area restrictions & closures

On your first visit, go to the Blue Ball Barn to get a mandatory (but inexpensive) climbing permit. You must carry the permit with you any time you climb on ropes at Alapocas, or you may be ticketed.

Only a few are allowed for now.

Though the Jamestown crag is owned by the Southeastern Climbers Coalition, access to the cliff passes through privately-owned land. The landowners in the valley have been gracious enough to grant this right-of-way, so the SCC asks that all climbers be respectful of these property owners' privacy.

Additionally, the land above the cliffline as well as the land past the end of the SCC property is owned by private landowners, many of whom are hostile to climbers. Do not top out on the cliff under any circumstances. Do not climb in areas that are plainly marked off limits, and do not go past the sign at the end of the SCC property (about where the route Cinnamon Girl is located).

There is no camping allowed at Jamestown. The nearest camping is in DeSoto State Park near Fort Payne.

The SCC owns only the right-hand section of Yellow Bluff. The end of this section is marked with a wooden "no trespassing" sign; do not climb or hike past this boundary, as it could jeopardize efforts to open more cliffline in the future. Also, do not top out on any climb at Yellow Bluff as this is private property.

Please leave no trace and keep a low profile to ensure further climbing access.

Most bouldering is on private property, but access is allowed. Be respectful of the landowners, who run the still active mine. Minimize moss removal, to just the lip for cleaning. Do not shave the top of the boulders, so to speak. Stick to established trails when possible

The first few miles of the Matanuska glacier are on private property. Please respect the rules of the Glacier Resort so everyone can enjoy access. They are very nice people so you will have no problems at all. www.matanuskaglacier.com

Harbor seals and stellar sea-lions haul out on many interesting features. There are rookeries and other bird areas that should be avoided both ethically and to avoid being caked in poop.

In the early '90's the USFS banned all placement of bolts in the Superstition Wilderness. This unfortunately includes replacement of existing bolts. Violating this ban may result in climbing restrictions on this beautiful area. Please think twice and go bolt somewhere else.

Granite Mountain is closed between early February and mid-July for peregrine falcon nesting!

More info:
www.fs.fed.us/r3/prescott/news/2009/01-22-2009-area-closures>>>

For the moment, access to this area by climbers should be from a temporary trailhead/parking area that is located near the old Morrell's Wall Parking Lot area. From there, the new Tom's Thumb Trail leads up toward Morrells Wall, Gardeners Wall and on to Tom's Thumb. Please look for, and use designated climber access trails.

Scottsdale is enforcing state trust land permits in this area. Please pick one up and have it with you when climbing in this area! (2007)

Please watch for information and postings with updated access information at the Queen Creek
Climber's Coalition.

www.friendsofqueencreek.com/

Please drive, camp, and climb in a low-impact manner to prevent losing access.

From John Sherman 4/27/07: At present encouraging people to cross the landowner's property without permission reflects poorly on climbers in general. More importantly, it threatens negotiations to acquire privately owned parcels that include some of the best bouldering at Tamo as well as the tallest cliffs at Tamo, the bulk of the high end sportclimbing and a number of fine trad prospects as well. Climbers who wish to approach Tamo legally can hike in from the Kearny OHV trail system to the west - a high clearance 4x4 will shorten the hike.

Please contact the Prescott National Forest office for details. All climbing is closed on Thumb Butte to allow for Peregrine nesting during this time.

More info:
www.fs.fed.us/r3/prescott/news/2009/01-22-2009-area-closures>>>

Please contact the Prescott National Forest office for details. All climbing is closed on Thumb Butte to allow for Peregrine nesting during this time.

Please contact Prescott National Forest office for details.

This area has been deemed off limits for climbing since the park was reopened a few years ago.

It now has become a development.

Here for historical ref only.

aka "Troon Mountain". Section for historical ref only.

Pick up a Yearly or Scratch-able Pass! Seek further details!

City Facility, therefore special consideration. phoenix.gov/PARKS/hikemain.html

Be sensitive of the house up hill and around one of the boulders. as Prescotts homlessness rises I have seen shanties back in the boulders so watch out. i have also seen used needles on the ground, what ever that means

During part of the year you are not supposed to climb here, because the peregrine need a undisturbed flight path. There are other places to climb during this time so it probably should be respected.

A copper mining company is doing a lot of mining in the Oak Flat area. Many people have put forth efforts to save the area from complete destruction and thus far it has worked.

After the San Tan Park opened the access was cut off. Please Call the Maricopa County Parks and let them know we want climbing access to the park. Contact them:
San Tan Mountain Regional Park
6533 West Phillips Road
Queen Creek Arizona 85142
480-655-5554
santanpark@mail.maricopa.gov

ACCESS NOTE: Please note that the forest service has restricted climbing for any routes past the area of Red Wagon (just left of the Trinity Cracks) due to tourist safety. Local access groups are working to get this restriction lifted.

It is presently illigal to climb on the Navajo Indian Reservation. These climbs are listed here for historical purposes only.

Area is mixed private and BLM Grazing Allotment. Please tread lightly.

Navajo Reservation land just south and then north of railroad bridge. Everything else is Gov. land.

No climbing on Southeast Rim without permission from Navajo Nation.

Do not climb without permission from Navajo Nation.

Traffic from drug smuggling and illegal immigration is high in this area. Exercise caution. US Border Patrol recommends avoiding this area completely after dark.

Effective this date and until further notice, Special Closure Order 05-189, dated March 18, 2002, is hereby amended as follows:
All persons are permitted access into the “Squaretop Area, which includes all existing rock climbing sites and/or domes (i.e. Squaretop and Lower Squaretop), Dragoon Mountains in Township 17 South, Range 23 East, the East ½ of the Northeast ¼ of Section 27 and the Northeast ¼ of the Southeast ¼ of Section 27.

All persons are permitted access into or through Rockfellow Dome Park, Dragoon Mountains (Township 17, Range 23 East, West ½ Section 26) except as follows:

Unless exempt with a permit specifically authorizing the prohibited activity, no persons may be upon any part of Rockfellow Dome Complex and/or Cochise Dome (aka What’s My Line Dome) by rock climbing or any other means of access, annually from March 1st through June 30th; and/or

Unless exempt with a permit specifically authorizing the prohibited activity, no overnight camping is permitted within Rockfellow Dome Park (Township 17, Range 23 East, West ½ Section 26) annually from March 1st through June 30th.

The access for Mendoza Canyon is via the good graces of the owner of the King Anvil Ranch you pass through to get to the canyon.

Update from Jeff Mayhew: 3-20-10

Mendoza Canyon access will still be open through King's Anvil Ranch from September 1 through March 1, as usual. The ranch owner, John King, is considering allowing foot access again at the original parking area, (see Approach Map,) from Sept. 1 through Dec. 1. After that he may re-post the No Trespassing sign, but may still allow foot access through the alternate parking area at the north end of the canyon's mouth, (see map.) Legally set traps are throughout the area so the suggestion is to leave the dogs at home. Regardless of this information, please obey all posted signs in the area. Access is still hanging by a thread!

After talking to Game and Fish, State Land Dept., and BLM it is clear that Mr. King has every right to block access at any time... and he is ready to at the drop of a hat. Fortunately, there are only about 15 of us that even go out there, so we mainly have to worry about the random rabble-rousers, (now there's a good name for a climb!)

Thanks for all the support and feel free to contact me.
Jeff Mayhew (user JMayhew on this site)

Update from Jeff Mayhew 10-18-10

As of 10/2010 the access along the dirt road leading from the "original parking" at the small corral (see approach map) is still signed "No Trespassing." Please respect that!

The "alternate parking" shown on the map still allows foot access along an old, faint road. This eventually connects to the main dirt road before the pond, but Mr. King had said last spring that access was permitted at that point, as long as people respected the private property. Be sure to remember that fork--it can be tricky to see when you're hiking out tired... and possibly in the dark!

There is still an old, hand written note in the sign-in box stating access to Mendoza is closed. This was in there before Mr. King gave "us" permission to access via this alternate roadway.

Update from Charles Vernon (12.6.10):
We ran into John King's daughter herding cows yesterday, on the way into the canyon. She was very nice, and we talked to her for a little while. She believes that the missing traps that led to loss of access last year were a result of hikers (climbers? hunters?) whose dogs got caught in the traps, leading to the dog owners taking or destroying the traps to free their dogs.

Regardless of what exactly happened, she made it clear that dogs are not welcome. It sounds as though just heading out there with dogs, without more, could be enough to cause them to rethink access. So please, do not bring dogs to Mendoza!

This area is closed March 15 - June 30 for nesting pregerine falcons.

This area is closed from March 15 - June 30 for nesting peregrine falcons.

Effective this date and until further notice, Special Closure Order 05-189, dated March 18, 2002, is hereby amended as follows:
All persons are permitted access into the “Squaretop Area, which includes all existing rock climbing sites and/or domes (i.e. Squaretop and Lower Squaretop), Dragoon Mountains in Township 17 South, Range 23 East, the East ½ of the Northeast ¼ of Section 27 and the Northeast ¼ of the Southeast ¼ of Section 27.

All persons are permitted access into or through Rockfellow Dome Park, Dragoon Mountains (Township 17, Range 23 East, West ½ Section 26) except as follows:

Unless exempt with a permit specifically authorizing the prohibited activity, no persons may be upon any part of Rockfellow Dome Complex and/or Cochise Dome (aka What’s My Line Dome) by rock climbing or any other means of access, annually from March 1st through June 30th; and/or

Unless exempt with a permit specifically authorizing the prohibited activity, no overnight camping is permitted within Rockfellow Dome Park (Township 17, Range 23 East, West ½ Section 26) annually from March 1st through June 30th.

Douglas Ranger District Tel: 520.364.6816.

This area is closed between February 1 and August 31 for nesting peregrine falcons.

This area is closed between February 1 and August 31 for nesting peregrine falcons.

This area is closed from March 15 - June 30 for nesting peregrine falcons.

The gate closes promptly at 4pm. If you're lucky, you'll have until 4:01pm. Don't get locked-in!

There is no public access road provided by the BLM to the Coyote Mountains Wilderness Area. This wilderness is surrounded by state, reservation, and private land. Permission to drive on an access road through the King Anvil Ranch property is granted by the owner during the months of September through February (access closed March through August). This access road also crosses Arizona State Trust Land. The owner of the King Anvil Ranch and the Arizona Game Fish have provided a sign in station for you to register your visit. Please sign in and sign out at the station. Furthermore the Arizona land managers require that you obtain a recreation permit to drive across Arizona State Trust Land. The application for this permit ($15/year) can be found at:
www.land.state.az.us/programs/natural/rec_permit.pdf

The trail goes through the Girl/Boy Scout and church group areas. Please respect these group areas.

Effective this date and until further notice, Special Closure Order 05-189, dated March 18, 2002, is hereby amended as follows:
All persons are permitted access into the “Squaretop Area, which includes all existing rock climbing sites and/or domes (i.e. Squaretop and Lower Squaretop), Dragoon Mountains in Township 17 South, Range 23 East, the East ½ of the Northeast ¼ of Section 27 and the Northeast ¼ of the Southeast ¼ of Section 27.

All persons are permitted access into or through Rockfellow Dome Park, Dragoon Mountains (Township 17, Range 23 East, West ½ Section 26) except as follows:

Unless exempt with a permit specifically authorizing the prohibited activity, no persons may be upon any part of Rockfellow Dome Complex and/or Cochise Dome (aka What’s My Line Dome) by rock climbing or any other means of access, annually from March 1st through June 30th; and/or

Unless exempt with a permit specifically authorizing the prohibited activity, no overnight camping is permitted within Rockfellow Dome Park (Township 17, Range 23 East, West ½ Section 26) annually from March 1st through June 30th.

Douglas Ranger District Tel: 520.364.6816.

Special Closure Order #05-123 prohibits travel more then 400' off of established trails due to Bighorn Sheep lambing season.

Special Closure Order #05-123 prohibits travel more then 400' off of established trails due to Bighorn Sheep lambing season.

Special Closure Order #05-123 prohibits travel more then 400' off of established trails due to Bighorn Sheep lambing season.

Special Closure Order #05-123 prohibits travel more then 400' off of established trails due to Bighorn Sheep lambing season.

Special Closure Order #05-123 prohibits travel more then 400' off of established trails due to Bighorn Sheep lambing season.

Special Closure Order #05-123 prohibits travel more then 400' off of established trails due to Bighorn Sheep lambing season.

This area is closed March 15 - June 30 for nesting pregerine falcons.

This area is on private land at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch. Access is open to climbers though.

Emergency Closure for Condor Nesting

The area within the following boundary is closed to public access for the protection of wildlife:

* From the summit of the Goat Rock formation (UTM E660722, N4038501) west following an unnamed ridge to a point due south of the Western Front rock formation (UTM E660328, N4038999)
* From the Western Front rock formation north (UTM E660328, N4038999) and northeast, encompassing the Resurrection Wall formation to a junction with the Juniper Canyon Trail (UTM E660800, N4039401), 1/3 mi from the Juniper Canyon trailhead)
* Along the southern side of the Juniper Canyon Trail to a junction with a ridgeline extending due north from the Goat Rock formation (UTM E660956, N4039214)
* Extending south along the ridgeline to the summit of the Goat Rock formation.

The Resurrection Wall and Western Front formations, and the west face of Goat Rock are closed. The Juniper Canyon trail and the east face of Goat Rock remain open. All current raptor advisory areas remain in effect.

Signage has been posted at strategic locations.

Violation of this emergency closure (36 CFR 1.5(f)) or 16 U.S.C 1531-1543 is punishable by a fine of not more than $500 or imprisonment for not exceeding six months, or both.

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News as of Jan 2006 - This area is now CLOSED to climbing!

The quarry is now private land. This area may be in the guidebook, but the relative difficulty in finding the area (no climber trails, no obvious routes) should be an indication: THIS AREA IS OFF LIMITS.

The original trailhead was closed after someone was electrocuted themselves while playing on the powerlines. Access to the cliff is now gained by parking in a nearby park and hiking through a trailer park. As yet there have been no known incidents as climbers hike through the trailer park however, please be respectful of residents and low key at all times. Please observe any posted no-trespassing signs if they show up.

Like a lot of the Pinnacles area, the High Peaks is subject to raptor closures. These closures affect all of the high peaks. The closures typically begin mid January and continue through to the middle of July. Please take these closures seriously. Our access to the High Peaks depends on our ability to respect these closures. For more info on closures go to the Friends of Pinnacles website (www.pinnacles.org/climbing_info/index.html)

To my knowledge, Westmont College doesn't officially condone climbing on this boulder. Conversely, I'm not sure if they officially frown on it. In any case, tread quietly and be considerate.

No trespassing sign are posted at the private property used to gain the West Camino Cielo access trail. It is also illegal to trespass on the Matilija Dam.

In the past, the land to the east of The Cove was reported as being privately owned.

Permits available in Lone Pine or Bishop.

The rock climbing area known as Towers of Uncertainty is closed to public use due to wildlife activity. The closure is usually in effect from March through June

The far right side of this wall is closed due to the presence of Native American rock art.

This part of the park has been experiencing seasonal nesting closures. The usual duration for this restriction is from March 25 through June.

Climbing is not allowed on a portion of this boulder any longer due to it's proximity to the nearby Equinox Marker.

As of Spring 2012, JTNP has mandated a permanent closure to climbing at Shipwreck Boulder

Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.

This is a Wilderness Area and open for day use only - no camping is allowed.

The route Energy Crisis and the rock for 50' on either side of its are closed to climbing to protect Native American rock art in the vicinity.

Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.

This part of the park has been experiencing seasonal nesting closures. The usual duration for this restriction is from March 25 through June.

Climbs upstream from "Miss Pacman" and "Gameboy" on river right and upstream of "Xanadu" on river left are closed until April 30, 2011, or further notice as required to protect a sensitive, federally listed plant species. For more information, see: www.nps.gov/samo/upload/PublicNoticeCircleXRanch2010.PDF

Williamson Rock is under a temporary closure to all recreational uses, including climbing, pursuant to a ruling by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service that the area is critical habitat for the endangered yellow-legged mountain frog. Efforts by the non-profit organization Friends of Williamson Rock, in conjunction with the U.S. Forest Service, are underway to regain climbing access to Williamson. For information on the status of these efforts, and to learn how you can help, contact the Friends of Williamson Rock: williamsonrock.org

A new fence laced in razor wire has been erected on the far end of the dam where you used to hop over. Skirting around is a trivial matter, but I'm unsure how the message should be interpreted. There are no new signs indicating closures, and you can still hike over from Stumbling Blocks/Ghetto Wall. If anything the fence is going to have more of an effect on the hikers trying to do the loop than the climbers. On the plus side, I've never seen it so empty at this area.

Currently, the parking area on the south side of the sharp left turn at the small housing development is posted with several NO PARKING signs. Better to park in the large turn out on the left ~40 yards west of the turn. Alternately, there is a small turnout 0.25 mi. before the turn where Little Sycamore Canyon Road becomes Yerba Buena Rd.

Unfortunately, parking is not the only issue. The formation closest to the road is currently closed to climbing. The formation has no name, and the closure does NOT affect the whole Lookout, just the southernmost formation. The rangers have ordered signs, but it apparently takes the NPS sometime to produce them, so the area is closed, but not posted. Again, this doesn't affect the whole area, just the southernmost formation nearest Yerba Buena Road.

Contact James Herbaugh, NPS Park Ranger, at James_Herbaugh@nps.gov for additional information.

if you could park off pavement then your okay.

Route 39 is closed at times due to fire, snowfall, and road damage.

Route 39 is closed from time to time due to fire, snowfall, etc etc.

Do not drive into the Quarry. You will be ticketed $150 for trespassing. Climbing access is open, just park on the street.

Climbing is restricted at the beach until after 5 pm at the height of beach season.

Commonly known access for this area is on/through private property. Please carefully read alternative directions listed for accessing Main Wall Left.

The trail starts from a residential area; stay on the pavement until you reach the clearing. Please be quiet and respectful.

The river can sometimes be high and hard to cross.

• Thanks to ACSD for providing the following updates!

• ACSD Access and Nesting Advisories

• Poway Crag's Ramona Wall and Miller Time Wall have a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August 31st annually dur to nesting raptors

• Glen Cliff has a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August, or if/when it is determined that nesting is not occurring

• Mt Gower also has a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August, or if/when it is determined that nesting is not occurring

• In recent years, Gower has been home to seasonally nesting raptors. To avoid human disturbance of nesting activities, advisories may be in effect from around December through August. Check the ACSD and CNF websites for details.

Go to www.Alliedclimbers.org for more information on the seasonal nesting advisory for the west side of Corte Madera

Two houses pretty close to this boulder, approch from tower one and being discreet will hopefully keep from any problems.

Never had any trouble for being here, but poachers going down to the lake seem to be afraid of their presence being discovered.

Permits can be acquired at the ranger station on the way to the boulders from the upper Tramway station.

Follow the "legal" access map as closely as possible. Map here - www.summitpost.org/snow-creek-in-the-summer-and-absolutely-l>>>

This may be the first climbing area in the state to close to budget constraints, but it probably won't be the last.

Santa Clara County Department of Parks and Recreation Dept. has closed Summit Rock to climbing year-round to protect peregrine falcons. The AF is working to reduce this to a closure for the nesting season only, which is the standard management approach.

Please, no bolting without group consent. Your 'route' might be a highball problem.
No trash. No graffitti. No chipping or glueing.

Some are on Private Property, some are open to use. Because few climb here, if you keep a low profile its highly unlikely you'll threaten access. I've always been cordial to those I've run into, knocked on doors when ownership was apparent and never had issue with climbing at these crags.

This is a wilderness area. Please use "leave no trace" practices.

Since the last guidebook to include this area was published, much of the land has been designated as wilderness and crags that used to be virtual drive-ups now involve a long hike to approach. These include Heller Rocks and Easter Wall on Owens Ridge.

Closure exists within 1/4 mile of Chimney Rock to all but volunteer monitors, National Park Service and Forest Service personnel. The closure will begin in mid April (when the Forest Supervisor signs the order) and continue until August 15. The closure will be removed earlier if it is confirmed that nesting activity had concluded (nest failed, chicks fledged or birds never used the area).

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Though no signs specifically mark this as private property, it is clearly pasture for some rancher's herd. An easily scalable fence keeps cows off the highway. For a less conspicuous approach, circle west through the trailer park and hop the low fence and creek.

To keep peace and tranquility in Kings Canyon, climbers should respect park service regulations. Let us work for a more respectful and cooperative relationship between the climbing community and the park service as the climbing continues to be developed. Visitors are limited to camping 14 days within park service boundary. Electric drilling should not be utilized beyond the wilderness boundary line at 5,000 ft elevation. Keep impact of new routes to a minimum. Pick up trash and keep food protected from bears.

Access to Kings Canyon National Park will cost $20 seven day pass, $30 annual pass, or $80 annual National Parks Pass. There are 4 campgrounds within park boundaries that will cost $18/night. Rare is the day one needs reservations and spots along the river are plentiful. There are also limited amounts of free camping along the river within National Forest in the lower end of the valley. Cedar Grove has no gas station but can provide groceries, restaurant, and showers.

The lake covers most of these boulders during the early summer (anywhere from May-Aug). Best time to visit is fall/winter.

Climbing access is open but parts are on private property. Please be respectful of property owners.

Jailhouse has been and remains privately owned. The owner has graciously allowed an access easement and conservation easement to let climbers get to and climb at the cliff. Current access is now via the new double gate and gravel road. In the future, a new route may be necessary due to future subdivisions.

For the current gate code and rules, visit www.accessfund.org/jailhouse.

Some critical conditions of the easement we need to comply with include:

• No dogs on the property

• Close all gates (typically there are over 200 head of horses on the property), particularly the gate to O'Byrnes Ferry Road

• No loud music

• No fires

• No camping at the cliff, trailhead, or anywhere in the vicinity

• Access allowed only from sun-up to one hour after sundown

• No littering

In addition, seasonal raptor closures on a portion of cliff line may be posted on the property and online if there is active raptor nesting.

Our ability to climb here is contingent on our compliance with the conditions of the easement.

Peregrine Falcons nest seasonally at Lover's Leap. During the closure period, please avoid the areas displayed on the map posted below. A closure will be in place at the center of the wall starting April 1, 2012 to September 30, 2012. A detailed listing of closed routes and any changes in the information regarding the peregrine falcons will be posted on the Eldorado National Forest website www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado. If you require addition information contact Susan Yasuda, District Wildlife Biologist on the Placerville Ranger District at 530-647-5311.

Here's a map:

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Do not trespass across the private property which is west of the crag. Presently, the access policies are up in the air and failure to respect private property could inhibit future access. To avoid trespassing on private property, stay along the base of the crag.

No access issues that I know of to date, but due to it's proximity to the RR tracks and CalTrans, please keep a low profile to stave off any potential access issues.

Access allowed, but leave no trace.

Yearly raptor closures typically begin March 1 and remain in effect until August 1, or until further notice.

As of March 1, 2012: Closure includes all routes from "Autobahn" east to and including "South Face Route."

For more info, go to:

www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/climbingclosures.htm

Yearly raptor closures typically begin March 1 and remain in effect until August 1, or until further notice.

East of Glacier Point Apron. Closure includes all routes above 200 feet from the base of the cliff east of Glacier Point Apron including "A Mother's Lament" to the Illilouette Gorge.
Half Dome, South Face - Overlooking Little Yosemite Valley. Closure includes all routes from "Autobahn" east to and including "South Face Route."

For more info, go to:

www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/climbingclosures.htm

Yearly raptor closures typically begin March 1 and remain in effect until August 1, or until further notice.

Beginning March 1, 2012:
Lower Merced Canyon. Closure includes "Super Nova" and extends west to all climbing routes on all sides of the Rostrum. The "Jungle Gym" area remains open. Slack-lining is prohibited at the summit and the top of the adjacent cliff.

See the following website for more info:
www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/climbingclosures.htm

Yearly raptor closures typically begin March 1 and remain in effect until August 1, or until further notice.

As of March 1, 2012: Lower Merced River Gorge. Closure includes all routes with the following exception: routes west of and including "Later" and northeast of and including "Juliette's Flake" remain open.

See the following website for more info:
www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/climbingclosures.htm

There is a small stream that may be difficult to cross during the early spring months.

This is a fragile alpine bouldering area and following Leave No Trace principles is important. Never stash pads. Do not alter landings, chip or glue holds, or remove or alter vegetation. Walk on hard surfaces such as boulders or established trails. Store your gear on boulders instead of dirt or vegetation. Clean up spilled chalk and tick marks and brush holds. Keep your presence low key and unobtrusive. Pack out everything you brought and anything else that shouldn't have been left there. RMNP rangers are very aware of the impact that bouldering has on this environment.

The majority of these boulders are located within the Mt Evans Wilderness Area, which is regulated & patrolled by the US Forest Service. Climbers should be on their best behavior, practice Leave No Trace, and please abide by these requirements:

- Approach Areas A, B, & C via the Chicago Lakes trail (from Echo Lake).

- Wilderness Permits are required for all visitors to any federal Wilderness Area. Permits are free and self-issued. A kiosk is located at the point where the Chicago Lakes Trail departs from the reservoir, at the entrance to the Wilderness Area.

- Group size: travel in federal Wilderness Areas is limited to groups of 15 people or less. If you find yourself in an area, say around the Dali Boulder, where there are more than 15 people, please disperse. There are plenty of excellent boulders elsewhere.

- Minimize creation of social trails. None of the trails surrounding the bouldering area are officially maintained by the USFS. Ample access trails currently exist, please stay on the existing trails, and do not create any more trails.

- Do not destroy vegetation. This is a fragile alpine environment, with a short growing season. It can take vegetation decades to recover from damage. Place crash pads judiciously, and keep brushing to a minimum. Before adding new lines, considered the damage that may be caused by additional foot traffic, pad placement, etc.

- Chalk is un-sightly to non-climbers. Please avoid chalking up boulder problems that are visible from the Chicago Lakes Trail, and in general, keep chalk use to a minimum. Brush all tick marks off after every sesssion. Use containers that prevent chalk spills. If you do spill your chalk, clean it up.

- Stashing crash pads is expressly forbidden by the USFS. Any pads found by USFS personnel will be confiscated.

- Noise: This is a wilderness area (did I mention that?) that is enjoyed by many, mostly non-climbers. The last thing passing hikers want to hear are your self-indulgent f-bombs, I-Pod speakers, grunting, etc. In fact, most other CLIMBERS don't want to hear any of these things either. The easiest way for us to loose access is to elicit complaints from other user groups.

- Dogs must be leashed at all times. Consider others when deciding whether or not to bring your dog, specfically considering that dogs like to scare away wildlife, and most other users would prefer not to have the wildlife scared away. Obviously, clean up after your dog.

Remember that we are guests in this area. Be respectful of other users and the USFS Rangers that manage this area.

The following crags are typically closed February 1 to July 31:

First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws

Details:
www.bouldercolorado.gov/index.php?option=com_content&task=vi>>>.

The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:

Ridge Two
Ridge Three
Ridge Four
Achaen Prnouncement
Back Porch
Argonaut
Dreadnought
North Ridge
Bear Creek Spire

Details.

All East Face routes on the following formations are closed 1 April to 1 October (routes on the North, South & West Faces remain open):
The Hand
Mallory Flatironette
Shark's Fin
Finger Flatiron

The following routes on Der Zerkle are closed from 1 April to 1 September:
Sunnyside One
East Face Left
East Face Right

Details.

The following crags are typically closed 1 February to 31 July:

The Goose
Goose Eggs
East Ridge
Mars Block
Nebel Horn
Tower of the Moon
Jamcrack Spire
The Pyramid
Incognito Crag
Devil's Thumb
Shadow Fax
Isolation Rock
Sunset Wall
Devil's Wing (W. Face)
The Matron
Lost & Found
The Sibling
Toddler Rock

Details.

www.fs.usda.gov/arp
Contact: Boulder Ranger Station Visitor Information Services,
(303) 541-2500

Boulder, Colo. March 15 – This Mon., March 19, the U.S. Forest Service will reopen Bitty Buttress.

Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect beginning February 1, 2012. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). Check back periodically during times of closure for updates.

The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws

Details
www.bouldercolorado.gov/index.php?option=com_content&>;&g>>>

Sunnyside One
East Face Left
East Face Right

Mickey Mouse wall is generally closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31. Details

The Eagle Rock area remains closed to climbing and other activities and is expected to remain closed through July 31, 2012.

Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1, 2012. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). Check back periodically during times of closure for updates.

The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws

Details
www.bouldercolorado.gov/index.php?option=com_content&>>>>>

The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws

Details
www.bouldercolorado.gov/index.php?option=com_content&>>>>>

Closed from Feb 1 to July 31 to protect nesting raptors.

Per Rik Henrikson, Boulder County Sherriff: please note, Parks and Open Space WAS determined that this crag WAS subject to indefinite closure; however, a site visit with a state biologist has confirmed this site is very close to a closed area, but this crag is OPEN TO CLIMBING.

The raptor closure area has been expanded to now include the Backporch from February 1 to July 31.

As of Feb. 1, 2012:

A seasonal wildlife closure was in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons.

The closure started Feb. 1 through July 31, or until further notice and includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.

Per BCC: As of May 14, 2012 all raptor closures have been lifted by the State Park in Eldorado Canyon.

For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/press.asp?PressId=7529.

Per Rik Henrikson, Boulder County Sherriff: please note, Parks and Open Space WAS determined that this crag WAS subject to indefinite closure; however, a site visit with a state biologist has confirmed this site is very close to a closed area, but this crag is OPEN TO CLIMBING.

www.fs.usda.gov/arp
Contact: Boulder Ranger Station Visitor Information Services,
(303) 541-2500

Boulder, Colo. March 15 – This Mon., March 19, the U.S. Forest Service will reopen Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress.

Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect beginning February 1, 2012. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). Check back periodically during times of closure for updates.

Boulder Falls is open to tourists but the slope and approach to Lower Dream Canyon remains closed until further notice.

Effective Monday March 19, 2012, the area is open again to climbing. For the latest info check www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation

Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect beginning February 1, 2012. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). Check back periodically during times of closure for updates.

The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws

Details
www.bouldercolorado.gov/index.php?option=com_content&>>>>>

Most boulders within the Park itself have no access issues or concerns. Most of the areas with access concerns have long 75 to 120 minute approaches that will dissuade all but the very motivated from even bothering. However, when visiting the netherland areas like Cloud Nine, Mickey Meadows, the front side of Eldorado Mountain, the boulders found on the far west and northwest side of ECSP and even the East Draw, issues like crossing private property, climbing on private property, railroad track crossings, railroad tunnels and OSMP-managed "Natural Areas" all come into play. Become informed about where you are going by reviewing maps and asking around about proper approaches (assuming one exists), land ownership and access or lack thereof.

Stay low key in the netherland areas and if you run into other user groups or landowners, be respectful even if you are being asked to leave. Keep evidence of your visit to a minimum in these areas. People have been bouldering in these outlying areas for 10 to 20 years and it would be a real shame if a little info found here made access issues even worse.

You can obtain a free off-trail permit here: www.bouldercolorado.gov/index.php?option=com_content&task=vi>>>

The formation is in Area 9 of the Western Mountain Parks.

Bob's Crack, Air Soles, and everything climber's right of there is closed for bird nesting through July 15th.

Per Steven Reneau: As of 7/24/11, these routes are posted as closed (BLM sign at the base of the crag).

The access situation here is a bit murky. According to "Shelf Road Rock", the crag is likely located on state land that is leased to a local rancher. Climbers should treat this area as though it were private property. Keep a low profile, leave your dogs at home, and keep the noise down.

This cliff sits on private property. The crag was "closed" by the land owner at one time, but the land has since changed hands. The current land owner's view on climbing access is unknown.

Over the years, this route has had intermittent access issues. At times, it has been legal. At times, it has been completely illegal.

This area is posted as NO LONGER “closed for hunting” Dec. 1 – Jan. 31 as confirmed by a Jefferson County Open Space ranger in March 2011.

As of Dec. 2011, the parking area is closed here. The signage indicates that the Mayhem Gulch Trail and Centennial Dome are closed due to hunting. According to a JeffCo ranger, the access to the ice climb is open. You will have to figure out legal parking which may be further away.

Please contact the landowner for permission to climb here. Thanks!

From what I know of Parachute ice most climbs are major approaches and access from CO 215 is not possible without first finding what company owns the land and getting permission from somebody in charge. Our investigation found some friendly workers who told us we needed to go to the main office for permission, to very unfriendly workers who couldn't get rid of us fast enough. With these kinds of initial obstacles, climbing in parachute can be quite the adventure. Climb at your own risk. The climb I am going to feature in this area had all of these initial obstacles but the approach was from the I-70 side of the Roan Cliffs. Still all oil and gas land but no signs and very little activity compared to the CO215 side. Our outing was awsome because all obstacles for the day, including a brutal 3.5 hour approach and a 6+ lead were overcome, I do not gaurantee simalar results for future adventurer's. Be prepared!

The East Face of North Gateway is closed to climbers every year from around Feb 1 until early August, depending on when the birds fledge. It's not posted out there, but since the closure has been in effect for 20+ years it is incumbent on climbers to know about closures by stopping in at the visitor center and asking. The falcons always nest in a big pothole above the traverse ledge and below the Kissing Camels arch.

Located on USAF Academy. The Academy is open to the public from 8AM to 6PM.

Limited access to base.

Access to Cathedral Park Ranch crosses private property in some areas. Consult a map and park your vehicle before Clyde and the tunnel to avoid crossing private land.

The southern entrance to the boulders is through private property. Please enter from the north.

In addition to not parking in the Skyland residential area, there are a couple other considerations.

The best way to access the boulders is via bicycle (or hiking) the Tony's Trail, which leads right up to the Hone Stone. This is easily found by taking Elk Ave. east, until it turns into a dirt road. Dogs are not allowed on this trail however, and climbers have received fines for having dogs in this area, as it is used for ranching.

If you do have dogs and want to bring them up, the best way to do that is to access the Skyland Boulders from the town of Mt. Crested Butte, via the Upper Loop. A parking area is available on Hunter Hill Rd.

As of March 7, 2012:

Shakespearean Theater – restricted March, April, May.

Mind Meld – restricted March, April, May.

Porky’s Wall – restricted March, April, May, June.

Vulture Wall – restricted March, April, May.

Morning Sun Wall – restricted March, April, May, June, July.

Closed March 1 - July 1 for nesting falcons.

This crag is on private land and the owner has decided not to allow climbing.

Private property issues apply to this cliff.

The city of Redcliff is upgrading their sewer system and has signs prohibiting the usual parking and hiking for Gilman. Also parking above, Frontage Road shoulder, is off limits.

The entire Trestle and CMC areas are now off-limits. The house finally sold and the new owners are more than happy to call the cops on climbers and fishermen (even for trespassing on land that is not theirs!).

The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice:

Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation.

Alligator Rock is also closed.

www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm

This crag is closed Mar 3 - July 31 for raptor nesting.

For more info, see the NPS website:

www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm

This climbing area is privately owned. The owners allow climbing but ask that no bolts or fixed anchors are installed without express permission.

This area is on private property. No climbing allowed.

The Kingpin Boulder is on private property and is closed to climbing. See Poudre Canyon (420's) Access Issue: Kingpin Boulder for details.

The crag itself is on public land, but it is good to obtain permission to cross the private land adjacent to the road.

Voluntary seasonal falcon closure notice for the Fortress of Solitude from February 15- July 31. The closures are route specific. The central super routes (Daily Planet to Flex Luthor) are open. Once nesting has been determined routes may open. No new routing (noisy power drills) can happen during this time period even in the open areas of the main cave. Any routes east of the main cave remain open. Please no caching of gear on Forest Service land. The Forest Service has been very cooperative in establishing this plan; please be responsible.The specific routes to be closed are listed below with numbers from the Rifle/ Western Slope Wolverine Publishing guide book.
For the left aerie: The Sandman (not in guide) 5. Lois Lame 8. Blind Date. For the right aerie: Ironman (not in guide) Snake Woman (not in guide) 17. The Kalous Logan 18.The Fuck Up
-Bryan Gall

The closures as of now are route specific. In the main cave of the Fortress the whole west wall, gothdrome, and east wall/ bat cave areas are closed with nesting sites above those areas. Only the central super routes (Daily Planet to Flex Luthor) are open. Once nesting has been determined routes may open. No new routing (noisy power drills) can happen during this time period even in the open area. Avoid loud noises if at all possible. Routes east of the main cave are open. Please no caching of gear on Forest Service land. The forest service has been great in working out a very climber friendly management plan please be responsible!

The closures as of now are route specific. In the main cave of the Fortress the whole west wall, gothdrome, and east wall/ bat cave areas are closed with nesting sites above those areas. Only the central super routes (Daily Planet to Flex Luthor) are open. Once nesting has been determined routes may open. No new routing (noisy power drills) can happen during this time period even in the open area. Avoid loud noises if at all possible. Routes east of the main cave are open. Please no caching of gear on Forest Service land. The forest service has been great in working out a very climber friendly management plan please be responsible!

The closures as of now are route specific. In the main cave of the Fortress the whole west wall, gothdrome, and east wall/ bat cave areas are closed with nesting sites above those areas. Only the central super routes (Daily Planet to Flex Luthor) are open. Once nesting has been determined routes may open. No new routing (noisy power drills) can happen during this time period even in the open area. Avoid loud noises if at all possible. Routes east of the main cave are open. Please no caching of gear on Forest Service land. The forest service has been great in working out a very climber friendly management plan please be responsible!

Access to this area crosses the train tracks which is private property and therefore trespassing.

Access to this climbing area passes through private property near the canal. Climbing access remains open but keep a low profile.

Golden Gate Canyon is a State Park and a $6 (2010) fee is required for entrance. Self serve kiosks exist throughout the park. Annual passes can be purchased for $60.

After months of negotiation, Clear Creek County successfully acquired the 76-acre Oxbow Parcel that contains the Cat Slab cliff. While the cliff line is protected, the area is now officially open to the public. The County is working on developing and implementing a site plan to provide safe, off-road parking, which may include shifting the guard rail and gate to provide more parking as a short-term solution.

Cat Slab was a popular crag before it was closed to the public in 2006 due to liability concerns. The County purchased the land using $725,000 in lottery funds, awarded by Great Outdoors Colorado (GOCO). The County was supported by numerous recreational groups, including the Access Fund, Colorado Mountain Club, Colorado Whitewater, Trout Unlimited, International Mountain Bicycling Association, and Rafting Outfitters on Clear Creek.

Golden Gate Canyon is a State Park and a $5 (2007) fee is required for entrance. Self serve kiosks exist throughout the park.

After at least a couple decades of access to public lands through this area, suddenly there is a chain and a couple signs saying No Trespassing at the start of the 4wd road. Perhaps the only issue is to discourage motorized vehicles and hiking through won't bother anyone? Be advised.

Keep a low profile

The BLM has asked that we no longer climb on this boulder.

Permission from property owner is required for climbing access.

Climbing access is open but keep a low profile.

Note, this area appears to be on private property. Apparently the landowners are not sympathetic to climbers.

Subdivision exists below the buttress

Right at the seep which is directly across the from the parking lot there is a very fragile ecosystem with many unique and endangered species. Walk further down canyon to where the vegetation is less to cross the stream

Serpent Point and the adjacent walls within one-half mile are closed to public use from March 15 through July 15. This includes the landscape portions above the walls extending 50 feet from the rim edge. This pertains to the following areas:

North Rim Areas - The Alpine Aretes, Porcelain Arete, and Painted Wall. These climbing routes are closed: Alpine Route, Porcelain Arete, On the Border, Broken Porcelain, Northern Arete, Beyer Route, The Dragon, The Serpent, Forrest-Walker, Stratosfear, Journey Through Mirkwood, Southern Arete.

South Rim Areas - Dragon Point and Dragon Point Buttress. These climbing routes are closed: Pilgrimage, Crumb Blunder, Magic Dragon, Black Adder, Black Snake, Black Heathen, Black Dragon Rider, Silent Rage.

RESPECT PRIVATE PROPERTY! Access depends on it.

Please note that there is currently no access to this area, and if you drive down the road, you will be asked by the land owners to turn around and leave.

ACEC--Area of Critical Environmental Concern. This preserve is for the protection of Black Sagebrush Vegetation. This vegetation grouping includes all the species in the the Black Sagebrush habitat.

The dirt road closes sometime in the fall and reopens sometime in the spring/summer.

This summit is bordered by private property. Do not cross private property on the ascent or descent. The best access is from Alderfer/Three Sisters' Mountain Muhly Trail. Return by the same route.

DMP is currently working on a master plan that does not seem to adequately address rock climbing in DMP areas. "Rock climbing" may not be allowed on Elephant Butte.

Colby's Corner is on Open Space land owned by the Loghill Village Homeowner's Association. We've worked with their park board informally for access. Technically, you must be a property owner or guest to use the land. So befriend a Loghill Villager. I know one Villager has the first ascent of the Lotus Flower. Don't screw up the access!

FYI: Parts of Devil's Head climbing area are closed March 1- July 31 every year for Peregrine falcon protection. The official closure order and associated map can be found here: www.fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/stelprdb5280647.pdf.

For questions or more information, please contact the South Platte Ranger District office at 303.275.5610.

This climbing area is on private property.

This area is located on private property and is closed to climbing. Please be mindful if you try this place out, by seeking any permission necessary. This area is listed here due to its history with early climbing in the area, by many groups such as the Colorado Mountain Club.

Sunshine Wall, Poe Buttress, & Hall of Mirrors, Cynical Pinnacle and Block Tower remain CLOSED through July 31st due to active raptor nesting.

The Cathedral Spires are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st.

From Mike Morin (JeffCo OS ranger): right now the entire area is closed, including the Sunshine Wall, Hall of Mirrors, and Poe Buttress, pending a determination of where the birds nest this year.

From Mike Morin (JeffCo OS ranger): right now the entire area is closed, including the Sunshine Wall, Hall of Mirrors, and Poe Buttress, pending a determination of where the birds nest this year.

From Mike Morin (JeffCo OS ranger): right now the entire area is closed, including the Sunshine Wall, Hall of Mirrors, and Poe Buttress, pending a determination of where the birds nest this year.

They were so nice I thought they might offer us their horses! Back in the day, if you showed up at the gate, someone would come out to meet you. It's worth it for this cool crag.

It is quite possible that this area is on private land and is closed to climbing.

Jazz Dome is located on Denver Water property. Reportedly Denver water has no objections to climbing on the rock; however, there is a small tract of private property near the south edge of the dome. Please be considerate and keep the noise levels down and the trash out.

Park on S side of road just outside of campground in parking area. $5 access fee to Elevenmile Canyon.

Access may be open to discussion with the new owner.

All Dome routes are closed through July 31st

Routt County Road 82, Forest Service Road 116 follows Slater Creek. The best problems can be found near the intersection of Slater and Adams Creeks. This is not world class bouldering...if you are passing through the area, it is a fun roadside stop. Noting too much over V0 easy. Most of the limestone is fairly solid. The crag sticks out like a sore thumb as you reach the area, it is north of the road & creek and south of Shield Mountain.

The Idarado Mine owns large portions of land, including the access road, that they have been kind enough to maintain partially and allow the public to use. Obey the rules and keep a low profile to ensure continued access.

Keep a low profile and stay on the trail from the parking lot at the Ames Power Plant.

Access is closed to climbing April 1 to August 1.

Climbing here is not technically legal, however , it is tolerated. Please keep a low profile.

This is on private land owned by the Mashantucket Pequot Tribal Nation. There has been climbing there for decades without access issues. Please be respectful of that and don't do anything to jeopardize that.

Park at the Rosa Hartman Parking lot on Brown House Rd. (Stamford Side) to access the crag.

You will likely be ticketed by the police if you attempt to visit this spot. There is NO legal parking.

Redding Land Trust owns Great Ledge has a parking lot and trail to the Ledge located on Dayton Rd. Please do not park and bushwack from Newtown Turnpike (Rt. 53) as there is no established trail to this cliff and traveling on Centennial Watershed State Forest property requires you to stay on established trails and carry the following permit: www.ct.gov/dep/lib/dep/stateparks/maps/saugatuckreservoirtra>>>. RLT does not specifically have a policy on rock climbing at the ledge but should any issues arise they might very well close the property to climbing. If you intend on climbing at Great Ledge please consider a paying the $10 membership fee which can also be considered a tax donation.

This area is Public Access by Permit Only and the permit is available for download: www.ct.gov/dep/lib/dep/stateparks/maps/saugatuckreservoirtra>>>. Please note climbing is not allowed on the Centennial Watershed State Forest, owned by the Aquarion Water Company or the Devils Den Preserve, owned by the Nature Conservancy. This cliff appears to be located in the C.W. State Forest. Climbing has been tolerated at this cliff but you could be asked to leave. Parking lots along Newton Turnpike (Rt. 53) close at sundown .

Devil's Den is a Nature Preserve and should be treated as such. This probably means no bolting, and I would assume that using chalk should be kept to a minimum. The Nature Conservancy manages the land (I think) and this is apparently CT's most visited preserve. More info can be found @ www.nature.org/wherewework/northamerica/states/connecticut/p>>>

Boulders only exist when lake is 15+ feet low. But well worth the wait.

The trailhead starts at a sign that says "No trespassing," but the trail is fairly busy and the owners have no problem with hikers/climbers going through.

This is a designated Wilderness Study Area. Current routes may stay, but no new bolts may be added.

The west side of Window Rock has seasonal bird closure in the spring until June 15th- check for closure signs posted in the parking lot.

This crag is on private property but so far the landowners have had no complaints. Keep a low profile.

This crag is located on private property right next to the road. The owners have been kind enough to allow climbers to use their land for recreation. Please respect this so that the area may continue to be accesable.

$3 day parking/ $30 season parking pass. Other fees for more than day parking.

The entire area is under a general human-use ban during the winter months.

Due to the violent wind storms of May 2009, the Shelter 1 Bluff is closed until the debris cleanup is completed.

Only Ice climbing when permitted... Check with the rangers station to see if ice climbing is open. 815-667-4726.. NO MIXED CLIMBING!!! Damage to the sandstone will close ice climbing to this area.

This climbing area is at the base of the Krobo people's sacred mountain. It could be very disrespectful to be climbing on the mountain or at its base. You must cross farms and rangeland to access the SACRED mountain.

I strongly strongly recommend asking to see the chief of that area (ask for him when you get out at Akuse junction (see directions)).

Let him know your purposes, how long, and where you are staying. Give him a gift (a traditional practice), usually monetary (like 5-10 Ghana Cedis, about $3-$7, just for speaking to him and asking him permission) and if they ask, give them anything for the privilege of being on their land (you can negotiate). The people are very kind, so there should be no issue for the bouldering at the base of the mountain. It may or may not (depending on their mood and your attitude (be pleasant)) on whether climbing on the mountain itself will be an issue…after all it is a sacred mountain.

Be respectful. If they say no, please do not go. Try making some local friends and ask again later.

Must walk through farmers' plots, but they are kind and accommodating. Like many of the tall rocks in the area, the hill is considered spiritual, so inquire before bolting.

You can read about the warning here. There is extensive rebolting being done to replace suspect bolts with titanium glue-ins.

The vilagers love us and have no problem with use climbing there they just ask us not to eat their Shiquashas.

Access is constantly changing with the mood of the locals, be prepared to pay a fee to climb, but never pay more the RMB 30 since if you pay once then everyone else will have to pay it too. Do this too look out for your fellow and future climbers. I advise checking with Beijing climbers as to the access and fee situation before making a trip.

The Pakistani definition of a mountain according to the Ministry of Tourism in Islamabad is a peak higher than 6500 meters, 21,450 feet. Therefore you dont need permits for peaks lower than that mark. Anything higher, or if you are hiking within 20 km of an international border you will need permits. For a permit, you need to either: 1. Licensed mountain guide OR 2. Pakistan Army Liason Officer (LO) to guide you along the way. The guide/LO has to be equipped with gear that will allow him to hike with you till the base camp of your peak.

You need a permit from the Ministry of Tourism in Islamabad. You also need either:

1. Licensed mountain guide OR
2. Pakistan Army Liason Officer (LO)

to guide you along the way. The guide/LO has to be equipped with gear that will allow him to hike with you till the base camp of your peak.

You need a licensed mountain guide from the Pakistani govt or an Army Liason officer to get in here

You will need a licensed Mountain Guide through the ministry of Tourism or get an Army Liason officer to attempt any of the high peaks in this area

Ministry of Tourism Mountain Guide or Amy LO needed along with a permit

You will need to contact a tour operator in Pakistan or in the US who has licensed guides through the ministry of tourism in Pakistan. They will arrange for a permit.

A permit and ministry of tourism licensed mountain guide or liason officer will be needed

2JD Park Entrance Fee

There’s been some ongoing battles at the heavily traveled Wine Bottle Cliff. As one of the more popular and public areas the locals have tried in the past to capitalize off the traffic by charging for access to crags they don’t own. Unfortunately it’s flared up again and it seems like they have the police on their side now. More information can be found here: yangshuoaccess.org/

There’s been some ongoing battles at the heavily traveled Wine Bottle Cliff. As one of the more popular and public areas the locals have tried in the past to capitalize off the traffic by charging for access to crags they don’t own. Unfortunately it’s flared up again and it seems like they have the police on their side now. More information can be found here: yangshuoaccess.org/

A guiding group kind of just took over this area awhile ago, setting up banners, top ropes, tables and whatnot. It ruffled some feathers with some of the locals, because they had nothing to do with the FAs. That said, it's mostly beginner climbs so nobody really made a stink out of it. I strolled over and met with the guide company and they were some really nice guys who are just trying to make a living climbing.

There’s been some recurring closures at White Mountain. The locals recently put up a fence and posted signs designating the area closed. Check the YangShuo Access Org before heading over: yangshuoaccess.org/

Wat Pa Suwannahong is at the base of this tower. It is a Buddhist Temple. Climbing is always allowed, but you must sign in before you climb, and you MUST dress appropriately. Guys wear a shirt, women wear something to cover your shoulders and thighs, and take your shoes off when appropriate. Ladies take a "sarong" to cover up your shoulders.

Donations encouraged. A little for you is a lot to the monks.

This is probably private property, and the tombs are quite important to the families of their ancestors who rest there. A famous Korean crag on this site was closed because of concern over this type of thing. (Also, cached gear)

The island hosts a popular Swedish survival television series every March - May and the island is pretty much hands-off during filming.

The monsoon season shuts down all the resorts and bouldering from December - February.

June - November is the best time to come to Pulau Besar.

The alpine climbs are inside the natural reservation areas declared by Yushan National Park. People who enter Yushan National Park reservation areas need to apply for Yushan National Park entrance permission. The permission is granted only for limited number of persons daily. Sadly, in some climbing seasons (especially some Febraries in recent years, the best times for alpine climbing), the park official would reject any application for entrance permission, even if you specifically apply for alpine climbing in this area.

People who enter Shue-Pa (short for Snow Mt and Mt Dabajian) National Park reservation areas need to apply for Shue-Pa National Park entrance permission. The permission is granted only for limited number of persons daily.
Sadly, since 2010, to summit Mt Dabajian is forbidden by national park offcial. However, climbers tended to ignore the regulations and climb in low profile.

The area is in a camping site. You have to pay usage fee 500yen(on season), 100yen(off season)
www.okutamas.co.jp/kawai/access.htm

You need a visa to gain entry to Saudi, but if you're interested in climbing here, you probably already have one.

Dhahran is a closed compound owned by the oil company Saudi Aramco

Since the crag is across both the Green Line and Security Barrier, access to the area could be closed by the IDF at any time due to security threats or a future peace agreement. Access to nature preserves in Israel is illegal after closing time.

The Cathedral wall is found past the Rook Area. Ask Aling Norma of any locals that can provide info about getting there.

This crag is located on Australian Navy property. Access can be and is rescinded from time to time. Please obey all regulations. The facility is often closed to the public M-F.

You can order the permit here : www.environnement.public.lu/guichet_virtuel/escalade/index.html . If you come from far away, you only get 1 day permits.( You might try to come without as there are almost no controls. This is not encouraged!)

The land owners do not permit climbing and actively patrol and remove climbers on the Paret de sa Porta crags, directly below the castle itself. In the more remote sectors, problems are less likely to occur. The best advice is to keep a low profile, use only the described approaches and leave if asked.

Check the signs in the parking pullout for closure dates. This area may be closed from 1 December to 30 June for Falcon breeding.

Please send me more detailed information if you have it and I'll update this.

Climbing is forbidden from Jan 1 to July 31. Making it a good autumn destination.

The entire area is off limits, by Federal regulation for the protection of wildlife. in winter 2010/2011, the closure was effective from early winter through mid June. Fines are very very stiff for infraction of federal wildlife regulations.

Some beaches are "private" but 5 Lira ($3) gets you in for the day.

This secluded set of caves and crags once housed ancient rock climbers that might have something to teach us if we look close enough. Don't erase any signs they may have left for us.

There seems to be construction being done on the top of the cliff, and so some of the areas below have been taped off due to falling rocks. We experienced falling rocks and men yelling at us to leave when getting to the anchors of Chimenea.

The Falkenwand as it is called is only open March through July

It is free to climb here, but the park is privately owned, that said, park, walk, and climb lightly. The main building in the park serves as a Kletterschule (climbing school) as well and often takes kids out to the crags, so if they do, be helpful and curteous, and give them the routes they need.

Be respectful as it is on private property. Particularly leave the olive trees alone.

Unfortunately there is a preservationist standpoint on some rocks in the national forest. Rocks with legal access are marked by small signs. Please respect the local laws to keep what is there open. An X with a circle around it, means climbing forbidden; an > with a circle around it, means climbing allowed.

X for climbing forbidden, > for climbing allowed

Black X inside circle = climbing forbidden; Black >; inside a circle means climbing ok.

Climbing is allowed from sun-up till the beginning of sunset. Chalk is prohibited. No new routes may be established.

The cliffs at Rocher de Freÿr are private property and managed by the Belgian Alpine Club.

To recreate here, one must be a member of that club, or, another like club (American Alpine Club, etc). Bring your membership card.

Camping at/near the trailhead is prohibited. Drinking water for Richardière and Chichilianne come from this area. Fines are "regular and particularly dissuasive."

Abuse of the no-camping rule could result in not being able to access the parking lot.

Please, no camping near or at the trailhead.

Please, no bandit camping at this area.

Park rangers put a fence around the area to protect newly planted trees. It may or may not be legal to enter...

You will need to contact cliffbase@cliffbase.com prior to your arrival.

The owner can help you with transport to/from Ferry as well as local lodging.

You will need to contact cliffbase@cliffbase.com prior to your arrival.

The owner can help you with transport to/from Ferry as well as local lodging.

Please stay on the established trail as it crosses private property. Keep a low profile and please be respectful of this access through private property.

Access to some crags is restricted in spring due to birds nesting - check BMC website for up-to-date details.

Some of the climbs finish beside or even inside local residents' gardens, so take care to follow the recommended ways off - consult the Climbers' Club guide for details.

Climbing tolerated (usually) but keep a low profile

The East Buttress is usually closed for climbing in spring due to nesting peregrines.

Park on lay bay in road then walk towards brickworks. Follow first path and go directly to crag

Generally closed from 15 Jan to 31 July, but check online or ask in climbing shops if it's close to either of these dates to see if climbing has now become allowed.

Access to crags above Marine Drive is restricted at times when tourists are most active, e.g. summer weekens and public holidays

Climbing is tolerated by the owners, First Hydro, but not officially sanctioned. "Don't be a jerk" is always good advice.

Circuit When can climb

Himálaj 1.7. - 30.11.
Hůrka 1.7. - 30.11.
Janovická Vlčí rokle no climbing
Jezerka 1.7. - 30.11.
Království 1.7. - 30.11.
Město 1.5. - 30.11.
Milenecká hora 1.5. - 30.11.
Ostrov 1.5. - 30.11.
Panoptikum 1.7. - 30.11.
Podhradí 1.7. - 30.11.
Rokle nad Černým jezírkem no climbing
Rokle nad Spáleným mlýnem 1.7. - 30.11.
Řeřichové stráně no climbing
Vstupní obvod 1.5. - 30.11.
Za pískovnou 1.7. - 30.11.
Ztracená rokle no climbing

NO climbing after rain

No climbing after rain, No Chalk, No metal gear

From the end of Heches (indicated by a sign with a red slash through Hecehs)take your next right then next left before the bridge. Follow dirt road until you reach the gate (looks like a toll gate).

For printable topo see link:

lataboge.perso.neuf.fr/Sites/Suber/Suberpdf.pdf

For printable topo see link:

lataboge.perso.neuf.fr/Sites/Suber/Suberpdf.pdf
maps.google.com/maps/ms?msid=210544611686653146042.0004b0e88>>>

Note that the area to the left (north/west) of the Settore Ovest is off limits to climbing for protection of several species of raptors.

Central and right sectors closed for raptor protection from January through July.

The trust allows climbers to camp and climb at Whanganui Bay for $10/day. Please be respectful while you are here, as many people call this beautiful place home. When you get here (unless it's late), stop in and say hello to Mere in the trailer along the beach with the "Climbers Pay Here". The money goes to maintaining the infrastructure of the community.

Camp in designated areas and don't drive past the marae (meeting house). Swim only north of the river mouth, and don't swim nude. Keep voices down; they echo through the Bay. Try to refrain from swearing. Pack out your rubbish, put out your fires, and absolutely leave your dogs at home.

The dirt road in is steep and often deeply rutted. Heavy rain can make it impassible for small vehicles. Check the state of the road before driving in.

This area is currently closed to climbing thanks to the thoughtless actions of a few discourteous people. Check at Bryce's Outdoor Centre for more information and current status.

The owner asks that you visit Bryce to check for any closure issues before climbing on the property. The area will be closed during lambing, which typically runs through July and August.

This climbing area is on a working farm. The owner asks that you sign the book at the gate before entering. Please leave all gates as you find them, don't disturb the livestock, and pack all your garbage out. The climbing here will be closed during lambing, which usually runs from July through August.

Jardines Farm; they don't mind boulderers to do their thing, give him some heads up (this may depend on lambing season, too). AND remember to close the gate behind your car at entry and exit.

Drive down to the Flock Hill lodge and at the restaurant ask about the forms for Flock Hill climbing. They make you read through a waiver-type form and then you fill out information on your party size and dates so they can keep the numbers down in the area.

This is a sensitive environmental area, leave your dog at home, clean up after yourself and respect the pristine wilderness you are entering. Follow all park rules and regulations.

Some logging roads have gates that are locked when active logging is occurring. Check in advance with a phone call to Lakeside Pacific, the tenure-holding forest company: 604 793 9340. Keys can generally be picked up from their Chilliwack office during normal business hours, or at the logging camp by prearrangement.

Falcon nesting closures are usually in effect from March 15 to July 31. See the BC parks website for more details: www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/parkpgs/stawamus/

From the BC Parks site:

Closed Climbs: Millennium Falcon, Sports Illustrated, Cloud Burst, Sea of Tranquility, Getting Down on the Brown, Supernaut, Clean Corner, Negro Lesbian, Crap Crags, Slow Dyke, Illusion, Planet Caravan, Warriors Wasteland, Freeway (above 5th pitch), The Big Slick, Brothers in Arms, Western Dihedral (4th pitch and above).

Open Climbs: Arrow Root, Cleaning the Brain, Deadend Dihedral, Rutabaga, Sticky Fingers, Slow Duck, Time Passages, Freeway (to the top of 5th pitch) and Western Dihedral (to the top of the 3rd pitch).

There is an excellent parking lot available (thanks to the BC Climbers Access Society, I believe), but people continue to park in the residential areas anyway.

Much of the Lower Malamute falls into CN Rail's right-of-way. More accurately, the starts of many of the climbs fall into this region. See this link for more details: www.access-society.ca/regions/squamish/areas/lower-malamute

Also, see Kevin McLane's 2006 edition of his Squamish Guidbook to see a image of what is and isn't accessible.

See the following link for more details. tabvar.org/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=71&Item>>>

The shortest access around the west side of the dump has heavy equipment operating during the week and should be avoided. Instead, use the access around the East side of the dump; it's longer but safer.

Please avoid touching or disturbing the large boulder next to the wall. It is chained off and has native petroglyphs on it.

Parking for 2008 has again been secured at Braeside Farms thanks to Mr. Hugh Dunlop! See:
www.skaha.org/index.php?option=com_newsfeeds&task=view&feedi>>>

Access for 2008 and beyond has been the focus of a great deal of activity by a lot of people who deserve our thanks. The land purchase is pretty much done, but access and parking at the new site isn't going to be ready for 2008 so the use of Braeside for 2008 is big relief.

Parking in the town of Lion's Bay is a constantly changing situation. Watch the signs carefully and be willing to park down the road from the trailhead and walk.

The East Lion is off-limits due to its location in the GVRD watershed.

Peregrine falcons nest on the Falcon Crest Wall from April 1 to July 31. Please do not disturb them during nesting season!

This crag is on a fire road on which local homeowners pay the city a lease or use fee of some sort. The homeowners are of the opinion that this grants them exclusive use of the road. While that may or may or not be true, they act on that belief and have cars towed and confront users.

The crag itself is on public land, so there's no problem with the climbing itself. Work is underway to clarify the road situation. In the mean time, best ways to approach the crag are (more details in the "Getting There" section:
1. park on Indian River Drive before the fire roads begin and bike in and out (and haul your bikes up the trail a bit).
2. Drive in and drop everyone off except the driver, then the driver can drive back out and bike back in.

Soon To Be Blown Up

Logging road access is before 5am and after 6pm during the week. Weekends and statutory holidays have 24 hour access. If you are unsure about the access, ask before you go.

Although you are technically walking around the property it will feel like you are walking through the owners yard. The owner is fine with climbers going through but please be respectful and keep dogs on a leash and the volume down.

Do not use the old Chimney Trail for the descent due to erosion and rock fall danger. Climbing is not an officially recognized activity in the park.

Climbers have access up to the roped fence. Owners do not want climbers going down to the river. There is also livestock that roams the forest. Please keep your dogs under control. Boulders on east side of river are off limits.

Peregrines are known to nest on the cliffs nearby (across Davis Lake to the west). They have not been observed nesting on this crag to date but climbers should remain aware of the possibility for nesting falcons and be prepared to retreat if it seems apparent that birds are nesting close to or on routes.

Some special rules apply to certain routes which are near native paintings. Access is by canoe or Alpine Club of Canada water shuttle

No access issues as of this date.

Must pay to enter the park... it's something like 5 or 10 pesos

Property has been abandoned and is for sale. We have permission to climb for now, but the future of the area is uncertain. Do not use any of the buildings.

This crag is apparently located on undeveloped private property. Although access has not been an issue in the past, climbers should recognize the owners' rights and obey any posted signage with respect to trespassing or parking.

Cuba has been become a booming winter climbing destination. Hundreds of overhanging sport routes draw Canadian and European climbers, and Cuba’s vast limestone walls are home to a developing community of local climbers. Cuba also has become a favorite destination for many other adventure travelers. For now, it is all over. An unexplained edict of the Cuban government has closed its western mountains, not only to climbers, but all visitors, climbers, hikers, and birders a like. This report is provided here because of the many U.S. climbers who ignore the lightly-enforced U.S. travel ban to climb in Cuba.



Trouble in Paradise

In January 2012 the Cuban authorities closed almost all access to the mountains in Western Cuba. The closure does not apply only to climbers, but all visitors, from cavers and mountain bikers to hikers and bird-watchers. In Viñales National Park, home of about 80 percent of the established routes, access is limited to walking with official guides on the few trails long ago “authorized” by officials for tourism. The authorized trails reach about one percent of Viñales Valley, and go nowhere near any of the climbing sites. The rest of this World Heritage site is off-limits to all visitors.

No one has seen a written decree, so the full scope, rationale, and penalties are unknown. Local officials themselves can’t say why the policy on access has changed.

Some of the crags in this area are on Canadian Military land. Members of UNB Rock and Ice Club need to call Range Control before going. Non-members must present themselves in person to Range Control and procure a pass. 506 422-2000 ext 3121

Access for hiking, biking and bouldering currently accepted (as of june 2010)

The Lower Seymour Conservation Area (LSCR) has decided not permit rock climbing or manage the climbing area within it's borders. The LSCR will not prevent persons from climbing within the LSCR's borders at this time. Any person who chooses to rock climb within the LSCR borders does so at thier own risk. A Sign is posted at the crag stating the LSCR's position.

To keep the this option available to all climbers please respect any signs posted with regards to this area.

There will be no organized trail building or posting of any information regarding this climbing area within the LSCR's borders.

More info here: www.access-society.ca/regions/lower-mainland/areas/sully-s-h>>>

Although on the map this has been designated as a Protected Natural Area by the state, local land developers have been gearing up to try and subdivide the forest land below the climbing area. Grupo Escala and Tierra Verde are two groups that are trying to keep las Paredes de Copoya in its natural state.

you must either call in or get a day pass at Camp Petersville

This crag is archeologically sensitive, with petroglyphs and other remnants of ancient cultures.

The Ice Field Snocoaches gate is closed during buisness hours, but the gate is open in the wee hours. This allows for a alpine start, but you may have to wait for a bus to open the gate to get out during the day.

This area is on private property at the top of El Pital. There is a $2.00 entrace fee.

Parks Canada occasionally restricts party size on certain approach/descent trails around Mt. Temple (Paradise Valley/Larch Valley) due to Grizzly Bear activity. It may be necessary to hike in groups of 4 or MORE. Contanct Parks Canada for current restrictions.

Residents of Canada need to have:
-FQME 'Accès Montagne' membership (55$)
-For members of the Alpine Club of Canada an FQME 'Accès Montagne' upgrade (30$)
Or purchasing a 10$ day pass.

This money is used to pay the liability insurance for landowners regardless if they are private citizens, municipal or provincial.
The maintenance of cliffs and their access, replacing of fixed protection.

www.fqme.qc.ca

you need to know toby.

Walking across train bridge is technically trespassing. There is no way to reach this crag that does not involve using the train tracks.

This area is on or very close to private land. It is asked that people respect the property and the privacy of the land owners. Please clean up all trash!!

After having been closed to climbing for several years, Old Baldy is open again, thanks to the efforts of Toronto Section's Access Committee. An agreement is in place with the Grey Sauble Region to allow climbing to take place at Old Baldy. The agreement requires climbers to purchase an annual climbing permit and abide by strict methodologies adopted to minimize environmental impact. To obtain your permit you will need to fax or mail an application to the Grey Sauble Conservation Authority. A copy of the permit application form is available on-line.

There is a private home up the hill and they charge a few bucks for the day to park & climb since you have to go through their property to get there.

Residents of Canada need to have:
-FQME 'Accès Montagne' membership (55$)
-For members of the Alpine Club of Canada an FQME 'Accès Montagne' upgrade (30$)
Or purchasing a 10$ day pass.

This money is used to pay the liability insurance for landowners regardless if they are private citizens, municipal or provincial.
The maintenance of cliffs and their access, replacing of fixed protection.

www.fqme.qc.ca

Mount Douglas is on Canadian Military land. Members of UNB Rock and Ice Club need to call Range Control before going. Non-members must present themselves in person to Range Control and procure a pass at Camp Petersville

Please respect the area and surrounding residents homes. Try and keep the area clean and keep the noise down especially in the evenings.

Climbing is only allowed on Sundays and a maximum of 40 climbers are allowed in the area at the same time. Entrance is granted from 9am to 1pm and climbers must leave by 4:30pm.

This area uses private property, hopefully by respecting this, it will never become an issue.

Ask for permission if at all possible. Take care to minimize all impacts in this Iowa Natural Heritage Foundation (INHF) area. See map; www.inhf.org/destinations/upperiowa/upperiowabend.htm

Climbing closed at Black Hawk Wall and between the Gunsight and Chimney Rock. This includes the bolted climb Saving Grace between the Gunsight and Chimney Rock and two bolted climbs on Black Hawk Wall called Wedding Bells and an unnamed route.

More info available at rockclimbing.com:

www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/Iowa>>>

Register with the park service before climbing in this area.

Due to it hugging the river it may be accessible only through one opening, or not at all if the river is too high.

Access will depend on river levels and currents

This is run by a professor from University of Northern Iowa on the WEEKENDS ONLY. There is an admission cost and designated climbing times. For more info check their website here www.siloiceclimbing.com/index.php

I have been out to this beautiful arch to climb it once and the owner didn't care as long as we were respectful.

$3 admission. Call (785) 392-2577 if you need more info

Roadside Crag is closed to climbing until further notice. Do not further jeopardize access by trespassing.

The USFS has closed a number of routes because they are located in close proximity to historical and archaeological sites. The following routes are closed indefinitely: Cindy Lou's Left Tube Seuss Seuss Sudio Fox in Locks.

Be aware, there may be more.

Permission and access can be gained at Red River Outdoors. This is typically a guiding area and not open to the public at this time.

It is legal to park along the road near Tunnel Ridge Road, but you will be trespassing at the bouldering area. It is not posted, and access has never been an issue, but many people live within earshot of this place. If you go, please be quiet and responsible and don't take dogs or large groups. Be discreet.

Muir Valley is owned by Rick Weber, please respect the area. We are very fortunate to be allowed into the valley. Follow the trails, don't shortcut, use the bathrooms in the parking lot. don't leave ANYTHING behind (except maybe your skin and ego)

There may be closures for endangered species under Sultans of Stem which also include Close to the Edge and Finger Lickin' Good. Check with the USFS before climbing these routes.

Visit www.rrgcc.org prior to visiting.

This wall is in Private property. Be respectful. Your behavior on this land can either help us secure access.. or help us lose it.

Watch out. There is no need to climb a building in a situation where you feel like you may get caught. The more people that are caught buildering, the more people that will be on the watch for builderers. In trying to establish new routes, scout out the line of least resistance, and give a shot when you least expect to be caught. LEAVE NO TRACE, as if it were Maine's last remaining forest. The more traces, the more people will notice builderers.

I have yet to interact with any faculty, or Umaine police in regards to climbing buildings on campus grounds. BUT, if they treat it anything like they treat skateboarding you would rather not talk to them.

The boulders at Bradbury are close to the border of the State Park but not quite. Please keep a low profile here. The landowner apparently does not mind climbing here as long as the area is kept quiet and clean.

Like the rest of the boulders, these are on private property.

All the cliffs except for one top out into private residences of summer people. Be sure to secure permission from the land owner before rigging a top rope or transiting their land.

Most summer people are gone after October and don't return till June.

Gates close at sunset make sure you don't get locked in or you may be spending the night

This area sits above an active semi-private resort in front and State land behind. Access currently requires boating as the closest land approach is blocked by a lake.

This is private land not open to public climbing, currently.

Do not park along Park Street.

Baltimore City owns the property, and they are not wholly receptive to climbers. The noted areas and routes herein this guide are for historical purposes only. Should you chose to climb here, it's at your own risk.

While the climbing at the cliff is allowed (get a permit in town) accessing the "pit" via the steel ladder may not be. If climbing here keeping a low profile in the pit (stay off the rim of the pit) is recommended.

Herzog Island can be easily waded to when the water is low upstream from Carderock, but wading in the Potomac is frowned upon by park rangers. Bring a canoe if you want to adhere to the letter of the law.

While the actual cliff of Friction Wall is on park property the longstanding approach via the train tracks is private. While climbers have been tolerated in the past, be discreet, park legally, and above all do not walk on the tracks!

Sugarloaf is a privately owned recreation area. The park is closed at night and the gate is locked. Allow enough time to pack, hike, and drive out the oneway road to the gate before it is locked.

This area is a nesting site for ravens. The landowners ask that climbers avoid the climbs/areas where ravens are nesting. The nesting period generally lasts from mid May to late June/early July. During this time, observe any closure signs.

The climbing is on private land the landowner (not the local climbers) is requesting that climbers do not publish information on the routes at Farley Ledge. The Western Mass Climbers Coalition folks are trying to help assure that the landowner's wishes are respected, and users are requested NOT to post route information on Mountain Project.

Since Farley is all on private land, the owners have the ability to take access away at any time if they feel that overcrowding is happening. And they are sensitive to this overcrowding and watching it.

In order to protect the access that we do have at Farley, we are taking down route information should be taken down in order to respect the landowner's wishes.

The WMCC is working on a longer-term solution for the area, and will make information more readily available so that folks understand the issues and don't feel that access is being restricted simply to keep the area sacred to the locals.

town owned park

Neighbors have called the cops in the past and climbers have been directed by Lynn's finest to leave this area with guns drawn.

as with all buildering you are operating at your own risk. Each area has its own " bust potential." A bicycle will assist in traveling between areas.

THe Nature conservancy own an easement on the land that allows for wilderness type recreation and any climbing of repelling is currently banned.

Officially climbing and rappelling is not allowed on ROTC how ever this area is used by the Northern Michigan Reserve Officers Training Corps. The R.O.T.C has anchors located at the top of the crag for abseiling. These anchors are in a locked box. -DO NOT ATTEMPT TO USE THESE ANCHORS OR CLIMB WHILE THE ROTC IS IN THE AREA!!!!-

Locals and organized groups have been climbing here for almost forty years and the increasing traffic is causing friction between user groups. Please be extremely mindful that access is delicate at the AAA.

DO NOT ALTER THE ENVIRONMENT (in any way)
Only use the fire pit in the main camping area by the slab
Remove all trash, yours or someone else's
Encourage others to be responsible

This wall is within the wilderness area of the BWCA (Boundary Waters) and requires a canoe or kayak and obtaining a permit for the stay, but definitely worth the extra effort for the variety of climbs / difficulties. The access point is 50 miles northwest of
Grand Marais, Minnesota on Gun Flint Trail. A fee of $16.00 per person for up to 14 days is charged April-September.

Technically closed to climbing. Some folks still climb here so if you choose to, be discrete and leave if you are asked.

This is not private property but setting up top-ropes involves walking along the train tracks which is not legal. Be discrete and respect the land owner's requests to leave the premises.

To access the climbing, one must cross train tracks which are private property. Keep a low profile.

Land owner at the end of 123rd Ave W. Make sure to park in the new climber's parking lot, NOT AT THE OLD MUNGER TRAIL. The land owner still feels that he owns all of this land (not true) so stick to the climbers trail and climbing areas and you'll be fine.

This area is overseen by MNDOT. Keep a low profile and stay off of the highway. Stay off of the obvious climb in the dihedral where the tunnel meets the highway. Also note, the top is private property.

Access information included at both these links.

www.recsports.umn.edu/membership/
www.recsports.umn.edu/coa/wall.html

Day or overnight permits are required for all visitors of the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness. Reservations can be made in advance here

Be advised that bouldering activity and chalk use within BWCA has a potential to be viewed as harmful to the unique vegetation within the Park. When in doubt, consult the Rangers.

Climbing in Mankato is currently operating under a don't ask don't tell policy. It is imperative that climbers in Mankato keep an incredibly low profile at every destination entered.

Climbing in this area may or may not be trespassing but nothing is posted. Local authorities say the top of the cliffs are private land and the city owns the land below the cliffs. Climbing is legal but aware of restrictions.

The Lonely Boulder's property lines are unknown, it may be park, it may be private property. Just in case, I recommend approaching from the East (downside of the hill). Be respectful and keep the usual low profile! :)

Make sure you check with rangers before climbing the falls. You do not need a special permit but they appreciate it if you let them know you plan to climb. You will also need a MN state parks annual or daily pass to park your vehicle (mandatory.)

Available at courtesy of the owner. Please keep low profile and be respectful of the local residents.

Be respectful and minimize your impact. St. Paul parks require that you obtain an annual ice climbing permit. The permit requires a signed waiver and a fee. There has been dialogue with the city about this requirement and many climbers do not agree with the fee. For more information on this access issue see discussions on MN forums.

See the following website for more information:
www.stpaul.gov/index.asp?NID=1402

This is a St. Paul park and they require that you obtain an annual ice climbing permit. The permit requires a signed waiver and a fee. www.stpaul.gov/index.asp?NID=1402

There has been a dialogue with the city about this requirement and many climbers do not agree with them charging a fee. For more information on this there have been several discussions on MN forums.

This is a St. Paul park and they require that you obtain an annual ice climbing permit. The permit requires a signed waiver and a fee. www.stpaul.gov/index.asp?NID=1402

There has been a dialogue with the city about this requirement and many climbers do not agree with them charging a fee. For more information on this there have been several discussions on MN forums.

This is a St. Paul park and they require that you obtain an annual ice climbing permit. The permit requires a signed waiver and a fee. www.stpaul.gov/index.asp?NID=1402

There has been a dialogue with the city about this requirement and many climbers do not agree with them charging a fee. For more information on this there have been several discussions on MN forums.

there is a parking lot you can aget to from hwy 13.

Make sure to check in with Wolf Ridge ELC to let them know you are climbing and stick to established trails. Wolf Ridge is happy to let climbers use their property but avoid the beach if there are groups/children and do not use any of their gear (canoes, backboard, etc.)

This area is considered CLOSED by both the landowner who owns the fields above and the park service, who may have rights to the cliff, as it is along the Katy Trail.

This area is considered CLOSED by both the landowner who owns the fields above and the park service, who may have rights to the cliff, as it is along the Katy Trail.

June 2009 Update: There have been recent new developments in climbers access to Allenspur. For years the "Red Barn Antiques" property (now under new ownership) has been off-limits for use to approach the crags- all access has been via the Harper property easement. The current owners, however, are interested allowing climbers to hike to the crags via a more direct trail across the southern end of their property. The SMCC and the landowners have entered into a one-year trial period for SMCC Members and their guests to use this new approach.

For more info and photos:

www.montanaclimbers.org/access/allenspur

Please keep a low profile as access to this neat area would be sketchy at best, given the approach across a private bridge and potential land owner conflicts.

Leave no trace, keep the noise level to a minimum, don’t build any fires and respect all closed gates and fences. Be nice and respectful to any land owners and/or locals. Thank you.

There are two gates along the access road. Please close these as you pass through them to avoid conflict with landowners.

Drive a little past climbing area and pull off at trailcreek exit. go under the interstate and turn left drive as short distance and park just past the pink house ad right near the old cattle dock.

The Humbug Spires are part of the Humbug Spires Wilderness Study Area managed by the Bureau of Land Management. The road is closed to motorized vehicles from December 2 to May 15. The use of power drills is prohibited.

Visit www.hyalite.org for updates.

Please be respectful of the climbing area and minimize your impact. Access is open but keep a low profile.

The trail leading to the upper wall (just west of Psychology wall) is slowly wearing away. The trail actually continues past the large Ponderosa instead of leading straight up the talus/dirt slope. Please be mindful as we would like to climb here for years to come!

The trail leading to the upper wall (just west of Psychology wall) is slowly wearing away. The trail actually continues past the large Ponderosa instead of leading straight up the talus/dirt slope. Please be mindful as we would like to climb here for years to come!

Stick to the trail for the first half mile, and use approach trails to get up to the crags

Usually you can find parking on the road and walk the old logging roads to the crags.

Mulkey Gulch is located on private property and must be accessed by a dirt two-track through private property. Please be respectful and only use the road in good conditions to prevent tearing it up and having access to this climbing closed. Also, as always use leave no trace ethics when at the climbing area!

This area is only private land, although climbing is allowed. Please park up the road and walk back down to the crag, and keep the land clean.

Be courteous when crossing the Cattlemen's range house so the approach is not shut down.

This area has had access trouble in the past. The way in used to cross private property. Apparently the landowner has been contacted and he has proposed a way to get to Arrow without crossing his land. Please follow the directions closely so as to avoid his land. Also if you get your car stuck, try everything possible to avoid going to his house for help.

Closed to climbing. Bolts have been removed. Don't even boulder in the area.

Leave no trace, keep a low profile, and park off the street.

On the approach, from the parking spot the first 1/5 mile or so is most likely on Private property. We don't condone trespassing but we've never had a problem moving quickly and purposefully, do so at your own risk of course.

Park carefully and quietly!!!

Access may be private.

Access through private sand & gravel works. The crag itself is on public land but access is unknown.

The USFS issued a temporary closure due to nesting peregrine falcons. The closure should last from April through July. For more info, see www.fs.usda.gov/alerts/whitemountain/alerts-notices/?aid=109>>>

The USFS issued a temporary closure due to nesting peregrine falcons. The closure should last from April through July. For more info, see www.fs.usda.gov/alerts/whitemountain/alerts-notices

This land is owned/adjacent to a summer camp.

Landowners in Lyme have closed the area known as Pickledish Ledges east of the Dartmouth Skiway on the Windslow side to the public. There were reports of climbers pooping in the trail and not respecting the area

Landowners in Lyme have closed the area known as Pickledish Ledges east of the Dartmouth Skiway on the Windslow side to the public. There were reports of climbers pooping in the trail and not respecting the area

The USFS issued a temporary closure due to nesting peregrine falcons. The closure should last from April through July. For more info, see www.fs.usda.gov/alerts/whitemountain/alerts-notices/?aid=109>>>

The USFS had implemented a temporary closure for nesting peregrine falcons. It should last from April through July. For more info, see www.fs.usda.gov/alerts/whitemountain/alerts-notices

The Shield is only open from mid-August through February for peregrine falcons even though they are no longer protected, so you'll have to plan accordingly. The Knife Edge is open year-round.

The USFS-imposed closure applies to UNM Spire, the Prow, the Ramp, and the Shield (but not the Knife Edge). The Needle, and its south and east approaches, are unaffected.

The gate to Thompson Canyon can and will be locked at times through out the year. This is due to the ranch's concerns about excessive traffic at night and the continued threat of wild fires. As a private road, the landowners have the right to close off this access point.

When the gate is locked the area can still accessed through Davenport Canyon, but be advised that this is rough 4WD and takes about 1 hour to drive in that way.

New Mexico CRAG will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if we can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure and spread the word.

Here is the latest plan from the landowner (Updated March 2012):

PRIVATE ROAD RESTRICTIONS
This road is private property for the next 1.5 miles. Please respect the restrictions below. If you do not, permission to use the road will likely be revoked.

Timing - This road is closed for through traffic at all the following times:

• [From 1 September to 30 January (unless otherwise specified on www.XXX)];

• All public holidays (including adjacent Mondays and Fridays); and

• At any time after dark.

• The owner may temporarily close it at other times. Please respect temporary signs.

Use of road – When using the private road:

• You do so at your own risk. It is not maintained and, for example, is unsuitable for passenger cars.

• No RVs or other heavy vehicles are permitted.

• Do not exceed 15 mph.

• Leave gates as you find them (open or closed).

• [Remove all waste, including human waste].

Alternative access to Thompson Canyon: There is an alternative access approximately 3 miles to the West, via Davenport Canyon, on FR6 and FR59 (4WD).

See www. XXXX for details and temporary closures. This permission may be revoked at any time.

Presumably the website will either be this or the Stone Age Climbing Gym site or both

Bear Boulder and the area known as Flame Thrower (on the ridge behind Bear Boulder)are closed to climbing per the land owner, the Chihuahuan Desert Nature Park. This closure has been made fairly recently and the CDNP is posting signs to notify visitors that climbing on their preserve is prohibited.

According to the most recently published guide on Ship Rock ("Desert Rock", and "50 Classics.."), Ship Rock was placed off limits to climbing in 1967, but the ban was not enforced until 1970, following an accident. Since 1970, some people have made clandestine ascents without incident. Others climbing on the Navajo Nation have had their gear confiscated or been fined- it is unclear what the specific consequences would be if confronted by Navajo authorities. It is unclear if one can get permission to climb here from someone with the appropriate authority to legitimize climbing here.
Some climbers have talked to locals, especially the grazing-permit holders, and respectfully asked permission, and have had really positive experiences, climbing as well as a cultural experience, at other places on the Navajo Nation.

It is probably legal to drive to the base. It is supposedly illegal to camp there, however widespread litter suggests that this is a popular "party spot" (which may be deterrent in of itself). It is illegal to collect or remove rocks on the Navajo Nation, without a permit.

This area is included for historical purposes mainly, and as a location to put those amazing photos everyone has.

While some have made clandestine ascents in the area without incident, others climbing on the Navajo Nation have had their gear confiscated or have been fined. It is unclear what the specific consequences would be if confronted by Navajo authorities. It is unclear if one can get permission to climb here from someone with the appropriate authority to legitimize climbing here. Some climbers have talked to locals, especially the grazing-permit holders, and respectfully asked permission, and have had really positive experiences, climbing as well as a cultural experience, in some areas on the Navajo Nation.

This area is included for historical purposes mainly, and as a location to put those amazing photos everyone has.

Although Tucumcari Mountain is technically private land, most of the best climbing is found on the Eastern side which is owned by a cattle company and I have never seen anyone asked to leave.

In the past, the Los Alamos Mountaineers had access to this cliff, but this is no longer the case. Some have suggested trying to request permission through Corkins Lodge. Access and climb at your own risk!

The Lincoln National Forest Service continues its ban on bolting new routes (or, by permission only). However, climbing is currently allowed in all areas of Last Chance Canyon.

"Climbers or others may not use power drills to place permanent fixed anchors". The BLM has the authority to manage climbing activities in Wilderness Areas. Although climbing generally does not require an authorization permit, BLM may require a permit for climbing and activities associated with climbing on public lands. As established by the Wilderness Act and the BLM’s regulations on management of designated Wilderness Areas found in 43 CFR 6302, climbers or others may not use power drills to place permanent fixed anchors in non-emergency situations. Climbers may use hand-powered drills to place permanent fixed anchors. Appendix 1 lists some of the relevant BLM authorities that apply to climbing in Wilderness Areas.

The remainder are on US Forest Service land. A map detailing the public areas can be obtained from the ranger station en route to the rocks from the village of Tres Piedras.
According to Jan Studebaker: "The property line runs from approximately the current east corner by the access gate in a straight line over the top of South Rock to the top middle of the Chicken Heads/Mosaic Wall mount, and from there west down the mount slope to the meadow just south of the Alley climbs. Some of the most popular routes are completely on private property. There are survey markers on the top of South rock (the mysterious aluminum stake stuck in the rock) and on top of the Mosaic rock (most of the time buried in water in a pot hole.)"

A new online Tres Piedras Route Guide from LA Mountaineers has been updated with the latest access information, and should be read by all Tres Piedras climbers. Group climb leaders, and Climbing Directors (future or past) should take particular note. From the guide:

Access Notes: Tres Piedras climbers should sign the waiver found on this page because the popular South Rock is mostly on private land, as is some of the access to the area. The landowner, requests a waiver, NO fires, no chalk and "please close any gates".

In order to nurture greater landowner acceptance of climbers, participants of group climbs are requested to organize quick clean up activities before leaving the area; this should include the climbing area as well as the access roads (trip leaders could supply plastic grocery bags). Small parties should practice "leave no trace" principles.

On August 19, 2009 the landowner stated: "Yes I still own the property, and yes I'd still like to have waivers on hand - even or perhaps especially from your organization. Only once in awhile do I have problems with climbers, mostly not picking up after themselves. My biggest gripe is that despite repeated requests, the climbers don't remove protection (edit: colored webbing, shiny hardware) from the climbing routes, which is both lazy and unattractive. Your organization could do me a big favor by doing a group climb and removing the crap that others have left on the various routes so that it is both a pristine part of the landscape, and so that each climber must figure out his own route without relying on the handiwork of others."

Poison-ivy is ubiquitous along the rivers edge up to the highwater mark. Careful, if you are close enough to identify it, you are likely standing in it.

If you get ticketed for parking on the side of the road near the trailhead, its only a $5 fee you put a bill in and drop it in the drop box at the roadside camping area 2 miles west.

However, if you get caught on Maverick, you get fined a larger sum and/or arrested.

Rock climbing is not legal on the Colin Neblett WMA, which includes this section of Cimarron Canyon.

Be aware and able to identify this plant. It is mainly in the highwater zone. If you see it close by, you are likely standing in it.

Leaves of three let it be, White berry be wary

Located on Philmont Scout Ranch. If you are staff you will be fired if caught, if not you will be charged with trespassing.

Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.

Currently the landowner/s do not prohibit crossing their property; however this may change in the future. Our behavior as climbers may influence their attitude, and thus our ease of access to this area.

Nature Conservancy issues, the climb is only accessible via a 1/3 mile swim

Thus far, there haven't been problems with getting booted, but we've heard that "Officially" there is no climbing here. The location of the climbing is totally in the furthest reaches of the park and is not likely to cause issues.

A portion of the Near Trapps has been closed to climbing. This includes land below the cliff to above cliff line and starts approximately at Eenie Meenie and continues south about 200 feet. Climbers are asked to respect the no-trespassing signs and advised to use the access trail marked in orange blazes. This trail starts at the intersection of the Blue trail over the top of the Nears and the first Red trail. Follow the orange blazes east and downhill from this junction to arrive at the far (south) end of the Nears.
For more information please view www.mohonkpreserve.org/index.php?news

Alpine Endeavors has been contracted by the Mountain House to be the only guide service legally allowed to guide at Sky Top, and ONLY to overnight guests of the Mountain House. This might seem completely unfair, but it's their sandbox - so, it's their rules. If you want to legally climb at Sky Top, you have to be an overnight guest at the Mountain House AND be guided. Even if you're an overnight guest who is a fully-competent climber, you MUST still be guided. Guided rock climbing is not included in the price of your stay; look HERE and HERE for more information.

Apparently, plans are in the works to have security patrols stepped up to prevent unauthorized access to the area. There will also be other methods used to confirm and prevent unauthorized access.

Regardless, this is a huge step in the uphill battle to win public climbing access back. Due to this development, the guide book information will be put back up, and the population of the route DB is encouraged.

ACCESS ALERT (3/20/12): ATTENTION CLIMBERS - ROUTE CLOSURE! Due to nesting Peregrine Falcons, the section of the Trapps Cliff between and including the routes Credibility Gap (5.6) and Bitchy Virgin (5.6) is temporarily closed to rock climbing. Do not use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area. Do not use the section of the cliff base climber's trail between these routes. Please refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of the this closure. Thanks to the climbing community for your help in protecting the Peregrines! -- Mohonk Preserve.

The rocks reside inside Allegheny State Park, which requires a small fee to enter.

Rhododendron bluff atop hill is owned by Triangle Land conservancy. Please respect and do not remove plant life and try to preserve bank stability.

Please try to preserve the bank and also don't mess with any of the rhododendrons at the top.

The crag is owned by the Hound Ears Golf Club and is closed to climbing. Bouldering is allowed only during the annual Triple Crown bouldering competition.

It’s the time of year to welcome back North Carolinas Peregrine Falcons. While the Peregrine Falcon was removed from the United States Fish and Wildlife Services endangered species list in 1999. It remains listed as sensitive by the Regional Forester and endangered by the state of North Carolina. These designations continue to afford the Peregrine Falcon protection as the Forest Service and partner agencies work to conserve and protect the species.
Eight pairs nested in 2011, five of which were on Forest Service lands, Of the five pairs on the Forest, only three nested successfully, indicating that long-term reproductive success continues to be a concern. Young chicks startled prior to acquiring full flight capability will run off the edge of the cliff attempting to escape the threat.
Closure of the cliffs where Peregrine Falcons are nesting to climbing activities is necessary to limit disturbance during critical reproductive seasons. Climbers should be aware that both the adults and newly fledged chicks remain in the vicinity of the nest site. and may fly or dive at nearby climbers. It is unlawful to take (kill, harass, or injure, including eggs) Peregrine Falcons and other birds of prey (Migratory Bird Treaty Act, I6 USC 703-T12). Until such time as western North Carolina can maintain a healthy reproduction rate and successfully raise young Peregrine Falcons, the existing closures will be maintained, posted and enforced.

For more information visit www.fs.usda.gov (search for National Forests in North Carolina, then follow two links: Land & Resource Management; Resource Management). Thank you for your continued cooperation with restoration efforts for this magnificent bird of prey.

It’s the time of year to welcome back North Carolina’s peregrine falcons. While the peregrine falcon was removed from the United States Fish and Wildlife Service’s endangered species list in 1999, it remains listed as sensitive by the Regional Forester and endangered by the state of North Carolina. These designations continue to afford the peregrine falcon protection as the Forest Service and partner agencies work to conserve and protect the species.

Thirteen pairs nested in 2010, eight of which were on Forest Service lands. While 2010 appears to have been a good year for the falcons, long-term reproductive success continues to be a concern. Young chicks startled prior to acquiring full flight capability will run off the edge of the cliff attempting to escape the threat. Entry into a closure site after the chicks have hatched but before they can fly will almost certainly cause this response.

Closure of the cliffs where peregrine falcons are nesting to climbing activities is necessary to limit disturbance during critical reproductive seasons. Climbers should be aware that both the adults and newly fledged chicks remain in the vicinity of the nest site, and may fly or dive at nearby climbers. It is unlawful to take (kill, harass, or injure, including eggs) peregrine falcons and other birds of prey (Migratory Bird Treaty Act, 16 USC 703-712).
Until such time as western North Carolina can maintain a healthy reproduction rate and successfully raise young peregrine falcons, the existing closures will be maintained, posted, and enforced.

Entry into or upon the areas defined above is prohibited between January 15 and August 15. Areas are defined by orange painted boundary or posted signs. This closure is in effect whether or not signs are present.

Its the time of year to welcome back North Carolinas Peregrine Falcons. While the Peregrine Falcon was removed from the United States Fish and Wildlife Services endangered species list in 1999. It remains listed as sensitive by the Regional Forester and endangered by the state of North Carolina. These designations continue to afford the Peregrine Falcon protection as the Forest Service and partner agencies work to conserve and protect the species.
Eight pairs nested in 2011, five of which were on Forest Service lands, Of the five pairs on the Forest, only three nested successfully, indicating that long-term reproductive success continues to be a concern. Young chicks startled prior to acquiring full flight capability will run off the edge of the cliff attempting to escape the threat.
Closure of the cliffs where Peregrine Falcons are nesting to climbing activities is necessary to limit disturbance during critical reproductive seasons. Climbers should be aware that both the adults and newly fledged chicks remain in the vicinity of the nest site. and may fly or dive at nearby climbers. It is unlawful to take (kill, harass, or injure, including eggs) Peregrine Falcons and other birds of prey (Migratory Bird Treaty Act, I6 USC 703-T12). Until such time as western North Carolina can maintain a healthy reproduction rate and successfully raise young Peregrine Falcons, the existing closures will be maintained, posted and enforced.

For more information visit www.fs.usda.gov (search for National Forests in North Carolina, then follow two links: Land & Resource Management; Resource Management). Thank you for your continued cooperation with restoration efforts for this magnificent bird of prey.

Rappel stations are located atop the routes: “Boardwalk” (for main section of cliff) and “Edge of a Dream” (for upper tier routes). Please see www.accessfund.org/regions/news/NC for more info

It’s the time of year to welcome back North Carolina’s peregrine falcons. While the peregrine falcon was removed from the United States Fish and Wildlife Service’s endangered species list in 1999, it remains listed as sensitive by the Regional Forester and endangered by the state of North Carolina. These designations continue to afford the peregrine falcon protection as the Forest Service and partner agencies work to conserve and protect the species.

Closure of the cliffs where peregrine falcons are nesting to climbing activities is necessary to limit disturbance during critical reproductive seasons. Climbers should be aware that both the adults and newly fledged chicks remain in the vicinity of the nest site, and may fly or dive at nearby climbers. It is unlawful to take (kill, harass, or injure, including eggs) peregrine falcons and other birds of prey (Migratory Bird Treaty Act, 16 USC 703-712).
The purpose of this communication is to inform you that we have added Victory Wall to the list of climbing site closures. Until such time as western North Carolina can maintain a healthy reproduction rate and successfully raise young peregrine falcons, the existing closures will be maintained, posted, and enforced.

For more information visit www.fs.usda.gov (search for National Forests in North Carolina, then follow two links: Land & Resource Management; Resource Management). Thank you for your continued cooperation with restoration efforts for this magnificent bird of prey.

It’s the time of year to welcome back North Carolinas Peregrine Falcons. While the Peregrine Falcon was removed from the United States Fish and Wildlife Services endangered species list in 1999. It remains listed as sensitive by the Regional Forester and endangered by the state of North Carolina. These designations continue to afford the Peregrine Falcon protection as the Forest Service and partner agencies work to conserve and protect the species.
Eight pairs nested in 2011, five of which were on Forest Service lands, Of the five pairs on the Forest, only three nested successfully, indicating that long-term reproductive success continues to be a concern. Young chicks startled prior to acquiring full flight capability will run off the edge of the cliff attempting to escape the threat.
Closure of the cliffs where Peregrine Falcons are nesting to climbing activities is necessary to limit disturbance during critical reproductive seasons. Climbers should be aware that both the adults and newly fledged chicks remain in the vicinity of the nest site. and may fly or dive at nearby climbers. It is unlawful to take (kill, harass, or injure, including eggs) Peregrine Falcons and other birds of prey (Migratory Bird Treaty Act, I6 USC 703-T12). Until such time as western North Carolina can maintain a healthy reproduction rate and successfully raise young Peregrine Falcons, the existing closures will be maintained, posted and enforced.

For more information visit www.fs.usda.gov (search for National Forests in North Carolina, then follow two links: Land & Resource Management; Resource Management). Thank you for your continued cooperation with restoration efforts for this magnificent bird of prey.

There is private property southeast of the cliff just off of the Buckeye Trail.

You must obtain a permit to climb with a rope system. Contact Mike Barnhart 216 351 6300, Ext. 264, with the Cleveland Metro Parks system. You can visit the Cleveland Zoo and get things handled their as well, but don't expect same day service. You must have proof of 300,000 USD personal liability insurance (home owners or renters) if you plan on using a rope system to be safe in the presence of our Honorable Rangers.

Parking along Avery Drive can get you into trouble as well as possible trespassing issues with the individual areas. Park and climb at your own risk. Parking along Avery Drive can and will alert the cops to your climbing activity.

Last I recall they put up no trespassing signs below the damn because they were worried about terrorists blowing up the damn and ruining the water supply. Don't know how true that excuse is, but you can easily access the area but your not supposed hang out there.

Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.

See Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge page.

Currently the the US Fish and Wildlife Service is reviewing the Comprehensive Conservation Plan and reviewing activities for compatibility. Contact the Access Fund or the Wichita Mountains Climber's Coalition for more information on how you can get involved in keeping the tradition of climbing safe in the Wildlife Refuge. Use extra care to avoid doing anything to change the natural resources in any way.

Currently the the US Fish and Wildlife Service is reviewing the Comprehensive Conservation Plan and reviewing activities for compatibility. Contact the Access Fund or the Wichita Mountains Climber's Coalition for more information on how you can get involved in keeping the tradition of climbing safe in the Wildlife Refuge. Use extra care to avoid doing anything to change the natural resources in any way.

The owners had an issue with someone venturing onto their land without permission and causing a huge ruckus, and have informed us that any vehicle found parked there without us will be towed, and anyone found in the boulders without us will be prosecuted for trespassing. Until things get better, please feel free to ask for a tour. We will gladly take you!

From the Washington Park's Page
Beacon Rock offers excellent opportunities for rock climbing except where it interferes with nesting raptors, primarily on the south face. The presence of the falcon nest requires that the south face be closed to technical rock activity February 1 to mid-July annually; open the rest of the year. The east face is closed year-round due to environmental sensitivity. Call the park at (509) 427-8265 for more information.

This is very important to remember, and the rules associated with climbing here must be respected if it is to remain open to climbers. In order to climb or boulder at this area you must sign a waiver and pay a one-time $8 fee at the Portland Rock Gym. Be sure to carry photo ID with you when you're at the area. Respect the land owner's property, don't litter, don't add or remove any bolts without permission, etc. It would be a big loss to the Portland climbing community if Carver were to be closed to us so do your part to keep it open and accessable.

Right now I have gained access from the land owners and am able to take people there. Otherwise access is limited. The land owners are willing to allow access they are just asking we construct a trail that avoids parts of their land to provide access to all boulders in Corvallis. Please send me a message if you are interested in helping.

Nevertheless it'd be great to put some information up here for Portland's most beloved crag.

There has never been any issues with climbing on this land. There is a fence next to the road that you cross and the trail up to the upper wall is not so good.

These rocks are most likely on private land. We have never had any problems. Maintain a low profile.

There is a sign noting the north side boundary of the Playground. There is about 60 ft. of protected wall due to a rare flower that grows there. Just don't climb between the two "no climbing zone" signs.

There are seasonal closures due to Peregrine Falcon nesting. Closure is usually from January 1 to July 31.

For 2012 closure info, see

smithrock.com/b2evolution/media/blogs/routes/eagle-closure-2>>>

The poor practice of parking in the original parking lot (part of the way up a logging road that for some reason always has its gate open) should end. There are so many legal parking options and access is so dodgy anyways is it worth compromising future access to save 30 seconds of a walk. Yes its cool to drop right in on Undertow, Hula and Francois but in reality its not that far to park at the road and walk in.

SEASONAL RAPTOR CLOSURE

A new seasonal raptor closure is in effect February 1 through August 31 this year. Public access is closed to all user groups at the Main Wall and all terrain uphill from the riverside trail (Trout Creek Trail).

According to our local BLM Contact, golden eagle nesting has been monitored in the area for more than twenty years, but this is the first time the area has been closed to climbing. Local climbers, Central Oregon Rocks, and the Access Fund are working with the local BLM to assess the monitoring data and keep the closure as minimally restrictive to climbing as possible. The closure could be lifted in May or June if golden eagles have chosen a nest besides the one on the main wall, or if no nesting has occurred.

On Thursday, Molly Brown, Field Ranger for the Prineville BLM signed an order to restructure the Trout Creek climbing closure from mandatory to voluntary, effective on Friday, Feb. 17th, 2012. THE AREA IS STILL CLOSED, AND IT IS MORE IMPORTANT THAN EVER TO CLIMB ELSEWHERE UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE!! This is a great gesture of good faith by the BLM, and one that we suggested in the meeting on Monday. They have requested our assistance in distributing this news and managing the new closure format (including signage, public notice, and compliance). The signs at the trailhead will be replaced tomorrow to mirror these changes.

Click here for more info

NO TOP ACCESS - PRIVATE LAND

Taken verbatim from a post by Jeff Wenger on the topic: "The climbing and part of the approach at Trout Creek sit on a fuzzy boundary of BLM and private land. The land on the mesa above the columns is part of a huge piece of property owned by the original settlers of Gateway, the Vibbert family. It is used to graze cattle and for several months every year as a pay-to-play bird hunting “preserve”. The property also contains an old homestead, a large productive farm, ponds, creeks, 4x4 roads, and an amazing solitary gravesite on the canyon rim between the crag and the campground. What we have here is an old sprawling property with several spotty boundaries on its BLM borders. The family had some BIG reservations about people being up there, mostly because they assumed climbers would want to cross their property and of course they had concerns about liability.

Why have things changed?
By NOT attempting to access the crag over private property, we’ve built trust with the before-weary Vibberts. They feel much better about us being in the area (and that REALLY matters in this case) compared to their initial, understandable reservations. So long as we continue to respect their land by NOT using it to access the cliff, more climbers shouldn’t be a big deal…and more climbers is what posting will bring.

I had the recent opportunity to meet with the guy who manages the hunting preserve for the Vibberts. He mentioned that he checks-in on the crag (what the family calls ‘dry island’) and has been very impressed with the fact that people have been respectful of the land. The Vibbert family loves the area and appreciates the fact others do too (even if the climbing is abrasive and physical!!). They’re thankful we take the time to walk in from the campground and that we encourage others to only access the climbing from below (I.E. lead rather than walk around to TR/rap ). Since neither the county nor the Vibberts are 100% clear on the boundary lines with the BLM and since they once owned all of what is now Gateway, the positive relations we have established are key for long-term access."

The main cliffline at Williamson River Cliffs is closed to all public access for cultural resource concerns. A final environmental assessment to consider a permanent closure or potential re-opening with appropriate restrictions is pending. Contact Mike Lawrence, Chiloquin District Ranger, at(541) 783-4020 for updates and comments.

Map of the closure area:

Closure area at Williamson River Cliffs Submitted By: Joe Sambataro on May 23, 2011 <@? echo PostCache::objectEditBar(107146963,"APPROVED","IMAGE", "COMMENT", "edit, move, del, reassign",array(105860838,106319993),array(105708955,105708965,105860844,107146963),"106319993", "" ); ?@>

Popular belief is that the rocks are on State Gamelands 51 while the trail and parking are on private property. According to the map on the Game Commission Website, the northern boundary of the gamelands does not start until the Casparis area (south of Breakneck). The land is actually owned by a private company, possibly logging. Regardless, the locals seem to be friendly and do not cause much fuss. Ensure that it stays this way by packing out your trash and do not block any of the roads with your vehicle.

Effective January 30, 2012,a temporary climbing closure is in effect for Mt. Minsi on the Pennsylvania side of the Delaware Water Gap National Recreation Area.

Peregrine falcons are attempting to nest on the cliff. As in past years, the falcons will be monitored and the cliff will re-open as soon as the nest is no longer active.

For more information contact:

Allan Ambler
Delaware Water Gap National Recreation Area
Division of Resource Management and Science
294 Old Milford Road
Milford, PA 18337

Phone (570) 296-6952 x 22

Due to the fact that Governor Stable is located on private property, a lease was secured with the landowners. The terms of this lease state that GS is open from 1/1 thru 8/31 of 2011, 2012, and 2013. No information is available regarding climbing access after 2013! DO NOT TRESSPASS when the area is closed to climbing, you could jeopardize access for the future. See friendsofgs.org/ for the latest details.

See the C3PA's maps to avoid trespassing on private property on the apporach.

www.c3pa.org/hunters_rocks

Morgan Highway is on private property, and is closed to climbing.

As per 7/13/11 email reply from A.N.F. Support Service and Recreation Teams, the restrictions on climbing/rappelling are limited to areas below the observation deck, to prevent interaction between rope gear and man-made structures or guests of the observation deck.

The restrictions due to timbering were evidently just a failure to remove the posts from their boards afterwards.

Everything north/upstream of the dam remains closed. Please respect the closure, and support Eric Horst's efforts to restore legal access.

Parking is sometimes an issue. Do not park on the turnpike, or on private property. This leaves a rather long approach. Check with locals for the current parking situation, do not jeopardize access.

There may be access issues climbing downstream from High Rocks. Definitely keep off the paved roads and keep a low profile. Recommend asking local climbers for the current status.

City of Newport (Park’s authority) passed an Ordinance on 10/27/2010 banning rock climbing.

This boulder and the smaller surrounding erratics are now posted no trespassing. There is a camper directly behind the boulder that appears to be in regular use.

The Clamshell and Forgotten Boulder set are surrounded by no trespassing signs. Although the property demarcation lines on the available maps indicated the property line is some 60 yards past the boulders at a small stream, maintaining a low profile is recommended.

Private property - youth camp. Be mindful of your language and behavior, and follow the rules. The camp staff are very welcoming to the outdoor community, but will rightly put their youth first above other users.
www.campeagle.org

Access is from the Main Wall along a shelf high above the river. There is a metal cable strung along most of this shelf. Clip into the cable with a long sling and biner for safety.

You will also see a large rectangular frame and platform jutting out from the cliff. This is a feature reserved exclusively for Camp Eagle. Please stay off.

"Sometimes called the single best boulder in the world, the Mushroom Boulder at Hueco Tanks, Texas, has been closed to climbing to protect the soil, plant life, and possible archaeological resources under the rock. The boulder, located at the base of North Mountain, was closed by Hueco Tanks State Historical Park in mid-December."

Please be sure that the boulder isn't restricted if you plan to climb there in the future. Hopefully, climbers will be able to get some dialog going with the park managers to deal with this issue, reopen the boulder, and mitigate climber impact in the future.

Day Use Pass and reservations required.

Reserve through the park or Hueco Rock Ranch.

Be sure to hike out the way you came in, it is more of a pain but if you don't you are on land that requires a guide. If you go to ground level and head either left or right, this is restricted access that requires a guide. So don't be lazy and take the easy way out, hike out the way you came in.

DO NOT even think about going down to ground level on this side of North Mountain as your actions could get the park closed to everyone.

According to recent conversations with SA Park Police, it is OK to climb here and access the wall via the creek bed. Long term access once it becomes an official greenway is still TBD. SO, be quiet, courteous, pick up any trash you see etc. No fires, overnight stays etc. Be a GOOD steward so access can continue.

See www.MonsterRock.info for all the latest access info, including fees, annual memberships, hours of operation, and release forms.

Climbing in the canyon is legal, but please maintain a low profile. Please leave no trace to minimize the chances of the park closing to climbers.

I was recently informed, by a friend, that the State Park will be giving tickets to people found climbing in this area. It turns out that these routes are on private property and the land owner has voiced their complaints.

For the time being all climbing at Hueco Point is closed and climbers should keep from climbing here. Its mostly choss anyway. This new development also serves as a reminder that we need to keep a low profile and be sure to practice good Leave No Trace practices and pick up the trash of others when you can.

Jeremy

Access is $10 a day. Pay at the house up front.

Some of the bouldering that can be found here is on public land immediately off the highway; however, the majority of the problems and the routes lie on private land, as does the majority of the rock in the area.

Do not park at the oil well. This has been closed to climbers. Park another mile or two up, then take the 15 minute walk back into the area. The entrance to the area is marked with cairns.

The following is prohibited:

• Climbing and/or rappelling by any means on any man-made structures.

• Technical rock climbing within 1/4 mile of occupied Peregrine Falcon, Bald Eagle, Condor and

Golden Eagle aeries.

• Leaving gear and equipment used in connection with climbing activities unattended. The gear and

equipment shall be removed by the participants before departing the area. This includes but is not
limited to pitons, chocks, bolts and all other climbing aids.

• The use of glue or other aids that are permanent or leave a visible or long lasting residue.

• Climbing within the boundaries of Rainbow Bridge NM.

The above regulations may be found in this document.

Be respectful, no dogs, and leave the canyon when nature calls.

Continued access to Box Canyon is at the pleasure of the private landowner. Please...no dogs, no defecating in canyon. Pack it out. Pack it all out.

The best single book for Maple Canyon Ice Climbs is Jason Stevens' Maple Canyon Ice Climbing, available at area specialty equipment shops (or perhaps from him directly if you contact him on this site). Read it, especially his section on vehicular access issues.

All of the climbs in Maple Canyon absolutely require snow to provide moisture for the melt/freeze which forms these climbs, so snow-covered roads are pretty much a given. Plan to hike or skin up the road. It's a nice warm-up for the climbing, and will alleviate a lot of opportunities for a headache.

It's Fall and the temps at the Creek are crisp and perfect. Its also time to bring the herd in from the high country of the Abajo's. The FOIC got a call from the Dugout Ranch last night reminding us that this is the week when the cattle are driven down the Cottonwood drainage to the Ranch HQ pastures.
As such there are a few requests that we, and the Ranch, have so that all parties can get along without any mishaps. First, if you see the herd coming and your in your car, stop and let them pass around you. Second, the cattle guards and associated gates are bottlenecks for the cattle. The Ranch has requested that climbers park at least 300 feet from the gates. This will help them to get through the tight space, and it might help it so that no cows try and climb over your vehicle (I once saw this in my home town... it was ugly). And third, make sure any dogs are on leashes when down near the road. A dog chasing a cow can end very badly for all parties involved.
Folks, the Dugout Ranch is a slice of the old west and it helps to give the Indian Creek area its character. It is very kind of them to let us know these next few weeks, especially the weekend of the 21-23 of October, is when the cattle are being moved. Historically there have been a few times when cows, cowboys, and climbers have butted heads. That does not need to be the case. We all live together in this beautiful place... lets help them out and let the cattle drive happen as smooth as possible.

Thanks, the FOIC



Check the Friends of Indian Creek website for up-to-date information, as well as the BLM's Monticello Field Office page.

The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.

Utah Open Lands owns the primitive area historically used by climbers camping near Castleton Tower.

Beginning October 1, 2010, Utah Open Lands will require free registration to camp in the primitive camping area. Registration will be accomplished at the Utah Open Lands website.

Important - Stay off the part of the wall that faces the road. If you are looking down at the water, then you shouldn’t be there. Access is touchy. Yes, there are good climbs there, but no, you don’t want to ruin access for everyone and there are just a few hundred other good climbs in the Creek.

The road will not likely be in good shape for vehicular travel very often.

See this note regarding the Ida Gulch road.

Also, be good to the Arches Rangers and they are good to us. No chalk... no new anchors, keep the base clean, park off the road, etc.

Black Rocks is in the Red Cliffs Desert Reserve. No climbing is allowed at Black Rocks from March 15 through June 30 in order to provide an undisturbed environment for Desert Tortoise mating.

In addition, all pets in the Reserve must be kept on a leash at all times.

Crawdad Canyon is privately owned and requires the payment of an entrance fee of $5 per person per day. See website for more info.

Restrictions on route development, off-trail access, and appropriate use are the same as are in the State Park. Pets on leash, don't smash the wildlife and flora, etc.

Check with local climbing shops for access info to this and other Utah Hills Crags. Info at:
Outdoor Outlet (435) 628-3611
Hurst Sports Center (435) 673-6141

This crag is located on land owned by Teck Cominco Mining Company. Please treat the area with the respect a visiting guest should afford private property. Thanks!

Climbing at the Diamond is open with an ok from Teck mining company. Although the crag isnt on private land the road leading up to it is owned by teck mining co. Please be respectful.

See the Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forest Service fee page for more information.

See the Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forest Service fee page for more information.

A well known and marked trailhead has been established starting from Wasatch Blvd. The trail adds some time to the approach, but is fenced off from passing through any private property. Stick to the trail.

Little Cottonwood Access Update

Despite "no trespassing" signs climbers have been observed crossing the creek on the pipe at the traditional (pumphouse) parking for the Pentapitch/Coalpit areas. This pipe crossing is dangerous and a slip could be fatal. This area is privately owned and the SLCA has a positive relationship with the landowner.

The bridge near Lisa falls is the preferred location to cross the creek.

Down-canyon, the bridge leading to the south side near the Buzz bouldering area has been condemned by the Forest Service. Signs have been posted promising fines for tresspassers. We ask that you obey these signs and find an alternate route to your destination.

During the SCLA/Access Fund Adopt-a-Crag Event (Fall 2007), climbers built a new trail from the Little Cottonwood Park-and-Ride. The trail provides easy access to lower canyon bouldering and climbing at the Bongeater and Crescent Crack Buttresses. To avoid traffic problems on the highway and tickets from the Utah Department of Transportation, please use the Park-and-Ride parking to access lower canyon bouldering and climbing. UDOT will ticket cars parked on the south side of the canyon opposite the Secret Garden bouldering area.

Included for historical reasons.

The land on which sits Black Peeler Buttress is owned by Perpetual Storage.

Be respectful of private property.

Little Cottonwood Access Update

Despite "no trespassing" signs climbers have been observed crossing the creek on the pipe at the traditional (pumphouse) parking for the Pentapitch/Coalpit areas. This pipe crossing is dangerous and a slip could be fatal. This area is privately owned and the SLCA has a positive relationship with the landowner.

The bridge near Lisa falls is the preferred location to cross the creek.

Down-canyon, the bridge leading to the south side near the Buzz bouldering area has been condemned by the Forest Service. Signs have been posted promising fines for tresspassers. We ask that you obey these signs and find an alternate route to your destination.

DO NOT use the road, as there are cameras and they will see you. Try to avoid knocking looseness onto the road, as that may jeopardize future access.

The Mount Nebo Wilderness boundary parallels approximately 100-200 yards south of the Santaquin Canyon road from the mouth of the canyon to Tinney Flat Campground. Wilderness rules apply within the wilderness area (nothing mechanized or motorized allowed, including power drills).

Unknown by many people, the land, from at the LDS Church record vaults up to and including the Gate Buttress is owned by the LDS Church. The privately-owned areas include The Fin, The Thumb Area, Green Adjective Gully, Schoolroom Area, and Gate Buttress.

Over the past 40 years there have been several closures of this property to climbing.

Currently, climbers are welcome visitors in part because of Utah's Land Owner Liability Law and the work of local climbers to preserve access.

In 1998 through 2000 this area was quarried and is presently under restoration and re-vegetation. The climbers' trail goes through part of this area. Please stay on the trail so that this area can recover.

Access via Big Cottonwood Canyon leaves little other options other than passing through private property and people's back yards to access the steep north facing hillside up to Powder Ridge Wall or Native American Crag.
The other and longer approach is via Ferguson Canyon.

This is private property. Respect it and consider it a privilege to climb here.

That does not mean access to Lots of Balls Slab or Rodeo Buttress are closed. It just means we have to hike around the clear area surrounding the Grist Mill.

North Creek Canyon is entirely located within the Mount Nebo Wilderness. Wilderness rules apply (nothing mechanized or motorized allowed, including power drills).

The Lone Peak Wilderness boundary begins a short distance into Tank Canyon. Wilderness rules apply.

Trails and rock walls and terraces have been beautifully constructed on this private enclave. The owner, Ira Sachs, however, welcomes responsible and respectful climbers on these walls when there are no private events being held on the property grounds. Please be discreet and ask for permission while passing through the gate.

Many private parties, weddings, and gatherings are held here. When this is the case, out of respect for the people paying for privacy at these events, it is best not to traverse through the property to access the Pharoah's Hat or other climbs in the Pharoah's Glen area. The honor and privaledge to access this area is NOT a right, and certainly will be revoked if abused.

Access to the north face crosses private property which can be avoided via some serious bush whacking.

Due to the construction of a new home and a huge gate (monitored by a surveillance camera), it’s no longer possible to access the traditional “trailhead” and gain the obvious ridgeline leading to Apollo Chute. The new home sits right next to the water tanks that used to act as the landmark for the approach. Following the couloir drainage is unsafe due to loose rock (and rattlesnakes) and bushwhacking from the drainage to the ridgeline is a royal pain.

I fondly remember the days of driving all the way to the Bells Canyon lower reservoir. Now a well known and marked trailhead has been established off of Wasatch Blvd. It adds some time to tha approach, but is fensed off from passing through any private property. Stick to the trail

Access Resort Buttress via the climbers trail which originates across the road from the Grist Mill pullout.

The following cliffs will be closed to climbing beginning March 1, 2012: Angels Landing, Cable Mountain, The Great White Throne (beyond single- and double-pitched climbs), Isaac (in Court of the Patriarchs), The Sentinel, Mountain of the Sun, North Twin Brother, Tunnel Wall, The East Temple, Mount Spry, The Streaked Wall, Mount Kinesava, and the Middle Fork of Taylor Creek. All other cliffs will remain open to climbing.

See www.nps.gov/zion/parknews/2012-climbing-closures-announced.h>>> for more info

Some areas in Bolton maintain a seasonal closure for Peregrine Nesting. Look for postings at trailheads and with www.cragvt.org.

Locals have agreed to allow open access to Green Mountain Rd. into the Quarry. There have been some issues in the past about speeding so drive slow and be respectful to anyone who you meet (many of them like to hike into the quarry and the neighboring trails)

Refer to the Vermont DEC for seasonal closure information.

Once pass under power wires you are technically off Mint Springs territory and the trail meanders through several property areas along the slopes of Buck's Elbow Mountain. The landowners have allowed the trail to the wreckage to be marked with orange surveying tape. Stay close to trail that leads to plane and don't wander too far from plane crash site. Small crag is right next to the plane wreckage.

MLC staff are asking people not to boulder here until further notice. Discussions are taking place in order to establish both bouldering and mountain biking as recognized activities at Mtn. Lake. MLC request a ban on bouldering until a decision has been made.

Parking area and crag located on public land (i.e. Blue Ridge Parkway/Dept. of the Interior), but established routes have not been officially approved by Park Service so tread lightly and leave no trace.

Crag can be accessed from above and below, but both trails are steep and on loose terrain.

Always wear a helmet and announce rockfall. Crag is riddled with poison ivy, ticks, and snakes during the growing season.

The boulders atop 2nd were originaly accessed via the obvious 2nd Mtn Road. Unfortunately, this road is lined with private property and the landowners have had more than enough of hunters and climbers parking in the road at the NFS gate and blocking some of the last driveways. Access from Rocky Run, 100 yards further down the road, is all on National Forest land and is a nice warm-up hike.

down stream from the washed out bridge there are relatively three easy crossings via downed trees which can be seen from the bridge. once past the river walk back upstream via the small trail back to the main road across the bridge.

over the next few miles there are a few hill slides/wash outs which cut the trail and make it nearly impossible to see the other end. early spring of 09 i tied ribbons in direct sight lines in tree limbs.

There is a large Golden Eagle nest on the Main Wall, there has been talk about seasonal closure,as the Golden Eagles require large undisturbed area. There has also been mention of an uninhabited nest for nearly 5 years.

Washington Climbers Coalition's permittee status under the landowner's easement with Washington State DNR has been revoked due to liability concerns and increased traffic. Vehicular access beyond the gate is currently not allowed. Gold Bar is still open to foot traffic. WCC and Access Fund are actively working with the landowner and DNR to find a solution. Stay posted at www.washingtonclimbers.org.

Do not park directly across from mile marker 33 as stated in the guidebook. Just west of the mile marker is a better parking spot which lends to afternoon shade and only adds a few dozen meters of approach. There are private property signs but the land owners in the area expressed concern only with illegal activity and messes; pack out what you pack in and try to leave no trace.

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A Northwest Forest Pass is required to park at the trailhead. In addition, during the winter you can only park at the highest lot if you have an Alpental skiing tag on your car. You will have to park at a lower lot and walk up, if you don't have the tag.

The property was recently acquired by the Dishman Hills Natural Area Association for public recreation. Access via Stevens Creek Road is currently not open but plans are in place to open access by September 19, 2009.

The lower Tieton crags (Royal Columns and the Bend) are closed for raptor nesting beginning February 1 each year. Depending on nest location and success, the closure can be lifted as early as April or as late as July.

Details at www.washingtonclimbers.org/Climbing/tieton.htm

See washingtonclimbers.org/Climbing/goldbar.htm for current access details. You can join Washington Climbers Coalition for free (if you're a cheapskate!) or as part of an Access Fund membership. WCC membership gets you, among other things, a sticker and the combination to the lock on the gate at Reiter Road.

Please don't cheat. If you share the combination with non WCC members, you jeopardize access. If you drive in without a WCC sticker and a Discover Pass, you jeopardize access. And so on.

Manke owns the land below the wall and has done climbers a HUGE favor by granting climbers and boulderers a legal easement to go past the DNR gate at Reiter Road. Please don't take this one for granted.

The cliff band is on private property and has recently changed hands, which created some potential access issues. There are a number of "No Trespassing" signs on the land.

The owner of the property is alright with climbers being there. However, the "No Trespassing" signs will stay up, and are only there to "protect himself."

The landowner has also said that he is very pleased with what he's found out about the climbers and the etiquette of the area. He researched it online and found that we've always been very respectful of our privilege to climb there and that we value that privilege greatly.

With that being said, Bozoo is fair game for climbing. AS ALWAYS: BE RESPECTFUL OF THE PROPERTY AND THE AREA. NOT DOING SO COULD RESULT IN ITS PERMANENT CLOSURE.

Access. Nelson Rocks used to operate under the name Nelson Rocks Preserve, which was ran by the Hammett's until a few years ago, upon which time it was bought by Camp Horizons in Harrisonburg Virginia. Therefore, as of right now, until access issues are figured out, Nelson Rocks Outdoor center, is technically closed to unguided climbing, currently we are working out access issues for the area, and i will update them as i am informed.

The access into South Nutall has been ill defined for years. I am not sure of the best way in at the present time. Check with local sources for the most current information.

Area is known to be private property but climbers have typically been welcome as long as they respect the place. There are no posted signs blocking access that I've seen.

Any climbing done here is technically trespassing. I am posting it for history sakes and those undeterred by legal ramifications. Climb at your own legal risk.

Note that this area is not on Gov Dodge land, it's on private property.

Please note that most if not all of the bouldering areas at Rib have now been closed to climbing/bouldering as they now have a State Natural Area distinction. Contact the park for more information.

Climbing is allowed on weekdays when the park is open; however, climbing is NOT allowed on Friday and Sunday after 12 noon. Climbing is not allowed at all on Saturday.

YOU MUST get the landowner's permission to climb Quarry Monster. Dennis lives in the last trailer on the road heading into the quarry.

Ask the visitor center for permission to climb this statue!

The land surrounding the crags is a mix of Forest Service and private inholdings. Several of the minor roads lead to private summer cabins, some of which are quite close to the cliffs.

The main roads are all on public property, but don't drive down anything resembling a driveway or leading to a residence. Maintain a low profile when climbing here. Keep dogs in control or consider not bringing them out here. Camp well away from any cabins, watch your campfire carefully, and pack out all trash! The cliffs and access are all on public land and legit, but the proximity to private holdings requires sensitivity and best behavior. Be good stewards to this special area and we'll all enjoy it for years to come!

Devils Tower National Monument has temporarily closed climbing routes along the northeast face of Devils Tower beginning April 26th in order to protect Prairie Falcon (Falco mexicanus) possible nesting sites. This closure is an annual event established under the monument's 1995 Climbing Management Plan with authority from the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. On the northeast face, routes between and including “Belle Fourche Buttress” and “Maid in the Shaid” (routes #68 to #93), as well as the “North Face” rappel route, will be closed. All pitches terminating at the “Teacher’s Lounge” will remain open.

NPS resource managers will continue to survey the closed area to determine the presence or absence of nesting prairie falcons. Climbing routes without nesting falcons will be reopened by May 15th. Areas with falcon nests will remain closed until young falcons fledge, generally between July 15 and August 1. Closure areas may be change based on the location of nesting pairs.

Contact(s): Nancy Stimson
Phone number: 307-467-5283
Date: April 26, 2012

Grand Teton National Park Superintendent Mary Gibson Scott announced that beginning Friday, June 24, Baxter’s Pinnacle and its southwest descent gully are closed due to a peregrine falcon aerie. Baxter’s Pinnacle is a popular climbing route in Cascade Canyon. This closure is in effect to protect both climbers and the falcons.

Read More:
gtnpnews.blogspot.com/2011/06/baxters-pinnacle-and-southwest>>>

A pair of Peregrines have nested in various spots a couple hundred feet up the south face over the last few years. Do not climb routes adjacent to their nesting sites until mid-summer when they've left the nest. They will become agressive if they feel you're encroaching upon the nest!
Consider climbing elsewhere in the early summer, or on the West Prow and the Taurine Corridor.

Sometimes such landowners will let you walk over portions of their land especially if you are not fishing or hunting. In the case of this land no one lives within miles to ask permission so plan your trip accordingly. You can get land owner addresses from the Albany County Courthouse.

The Gibbs Canyon Ranch foreman is your contact. Pay the trespassing fee to him and you can climb it. I do not know how much the fee is. The ranch house is about 0.1 mile NE of this rock after going through the red gated 2-track that is just south and east of the rock. The ranch house is visible on the detailed Google photo of this area.

The Duck Creek hiking trail passes over these 2 sub-quarters. The Sherard-Nixon families permit hiking only over this land. NO hunting, fishing, fires or camping while on this land. Note: The 300 ft cone like rock just east of the confluence is on state land.

Ranch foreman Mr.Gabby lives down Ashley Creek

The SW of the NE of sec 12 has a retreat cabin and is private. Stay south of their fence lines and out of the 40 acre parcel.

Bring a good map, DO NOT TRESSPASS (land owners might shoot at you).

The climbing is entirely on the Forest Service ownership of Sec 22. You have to cross as little as 600 ft of land owned by the Wagon Hound Ranch (15 air miles SW of Douglas, WY)on the Poison Lake Rd off the Esterbrook Rd which heads south of Douglas, WY. You can seek permission by contacting the Wagon Hound Ranch Foreman currently, Kenny Taylor at 307 358 5439 or ktaylor@wagonhound.com . He may let you notify him in the future by simply sending an email when you are going. Include time, date, where you are parking, vehicle color make and model and license #.

I've never had issues on this boulder. But owner may or may not want climbers on this boulder. I have not been able to contact this land owner.

If you can find owners ask for permission, otherwise, be careful and don't park in obvious places

String of fences, make sure you're careful with parking

For respect of the local ranchers, always close the gates after passing through. Approach from the Nolan Pocket side is usually not restricted but there are closures for grazing leases on the Lankin Gap side from March-June. Be polite and non-confrontive to ranchers.

Climbers may be fined and have their equipment (including car) confiscated and have to go court on the Reservation if caught.