to Box Canyon is at the pleasure of the private landowner. Please...no dogs, no defecating in canyon. Pack it out. Pack it all out.

The best single book for Maple Canyon Ice Climbs is Jason Stevens' Maple Canyon Ice Climbing, available at area specialty equipment shops (or perhaps from him directly if you contact him on this site). Read it, especially his section on vehicular access issues.

All of the climbs in Maple Canyon absolutely require snow to provide moisture for the melt/freeze which forms these climbs, so snow-covered roads are pretty much a given. Plan to hike or skin up the road. It's a nice warm-up for the climbing, and will alleviate a lot of opportunities for a headache.

Check the Friends of Indian Creek website for up-to-date information, as well as the BLM's Monticello Field Office page.

The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.

Important - Stay off the part of the wall that faces the road. If you are looking down at the water, then you shouldn’t be there. Access is touchy. Yes, there are good climbs there, but no, you don’t want to ruin access for everyone and there are just a few hundred other good climbs in the Creek.

Also, be good to the Arches Rangers and they are good to us. No chalk... no new anchors, keep the base clean, park off the road, etc.

Black Rocks is in the Red Cliffs Desert Reserve. No climbing is allowed at Black Rocks from March 15 through June 30 in order to provide an undisturbed environment for Desert Tortoise mating.

In addition, all pets in the Reserve must be kept on a leash at all times.

Crawdad Canyon is privately owned and requires the payment of an entrance fee of $5 per person per day. See website for more info.

Restrictions on route development, off-trail access, and appropriate use are the same as are in the State Park. Pets on leash, don't smash the wildlife and flora, etc.

Check with local climbing shops for access info to this and other Utah Hills Crags. Info at:
Outdoor Outlet (435) 628-3611
Hurst Sports Center (435) 673-6141

See the Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forest Service fee page for more information.

See the Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forest Service fee page for more information.

A well known and marked trailhead has been established starting from Wasatch Blvd. The trail adds some time to the approach, but is fenced off from passing through any private property. Stick to the trail.

During the SCLA/Access Fund Adopt-a-Crag Event (Fall 2007), climbers built a new trail from the Little Cottonwood Park-and-Ride. The trail provides easy access to lower canyon bouldering and climbing at the Bongeater and Crescent Crack Buttresses. To avoid traffic problems on the highway and tickets from the Utah Department of Transportation, please use the Park-and-Ride parking to access lower canyon bouldering and climbing. UDOT will ticket cars parked on the south side of the canyon opposite the Secret Garden bouldering area.

Included for historical reasons.

The land on which sits Black Peeler Buttress is owned by Perpetual Storage.

Be respectful of private property.

DO NOT use the road, as there are cameras and they will see you. Try to avoid knocking looseness onto the road, as that may jeopardize future access.

The Mount Nebo Wilderness boundary parallels approximately 100-200 yards south of the Santaquin Canyon road from the mouth of the canyon to Tinney Flat Campground. Wilderness rules apply within the wilderness area (nothing mechanized or motorized allowed, including power drills).

Unknown by many people, the land, from at the LDS Church record vaults up to and including the Gate Buttress is owned by the LDS Church. The privately-owned areas include The Fin, The Thumb Area, Green Adjective Gully, Schoolroom Area, and Gate Buttress.

Over the past 40 years there have been several closures of this property to climbing.

Currently, climbers are welcome visitors in part because of Utah's Land Owner Liability Law and the work of local climbers to preserve access.

In 1998 through 2000 this area was quarried and is presently under restoration and re-vegetation. The climbers' trail goes through part of this area. Please stay on the trail so that this area can recover.

Access via Big Cottonwood Canyon leaves little other options other than passing through private property and people's back yards to access the steep north facing hillside up to Powder Ridge Wall or Native American Crag.
The other and longer approach is via Ferguson Canyon.

This is private property. Respect it and consider it a privilege to climb here.

That does not mean access to Lots of Balls Slab or Rodeo Buttress are closed. It just means we have to hike around the clear area surrounding the Grist Mill.

North Creek Canyon is entirely located within the Mount Nebo Wilderness. Wilderness rules apply (nothing mechanized or motorized allowed, including power drills).

Trails and rock walls and terraces have been beautifully constructed on this private enclave. The owner, Ira Sachs, however, welcomes responsible and respectful climbers on these walls when there are no private events being held on the property grounds. Please be discreet and ask for permission while passing through the gate.

Many private parties, weddings, and gatherings are held here. When this is the case, out of respect for the people paying for privacy at these events, it is best not to traverse through the property to access the Pharoah's Hat or other climbs in the Pharoah's Glen area. The honor and privaledge to access this area is NOT a right, and certainly will be revoked if abused.

Access to the north face crosses private property which can be avoided via some serious bush whacking.

Due to the construction of a new home and a huge gate (monitored by a surveillance camera), it’s no longer possible to access the traditional “trailhead” and gain the obvious ridgeline leading to Apollo Chute. The new home sits right next to the water tanks that used to act as the landmark for the approach. Following the couloir drainage is unsafe due to loose rock (and rattlesnakes) and bushwhacking from the drainage to the ridgeline is a royal pain.

I fondly remember the days of driving all the way to the Bells Canyon lower reservoir. Now a well known and marked trailhead has been established off of Wasatch Blvd. It adds some time to tha approach, but is fensed off from passing through any private property. Stick to the trail

Access Resort Buttress via the climbers trail which originates across the road from the Grist Mill pullout.

Some areas in Bolton maintain a seasonal closure for Peregrine Nesting. Look for postings at trailheads and with www.cragvt.org.

Nebo Mountain has just been partially bought by a luxury home lot buyer. It is possible that the owner could make the road up to the top of the mountain a private one, severely limiting anyone reaching the climbing here.

Parking area and crag located on public land (i.e. Blue Ridge Parkway/Dept. of the Interior), but established routes have not been officially approved by Park Service so tread lightly and leave no trace.

Crag can be accessed from above and below, but both trails are steep and on loose terrain.

Always wear a helmet and announce rockfall. Crag is riddled with poison ivy, ticks, and snakes during the growing season.

The boulders atop 2nd were originaly accessed via the obvious 2nd Mtn Road. Unfortunately, this road is lined with private property and the landowners have had more than enough of hunters and climbers parking in the road at the NFS gate and blocking some of the last driveways. Access from Rocky Run, 100 yards further down the road, is all on National Forest land and is a nice warm-up hike.

down stream from the washed out bridge there are relatively three easy crossings via downed trees which can be seen from the bridge. once past the river walk back upstream via the small trail back to the main road across the bridge.

over the next few miles there are a few hill slides/wash outs which cut the trail and make it nearly impossible to see the other end. early spring of 09 i tied ribbons in direct sight lines in tree limbs.

From the Washington Park's Page
Beacon Rock offers excellent opportunities for rock climbing except where it interferes with nesting raptors, primarily on the south face. The presence of the falcon nest requires that the south face be closed to technical rock activity February 1 to mid-July annually; open the rest of the year. The east face is closed year-round due to environmental sensitivity. Call the park at (509) 427-8265 for more information.

Do not park directly across from mile marker 33 as stated in the guidebook. Just west of the mile marker is a better parking spot which lends to afternoon shade and only adds a few dozen meters of approach. There are private property signs but the land owners in the area expressed concern only with illegal activity and messes; pack out what you pack in and try to leave no trace.

From the Washington Climbers Coalition webpage:

"Summary:
As of April 22, 2009, most of Snow Creek Wall is subject to a formal closure to protect falcons that are nesting on Library Ledge, on Outer Space, the most famous climb in Leavenworth. The closure will remain in place through the nesting season, which is expected to end July 31, 2009."

For more info go to:

http://www.washingtonclimbers.org/Current/LeavFalcon.htm

A Northwest Forest Pass is required to park at the trailhead. In addition, during the winter you can only park at the highest lot if you have an Alpental skiing tag on your car. You will have to park at a lower lot and walk up, if you don't have the tag.

The property was recently acquired by the Dishman Hills Natural Area Association for public recreation. Access via Stevens Creek Road is currently not open but plans are in place to open access by September 19, 2009.

The lower Tieton crags (Royal Columns and the Bend) are closed for raptor nesting beginning February 1 each year. Depending on nest location and success, the closure can be lifted as early as April or as late as July.

The cliff band is on private property and has recently changed hands, which created some potential access issues. There are a number of "No Trespassing" signs on the land.

The owner of the property is alright with climbers being there. However, the "No Trespassing" signs will stay up, and are only there to "protect himself."

The landowner has also said that he is very pleased with what he's found out about the climbers and the etiquette of the area. He researched it online and found that we've always been very respectful of our privilege to climb there and that we value that privilege greatly.

With that being said, Bozoo is fair game for climbing. AS ALWAYS: BE RESPECTFUL OF THE PROPERTY AND THE AREA. NOT DOING SO COULD RESULT IN ITS PERMANENT CLOSURE.

While the climbing at the cliff is allowed (get a permit in town) accessing the "pit" via the steel ladder may not be.

The access into South Nutall has been ill defined for years. I am not sure of the best way in at the present time. Check with local sources for the most current information.

Any climbing done here is technically trespassing. I am posting it for history sakes and those undeterred by legal ramifications. Climb at your own legal risk.

Note that this area is not on Gov Dodge land, it's on private property.

Climbing is allowed on weekdays when the park is open; however, climbing is NOT allowed on Friday and Sunday after 12 noon. Climbing is not allowed at all on Saturday.

YOU MUST get the landowner's permission to climb Quarry Monster. Dennis lives in the last trailer on the road heading into the quarry.

The land surrounding the crags is a mix of Forest Service and private inholdings. Several of the minor roads lead to private summer cabins, some of which are quite close to the cliffs.

The main roads are all on public property, but don't drive down anything resembling a driveway or leading to a residence. Maintain a low profile when climbing here. Keep dogs in control or consider not bringing them out here. Camp well away from any cabins, watch your campfire carefully, and pack out all trash! The cliffs and access are all on public land and legit, but the proximity to private holdings requires sensitivity and best behavior. Be good stewards to this special area and we'll all enjoy it for years to come!

A pair of Peregrines have nested in various spots a couple hundred feet up the south face over the last few years. Do not climb routes adjacent to their nesting sites until mid-summer when they've left the nest. They will become agressive if they feel you're encroaching upon the nest!
Consider climbing elsewhere in the early summer, or on the West Prow and the Taurine Corridor.

I've never had issues on this boulder. But owner may or may not want climbers on this boulder. I have not been able to contact this land owner.

For respect of the local ranchers, always close the gates after passing through. Approach from the Nolan Pocket side is usually not restricted but there are closures for grazing leases on the Lankin Gap side from March-June. Be polite and non-confrontive to ranchers.