area restrictions & closures

In order to bring you the most up to date information, the following areas and restrictions database is a crowd-sourcing effort between the Access Fund and Mountain Project. If you have suggested changes or other access issues to report, please let us know.
 

* In Progress   more 
Banburries 
Banburries: Approach to top use old fence as handrail.
Park at Boyd Park and head up river on right hand trail and take the first left and then follow for 200-250 yards to large cliff on right side of trail.
Blowing Rock Preserve 
Blowing Rock Preserve: Park has controlled access and $2 per person
Open daily from 9 am – 4:30 pm, except for major holidays. Daily beach access: $2 adults, $1 members, children 12 and under are free.
Mississippi 
Catahoula Boulderfield: Private land-
Due to the limited access, directions to the area are not listed. The map is a general indication of the area
Alabama   Jamestown, Palisades Park, more 
Home Crag Boulders a.k.a. Sherriff Boulders 
Home Crag Boulders a.k.a. Sherriff Boulders: Restricted
Only a few are allowed for now.
Jamestown 
Jamestown: Please respect surrounding private property.
Though the Jamestown crag is owned by the Southeastern Climbers Coalition, access to the cliff passes through privately-owned land. The landowners in the valley have been gracious enough to grant this right-of-way, so the SCC asks that all climbers be respectful of these property owners' privacy.

Additionally, the land above the cliffline as well as the land past the end of the SCC property is owned by private landowners, many of whom are hostile to climbers. Do not top out on the cliff under any circumstances. Do not climb in areas that are plainly marked off limits, and do not go past the sign at the end of the SCC property (about where the route Cinnamon Girl is located).

There is no camping allowed at Jamestown. The nearest camping is in DeSoto State Park near Fort Payne.
Yellow Bluff 
Yellow Bluff: Don't trespass outside SCC boundaries
The SCC owns only the right-hand section of Yellow Bluff. The end of this section is marked with a wooden "no trespassing" sign; do not climb or hike past this boundary, as it could jeopardize efforts to open more cliffline in the future. Also, do not top out on any climb at Yellow Bluff as this is private property.
MORE 
Desoto State Park: Closed.
High Rocks, Peaks: Closed.
I-59 Cliffs: Open, with restrictions.
Noccalula Falls: Closed.
Painted Bluff: Closed.
Peter's Point: Closed.
Red Rocks: Status unknown.
Rockwood Crags: Status Unknown.
Shades Rest Bluffs: Closed.
Tallassee Rocks, Boulder Falls: Closed.
Citadel: Closed.
Weatherly Subdivision: Status Unknown.
Yellow Creek Falls: Closed
Bount Mountain: Closed.
Alaska   Anchorage & South Central Ice Climbing , Denali National Park, more 
Anchorage & South Central Alaska  
Eklutna Canyon: The Eklutna Canyon drainage is open to climbing but is on private property belonging to Ekultna Incorporated.
Please leave no trace and keep a low profile to ensure further climbing access.
Independence Mine Bouldering and Climbing: Private property with public access. Be mindful to keep climbing accessible!!
Most bouldering is on private property, but access is allowed. Be respectful of the landowners, who run the still active mine. Minimize moss removal, to just the lip for cleaning. Do not shave the top of the boulders, so to speak. Stick to established trails when possible
Matanuska Glacier: Private Property
The first few miles of the Matanuska glacier are on private property. Please respect the rules of the Glacier Resort so everyone can enjoy access. They are very nice people so you will have no problems at all. www.matanuskaglacier.com
Hatcher Pass: Archangel Valley Bridge Closed
In the summer of 2014, the bridge that crosses the river just before Reed Lakes was closed due to structural problems. This bridge will remain closed until further notice. This adds a longer approach to the climbs beyond Reed Lakes.
Independence Crag: Private property with public access. Be mindful to keep climbing accessible!!
While the access to this area is public, please stay on existing trails when heading to this area, land owners in the upper valley are concerned about the formation for spider paths. There have also been occasional run ins with rangers.
Interior Alaska/Alaska Range 
Denali National Park: Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park!
Kenai Peninsula 
Resurrection Bay Area: Remote, Harsh, many protected areas
Harbor seals and stellar sea-lions haul out on many interesting features. There are rookeries and other bird areas that should be avoided both ethically and to avoid being caked in poop.
Crescent Moon: Tide dependent
Make sure to check when the tide goes out before venturing out to climb.
Southeastern Alaska/Coastal Range 
Downtown Juneau - Mount Maria: Last I knew there were no access issues but that was 3 years ago.
Arizona   Cochise Stronghold, Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalina Mountains), more 
Central Arizona 
Superstition Mountains: PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS!
In the early '90's the USFS banned all placement of bolts in the Superstition Wilderness. This unfortunately includes replacement of existing bolts. Violating this ban may result in climbing restrictions on this beautiful area. Please think twice and go bolt somewhere else.
Granite Mountain: Falcon closures.
Granite Mountain is closed between early February and mid-July for peregrine falcon nesting!

More info:
www.fs.fed.us/r3/prescott/news/2009/01-22-2009-area-closures>>>
McDowell Mountains: Access:
For the moment, access to this area by climbers should be from a temporary trailhead/parking area that is located near the old Morrell's Wall Parking Lot area. From there, the new Tom's Thumb Trail leads up toward Morrells Wall, Gardeners Wall and on to Tom's Thumb. Please look for, and use designated climber access trails.
Granite Dells/Watson Lake Dells: Partially Closed.
The Mine Area: Potential Access Issue: Resolution Copper Company
Please watch for information and postings with updated access information at the Queen Creek
Climber's Coalition.

www.friendsofqueencreek.com/
Homestead: Portions of the approach and cliffs of this area are on private land.
Please drive, camp, and climb in a low-impact manner to prevent losing access.
Tam O'Shanter: Please do not cross private land to reach main crag.
From John Sherman 4/27/07: At present encouraging people to cross the landowner's property without permission reflects poorly on climbers in general. More importantly, it threatens negotiations to acquire privately owned parcels that include some of the best bouldering at Tamo as well as the tallest cliffs at Tamo, the bulk of the high end sportclimbing and a number of fine trad prospects as well. Climbers who wish to approach Tamo legally can hike in from the Kearny OHV trail system to the west - a high clearance 4x4 will shorten the hike.
Thumb Butte: Falcon Closures from early February until mid-July.
Please contact the Prescott National Forest office for details. All climbing is closed on Thumb Butte to allow for Peregrine nesting during this time.

More info:
www.fs.fed.us/r3/prescott/news/2009/01-22-2009-area-closures>>>
South Face: Falcon Closures from early February until mid-July.
Please contact the Prescott National Forest office for details. All climbing is closed on Thumb Butte to allow for Peregrine nesting during this time.
Northeast Face: Peregrine falcon closures from February through July.
Please contact Prescott National Forest office for details.
Cactus Flower West: Climbing not allowed in this area of Pinnacle Peak Park!
This area has been deemed off limits for climbing since the park was reopened a few years ago.
Reata Pass West: AREA IS CLOSED, Historical ref only
It now has become a development.
Lower East Wall: AREA IS CLOSED ZERO ACCESS
Here for historical ref only.
Windy Walks: All climbing access is closed
aka "Troon Mountain". Section for historical ref only.
The Cone: Tonto National Forest
South Mountain: Phoenix South Mountain Park & Preserve
City Facility, therefore special consideration. phoenix.gov/PARKS/hikemain.html
Flora st.: Possibly closed.
Be sensitive of the house up hill and around one of the boulders. as Prescotts homlessness rises I have seen shanties back in the boulders so watch out. i have also seen used needles on the ground, what ever that means
Outfrumunders: peregrine nesting
During part of the year you are not supposed to climb here, because the peregrine need a undisturbed flight path. There are other places to climb during this time so it probably should be respected.
Supercrack and The Corridor: Please respect the privacy of the homes near this area.
Oak Flat Bouldering: Copper mining
A copper mining company is doing a lot of mining in the Oak Flat area. Many people have put forth efforts to save the area from complete destruction and thus far it has worked.
Owls Head: Closed
After the San Tan Park opened the access was cut off. Please Call the Maricopa County Parks and let them know we want climbing access to the park. Contact them:
San Tan Mountain Regional Park
6533 West Phillips Road
Queen Creek Arizona 85142
480-655-5554
santanpark@mail.maricopa.gov
Sunday School Wall (Left): This wall has pretty much been ruled off limits...
Not sure which legal entity did so (ADOT?), but this wall, being smack on highway 60, was ruled off limits to climbing a number of years back.
Dog Leg Area: Closed half of the year
Thumb Butte is closed for half of the year for peregrine falcon nesting. Closure is from February to July each year.
Northern Arizona 
The Overlook: Climbing restricted due to tourist safety
ACCESS NOTE: Please note that the forest service has restricted climbing for any routes past the area of Red Wagon (just left of the Trinity Cracks) due to tourist safety. Local access groups are working to get this restriction lifted.
Navajolands: Closed.
It is presently illigal to climb on the Navajo Indian Reservation. These climbs are listed here for historical purposes only.
Canyon De Chelly National Monument: It is illegal at the present time to climb in Canyon de Chelly or elsewhere on the Navajo Indian Reservation
Long Canyon: Please take care on the approach not to stray into the resort.
Hackberry Dome: Current Grazing Lease and flagstone quarrying operation
Area is mixed private and BLM Grazing Allotment. Please tread lightly.
Canyon Diablo: Reservation land just south and then north of RR bridge
Navajo Reservation land just south and then north of railroad bridge. Everything else is Gov. land.
Marble Canyon: Southeast rim on Navajo Rez
No climbing on Southeast Rim without permission from Navajo Nation.
The Raging Boner: On Navajo Rez
Do not climb without permission from Navajo Nation.
Southern Arizona 
Baboquivari Peak: Caution: Human and Drug Trafficking
Traffic from drug smuggling and illegal immigration is high in this area. Exercise caution. US Border Patrol recommends avoiding this area completely after dark.
Cochise Stronghold: Closures in effect March 1 - June 30: Rockfellow Group and Cochise Dome (WML Dome)
Effective this date and until further notice, Special Closure Order 05-189, dated March 18, 2002, is hereby amended as follows:
All persons are permitted access into the “Squaretop Area, which includes all existing rock climbing sites and/or domes (i.e. Squaretop and Lower Squaretop), Dragoon Mountains in Township 17 South, Range 23 East, the East ½ of the Northeast ¼ of Section 27 and the Northeast ¼ of the Southeast ¼ of Section 27.

All persons are permitted access into or through Rockfellow Dome Park, Dragoon Mountains (Township 17, Range 23 East, West ½ Section 26) except as follows:

Unless exempt with a permit specifically authorizing the prohibited activity, no persons may be upon any part of Rockfellow Dome Complex and/or Cochise Dome (aka What’s My Line Dome) by rock climbing or any other means of access, annually from March 1st through June 30th; and/or

Unless exempt with a permit specifically authorizing the prohibited activity, no overnight camping is permitted within Rockfellow Dome Park (Township 17, Range 23 East, West ½ Section 26) annually from March 1st through June 30th.
Mendoza Canyon (aka Coyote Domes): Access is via PRIVATE land and may be CLOSED!
The access for Mendoza Canyon is via the good graces of the owner of the King Anvil Ranch you pass through to get to the canyon.

READ THIS DOCUMENT AND OBEY!
www.concernedclimbers.com/Mendoza_Info_3_13_14.pdf

Update from Jeff Mayhew 3.12.14:

Extended Access Info


Matt Walton from the AZ Game and Fish Dept. advised me that extended access to Mendoza Canyon will be allowed to hikers and climbers through a pilot project again this year. The normal closure begins March 1st and runs until September 1st. From March 1st thru April 30th you can contact Matt at 520-400-4022 or at mwalton@azgfd.gov to apply for access. You must have a valid AZ State Land Permit and apply with Matt 10 days to 2 weeks in advance.

You will then be given the combination to the gates on King's Anvil Ranch that lead to Mendoza Canyon. These combinations will be changed every week or 2. Consecutive days of access may be allowed, but overnight camping will not be allowed.

Matt asks that we NOT approach the ranchers about access during this period. All questions should be directed to Matt.


Update from Charles Vernon (12.6.10):
We ran into John King's daughter herding cows yesterday, on the way into the canyon. She was very nice, and we talked to her for a little while. She believes that the missing traps that led to loss of access last year were a result of hikers (climbers? hunters?) whose dogs got caught in the traps, leading to the dog owners taking or destroying the traps to free their dogs.

Regardless of what exactly happened, she made it clear that dogs are not welcome. It sounds as though just heading out there with dogs, without more, could be enough to cause them to rethink access. So please, do not bring dogs to Mendoza!
Rappel Rock: Closed to climbing, March 15 - June 30
This area is closed March 15 - June 30 for nesting pregerine falcons.
Wheeler Wall: Closed to climbing, March 15 - June 30
This area is closed from March 15 - June 30 for nesting peregrine falcons.
Cochise Dome (What's My Line Dome): Closed to climbing, March 1 - June 30
Effective this date and until further notice, Special Closure Order 05-189, dated March 18, 2002, is hereby amended as follows:
All persons are permitted access into the “Squaretop Area, which includes all existing rock climbing sites and/or domes (i.e. Squaretop and Lower Squaretop), Dragoon Mountains in Township 17 South, Range 23 East, the East ½ of the Northeast ¼ of Section 27 and the Northeast ¼ of the Southeast ¼ of Section 27.

All persons are permitted access into or through Rockfellow Dome Park, Dragoon Mountains (Township 17, Range 23 East, West ½ Section 26) except as follows:

Unless exempt with a permit specifically authorizing the prohibited activity, no persons may be upon any part of Rockfellow Dome Complex and/or Cochise Dome (aka What’s My Line Dome) by rock climbing or any other means of access, annually from March 1st through June 30th; and/or

Unless exempt with a permit specifically authorizing the prohibited activity, no overnight camping is permitted within Rockfellow Dome Park (Township 17, Range 23 East, West ½ Section 26) annually from March 1st through June 30th.

Douglas Ranger District Tel: 520.364.6816.
Barnum Rock: Closed to climbing, Feb 1 - Aug 31
This area is closed between February 1 and August 31 for nesting peregrine falcons.
Gumby Wall: Closed to climbing, Feb 1 - Aug 31
This area is closed between February 1 and August 31 for nesting peregrine falcons.
The Ravens: Closed to climbing, March 15 - June 30
This area is closed from March 15 - June 30 for nesting peregrine falcons.
Kitt Peak: Road CLOSED 4pm-9am
The gate closes promptly at 4pm. If you're lucky, you'll have until 4:01pm. Don't get locked-in!
Elephant Dome: There is no public access road provided by the BLM to the Coyote Mountains Wilderness Area.
There is no public access road provided by the BLM to the Coyote Mountains Wilderness Area. This wilderness is surrounded by state, reservation, and private land. Permission to drive on an access road through the King Anvil Ranch property is granted by the owner during the months of September through February (access closed March through August). This access road also crosses Arizona State Trust Land. The owner of the King Anvil Ranch and the Arizona Game Fish have provided a sign in station for you to register your visit. Please sign in and sign out at the station. Furthermore the Arizona land managers require that you obtain a recreation permit to drive across Arizona State Trust Land. The application for this permit ($15/year) can be found at:
www.land.state.az.us/programs/natural/rec_permit.pdf
Texas Canyon: some areas are private land, no signage yet
Cave Wall: UPDATE 09/23/11* Warning: Bolt and/or hangers missing. Bolts and/or rock on the far right hand side of this wall may be of questionable integrity. Bolts reportedly pulled on Pali Gap and adjacent routes. Check back for further updates from the FA.
The trail goes through the Girl/Boy Scout and church group areas. Please respect these group areas.
Chiricahua National Monument: Closed to Climbing
Rockfellow Group: Closed from March 1 to June 30
Effective this date and until further notice, Special Closure Order 05-189, dated March 18, 2002, is hereby amended as follows:
All persons are permitted access into the “Squaretop Area, which includes all existing rock climbing sites and/or domes (i.e. Squaretop and Lower Squaretop), Dragoon Mountains in Township 17 South, Range 23 East, the East ½ of the Northeast ¼ of Section 27 and the Northeast ¼ of the Southeast ¼ of Section 27.

All persons are permitted access into or through Rockfellow Dome Park, Dragoon Mountains (Township 17, Range 23 East, West ½ Section 26) except as follows:

Unless exempt with a permit specifically authorizing the prohibited activity, no persons may be upon any part of Rockfellow Dome Complex and/or Cochise Dome (aka What’s My Line Dome) by rock climbing or any other means of access, annually from March 1st through June 30th; and/or

Unless exempt with a permit specifically authorizing the prohibited activity, no overnight camping is permitted within Rockfellow Dome Park (Township 17, Range 23 East, West ½ Section 26) annually from March 1st through June 30th.

Douglas Ranger District Tel: 520.364.6816.
Linda Vista: Restrictions January 1 - April 30
Special Closure Order #05-123 prohibits travel more then 400' off of established trails due to Bighorn Sheep lambing season.
Pontatoc Canyon: Restrictions January 1 - April 30
Special Closure Order #05-123 prohibits travel more then 400' off of established trails due to Bighorn Sheep lambing season.
Pusch Peak: Closed January 1 - April 30
Special Closure Order #05-123 prohibits travel more then 400' off of established trails due to Bighorn Sheep lambing season.
Finger Rock Canyon: Restrictions January 1 - April 30
Special Closure Order #05-123 prohibits travel more then 400' off of established trails due to Bighorn Sheep lambing season.
Alamo Canyon: Closed January 1-April 30
Special Closure Order #05-123 prohibits travel more then 400' off of established trails due to Bighorn Sheep lambing season.
Pusch Ridge: Restrictions January 1 - April 30
Special Closure Order #05-123 prohibits travel more then 400' off of established trails due to Bighorn Sheep lambing season.
8 - Summit Crags: Closed to climbing, March 15-June 30
This area is closed March 15 - June 30 for nesting pregerine falcons.
Tinajas Altas: Permit Required
A permit is required for entry to the Barry M. Goldwater Range and is available, free of charge, from the Marine Corps Air Station, Yuma, Range Management Department (520-341-3402). Just go to the main gate and the friendly MP's will direct you to the proper building.
Tucson Buildering: Buildering is Frowned Upon
Watch out
Five Mile Wall: Subject to the Bighorn Sheep restriction from January 30-April 1, according to Backcountry Rock Climbing in Southern Arizona
MORE 
Angel Wing: Closed.
Campbell Cliff: Closed.
Carefree Rockpile: Closed.
Citadel Sink (Wupatki Nat Monument): Closed.
Elephant's Feet: Closed.
Museum of Northern Arizona: Closed.
Silver Bell Boulders: Closed.
The Bolus (at Camelback Mountain) : Closed.
Troon Mountain (aka Windy Walks) : Closed.
Arkansas   Horseshoe Canyon Ranch, Sam's Throne & Surroundings, more 
Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and Surrounding Areas 
Glass Bowl Boulder: This area is on private land at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch. Access is open to climbers though.
This area is on private land at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch. Access is open to climbers though.
Pilots Knob 
Pilots Knob: Private Property
Both top and bottom areas are on private land. Be respectful!!!
Upper Pilots knob: private property
Lower Pilots knob: Private Property
MORE 
Busby Hollow : Closed.
Goshen : Closed.
Wedington Cliff : Partially Open.
West Fork : Closed.
California   High Sierra, Joshua Tree National Park, more 
Central Coast 
Pinnacles National Monument: Emergency Closure Announced - Resurrection Wall
Emergency Closure for Condor Nesting

The area within the following boundary is closed to public access for the protection of wildlife:

* From the summit of the Goat Rock formation (UTM E660722, N4038501) west following an unnamed ridge to a point due south of the Western Front rock formation (UTM E660328, N4038999)
* From the Western Front rock formation north (UTM E660328, N4038999) and northeast, encompassing the Resurrection Wall formation to a junction with the Juniper Canyon Trail (UTM E660800, N4039401), 1/3 mi from the Juniper Canyon trailhead)
* Along the southern side of the Juniper Canyon Trail to a junction with a ridgeline extending due north from the Goat Rock formation (UTM E660956, N4039214)
* Extending south along the ridgeline to the summit of the Goat Rock formation.

The Resurrection Wall and Western Front formations, and the west face of Goat Rock are closed. The Juniper Canyon trail and the east face of Goat Rock remain open. All current raptor advisory areas remain in effect.

Signage has been posted at strategic locations.

Violation of this emergency closure (36 CFR 1.5(f)) or 16 U.S.C 1531-1543 is punishable by a fine of not more than $500 or imprisonment for not exceeding six months, or both.

Resurrection Wall 2010
Resurrection Wall 2010 <@? echo PostCache::objectEditBar(106760043,"APPROVED","IMAGE", "COMMENT", "edit, move, del, reassign",array(106469372,106469372,106469372),array(105708969,106469372,106745713,106760043),"106469372", "", "" ); ?@>
Cerro Romauldo: Closed.
News as of Jan 2006 - This area is now CLOSED to climbing!
Hollister Peak: Closed, no access.
Chumash Peak: No public access.
Bishop Quarry: Closed, no access.
The quarry is now private land. This area may be in the guidebook, but the relative difficulty in finding the area (no climber trails, no obvious routes) should be an indication: THIS AREA IS OFF LIMITS.
Morro Rock: Closed to climbers.
Conejo Mountain: Open, with restrictions
The original trailhead was closed after someone was electrocuted themselves while playing on the powerlines. Access to the cliff is now gained by parking in a nearby park and hiking through a trailer park. As yet there have been no known incidents as climbers hike through the trailer park however, please be respectful of residents and low key at all times. Please observe any posted no-trespassing signs if they show up.
Upper Foothill (The Hideout): Park near the top of Signal Street.
High Peaks: Raptor Closures!
Like a lot of the Pinnacles area, the High Peaks is subject to raptor closures. These closures affect all of the high peaks. The closures typically begin mid January and continue through to the middle of July. Please take these closures seriously. Our access to the High Peaks depends on our ability to respect these closures. For more info on closures go to the Friends of Pinnacles website (www.pinnacles.org/climbing_info/index.html)
Mugu Slab: This wall is currently closed. The closure is agressively enforced by the CHP.
Westmont College Boulder: On Private Property
To my knowledge, Westmont College doesn't officially condone climbing on this boulder. Conversely, I'm not sure if they officially frown on it. In any case, tread quietly and be considerate.
Matilija Wall: Both known access points involve trespassing
No trespassing sign are posted at the private property used to gain the West Camino Cielo access trail. It is also illegal to trespass on the Matilija Dam.
Little Gotham: Be Respectful
This cliff is on Cal-Trans property, so access is limited to California Highway Patrol discretion. Be respectful of their wishes if they ask that you not climb here.
Ghost Town (a.k.a. windermere): Stay in designated areas
Private Property near these areas so do not stray off path.
Central Sierra 
Table Mountain: Open, with restrictions: private property
Climbing access is open but parts are on private property. Please be respectful of property owners.
Jailhouse Rock: Private property with a public access easement and conservation easement allowing climbing held by the Access Fund. Critical to see current requirements and restrictions.
Jailhouse has been and remains privately owned. The owner has graciously allowed an access easement and conservation easement to let climbers get to and climb at the cliff. Current access is now via the new double gate and gravel road. In the future, a new route may be necessary due to future subdivisions.

For the current gate code and rules, visit www.accessfund.org/jailhouse.

Some critical conditions of the easement we need to comply with include:
  • No dogs on the property
  • Close all gates (typically there are over 200 head of horses on the property), particularly the gate to O'Byrnes Ferry Road
  • No loud music
  • No fires
  • No camping at the cliff, trailhead, or anywhere in the vicinity
  • Access allowed only from sun-up to one hour after sundown
  • No littering

In addition, seasonal raptor closures on a portion of cliff line may be posted on the property and online if there is active raptor nesting.

Our ability to climb here is contingent on our compliance with the conditions of the easement.
Valley Springs Klippe: Private Property
Though no signs specifically mark this as private property, it is clearly pasture for some rancher's herd. An easily scalable fence keeps cows off the highway. For a less conspicuous approach, circle west through the trailer park and hop the low fence and creek.
High Desert 
Deadman's Point: Part of this area lies on private property.
In the past, the land to the east of The Cove was reported as being privately owned.
Stonehenge Boulders: Near Private Property, Use Caution
There are houses on the property just below the east cliffs/ridge. There is also spray paint on rocks near cliff stating "Keep Out".
Chimney Rock: Seasonal Falcon Closure
Chimney rock and all the area within 1/4 mile of it are closed from April through August 15th due to the local peregrine falcon nesting.
Deadman's Boulders: Just east are crags that are on Private Property, Please adhere to posted signs.
Area is close to private property, please obey all postage. If you stay on the West side of Bear Valley Rd your in good shape.
High Sierra 
Mt. Humphreys: permit required for overnight climbs or camping.
Permits available in Lone Pine or Bishop.
Mt. Barnard East Peak (aka Peak 13,680 +): No Longer Restricted Access (Bighorn Sheep Zoological Restrictions lifted)
Though many guidebooks and websites discuss restricted access to this area the Bighorn Sheep Zoological Area - changed designation in 2010 and there are no current restrictions to access the area.
for more info see link below:

www.fs.usda.gov/detail/inyo/news-events/?cid=STELPRDB5201581
Mt Carl Heller and Tulainyo Tower: No Longer Restricted Access (Bighorn Sheep Zoological Restrictions lifted 2010)
Though many guidebooks and websites discuss restricted access to this area the Bighorn Sheep Zoological Area - changed designation in 2010 and there are no current restrictions to access the area.
for more info see link below:

www.fs.usda.gov/detail/inyo/news-events/?cid=STELPRDB5201581
Inland Empire 
Temecula : Private Property
Boulders may be on private property so make sure you have permission to climb.
Riverside Quarry: Open, with restrictions: Park on the street
Do not drive into the Quarry. You will be ticketed $150 for trespassing. Climbing access is open, just park on the street.
Box Springs Mountain Park: Parking listed elsewhere is on private property
Commonly known access for this area is on/through private property. Please carefully read alternative directions listed for accessing Main Wall Left.
Steele Valley: cars cant make it all the way in...the road gets a little rough
Thee Area: private property above the wall
Juniper Flats:
  • ** Main access to this area is through private property, be courteous and don't do anything to draw attention to yourself ***
  • ** There is a church at the base/ start of McIntrye Rd with signs of no trespassing. They do not own all of the land in the area and various other access points to the area, but please be courteous and try to avoid something that would cause a closure of the gate to the main access point of MckIntrye Rd.The main issue in the area is illegal dumping, so just don't show up in a dump truck and your fine. 4wd/Awd is advised if possible for access to the area.
High Voltage Area: Access by driving through private property, please be curious
Owing Homage: Access by driving through private property, please be curious
There is a church at the base/ start of McIntrye Rd with signs of no trespassing. They do not own all of the land and various other access points to the area
Simpson Park: Parking beyond the gate past sundown is prohibited. Gate will be locked with car inside
Joshua Tree National Park 
Joshua Tree National Park: 2 New Important Updates!!
The new 2013 Joshua Tree National Park Compendium has stated that:
1. Vegetation is no longer allowed as an anchor!
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolts are allowed
Towers of Uncertainty: Seasonal Raptor Closures
The rock climbing area known as Towers of Uncertainty is closed to public use due to wildlife activity. The closure is usually in effect from March through June
Rockworks Rock: A portion of the wall is closed due to Indian rock art.
The far right side of this wall is closed due to the presence of Native American rock art.
Slatanic Area: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Seasonal raptor closure for entire Slatanic Area from 2/19/2014 to 6/15/2014.
Shard Boulder: Part of this boulder is closed to climbing
Climbing is not allowed on a portion of this boulder any longer due to it's proximity to the nearby Equinox Marker.
Zombie Woof Rock: Zombie Woof Rock is closed to climbing.
Zombie Woof Rock is now closed to climbing due to native rock art in the vicinity. The NPS has signs alerting climbers to the closure both at the rock and on the approach trail.

Shipwreck Boulder: Permanent Closure
As of Spring 2012, JTNP has mandated a permanent closure to climbing at Shipwreck Boulder
Indian Wave Boulders: Closures exist in this area, please respect the signage.
Many problems and even boulders are closed to climbing due to their proximity to native art and cultural artifacts. Please observe and obey all posted NPS signs.
Indian Cove CG: Occupied Campsite Rule In Effect!
Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
Queen Mountain Bouldering: Day use area
This is a Wilderness Area and open for day use only - no camping is allowed.
Little Hunk - NE Face (Right): A portion of the wall is closed due to Indian rock art.
The route Energy Crisis and the rock for 50' on either side of its are closed to climbing to protect Native American rock art in the vicinity.
Belle Campground : Occupied Campsite Rule In Effect!
Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
Towers of Uncertainty: Check with JT staff regarding nesting closures
This part of the park has been experiencing seasonal nesting closures. The usual duration for this restriction is from March 25 through June.
The Underground Chasm: This area has a checkered history of climber impact.
Please make an effort to keep this area pristine and undisturbed. Pack out all your trash. Dispose of human waste properly (consider packing it out). Don't modify the natural environment. Brush off your chalk.
Los Angeles Basin 
Echo Cliffs: Grotto and Lookout closed
Climbs upstream from "Miss Pacman" and "Gameboy" on river right and upstream of "Xanadu" on river left are closed until further notice as required to protect a sensitive, federally listed plant species. For more information, see: www.nps.gov/samo/upload/PublicNoticeCircleXRanch2010.PDF
The Grotto: Emergency Closure to Protect Sensitive Plant Species
Climbs upstream from "Miss Pacman" and "Gameboy" on river right and upstream of "Xanadu" on river left are closed until April 30, 2011, or further notice as required to protect a sensitive, federally listed plant species. For more information, see: www.nps.gov/samo/upload/PublicNoticeCircleXRanch2010.PDF
Pirate's Cove (aka The Beach or Corona Del Mar): Summer climbing times restricted
Climbing is restricted at the beach until after 5 pm at the height of beach season.
Williamson Rock: Williamson Rock is currently closed to climbing.
Williamson Rock is under a temporary closure to all recreational uses, including climbing, pursuant to a ruling by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service that the area is critical habitat for the endangered yellow-legged mountain frog. Efforts by the non-profit organization Friends of Williamson Rock, in conjunction with the U.S. Forest Service, are underway to regain climbing access to Williamson. For information on the status of these efforts, and to learn how you can help, contact the Friends of Williamson Rock: williamsonrock.org
Century Lake Area: New Access Difficulties
A new fence laced in razor wire has been erected on the far end of the dam where you used to hop over. Skirting around is a trivial matter, but I'm unsure how the message should be interpreted. There are no new signs indicating closures, and you can still hike over from Stumbling Blocks/Ghetto Wall. If anything the fence is going to have more of an effect on the hikers trying to do the loop than the climbers. On the plus side, I've never seen it so empty at this area.
The Lookout: Parking / Private Property
Currently, the parking area on the south side of the sharp left turn at the small housing development is posted with several NO PARKING signs. Better to park in the large turn out on the left ~40 yards west of the turn. Alternately, there is a small turnout 0.25 mi. before the turn where Little Sycamore Canyon Road becomes Yerba Buena Rd.

Unfortunately, parking is not the only issue. The formation closest to the road is currently closed to climbing. The formation has no name, and the closure does NOT affect the whole Lookout, just the southernmost formation. The rangers have ordered signs, but it apparently takes the NPS sometime to produce them, so the area is closed, but not posted. Again, this doesn't affect the whole area, just the southernmost formation nearest Yerba Buena Road.

Contact James Herbaugh, NPS Park Ranger, at James_Herbaugh@nps.gov for additional information.
Crags Rd. Crag's: private homes.
if you could park off pavement then your okay.
Crystal Lake Crag: Road Closures
Route 39 is closed at times due to fire, snowfall, and road damage.
Crystal Lake Boulders: R39 Road Closures
Route 39 is closed from time to time due to fire, snowfall, etc etc.
UCLA: Buildering on University Campus
El Cariso: Access Sensitive
Private property in the area and no established trail. The climbing area is behind a fire station and a forest ranger lives in that community as well. be quiet and do not disturb or be rude. I have talked to many of the fire fighters and home owners, they are easy going so far but lets not ruin it.
Mount Baden Powell: Gates
Be advised, there is a gate a mile or so east of Vincent Gap that sometimes remains closed early in the winter.
Redwood Coast 
Castle Rock: Watch for raptors, if they are there, climb somewhere else
101 Cliff: ??
Foliage hides some of the cliff, but it's hard to be discreet here.
Sacramento Valley/Foothills 
Auburn Cliffs: Auburn Quarry Open Daily 'til Sundown!
Auburn State Recreation Area is now open seven days a week to technical climbing! The area still closes to all activity at dusk, so be sure to leave enough time to return to your car during daylight hours.

CRAGS -- the Sacramento area local Access Fund affiliate -- and the California State Parks worked together through a pilot program of limited access in the popular Auburn Quarry. Its success has led to Auburn being full opened to roped climbing.

www.norcalcrags.org.
Dry Creek Boulders: Military Base, Federal Property
Must have a military or DOD civilian escort to access the base.
San Bernardino Mountains 
Scot Rock: Residential area
The trail starts from a residential area; stay on the pavement until you reach the clearing. Please be quiet and respectful.
Mill Creek Wash Bouldering: River
The river can sometimes be high and hard to cross.
San Diego County 
San Diego County: Current San Diego County Advisories
  • Thanks to ACSD for providing the following updates!

  • Poway Crag's Ramona Wall and Miller Time Wall have a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August 31st annually dur to nesting raptors
  • Glen Cliff has a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August, or if/when it is determined that nesting is not occurring
  • Mt Gower also has a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August, or if/when it is determined that nesting is not occurring
  • In recent years, Gower has been home to seasonally nesting raptors. To avoid human disturbance of nesting activities, advisories may be in effect from around December through August. Check the ACSD and CNF websites for details.
Main Wall: Seasonal Nesting Advisory
Go to www.Alliedclimbers.org for more information on the seasonal nesting advisory for the west side of Corte Madera
Ramona Wall: The Ramona Wall and Miller Time Walls have seasonal closure Dec 15 through August 31
Boulder 13: private property
Two houses pretty close to this boulder, approch from tower one and being discreet will hopefully keep from any problems.
Old Castle: This great North County Crag is located on the boundary of partial lots for sale, private property and public land.
Due to its location Old Castle Crag is around private lots of land primarily old avocado groves. As of now current land managers have no issues with access to this Crag. Respect land owners keep a low profile and most importantly clean up any trash, you pack out what you pack in. Thanks and Enjoy.
MORE 
General: Glenn Cliff and Eagle Canyon: Raptor closure at Eagle Peak and Glenn Cliff (areas not listed in MP.com)
San Francisco Bay 
Beaver Street Wall: Permit Required Sign seems to be premature!
Posted by Justin Driemeyer on Jul 7, 2014: "I called the permit office today and was directed over to James Wheedler who said the sign was put up prematurely. He said they are concerned about protecting the geologic feature in the wake of the growth of climbing as a sport in the last several years so are looking to put some permitting process in place to help do so and suggested one format they are looking into is a self service process - answer some questions online and get a permit you can print. I suggested a basic self-service paper register, like a wilderness permit for day hiking. But since no process is in place yet he said go ahead and climb for the time being."
Sugarloaf Ridge State Park: Sugarloaf is closed!
This may be the first climbing area in the state to close to budget constraints, but it probably won't be the last.
Summit Rock: Reopened! Permit Required (see details)
As of Oct 4, Summit Rock at Sanborn County Park is open to climbing seasonally on weekends under a free permit system limiting access to 35 people a day, subject to the results of an ongoing peregrine/climber monitoring program. Climbers interested in climbing there can call the Parks Department reservation line at 408-355-2201, give their contact information, and receive the free permit immediately by email.Please remember to close all gates and observe all posted signs.
Chimney Rocks: private
Aquarian Valley: Stay on marked/established trails to avoid the private homes to the SE. They have been known to be mean to climbers.
San Jacinto Mountains 
The Tramway: Remember to fill out a wilderness permit, even if climbing for the day!
Permits can be acquired at the ranger station on the way to the boulders from the upper Tramway station.
Mt. San Jacinto: Do not trespass on DWA property!
Follow the "legal" access map as closely as possible. Map here - www.summitpost.org/snow-creek-in-the-summer-and-absolutely-l>>>
Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP 
Kings Canyon: National Park Regulations and Fees
To keep peace and tranquility in Kings Canyon, climbers should respect park service regulations. Let us work for a more respectful and cooperative relationship between the climbing community and the park service as the climbing continues to be developed. Visitors are limited to camping 14 days within park service boundary. Electric drilling should not be utilized beyond the wilderness boundary line at 5,000 ft elevation. Keep impact of new routes to a minimum. Pick up trash and keep food protected from bears.

Access to Kings Canyon National Park will cost $20 seven day pass, $30 annual pass, or $80 annual National Parks Pass. There are 4 campgrounds within park boundaries that will cost $18/night. Rare is the day one needs reservations and spots along the river are plentiful. There are also limited amounts of free camping along the river within National Forest in the lower end of the valley. Cedar Grove has no gas station but can provide groceries, restaurant, and showers.

Slickrock Bouldering Area: cannot climb here in early summer. the boulders are covered by the lake.
The lake covers most of these boulders during the early summer (anywhere from May-Aug). Best time to visit is fall/winter.
Chimney Rocks: Perigrine Falcon Closures
This area is often closed from springtime until early August for nesting. Contact the Hume Lake ranger district of the Sequoia National Forest for seasonal closures. 559-338-2251
Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP: Always check road conditions and peregrine closures
Painted Lady: In a National Park
Permits needed for overnight camping
Shasta Cascade 
8-Mile Boulders: NO bolting without group consent
Please, no bolting without group consent. Your 'route' might be a highball problem.
No trash. No graffitti. No chipping or glueing.
Iron Gate Crags: Each crag has its own access details
Some are on Private Property, some are open to use. Because few climb here, if you keep a low profile its highly unlikely you'll threaten access. I've always been cordial to those I've run into, knocked on doors when ownership was apparent and never had issue with climbing at these crags.
Sierra Eastside 
Trenchtown Rock: Entrance fee and seasonal closure
Mandatory shuttle 7am-7pm and entrance fee. Open ~June-~October.
Sabrina Basin Bouldering: Permit required for overnight camping.
This is a wilderness area. Please use "leave no trace" practices.
Indian Wells Canyon: Designated Wilderness Areas limit vehicular access
Since the last guidebook to include this area was published, much of the land has been designated as wilderness and crags that used to be virtual drive-ups now involve a long hike to approach. These include Heller Rocks and Easter Wall on Owens Ridge.
Knowledge Boulders: Located at a the Community College
Please be respectful of students and faculty at this area.
Aspen boulders: Private road please drive slow and be respectful to home owners
Cliff Notes Cliff: Endangered Bighorn Sheep Habitat
Gladys Lake : Road to Agnew Meadows is closed in the winter
Must skin and downhill ski into the climbing area during ice season
Tahoe Vicinity 
Lover's Leap: Seasonal Raptor Closure
Peregrine Falcons nest seasonally at Lover's Leap. During the closure period, please avoid the areas displayed on the map posted below. A closure is in place at the center of the wall starting April 1 to September 30. A detailed listing of closed routes and any changes in the information regarding the peregrine falcons will be posted on the Eldorado National Forest website www.fs.usda.gov/eldorado. If you require addition information contact the Eldorado National Forest at 530-622-5061.

Here's a map from 2009, but the same route closures generally apply every year (true through 2016 according to the latest order).
2009 Closure Map
2009 Closure Map <@? echo PostCache::objectEditBar(106461853,"APPROVED","IMAGE", "COMMENT", "edit, move, del, reassign",array(105990845,10574,106393781),array(105708955,105708959,105798291,105733959,106461853),"106393781", "", "" ); ?@>
Phantom Spires: Dirt road winter closures
Eldorado National Forest closes dirt roads during wet conditions between November and May. The main office number 530-622-5061 might help you get current conditions, which aren't always updated on the website. www.fs.usda.gov/detail/eldorado/alerts-notices/?cid=stelprdb>>> When the road is closed, simply park on a pullout of Wrights Lake Road and walk the extra mile.
Road Cut, The: 2014 nesting closure
Totem Pile and the climbs right of it are closed for nesting falcons, per a sign posted by The Access Fund and that I saw on 4/21/14. The falcons are there, please respect the closure.
Black Wall: Raptor Nesting
On June 16, 2012, a nest with chicks was noticed on the ledge at the end of the second pitch of Touch and Go. Please take care to avoid disturbing the nest and avoid climbing routes from Touch and Go south to the left side of the Cannibal Gully (such as Inner Recess, Rambo Crack, and Bourbon Street) until the chicks fledge. Fledging can happen early, but typical seasonal closures extend until September 1st or later.
Rainbow: Open, with restrictions: private property
Do not trespass across the private property which is west of the crag. Presently, the access policies are up in the air and failure to respect private property could inhibit future access. To avoid trespassing on private property, stay along the base of the crag.
Railroad Rock Crag: Please keep a low profile.
No access issues that I know of to date, but due to it's proximity to the RR tracks and CalTrans, please keep a low profile to stave off any potential access issues.
Getaways: Private property: CLOSED
Trespassers will be prosecuted.
The Gorge: Flood Danger
WARNING! As the sign posted at the parking lot reminds you, this area is subject to sudden and severe flooding, especially in run off times (spring and winter). Most of the climbing routes in the gorge are in the potential flooding areas, as walls of the gorge sit below several LARGE floodgates from Lake Spaulding. These gates may open at any time, and as the sign in the parking area states, there may or may not be warning. Being in the gorge when the gates open would probably mean death, and being in the other climbing areas will mean that your exit is blocked until flood waters reside. Read all posted signs in the parking area, and also beware that these may not be updated.
Yosemite National Park 
Yosemite National Park: Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page for current information.
Half Dome: Half Dome, South Face Closure
Yearly raptor closures typically begin March 1 and remain in effect until August 1, or until further notice.

As of March 1, 2012: Closure includes all routes from "Autobahn" east to and including "South Face Route."

For more info, go to:

www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/climbingclosures.htm
Glacier Point Apron: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Yearly raptor closures typically begin March 1 and remain in effect until August 1, or until further notice.

East of Glacier Point Apron. Closure includes all routes above 200 feet from the base of the cliff east of Glacier Point Apron including "A Mother's Lament" to the Illilouette Gorge.
Half Dome, South Face - Overlooking Little Yosemite Valley. Closure includes all routes from "Autobahn" east to and including "South Face Route."

For more info, go to:

www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/climbingclosures.htm
The Rostrum: 2014 Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection
Closure includes "Super Nova" and extends west to all climbing routes on all sides of the Rostrum. The "Jungle Gym" area remains open. Slack-lining is prohibited at the summit and the top of the adjacent cliff.

Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page for current information.
Arch Rock: 2014 Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection
Closure includes all routes from "Anticipation" east to "Grokin," Arch Rock Pinnacle, and above Arch Rock's main wall, from "Cross Country Crack" east to but not including "Juliette's Flake." All routes from "Pass or Fail" west including "Now',' Omakara" and "Later'' remain open.

Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page for current information.
Medlicott Dome: 2014 Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection
Closure includes all routes between and including "Shambles" to "Bogey Meets Mr. Porcupine."

Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page for current information.
Yosemite Point: 2014 Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection
Closure includes all routes between and including "Yosemite Point Buttress" and Yosemite Point Southwest Face, "Min-Ne-Ah." At the base, the first 5 pitches remain open.

Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page for current information.
Murphy Creek: stream crossing
There is a small stream that may be difficult to cross during the early spring months.
Hetch Hetchy: Curfew applies after sunset, unless you have an overnight car permit, and 2014 Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection
Closed area includes Wapama Cliff (immediately west of Wapama Falls).

Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page for current information.
MORE 
Hetch Hetchy, Wapama Cliff: Seasonal Raptor Closure
MORE 
San Bernadino County - Stoddard Ridge, Granite Mountains: Partially open.
Singing Hills, Crest : Possibly closed.
Temecula Domes, Rainbow Valley : Partially open.
Colorado   Alpine Rock, Boulder Canyon, more 
Alpine Rock 
RMNP Bouldering Areas: Fragile Alpine Area
This is a fragile alpine bouldering area and following Leave No Trace principles is important. Never stash pads. Do not alter landings, chip or glue holds, or remove or alter vegetation. Walk on hard surfaces such as boulders or established trails. Store your gear on boulders instead of dirt or vegetation. Clean up spilled chalk and tick marks and brush holds. Keep your presence low key and unobtrusive. Pack out everything you brought and anything else that shouldn't have been left there. RMNP rangers are very aware of the impact that bouldering has on this environment.
Mt. Evans Bouldering: The majority of these boulders are located within the Mt Evans Wilderness Area, which is regulated & patrolled by the US Forest Service. Climber
The majority of these boulders are located within the Mt. Evans Wilderness Area, which is regulated & patrolled by the US Forest Service. Climbers should be on their best behavior, practice Leave No Trace, and please abide by these requirements:

- Approach Areas A, B, & C via the Chicago Lakes trail (from Echo Lake).

- Wilderness permits are required for all visitors to any federal Wilderness area. Permits are free and self-issued. A kiosk is located at the point where the Chicago Lakes Trail departs from the reservoir, at the entrance to the Wilderness area.

- Group size: travel in federal Wilderness areas is limited to groups of 15 people or less. If you find yourself in an area, say around the Dali Boulder, where there are more than 15 people, please disperse. There are plenty of excellent boulders elsewhere.

- Minimize creation of social trails. None of the trails surrounding the bouldering area are officially maintained by the USFS. Ample access trails currently exist, please stay on the existing trails, and do not create any more trails.

- Do not destroy vegetation. This is a fragile alpine environment, with a short growing season. It can take vegetation decades to recover from damage. Place crash pads judiciously, and keep brushing to a minimum. Before adding new lines, considered the damage that may be caused by additional foot traffic, pad placement, etc.

- Chalk is un-sightly to non-climbers. Please avoid chalking up boulder problems that are visible from the Chicago Lakes Trail, and in general, keep chalk use to a minimum. Brush all tick marks off after every sesssion. Use containers that prevent chalk spills. If you do spill your chalk, clean it up.

- Stashing crash pads is expressly forbidden by the USFS. Any pads found by USFS personnel will be confiscated.

- Noise: This is a Wilderness area (did I mention that?) that is enjoyed by many, mostly non-climbers. The last thing passing hikers want to hear are your self-indulgent f-bombs, iPod speakers, grunting, etc. In fact, most other CLIMBERS don't want to hear any of these things either. The easiest way for us to loose access is to elicit complaints from other user groups.

- Dogs must be leashed at all times. Consider others when deciding whether or not to bring your dog, specfically considering that dogs like to scare away wildlife, and most other users would prefer not to have the wildlife scared away. Obviously, clean up after your dog.

Remember that we are guests in this area. Be respectful of other users and the USFS Rangers that manage this area.
Boulder 
Boulder Canyon: Seasonal Raptor Closure
2014 Update: Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and all seasonal raptor closure areas on U.S. Forest Service land will be re-opened August 1, 2014 for climbing.

Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
North: Subject to Seasonal Closures:
The following crags are typically closed February 1 to July 31:

First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws

Details:
www.bouldercolorado.gov/index.php?option=com_content&task=vi>>>.
Central, Achean Pronouncement, The Hand, Finger Flatiron, Shark's Fin, Dreadnaught, Mallory Flatironette, Bear Creek Spire: Subject to Seasonal Closures
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:

Ridge Two
Ridge Three
Ridge Four
Achaen Prnouncement
Back Porch
Argonaut
Dreadnought
North Ridge
Bear Creek Spire

Details.

All East Face routes on the following formations are closed 1 April to 1 October (routes on the North, South & West Faces remain open):
The Hand
Mallory Flatironette
Shark's Fin
Finger Flatiron

The following routes on Der Zerkle are closed from 1 April to 1 September:
Sunnyside One
East Face Left
East Face Right

Details.
Eldorado Canyon SP: Climbing reopened after flood
South, The Goose, The Matron, Devil's Thumb, Tower Of The Moon, Jamcrack Spire, Lost And Found, Toddler Rock, The Sibling, Fern Canyon, Shadowfax, Isolation Rock, Sunset Wall, Angel's Wings aka Devil's Wings, West Face: Subject to Seasonal Closures
The following crags are typically closed 1 February to 31 July:

The Goose
Goose Eggs
East Ridge
Mars Block
Nebel Horn
Tower of the Moon
Jamcrack Spire
The Pyramid
Incognito Crag
Devil's Thumb
Shadow Fax
Isolation Rock
Sunset Wall
Devil's Wing (W. Face)
The Matron
Lost & Found
The Sibling
Toddler Rock
Sphinx
Medusa


Details

In addition, Mallory Cave, Harmon Cave, and Seal View Cave are permanently closed to human use to reduce the chance of introducing white-nose syndrome.
Eldorado Mountain: Private Property issues
The West Bank / Wild West / Secret Crag has been problematic for years due to access concerns. There have been negative encounters with gun-toting landowners who have alleged that the entire mountain is on private property. Typical approaches involve brief crossing of railroad property which appears to be prohibited.

Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.

Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Third Flatiron, The Sacred Cliffs, East Ironing Board, West Ironing Board, Jaws, Green Thumb, The Ghetto, The Fin, Skunk Canyon: Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July:
Per Brian C.: 7/22/13 the closure on the 3rd Flatiron has been lifted.

The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws

Details
www.bouldercolorado.gov/index.php?option=com_content&>;;&>>>
Der Zerkle: Routes on Der Zerkle are closed from 1 April to 1 September
Sunnyside One
East Face Left
East Face Right
Mickey Mouse Wall: Closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31 each year.
Mickey Mouse wall is generally closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31. Details
Eagle Rock: Seasonal Raptor Closure
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates.
Shirt Tail Peak: 2014 Raptor Closure
Colorado Parks & Wildlife announced yesterday that Eldorado Canyon State Park has closed Shirt Tail Peak to all uses, including rock climbing, through July 15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles.

Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine up to $5,000 and 1 year imprisonment
Queen Anne's Head: Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July:
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws

Details
www.bouldercolorado.gov/index.php?option=com_content&>>>>>
W.C. Fields Pinnacle: Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July:
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws

Details
www.bouldercolorado.gov/index.php?option=com_content&>>>>>
Dum: Seal Cave closure.
The largest "cave" on this route is now closed! The closure area is small, in the middle of nowhere, and easily bypassed.
The Box: Raptor Closure
Closed from Feb 1 to July 31 to protect nesting raptors.
High Energy Crag: Open to climbing
Per Rik Henrikson, Boulder County Sherriff: please note, Parks and Open Space WAS determined that this crag WAS subject to indefinite closure; however, a site visit with a state biologist has confirmed this site is very close to a closed area, but this crag is OPEN TO CLIMBING.
Backporch: Raptor Closure
The raptor closure area has been expanded to now include the Backporch from February 1 to July 31.
The Sphinx: Raptor Closure
The Sphinx is also in the closure that typically includes crags closed 1 February to 31 July:

The Goose
Goose Eggs
East Ridge
Mars Block
Nebel Horn
Tower of the Moon
Jamcrack Spire
The Pyramid
Incognito Crag
Devil's Thumb
Shadow Fax
Isolation Rock
Sunset Wall
Devil's Wing (W. Face)
The Matron
Lost & Found
The Sibling
Toddler Rock
Medusa Rock
Flatirons: Climbing areas reopened after flood
Most climbing areas in THE BOULDER OPEN SPACE AND MOUNTAIN PARKS SYSTEM have been reopened after the floods. For a complete list and update, visit: https://bouldercolorado.gov/osmp/listing-and-maps-of-re-open>>>
Redgarden Wall: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.

The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.

For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/press.asp?PressId=8152
Higher Energy Crag: Open to climbing
Per Rik Henrikson, Boulder County Sherriff: please note, Parks and Open Space WAS determined that this crag WAS subject to indefinite closure; however, a site visit with a state biologist has confirmed this site is very close to a closed area, but this crag is OPEN TO CLIMBING.
Third Buttress: Reopened after rockfall
Apparently, the closure has been lifted.

Per Andy Hansen: As of recently the 3rd Buttress on Elephant Buttress WAS closed due to rockfall in the area. There were signs posted along the trail warning of a $1,000 fine or a 90-day jail sentence as penalty for trespassing.
Lower Dream Canyon: Access via Boulder Falls closed
Boulder Falls is open to tourists but the slope and approach to Lower Dream Canyon remains closed until further notice.
Gregory Canyon (including The Amphitheatre): Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July:
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws

Details
www.bouldercolorado.gov/index.php?option=com_content&>>>>>
Water Rock: Only accessible in winter when the creek is frozen
Eldorado Canyon Bouldering: ECSP is surrounded by private property parcels, OSMP-managed "Natural Areas" and railroad tracks. Many of the outlying areas surrounding ECSP have approaches that can bring these issues into play.
Most boulders within the Park itself have no access issues or concerns. Most of the areas with access concerns have long 75 to 120 minute approaches that will dissuade all but the very motivated from even bothering. However, when visiting the netherland areas like Cloud Nine, Mickey Meadows, the front side of Eldorado Mountain, the boulders found on the far west and northwest side of ECSP and even the East Draw, issues like crossing private property, climbing on private property, railroad track crossings, railroad tunnels and OSMP-managed "Natural Areas" all come into play. Become informed about where you are going by reviewing maps and asking around about proper approaches (assuming one exists), land ownership and access or lack thereof.

Stay low key in the netherland areas and if you run into other user groups or landowners, be respectful even if you are being asked to leave. Keep evidence of your visit to a minimum in these areas. People have been bouldering in these outlying areas for 10 to 20 years and it would be a real shame if a little info found here made access issues even worse.
Unknown Rock: Off-trail permit required
You can obtain a free off-trail permit here: www.bouldercolorado.gov/index.php?option=com_content&task=vi>>>

The formation is in Area 9 of the Western Mountain Parks.
Old Mapleton Elementary School: Possibly fenced in now.
The North Ridge (of Dinosaur Mountain).: Closed for Raptors Feb 1- Aug 1, annually
See OSMP closures, annually. Closes as for Skunk Canyon Ridge 3/4 and The Dreadnaught.
Harmon Flatironette: Closed April-Oct
The Harmon flatironette and cave are closed to human traffic from April 1 -Oct 1 to protect a population of Townsends Big Eared Bats. Please avoid the area during the closure.
Harmon's East: Closed April-Oct
The Harmon flatironette and cave are closed to human traffic from April 1 -Oct 1 to protect a population of Townsends Big Eared Bats. Please avoid the area during the closure.
Medusa: The Upper Crag of Medusa is subject to the Seasonal Cliff-chicken closure, apparently as part of the Sphinx closure(?).
Although not formally named and closed, a closure sign now rests in the notch between upper and lower Medusa. Lower Medusa lies below this closure. The dates are as per the Falcon Closure
Warm Up Rock: Raptor Closures
This small crag is subject to the same raptor closures as for Mickey Mouse Wall, Cave Rock, and some of the other crags on Eldorado Mountain. Typically, it is closed February 1- July 31. Occasionally the closures are shortened or lengthened. Check with Boulder Mountain Parks and Open Space for more details.
Buena Vista 
Bob's Rock: Seasonal Bird Nesting Closure
Bob's Crack, Air Soles, and everything climber's right of there is closed for bird nesting through July 15th.
Pump Station: Some routes are closed
Per Steven Reneau: As of 7/24/11, these routes are posted as closed (BLM sign at the base of the crag).
Canon City 
The Great Black North: This crag may be on Private Property!
The access situation here is a bit murky. According to "Shelf Road Rock", the crag is likely located on state land that is leased to a local rancher. Climbers should treat this area as though it were private property. Keep a low profile, leave your dogs at home, and keep the noise down.
University Wall: Private Property
This cliff sits on private property. The crag was "closed" by the land owner at one time, but the land has since changed hands. The current land owner's view on climbing access is unknown.
Carbondale Area 
Redstein: Serious rockfall hazard area.
This area contains massive amounts of loose rock, on both the base areas of each tier, and on the actual climbs.
CO Ice & Mixed 
Camp Bird Road: Yield to mining vehicle traffic
Revenue and Camp Bird Mines have resumed mining activities further up Camp Bird Rd. A new sign posted in February 2013 caused some tension as described in:

www.watchnewspapers.com/view/full_story/21840965/article-Ten>>>

Please refrain from blocking the road, yield to oncoming mining vehicle traffic, and be careful of rockfall and icefall. Please share the road to minimize future access issues with the road's multiple user groups.
Bridalveil area: Keep a low profile
Over the years, this route has had intermittent access issues. At times, it has been legal. At times, it has been completely illegal.
Chalk Creek Ice: Private Property
Per aSteel: with some effort to determine ownership, this is private property, that non-commercial climbing is currently fine, and we should tread cautiously to preserve access.

Commercial climbing requires the landowner's express permission, contract, etc.
North Cheyenne Canyon: Closed
Per "H": North Cheyenne Canyon is currently closed (12/2/13) due to the effects of the summer rain & floods.
Mayhem Gulch: This area is NOT closed Dec. 1 – Jan. 31.
This area is posted as NO LONGER “closed for hunting” Dec. 1 – Jan. 31 as confirmed by a Jefferson County Open Space ranger in March 2011.

As of Dec. 2011, the parking area is closed here. The signage indicates that the Mayhem Gulch Trail and Centennial Dome are closed due to hunting. According to a JeffCo ranger, the access to the ice climb is open. You will have to figure out legal parking which may be further away.
Freed Canyon: Freed Canyon Falls may be on private land
Please contact the landowner for permission to climb here. Thanks!
Parachute: Lots of private land. Oil and Gas. Be careful when choosing trailheads.
From what I know of Parachute ice most climbs are major approaches and access from CO 215 is not possible without first finding what company owns the land and getting permission from somebody in charge. Our investigation found some friendly workers who told us we needed to go to the main office for permission, to very unfriendly workers who couldn't get rid of us fast enough. With these kinds of initial obstacles, climbing in parachute can be quite the adventure. Climb at your own risk. The climb I am going to feature in this area had all of these initial obstacles but the approach was from the I-70 side of the Roan Cliffs. Still all oil and gas land but no signs and very little activity compared to the CO215 side. Our outing was awsome because all obstacles for the day, including a brutal 3.5 hour approach and a 6+ lead were overcome, I do not gaurantee simalar results for future adventurer's. Be prepared!
Unaweep Canyon: Lots of private land.
Gateway/Naturita: No Problems
Quandary Peak/Blue Lakes: Please respect the mining claims in this area.
6th FlatIron: Private Access Ask Permission from owners
Not sure if the rock is private or public, the access requires crossing private land. We asked the owners who live in a large home close to the rock.
North Table Mountain: Trail closures
Due to the rain and erosion from the fall of 2013, the normal access for these bits of ice on the eastern side of the mesa are closed from just above the ice and the rising part of the Mesa Top trail from the North Table Loop trail.
Pine River: Private Property
The trail passes through private property for the first three miles.
Coal Creek Canyon 
Pinecliffe: Area Closed
Per Melvin Glerup who is one of the landowners in the area: this Pinecliffe area is closed, since it is on private property.

Wonderland is on public lands but involves a tedious approach for legal access which is not through Pinecliffe.
Colorado Springs 
Garden of the Gods: Seasonal Closures - some are lifted
Update as of 8/10/14:

Closures in Garden of the Gods Park for raptor nesting sites have been lifted. This includes the East face of North Gateway, the East Ledges on North Gateway, and the East face of Grey (Kindergarten) Rock. Closures for Migratory Birds are still in effect - this includes the Tower of Babel. We expect this closure to last in to early Fall. Please refer to the map attached. If you have questions, please stop by the Garden of the Gods Visitor and Nature Center.

Climbing closures for Tower of Babel.
Climbing closures for Tower of Babel. <@? echo PostCache::objectEditBar(109336161,"APPROVED","IMAGE", "COMMENT", "edit, move, del, reassign",array(14568,108330184,108330184),array(103989403,104554749,109336162,109336161),"108330184", "", "" ); ?@>


Prior closures (pre 8/10/14): There are currently two closures in effect, both on North Gateway Rock. The first closures is for the Eastern Face (including the East ledges), which will include routes like Max's Mayhem, Snuggles/Fall Crack, etc. The second closure is for the Tower of Babel on the North end of Gateway Rock, and includes Anaconda, Ryan's Inferno, The Inferno, and Triple Exposure. The routes listed above are for reference, but may not represent all routes affected, and closures may be subject to change. We've provided a map of North gateway showing these closures.

North Gateway Closures- East Face and Tower of Babel.

North Gateway Closures- East Face and Tower of Babel.
North Gateway Closures- East Face and Tower of Babel. <@? echo PostCache::objectEditBar(108714608,"APPROVED","IMAGE", "COMMENT", "edit, move, del, reassign",array(14568,108330184,108330184),array(103989403,104554749,108714595,108714608),"108330184", "", "" ); ?@>


North Gateway Closures- East Face and Tower of Babel.

Submitted By: GardenoftheGodsStaff on Mar 5, 2014

Addendum: March 29 - Based on new reports of nesting behavior and of raptors exhibiting signs of stress/defending their nesting sites, we are updating our closures to include Big Sky and Sand in the Vaseline (aka The Route to the Left) on the East face of Grey Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock). Other routes on the East face near the South Summit such as New Era will remain open, but we ask that climbers approach these routes from the South, and avoid the North end/approach of the East Face while the closure is in effect.
North Gateway Rock: Seasonal falcon nesting closures
The East Face of North Gateway is closed to climbers every year from around Feb 1 until early August, depending on when the birds fledge. It's not posted out there, but since the closure has been in effect for 20+ years it is incumbent on climbers to know about closures by stopping in at the visitor center and asking. The falcons always nest in a big pothole above the traverse ledge and below the Kissing Camels arch.
Stanley Canyon: US Military (limited access)
Located on USAF Academy. The Academy is open to the public from 8AM to 6PM.
Air Force Academy: U.S. Military
Limited access to base.
Cathedral Park: Private Property Alert
Access to Cathedral Park Ranch crosses private property in some areas. Consult a map and park your vehicle before Clyde and the tunnel to avoid crossing private land.
The Powerline Boulders: Entrance Is Private Property
Colorado College: Questionable legality
Crested Butte  
Skyland Boulders: Open, with restrictions: Private Property
The southern entrance to the boulders is through private property. Please enter from the north.
Crested Butte : Parking is not allowed in the Skyland residential district, please do not park there.
In addition to not parking in the Skyland residential area, there are a couple other considerations.

The best way to access the boulders is via bicycle (or hiking) the Tony's Trail, which leads right up to the Hone Stone. This is easily found by taking Elk Ave. east, until it turns into a dirt road. Dogs are not allowed on this trail however, and climbers have received fines for having dogs in this area, as it is used for ranching.

If you do have dogs and want to bring them up, the best way to do that is to access the Skyland Boulders from the town of Mt. Crested Butte, via the Upper Loop. A parking area is available on Hunter Hill Rd.
Denver South 
Castlewood Canyon SP: Seasonal Raptor Closures
As of March 7, 2012:

Shakespearean Theater – restricted March, April, May.

Mind Meld – restricted March, April, May.

Porky’s Wall – restricted March, April, May, June.

Vulture Wall – restricted March, April, May.

Morning Sun Wall – restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Porky's Wall: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Closed March 1 - July 1 for nesting falcons.
Durango 
Fume Wall: Closed: private property
This crag is on private land and the owner has decided not to allow climbing.
Dry Grotto: Recently (11/22/10) evidence of mountain lion visitation / habitation has surfaced. Not that anyone has gone here, but be aware and avoid.
Perins Peak: The Perins Peak State Wildlife Area closes seasonally, usually mid-Nov./early Dec. to late May/early April, for big game species.
Falls Creek Cliff: This area may not be open to climbing as houses now line the base...
Private property issues apply to this cliff.
Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Cliff 
Gilman Canyon: Temporary Access Impediment
The city of Redcliff was upgrading their sewer system and has signs prohibiting the usual parking and hiking for Gilman. Also parking above, Frontage Road shoulder, is off limits.

The wastewater treatment plant is finished, but it is illegal to park at the pullout, and the sheriff does do a drive by every day. One can park along the road in a few places, but be aware of rockfall from above. The best parking is at the Klettergarden.

Also, the railroad tracks and the crags close to the tracks are owned by the railroad (go figure), and the crags further uphill from the tracks are owned by Ginn. It is all private property, but access has not been a problem, yet!!!!!
Wolcott Crags and Boulders: Trestle and CMC areas are off limits.
The entire Trestle and CMC areas are now off-limits. The house finally sold and the new owners are more than happy to call the cops on climbers and fishermen (even for trespassing on land that is not theirs!).
The First Tier: Private Property
Please note that both crags here (the lower being Tressel Rock and the higher being the CMC Crag) are on private land!!!!! It is clearly posted, and the owner does NOT want any climbers on his property.
Eldora 
Eldora Summer Slab: Road Cut access
The Eldora Slab sits above heavy steel netting to prevent erosion. Be mindful of rock fall onto the road.
Estes Park Valley 
Lumpy Ridge: Season raptor closures
The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice:

Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation.

Alligator Rock is also closed.

www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm
Deer Ridge Buttress: Season raptor closures: March 3 - July 31
This crag is closed Mar 3 - July 31 for raptor nesting.

For more info, see the NPS website:

www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm
Devil's Gulch and Dry Gulch Roads:
Sheep Mountain may have raptor closure issues. Please contact RMNP for further details.
Pulpit Rock: Parking
This area has a tiny 14 car parking area. It often fills. You can park further back from the trailhead, but the opportunities are limited and add a good bit to the approach.
White Pines West: Closed to public access
Closed to public access, including all climbing routes.
Call 970-295-6700 for more info on this crag and other local areas impacted.
Box Prarie Boulders and Climbs-Dragon Scales Rock: Closed to public access
Closed to public access, including all climbing routes.
Call 970-295-6700 for more info on this crag and other local areas impacted.
Linger Longer Rock: Private Property - Open, with restrictions
This climbing area is privately owned. The owners allow climbing but ask that no bolts or fixed anchors are installed without express permission.
The Fin: Closed: Private Property
This area is on private property. No climbing allowed.
Fish Creek Road/Hermit Park: No public access from Fish Creek Road/Little Valley Road
There's no public access from the Estes Valley. As far as I know, Hermit Park offers the closest public access.
Friendship Boulders: On YMCA Property, access is questionable if not an employee or accompanied by one.
Since these boulders are on the property of the YMCA, you are for sure allowed to climb here if you are with an employee of the Y or you work at the Y. If you are not, please be respectful of the area, no drinking or smoking on property, and don't disturb any of the cabins or properties.
Fort Collins 
420s: The Kingpin Boulder is closed to climbing
The Kingpin Boulder is on private property and is closed to climbing. See Poudre Canyon (420's) Access Issue: Kingpin Boulder for details.
Horsetooth Mountain: West Mountain Approach is on private land
The west mountain approach up to Horsetooth Rock is on private land. Approach from the trailhead on the southeast.
Childbirth (Area at Arthur's Rock): Warning: Tick marks, landings
1) Always clean up your tick marks

  • This boulder is right on the main Arthur's Rock trail, all tick-marks are considered an eye sore to non-climbers.

  • Please don't risk future access issues by leaving without cleaning up your chalk.

2) Never damage/alter the landscape/resources.

  • Please do not build landings at the Childbirth Boulder, the NCCC is working with LSP on a permanent solution to the landing erosion and deterioration.
Georgetown 
The Georgetown Buttress: Must cross private land.
The crag itself is on public land, but it is good to obtain permission to cross the private land adjacent to the road.
Glenwood Springs 
Fortress of Solitude: Seasonal Raptor Closure
Voluntary seasonal falcon closure notice for the Fortress of Solitude from February 15- July 31. The closures are route specific. The central super routes (Daily Planet to Flex Luthor) are open. Once nesting has been determined routes may open. No new routing (noisy power drills) can happen during this time period even in the open areas of the main cave. Any routes east of the main cave remain open. Please no caching of gear on Forest Service land. The Forest Service has been very cooperative in establishing this plan; please be responsible.The specific routes to be closed are listed below with numbers from the Rifle/ Western Slope Wolverine Publishing guide book.
For the left aerie: The Sandman (not in guide) 5. Lois Lame 8. Blind Date. For the right aerie: Ironman (not in guide) Snake Woman (not in guide) 17. The Kalous Logan 18.The Fuck Up
-Bryan Gall
West Wall: Pummeling Sector and the Gothodrome: Closures from February 15- August 15
The closures as of now are route specific. In the main cave of the Fortress the whole west wall, gothdrome, and east wall/ bat cave areas are closed with nesting sites above those areas. Only the central super routes (Daily Planet to Flex Luthor) are open. Once nesting has been determined routes may open. No new routing (noisy power drills) can happen during this time period even in the open area. Avoid loud noises if at all possible. Routes east of the main cave are open. Please no caching of gear on Forest Service land. The forest service has been great in working out a very climber friendly management plan please be responsible!
Metropolis Sector: Closures from February 15- August 15
The closures as of now are route specific. In the main cave of the Fortress the whole west wall, gothdrome, and east wall/ bat cave areas are closed with nesting sites above those areas. Only the central super routes (Daily Planet to Flex Luthor) are open. Once nesting has been determined routes may open. No new routing (noisy power drills) can happen during this time period even in the open area. Avoid loud noises if at all possible. Routes east of the main cave are open. Please no caching of gear on Forest Service land. The forest service has been great in working out a very climber friendly management plan please be responsible!
East Walls/Bat Cave: Closures from February 15- August 15
The closures as of now are route specific. In the main cave of the Fortress the whole west wall, gothdrome, and east wall/ bat cave areas are closed with nesting sites above those areas. Only the central super routes (Daily Planet to Flex Luthor) are open. Once nesting has been determined routes may open. No new routing (noisy power drills) can happen during this time period even in the open area. Avoid loud noises if at all possible. Routes east of the main cave are open. Please no caching of gear on Forest Service land. The forest service has been great in working out a very climber friendly management plan please be responsible!
International Buttress: Railrod is private property
Access to this area crosses the train tracks which is private property and therefore trespassing.
New Castle Boulders: Private Property
Access to this climbing area passes through private property near the canal. Climbing access remains open but keep a low profile.
Fountain Buttress: The railroad is private property
Unknown Tower: The railroad is private property.
Many Bands Wall: Railroad is private property
The railroad is private property and crossing the dam at Hanging Lake is illegal.
Golden 
Clear Creek Canyon: Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014
The long-awaited Peaks to Plains Trail up Clear Creek Canyon is under construction! Please note that rockfall mitigation will be happening around Fiscal Cliff. All work will be taking place in areas already designated as construction zones, but crews would like to remind climbers that these areas remain off limits for safety concerns. Dog House and Cat Slab will not be affected. Email p2ptrail@publicinfoteam.com with any questions.
North Table Mountain/Golden Cliffs: Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County
Stay tuned for an announcement of the transfer to the County, as well as an upcoming celebration at Golden Cliffs to commemorate the legacy of Mayford Peery, who donated the cliffs to the Access Fund in 1994. The event will celebrate 20 years of Access Fund ownership and officially present Golden Cliffs to Jefferson County Open Space.

Read more about this project on our website.
Golden Gate Canyon SP: State Park; Fee Required.
Golden Gate Canyon is a State Park and a $6 (2010) fee is required for entrance. Self serve kiosks exist throughout the park. Annual passes can be purchased for $60.
Primo Wall: Private land
Per Tzilla Rapdrilla: Primo is actually on private land.
The Catslab: Open according to a Jeff CO ranger
After months of negotiation, Clear Creek County successfully acquired the 76-acre Oxbow Parcel that contains the Cat Slab cliff. While the cliff line is protected, the area is now officially open to the public. The County is working on developing and implementing a site plan to provide safe, off-road parking, which may include shifting the guard rail and gate to provide more parking as a short-term solution.

Cat Slab was a popular crag before it was closed to the public in 2006 due to liability concerns. The County purchased the land using $725,000 in lottery funds, awarded by Great Outdoors Colorado (GOCO). The County was supported by numerous recreational groups, including the Access Fund, Colorado Mountain Club, Colorado Whitewater, Trout Unlimited, International Mountain Bicycling Association, and Rafting Outfitters on Clear Creek.
Tremont Mountain: State Park; Fee Required
Golden Gate Canyon is a State Park and a $5 (2007) fee is required for entrance. Self serve kiosks exist throughout the park.
Grand County / Fraser Valley 
Upper Hurd Basin: Posted private property / no trespassing
After at least a couple decades of access to public lands through this area, suddenly there is a chain and a couple signs saying No Trespassing at the start of the 4wd road. Perhaps the only issue is to discourage motorized vehicles and hiking through won't bother anyone? Be advised.
Willow Creek Pass Fins -- 99 Mile Rock: Technically not an access issue, but rock knocked off the east face can descent quickly to the highway.
Safety details: rocks knocked or dropped off the east face can easily roll to the highway. In the summer, road bikers are occasionally on the pavement, so in consideration of those on the highway, have someone in your party get the rocks-breakage off the highway quickly.
Grand Junction area 
McInnis Canyons: Keep on Trails, Som areas are wilderness and cannot be bolted on.
Raindrop Prow: Private Property
Keep a low profile
Fossil Boulder: Please Do Not Climb This Boulder
The BLM has asked that we no longer climb on this boulder.
Mary's Playground: Private Property Access
Permission from property owner is required for climbing access.
Castle Rock: Private Property
Climbing access is open but keep a low profile.
Juniper Wall: Private Property
Smith Wall: Climbing is prohibited until further notice.
Chalcopyrite Wall: Short private property approach to BLM land.
Superchief Boulder : Private Property
Note, this area appears to be on private property. Apparently the landowners are not sympathetic to climbers.
Supercrack Buttress: Private property
A subdivision exists below the buttress.
Unaweep Wall: Sensitive ecosystem
Right at the seep which is directly across the from the parking lot there is a very fragile ecosystem with many unique and endangered species. Walk further down canyon to where the vegetation is less to cross the stream
Land's End Area: Road Closure
Land's End Road is subject to seasonal closures. Check this link for closure information: www.fs.usda.gov/detail/gmug/alerts-notices/?cid=stelprdb5421>>>
Gateway to Mesa/Montrose County Line Boulders: Private Property
Tread lightly, as the boulders found in this area are intermingled amongst public and private land. Please ensure that you do not trespass on private property, the following is a link to the County Assessor: emap.mesacounty.us/assessor_lookup/
Gross Reservoir  
Gross Reservoir : Do not park on road.
Park in two car scenic overlook parking lot, parking on road will result in a bouldering bust!
Gunnison 
Black Canyon of the Gunnison: 2014 Raptor Closures
2014 Climbing Closures Amended:

All previously closed climbing routes and buttresses, from the Forrest-Walker/Stratosfear on the Painted Wall, upriver to the east (including the Porcelain and Alpine Aretes) are now open to climbing.

All previously closed climbing areas across from the Painted Wall on the South Rim (including Cedar Point and Dragon Point gullies) are now open to climbing.

The following areas are closed to climbing from now through July 15, 2014 to minimize or eliminate disturbances to Peregrine Falcon nesting:

The Painted Wall, west of (but not including) Forrest-Walker/Stratosfear

All climbing that is accessed via Echo Canyon, including a closure of walls on both sides of the gully and main face of Wild Bill's Wall.

www.nps.gov/blca/parknews/index.htm

2013 Raptor Closures
Serpent Point and the adjacent walls within one-half mile are closed to public use from March 15 through July 15. This includes the landscape portions above the walls extending 50 feet from the rim edge. This pertains to the following areas:

North Rim areas - The Alpine Aretes, Porcelain Arete, and Painted Wall. These climbing routes are closed: Alpine Route, Porcelain Arete, On the Border, Broken Porcelain, Northern Arete, Beyer Route, The Dragon, The Serpent, Forrest-Walker, Stratosfear, Journey Through Mirkwood, and Southern Arete.

South Rim areas - Dragon Point and Dragon Point Buttress. These climbing routes are closed: Pilgrimage, Crumb Blunder, Magic Dragon, Black Adder, Black Snake, Black Heathen, Black Dragon Rider, and Silent Rage.
Willow Creek: Just past the gate is PRIVATE PROPERTY, Wait till the sign says PUBLIC before you start exploring.
RESPECT PRIVATE PROPERTY! Access depends on it.
Idaho Springs 
Swissco: Area is currently closed - Private Property
Please note that there is currently no access to this area, and if you drive down the road, you will be asked by the land owners to turn around and leave.
Indoor Walls 
Buena Vista - Adventure Unlimited Indoor Climbing Wall: This Gym is open Seasonally.
The Gym is open to public use only on open climbing nights. Other than these times this gym is a private gym reserved for campers and Adventure Unlimited Staff Members.
Irish Canyon 
Irish Canyon: Irish Canyon BLM lands are designated as an ACEC
ACEC--Area of Critical Environmental Concern. This preserve is for the protection of Black Sagebrush Vegetation. This vegetation grouping includes all the species in the the Black Sagebrush habitat.



Keystone a.k.a. Montezuma 
Porcupine Rock: Parking near private building and public bike path
Keystone Colorado-Landfill Road 
Keystone Colorado-Landfill Road: Road Closure
The dirt road closes sometime in the fall and reopens sometime in the spring/summer.
Lyons 
Buttonrock: CLOSED for 2014
Due to floods, this area is unfortunately closed.
The Fang: Normal access is closed.
The normal access to this crag is located on private property. This is a change since the St. Vrain guidebook. Trespassing for any reason is illegal. Trespassing will now be enforced with the assistance of the local sheriff's office. Violators will be held accountable for towed vehicles, citations, and any legal actions.

The Fang itself does not reside on this landowner's property.

Boulder County MAY have purchased this parcel of land a couple years ago.
Defibrillator Dome: Possibly lies on private property.
Make sure not to hike too close to the private residence at the mouth of the gulch when approaching.
Morrison/Evergreen 
Deer Creek Crag: Private Property?
Allegedly, this may be private property, and the landowner does not want climbers on the rock.
Mount Morrison: All the East side routes are closed.
Elephant Butte: Open, with restrictions: Private Property
This summit is bordered by private property. Do not cross private property on the ascent or descent. The best access is from Alderfer/Three Sisters' Mountain Muhly Trail. Return by the same route.

DMP is currently working on a master plan that does not seem to adequately address rock climbing in DMP areas. "Rock climbing" may not be allowed on Elephant Butte.

Ocelot Cliffs: Closed to climbing
Denver Mountain Parks acquired this land. Their current policy is to make all the land closed to climbing.
Naturita and Paradox Valley 
Slickrock Buttress: Wildlife study area
It appears that the large, blank-looking, south facing wall and all other walls downstream of this are in a designated wildlife study zone and therefore fixed anchors are prohibited. This does not apply to Slickrock Buttress.
Ouray vicinity (rock) 
Colby's Corner (Ridgway): Private Land - See Details
Colby's Corner is on Open Space land owned by the Loghill Village Homeowner's Association. We've worked with their park board informally for access. Technically, you must be a property owner or guest to use the land. So befriend a Loghill Villager. I know one Villager has the first ascent of the Lotus Flower. Don't screw up the access!
Pagosa Springs 
Blanco Basin Crags: Easement to Blanco River Trail
Please be respectful of ranch owner's property.
San Luis Valley 
La Garita Creek: Closed.
South Platte 
Cynical Pinnacle: May 24, 2013 Spot Closure
The spot closure for Block Tower, Cynnical Pinnacle, Bad JuJu Roof, and Snake Buttress goes into effect May 24, 2013.

The trail leading up to them is closed as well.

2013 Cathedral Spires Spot Closure.
2013 Cathedral Spires Spot Closure. <@? echo PostCache::objectEditBar(108156126,"APPROVED","IMAGE", "COMMENT", "edit, move, del, reassign",array(106055414,106055414,106055414),array(105708969,106055414,108156123,108156126),"106055414", "", "" ); ?@>
Devil's Head: Raptor Closures
FYI: Parts of Devil's Head climbing area are closed March 1- July 31 every year for Peregrine falcon protection. The official closure order and associated map can be found here: www.fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/stelprdb5280647.pdf.

For questions or more information, please contact the South Platte Ranger District office at 303.275.5610.
Thunder Ridge: Road & nearby private property
Please do your best to maintain good relationships with the people who own the land in this area. Do not drive your vehicle past the "private property" sign. Do not go up to the house to ask for directions to the crag. Do not ride your bike down the road. Please move immediately to the side of the road if any landowners are approaching in their vehicles.
Squat Rock: Closed (private property)
Bucksnort Slab: Private Property
This climbing area is on private property.
Sphinx Rock: Closed: Private Property - Sphinx Rock is on private property
6/3/06 -- Sphinx Rock (aka Elephant Rock) in Pinegrove, Colorado, is located on private property. Trespassing for any reason is illegal. Trespassing will now be enforced with the assistance of the local sheriff's office. Violators will be held accountable for towed vehicles, citations, and any legal actions.
North Turkey Creek Crags: Climbing Access Closed - Private Property
This area is located on private property and is closed to climbing. Please be mindful if you try this place out, by seeking any permission necessary. This area is listed here due to its history with early climbing in the area, by many groups such as the Colorado Mountain Club.
Cathedral Spires Area: Seasonal Raptor Closure
2014 update: As of May 27th, nesting activity has been confirmed and the closure will continue at Block Tower and Cynical Pinnacle. Remaining areas, including Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress are re-opened.

The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates.
Snake Buttress: May 24, 2013 Spot closure
The spot closure for Block Tower, Cynnical Pinnacle, Bad JuJu Roof, and Snake Buttress goes into effect May 24, 2013.

The trail leading up to them is closed as well.

2013 Cathedral Spires Spot Closure.
2013 Cathedral Spires Spot Closure. <@? echo PostCache::objectEditBar(108156126,"APPROVED","IMAGE", "COMMENT", "edit, move, del, reassign",array(106055414,106055414,106055414),array(105708969,106055414,108156123,108156126),"106055414", "", "" ); ?@>
Block Tower: May 24, 2013 Closure
The spot closure for Block Tower, Cynnical Pinnacle, Bad JuJu Roof, and Snake Buttress goes into effect May 24, 2013.

The trail leading up to them is closed as well.

2013 Cathedral Spires Spot Closure.
2013 Cathedral Spires Spot Closure. <@? echo PostCache::objectEditBar(108156126,"APPROVED","IMAGE", "COMMENT", "edit, move, del, reassign",array(106055414,106055414,106055414),array(105708969,106055414,108156123,108156126),"106055414", "", "" ); ?@>
The Infidel: We talked to the nice people at the Hidden Valley Dude Ranch and they kindly escorted accross the ranch.
They were so nice I thought they might offer us their horses! Back in the day, if you showed up at the gate, someone would come out to meet you. It's worth it for this cool crag.
Etive Slabs: Private Land
It is quite possible that this area is on private land and is closed to climbing.
Jazz Dome: Be considerate
Jazz Dome is located on Denver Water property. Reportedly Denver water has no objections to climbing on the rock; however, there is a small tract of private property near the south edge of the dome. Please be considerate and keep the noise levels down and the trash out.
Baboon Rock: No parking in campground
Park on S side of road just outside of campground in parking area. $5 access fee to Elevenmile Canyon.
Sport Rock: Currently Private
Access may be open to discussion with the new owner.
Staunton State Park: Falcon Closures
The 2014 seasonal falcon closures are:

- Lion's Head
- The Ranch Hand
- The Park View Dome
- The Sawmill Crags
- Rough Neck Wall
- Black Creek Wall

These are in effect from Feb. 1 - Aug. 1.
The Ranch Hand: Falcon Nesting Closures
The 2014 seasonal falcon closures are:

- Lion's Head
- The Ranch Hand
- The Park View Dome
- The Sawmill Crags
- Rough Neck Wall
- Black Creek Wall

These are in effect from Feb. 1 - Aug. 1.

The closure on Ranch Hand has been lifted.
Park View Dome: Falcon Nesting Closures
The 2014 seasonal falcon closures are:

- Lion's Head
- The Ranch Hand
- The Park View Dome
- The Sawmill Crags
- Rough Neck Wall
- Black Creek Wall

These are in effect from Feb. 1 - Aug. 1.

The closure on Park View Dome has been lifted.
Lion's Head: Falcon Nesting Closures
The 2014 seasonal falcon closures are:

- Lion's Head
- The Ranch Hand
- The Park View Dome
- The Saw Mill Crags

These are in effect from Feb. 1 - Aug. 1.
Sawmill Crags: Falcon Nesting Closures
The 2014 seasonal falcon closures are:

- Lion's Head
- The Ranch Hand
- The Park View Dome
- The Sawmill Crags
- Rough Neck Wall
- Black Creek Wall

These are in effect from Feb. 1 - Aug. 1.
Black Creek Wall: Falcon Nesting Closures
The 2014 seasonal falcon closures are:

- Lion's Head
- The Ranch Hand
- The Park View Dome
- The Sawmill Crags
- Rough Neck Wall
- Black Creek Wall

These are in effect from Feb. 1 - Aug. 1.
Rough Neck Wall: Falcon Nesting Closures
The 2014 seasonal falcon closures are:

- Lion's Head
- The Ranch Hand
- The Park View Dome
- The Sawmill Crags
- Rough Neck Wall
- Black Creek Wall

These are in effect from Feb. 1 - Aug. 1.
Steamboat Springs 
Sarvis Creek Domes: Seasonal closures
Per The Unsung: this crag and the surrounding 1/4 mile area is closed from April 1 - July 31.

Closure info.
Closure info. <@? echo PostCache::objectEditBar(109257995,"APPROVED","IMAGE", "COMMENT", "edit, move, del, reassign",array(105825489,105791779,106034624,109257969),array(105708955,105708956,105882626,106859780,106242210,109257995),"109257969", "", "" ); ?@>
The Dome: Falcon Closure
All Dome routes are closed through July 31st
Slater Creek Problems: This is the access road to California Park and the Hahns Peak Basin from the Southern Wyoming, Eastern Moffat County, and Northwestern Routt County directions---not the standard access road to Hahns Peak.
Routt County Road 82, Forest Service Road 116 follows Slater Creek. The best problems can be found near the intersection of Slater and Adams Creeks. This is not world class bouldering...if you are passing through the area, it is a fun roadside stop. Noting too much over V0 easy. Most of the limestone is fairly solid. The crag sticks out like a sore thumb as you reach the area, it is north of the road & creek and south of Shield Mountain.
Telluride/Norwood area 
Pipeline Wall: Open with restrictions - Private Property
The Idarado Mine owns large portions of land, including the access road, that they have been kind enough to maintain partially and allow the public to use. Obey the rules and keep a low profile to ensure continued access.
Ames Wall: Open with restrictions - Private Property
Keep a low profile and stay on the trail from the parking lot at the Ames Power Plant.
East Jungle Gym: Please use high traverse above our property for access to both Jungle Gyms
East of Post Office. Please do not use trail with no trespassing, use high traverse under Crack Canyon. Thank-you
The Wet Mountains 
Tanner Dome: Seasonal falcon nesting closures
Access is closed to climbing April 1 to August 1.

Per b hof: within 3/4 of mile from the West Bear Gulch trail is closed due to the birds.
MORE 
Badlands: Closed.
Chastine's Grove: Closed.
Estes Park, Hagermeister Boulders (aka Kingstone Boulders): Closed.
Fatted Calf: Closed.
Highway 287 Boulders: Closed.
Little Owl Canyon: Closed.
North St Vrain - Split Rocks: Closed.
Old Stage Wall (Left Hand Canyon: Closed.
Ripper Traverse: Closed.
Roxborough State Park: Closed.
Twin Rocks: Closed.
Connecticut   Central CT, CT Bouldering, more 
Central CT 
East Peak: Open with restrictions - Private Property
Climbing here is not technically legal, however , it is tolerated. Please keep a low profile.
The Alcove: Meriden does not allow rock climbing on town property
MORE 
Ragged Mountain : Closed.
Traprock Crags - Cook's Gap: Closed.
Traprock Crags - Lost Valley: Closed.
Traprock Crags - Shuttle Meadow: Closed.
CT Bouldering 
Rubix Cube : May be on private property
Ledyard Areas: Do Not Climb at the Ledyard Areas on the weekends.
It is patrolled by Groton Utilities and they have been giving climbers verbal warnings about climbing on these road side areas.
Southeast 
Lantern Hill: Private Property
This is on private land owned by the Mashantucket Pequot Tribal Nation. There has been climbing there for decades without access issues. Please be respectful of that and don't do anything to jeopardize that.
Southwest 
Laddin's Rock: Parking Issues
Park at the Rosa Hartman Parking lot on Brown House Rd. (Stamford Side) to access the crag.
Devil's Glen: Town property "Residents Only"
You will likely be ticketed by the police if you attempt to visit this spot. There is NO legal parking.
Great Ledge: Land Trust property
Redding Land Trust owns Great Ledge has a parking lot and trail to the Ledge located on Dayton Rd. Please do not park and bushwack from Newtown Turnpike (Rt. 53) as there is no established trail to this cliff and traveling on Centennial Watershed State Forest property requires you to stay on established trails and carry the following permit: www.ct.gov/dep/lib/dep/stateparks/maps/saugatuckreservoirtra>>>. RLT does not specifically have a policy on rock climbing at the ledge but should any issues arise they might very well close the property to climbing. If you intend on climbing at Great Ledge please consider a paying the $10 membership fee which can also be considered a tax donation.
Roadside Crag: Public Access by Permit Only
This area is Public Access by Permit Only and the permit is available for download: www.ct.gov/dep/lib/dep/stateparks/maps/saugatuckreservoirtra>>>. Please note climbing is not allowed on the Centennial Watershed State Forest, owned by the Aquarion Water Company or the Devils Den Preserve, owned by the Nature Conservancy. This cliff appears to be located in the C.W. State Forest. Climbing has been tolerated at this cliff but you could be asked to leave. Parking lots along Newton Turnpike (Rt. 53) close at sundown .
MORE 
BJ's: Closed.
Bradley Mountain: Closed.
Cathole Pass: Closed.
Chauncey Peak : Closed.
Cook's Gap: Closed.
Jackson Street Quarry: Closed.
Lamentation Mountain : Closed.
Lost Valley: Closed.
MDC Crags: Closed.
Mile of Ledges : Closed.
Nipmuck Crags - Pothole: Closed.
Short Mountain : Closed.
Shuttle Meadow: Closed.
South Mountain: Closed.
West Hartford Reservior: Closed.
West Peak: Closed: AMC Wall, Chimney Rock, Hourglass Area, North, Radio Forest, West Buttress, Windy Wall.
Woodbury: Possibly closed.
Delaware   more 
Alapocas Run State Park 
Alapocas Run State Park: Permit required for roped climbing.
On your first visit, go to the Blue Ball Barn to get a mandatory (but inexpensive) climbing permit. You must carry the permit with you any time you climb on ropes at Alapocas, or you may be ticketed.
Georgia   Lost Wall, Mount Yonah, more 
Blood Mountain 
Blood Mountain: Its a long hike for not that much climbing
It is like a two hour hike from the from the parking lot and its all up hill. Once you take the trail from the parking lot (which is near the mountain crossings store), up to a trail junction, take a right. Its a pretty steep hike.
Lake Lanier Boulders 
The Roche Cove Boulders: You can park at the end of Chestnut Hill Rd. and walk down to the lake.
Boulders only exist when lake is 15+ feet low. But well worth the wait.
Metro-Atlanta Area 
The Palisades: Trail Entrance is on Private Property, but altercations are rare.
MORE 
Cloudland Canyon: Closed.
High Point: Closed.
Rising Fawn Rocks: Probably closed.
Stone Mountain: Closed.
Hawaii   Mokuleia Wall, more 
Hawaii (Big Island) 
Papakolea Beach: Be cool around the locals
Kauai 
Kealia Beach Bike Path Bouldering: Do not climb on fenced off cliff areas!
Parts of the Kealia bike path include short, chossy dirt cliffs that are fenced off to keep tourists from pulling rocks onto the path. Stay off!
Makaleha Mountains: Do not trespass on private property
Many areas in the Makaleha Mountains are privately owned. Do not trespass-obtain permission from the landowners before crossing any boundary lines.
Oahu 
Mokuleia Wall: Emergency Closure
As of Tuesday June 12, 2012, Mokuleia is closed to climbing and all access. A young girl was accidently injured by falling rock and the State closed the area to all users. Local climbers are working on regaining access.
Palolo Valley Crag:
The trailhead starts at a sign that says "No trespassing," but the trail is fairly busy and the owners have no problem with hikers/climbers going through.
Oz: This is located on government property
Climb at your own discretion.
Idaho   Castle Rocks, City of Rocks, more 
Black Cliffs 
Black Cliffs: Seasonal Raptor Closures.
Box Canyon 
Box Canyon: No new bolts.
This is a designated Wilderness Study Area. Current routes may stay, but no new bolts may be added.
City of Rocks 
Window Rock: Raptor Nesting
The west side of Window Rock has seasonal bird closure in the spring until June 15th- check for closure signs posted in the parking lot.
Eagle Rock: Open with restrictions - Private Property
This crag is on private property but so far the landowners have had no complaints. Keep a low profile.
The Dungeon: This area is on private property and is subjected to access issues. Please be cognizant of any sign that preclude its use!
Twin Sisters: Currently closed to all climbing (as of 2013)
Climbing on the Twin Sisters formation is prohibited in order to "protect the historic viewshed" of the California National Historic Trail.
Yellow Wall: Private Property
Climbing in this area isn't closed off like it is on the Twin Sisters, but other materials detailing the area have asked that climbers please be respectful.
Heise Rock 
Heise Rock: Open with restrictions - Private Property
This crag is located on private property right next to the road. The owners have been kind enough to allow climbers to use their land for recreation. Please respect this so that the area may continue to be accesable.
Q'Emilin Park 
Outlaw Wall: This area may or may not be on private property.
Ririe Reservoir 
Ririe Reservoir: Parking Fee
$3 day parking/ $30 season parking pass. Other fees for more than day parking.
South Park 
South Park: Winter closure
The entire area is under a general human-use ban during the winter months.
MORE 
Marsh Creek: Closed.
Illinois   Giant City State Park, Illinois, more 
Buffalo Rock State Park 
Buffalo Rock State Park: No Current Permission To Climb
All thought this area looks promising for climbing, it should not be done. By climbing in an area that considers it illegal, you hurt access to all other areas. Be respectful. If access is desired, contact your local climbing organization for help.
Draper's Bluff 
Draper's Bluff: Draper closed
Area closed by owner due to liability concerns
Starvard Rock State Park 
Starvard Rock State Park: State Park Regulated by the IL DNR
New rules this year (2014)!!

Ice Climbing only in the following Canyons

French Canyon
Wildcat Canyon
LaSalle Canyon
Tonty Canyon

Access Rules

-Sign in at Maintenance building
-No Climbing alone
-No Mixed Climbing
-Climbing allowed between 7am and Dusk
-Do NOT wear your crampons on the the wooden bridges or walkway.

The Holy Boulders 
The Holy Boulders: [[Donate Today To Protect What
MORE 
Garden of the Gods : Closed.
Kankakee River State Park : Closed.
Matthiessen State Park: Closed.
Stoneface 1 and 2: Closed.
International   Australia, Canada, more 
Africa 
Bronkies: Please visit www.climbing.co.za/wiki/index.php?title=Bronkies&climbwiki_m>>> for details on the access agreement details.
Ghana: Must have a Visa to enter the country
Mount Krobo: The boulder field is across farms and range land. The crag is above the boulder field on the mountain
This climbing area is at the base of the Krobo people's sacred mountain. It could be very disrespectful to be climbing on the mountain or at its base. You must cross farms and rangeland to access the SACRED mountain.

I strongly strongly recommend asking to see the chief of that area (ask for him when you get out at Akuse junction (see directions)).

Let him know your purposes, how long, and where you are staying. Give him a gift (a traditional practice), usually monetary (like 5-10 Ghana Cedis, about $3-$7, just for speaking to him and asking him permission) and if they ask, give them anything for the privilege of being on their land (you can negotiate). The people are very kind, so there should be no issue for the bouldering at the base of the mountain. It may or may not (depending on their mood and your attitude (be pleasant)) on whether climbing on the mountain itself will be an issue…after all it is a sacred mountain.

Be respectful. If they say no, please do not go. Try making some local friends and ask again later.
Lukenya: Must get permission from Mountain Club of Kenya: mck.or.ke
Sangalo Rocks: Must walk through farmers' plots
Must walk through farmers' plots, but they are kind and accommodating. Like many of the tall rocks in the area, the hill is considered spiritual, so inquire before bolting.
Wajala Main Rock: Closed, this area is off limits due to military land use
MCU is working on opening up access currently All the rocks at Wajala are CLOSED
Wajala-Nansambia: CLOSED
MCU is working to reopen this area. The Ugandan military is not allowing climbing as the land is theirs. So if you want to climb there enlist in the army, or talk to mountain club of Uganda for updates on reopening it.
Robs Rolling Rock: Not private land, but people will try to charge you for use. See details
This area is on community land. The bolting was done by visiting Italians a while back. There is a guide company called Robs Rolling Rock that claims they have exclusive rights to this rock. It does not appear that is the case. Mountain Club of Uganda recently climbed hear and after a very brief attempt to get money from us the Robs Rolling Rock guys left without any fee paid. Obviously if you have no gear and need a guide, call em and get a quote. If you find it yourself and use your own gear I would say don't bother talking to these guys. They wanted us to pay 40 USD each to climb on our own ropes and gear. . .
Malawi:
Most land in malawi is privately owned, and you will not go anywhere without attracting a huge crowd of people, except possibly Mulanje and more remote sections of the Zomba Plateau. A few hundred kwacha (about a dollar) will usually buy you all the access you need. Just ask anyone....and the right person to pay will magically appear.
The Frog: Kenyan Army can sometimes train in the area
When Kenyan army is training in the area, best advice is to stay down the cliff some ways
Hillside Dams: $2 day entry
Main Wall: $2 day entry
Batoka Gorge: National Park
I have to date never had an issue with access but it is designated as national park (mostly this is to do with river access)I am sure once more climbing happens here or bolting permission is sort the officials will hit you up for an access fee.
Mount Longido: Fee Area
Mount Longido is a national Forrest reserve. Contact the Longido Cultural Tourism Program for up to date fee info and to arrange guides. In July of 2014 the fees where about $50 and the Program Director was a gentleman named Ally (0767 885 185)
Asia 
Broad Peak: Restricted Zone
Trango Towers: Restricted Zone
Thailand: Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway.
You can read about the warning here. There is extensive rebolting being done to replace suspect bolts with titanium glue-ins.
Gasherbrum IV: Restricted Zone
K2: Restricted Zone
Mt Katsu (Katsuyama): Do not eat the shiquasha (japanese orange)
The vilagers love us and have no problem with use climbing there they just ask us not to eat their Shiquashas.
Masherbrum: Restricted Zone
Kuji: Watch out for high tide!
Shi Du: Fee charged
Access is constantly changing with the mood of the locals, be prepared to pay a fee to climb, but never pay more the RMB 30 since if you pay once then everyone else will have to pay it too. Do this too look out for your fellow and future climbers. I advise checking with Beijing climbers as to the access and fee situation before making a trip.
Pakistan: Permit required above 6500 meters.
The Pakistani definition of a mountain according to the Ministry of Tourism in Islamabad is a peak higher than 6500 meters, 21,450 feet. Therefore you dont need permits for peaks lower than that mark. Anything higher, or if you are hiking within 20 km of an international border you will need permits. For a permit, you need to either: 1. Licensed mountain guide OR 2. Pakistan Army Liason Officer (LO) to guide you along the way. The guide/LO has to be equipped with gear that will allow him to hike with you till the base camp of your peak.
Baltoro Mustagh: Restricted Zone
You need a permit from the Ministry of Tourism in Islamabad. You also need either:

1. Licensed mountain guide OR
2. Pakistan Army Liason Officer (LO)

to guide you along the way. The guide/LO has to be equipped with gear that will allow him to hike with you till the base camp of your peak.
Nanga Parbat: Restricted Zone
Panmah Mustagh: Restricted Zone
You need a licensed mountain guide from the Pakistani govt or an Army Liason officer to get in here
Hispar Mustagh: Restricted Zone
You will need a licensed Mountain Guide through the ministry of Tourism or get an Army Liason officer to attempt any of the high peaks in this area
Raikot Face: Restricted Zone
Diamir Face: Restricted Zone
Ministry of Tourism Mountain Guide or Amy LO needed along with a permit
Rupal Face: Restricted Zone
You will need to contact a tour operator in Pakistan or in the US who has licensed guides through the ministry of tourism in Pakistan. They will arrange for a permit.
Rakaposhi: Restricted Zone
Hindukush Range: Restriced Zone
Tirich Mir: Restriced Zone
Haramosh: Restricted Zone
A permit and ministry of tourism licensed mountain guide or liason officer will be needed
Lobsang Spires: Restricted
Mitre Peak: Restricted
Uli Biaho Tower: Restricted
Wadi Rum: Entrance Fees
2JD Park Entrance Fee
Iwate Prefecture: Watch out for high tide!
Lower Pisang/Manang (Manang District): TIMMS, Anapurna Conservation Act (ACAP)
In Route Stop in Bessisar get both permits don't quote me around $40 USD.

Or you can purchase your passes in Kathmandu, ask for the local Trekker's Information Management System(TIMMS), And Annapurna Conservation Act(ACAP)

There will be many check points along the route to show your trekking passes(listed above)
Wine Bottle Area: Access Issues
There’s been some ongoing battles at the heavily traveled Wine Bottle Cliff. As one of the more popular and public areas the locals have tried in the past to capitalize off the traffic by charging for access to crags they don’t own. Unfortunately it’s flared up again and it seems like they have the police on their side now. More information can be found here: yangshuoaccess.org/
Wine Bottle Cliff: Access Issues
There’s been some ongoing battles at the heavily traveled Wine Bottle Cliff. As one of the more popular and public areas the locals have tried in the past to capitalize off the traffic by charging for access to crags they don’t own. Unfortunately it’s flared up again and it seems like they have the police on their side now. More information can be found here: yangshuoaccess.org/
Golden Cat Cave: Crag Occupied?
A guiding group kind of just took over this area awhile ago, setting up banners, top ropes, tables and whatnot. It ruffled some feathers with some of the locals, because they had nothing to do with the FAs. That said, it's mostly beginner climbs so nobody really made a stink out of it. I strolled over and met with the guide company and they were some really nice guys who are just trying to make a living climbing.
White Mountain Area: Access Issues
There’s been some recurring closures at White Mountain. The locals recently put up a fence and posted signs designating the area closed. Check the YangShuo Access Org before heading over: yangshuoaccess.org/
Khao Chin Lae 2: Access through Buddhist Temple
Wat Pa Suwannahong is at the base of this tower. It is a Buddhist Temple. Climbing is always allowed, but you must sign in before you climb, and you MUST dress appropriately. Guys wear a shirt, women wear something to cover your shoulders and thighs, and take your shoes off when appropriate. Ladies take a "sarong" to cover up your shoulders.

Donations encouraged. A little for you is a lot to the monks.
Namhansanseon Beomgul rock: Please be very respectful of the tombs on the approach.
This is probably private property, and the tombs are quite important to the families of their ancestors who rest there. A famous Korean crag on this site was closed because of concern over this type of thing. (Also, cached gear)
Pulau Besar: Swedes and Monsoon Season
The island hosts a popular Swedish survival television series every March - May and the island is pretty much hands-off during filming.

The monsoon season shuts down all the resorts and bouldering from December - February.

June - November is the best time to come to Pulau Besar.
Yushan (Mt Jade): Limited by Yushan National Park regulations
The alpine climbs are inside the natural reservation areas declared by Yushan National Park. People who enter Yushan National Park reservation areas need to apply for Yushan National Park entrance permission. The permission is granted only for limited number of persons daily. Sadly, in some climbing seasons (especially some Febraries in recent years, the best times for alpine climbing), the park official would reject any application for entrance permission, even if you specifically apply for alpine climbing in this area.
Mt Dabajian: Limited by National Park regulations
People who enter Shue-Pa (short for Snow Mt and Mt Dabajian) National Park reservation areas need to apply for Shue-Pa National Park entrance permission. The permission is granted only for limited number of persons daily.
Sadly, since 2010, to summit Mt Dabajian is forbidden by national park offcial. However, climbers tended to ignore the regulations and climb in low profile.
Kawai Boulders: accessable by train
The area is in a camping site. You have to pay usage fee 500yen(on season), 100yen(off season)
www.okutamas.co.jp/kawai/access.htm
Iraq: DOD ID Card, ID tags, and a weapon
Gunung Buros: White Magic Wall: Will have to park near some houses and walk thru a pepper field. No issues as of now to access wall but smile and dont walk on the crops.
Lower Area: Please pay 500 yen for parking at the trout center
Saudi Arabia: Visa required
You need a visa to gain entry to Saudi, but if you're interested in climbing here, you probably already have one.
Dhahran: Closed Compound
Dhahran is a closed compound owned by the oil company Saudi Aramco
Ein Prat: Nature Reserve and West Bank
Since the crag is across both the Green Line and Security Barrier, access to the area could be closed by the IDF at any time due to security threats or a future peace agreement. Access to nature preserves in Israel is illegal after closing time.
Seoraksan National Park: climbing permit required
There is a national park website where you can submit a permit application and nominal fee in advance and pick it up at the main gate on the way in.
Pokhara: Three Sisters: 3 Sisters Adventure Trekking tariff
3 Sisters Adventure Trekking/Harry Brands bolted the climbs here, and they expect payment of 500 Nepali rupees (approximately 6 USD) per person per day to climb.
Loucheng: uncertain, was sensative before, need more info
Once host to a "clibming" festival but never heard anything about it again. Heard there was some sensative dealings with local government or mafia!?
Offenheimer's Creation: Private beach
Climbers need to obtain an access pass from Asia Outdoors.
The Lost World of Tambun: Private property
The entry fee of 45 Malaysian Ringgit (equivalent to $15.00 US) must be paid at the main gate. Park staff will then escort you back to the climbing area because the fee does not cover admission to the "Lost World" water park.
Park open daily from 10:00 am to 6:00 pm
Mammut Wall: Private property
The entry fee of 45 Malaysian Ringgit (equivalent to $15.00 US) must be paid at the main gate. Park staff will then escort you back to the climbing area because the fee does not cover admission to the "Lost World" water park.
Park open daily from 10:00 am to 6:00 pm

Laguna: Private property
The entry fee of 45 Malaysian Ringgit (equivalent to $15.00 US) must be paid at the main gate. Park staff will then escort you back to the climbing area because the fee does not cover admission to the "Lost World" water park.
Park open daily from 10:00 am to 6:00 pm

Tiger Wall: Private property
The entry fee of 45 Malaysian Ringgit (equivalent to $15.00 US) must be paid at the main gate. Park staff will then escort you back to the climbing area because the fee does not cover admission to the "Lost World" water park.
Park open daily from 10:00 am to 6:00 pm

The Needle of Tambun: Private property
The entry fee of 45 Malaysian Ringgit (equivalent to $15.00 US) must be paid at the main gate. Park staff will then escort you back to the climbing area because the fee does not cover admission to the "Lost World" water park.
Park open daily from 10:00 am to 6:00 pm

Takatori Yama: Very Limited Parking
Best access is by approach from either Jinmuji Station (Keikyu Line) or Higashi Zushi Station (JR Line)
Kwanaksan:
You have to pay 300 won at the park entrance (that's like 25 cents US)
Koh Tao : All of koh tao is on land that is either private or semi private.
Alot of the crags are on private land. For some like Meks Mountain which has been developed by Good Time Adventures.You can pay the day use fee at their shop on Sairee beach.

Many thai landowners are willing to let climbers onto their land assuming a fee is paid but this is not always the case. You will probably have to refer with the guides at Goodtime Adventures should you be uncertain.
Australia 
Point Perpendicular: Located on Australian Navy Property! Obey all Rules!
This crag is located on Australian Navy property. Access can be and is rescinded from time to time. Please obey all regulations. The facility is often closed to the public M-F.
Ball's Pyramid: Access controlled by Lord Howe Island Board
Climbing was banned in 1982 under amendments to the Lord Howe Island Act, and in 1986, all access to the island was banned by the Lord Howe Island Board. In 1990, the policy was relaxed to allow some climbing under strict conditions, which in recent years has required an application to the relevant state Minister.
Europe 
Luxembourg: You need a permit
You can order the permit here : www.environnement.public.lu/guichet_virtuel/escalade/index.html . If you come from far away, you only get 1 day permits.( You might try to come without as there are almost no controls. This is not encouraged!)
Alaró:
The land owners do not permit climbing and actively patrol and remove climbers on the Paret de sa Porta crags, directly below the castle itself. In the more remote sectors, problems are less likely to occur. The best advice is to keep a low profile, use only the described approaches and leave if asked.
Lorsbacher Wand: Seasonal closures for this area.
Check the signs in the parking pullout for closure dates. This area may be closed from 1 December to 30 June for Falcon breeding.

Please send me more detailed information if you have it and I'll update this.
Bad-Herrenalb: Closed season.
Climbing is forbidden from Jan 1 to July 31. Making it a good autumn destination.
Gogarth: Seasonal closure for bird nesting.
Ofen: Off limits in winter and spring
The entire area is off limits, by Federal regulation for the protection of wildlife. in winter 2010/2011, the closure was effective from early winter through mid June. Fines are very very stiff for infraction of federal wildlife regulations.
Olu Deniz: Some beach are private.
Some beaches are "private" but 5 Lira ($3) gets you in for the day.
Ghajn Abdul: Prehistoric Archaeological Site
This secluded set of caves and crags once housed ancient rock climbers that might have something to teach us if we look close enough. Don't erase any signs they may have left for us.
Upper Left Bay: Parts of this cliff were closed when I visiting in 6/09
There seems to be construction being done on the top of the cliff, and so some of the areas below have been taped off due to falling rocks. We experienced falling rocks and men yelling at us to leave when getting to the anchors of Chimenea.
Garda (the city): The crag is open, but some of it is located on private property. Please tread lightly!
Ailefroide: This valley is within Parc National Ecrins
Bad Heilbrunn: FALCON BREEDING
The Falkenwand as it is called is only open March through July
Zellersee: Private Property (free access)
It is free to climb here, but the park is privately owned, that said, park, walk, and climb lightly. The main building in the park serves as a Kletterschule (climbing school) as well and often takes kids out to the crags, so if they do, be helpful and curteous, and give them the routes they need.
Nago wall: Private Property (free access)
Be respectful as it is on private property. Particularly leave the olive trees alone.
Rauchröhren am Kaitersberg: Some Rock in Bayerischer Wald forbidden
Unfortunately there is a preservationist standpoint on some rocks in the national forest. Rocks with legal access are marked by small signs. Please respect the local laws to keep what is there open. An X with a circle around it, means climbing forbidden; an > with a circle around it, means climbing allowed.
Pfahl: Regular rules of Bavarian Forest
Black X inside circle = climbing forbidden; Black >; inside a circle means climbing ok.
Schwedenfels: Hours, Chalk free, no new routes
Climbing is allowed from sun-up till the beginning of sunset. Chalk is prohibited. No new routes may be established.
Rocher de Freÿr: Area is private and managed by the Belgian Alpine Club
The cliffs at Rocher de Freÿr are private property and managed by the Belgian Alpine Club.

To recreate here, one must be a member of that club, or, another like club (American Alpine Club, etc). Bring your membership card.
Przadki: Climbing is illegal
Mont Aiguille: Please no camping at the trailhead (!)
Camping at/near the trailhead is prohibited. Drinking water for Richardière and Chichilianne come from this area. Fines are "regular and particularly dissuasive."

Abuse of the no-camping rule could result in not being able to access the parking lot.

Please, no camping near or at the trailhead.
Presles: No "wild" camping in this area.
Please, no bandit camping at this area.
Slon (the Elephant): Re-forrest area
Park rangers put a fence around the area to protect newly planted trees. It may or may not be legal to enter...
Hvar Island: Cliffbase is on private land and has been developed for climbing by the land owner.
You will need to contact cliffbase@cliffbase.com prior to your arrival.

The owner can help you with transport to/from Ferry as well as local lodging.
Cliffbase: Cliffbase is on private land and has been developed for climbing by the land owner.
You will need to contact cliffbase@cliffbase.com prior to your arrival.

The owner can help you with transport to/from Ferry as well as local lodging.
Baggy Point: Avoid Long Rock Slab in spring (nesting birds)
Laghel: crossing some private property on access trail
Please stay on the established trail as it crosses private property. Keep a low profile and please be respectful of this access through private property.
Wye Valley: Bird restrictions
Access to some crags is restricted in spring due to birds nesting - check BMC website for up-to-date details.
Wintour's Leap: Avoid upsetting local residents!
Some of the climbs finish beside or even inside local residents' gardens, so take care to follow the recommended ways off - consult the Climbers' Club guide for details.
Llanberis Slate Quarries: Owned by First Hydro (electricity utility)
Climbing tolerated (usually) but keep a low profile
Helsby: Nesting birds
The East Buttress is usually closed for climbing in spring due to nesting peregrines.
Harborough Rocks: stay to path on approach.
Park on lay bay in road then walk towards brickworks. Follow first path and go directly to crag
Roter Fels 1: Closed for raptor breeding
Generally closed from 15 Jan to 31 July, but check online or ask in climbing shops if it's close to either of these dates to see if climbing has now become allowed.
Avon Gorge: Seasonal bird ban
The right hand side of the Main Wall (Pink Wall area) is closed between 1st March and 30th June most years due to nesting peregrine falcons. Check the BMC regional access database for details.
Great Orme: Restrictions at busy times
Access to crags above Marine Drive is restricted at times when tourists are most active, e.g. summer weekens and public holidays
Rainbow Slab Area: Climbing tolerated
Climbing is tolerated by the owners, First Hydro, but not officially sanctioned. "Don't be a jerk" is always good advice.
Adrspach: National Park
Circuit When can climb

Himálaj 1.7. - 30.11.
Hůrka 1.7. - 30.11.
Janovická Vlčí rokle no climbing
Jezerka 1.7. - 30.11.
Království 1.7. - 30.11.
Město 1.5. - 30.11.
Milenecká hora 1.5. - 30.11.
Ostrov 1.5. - 30.11.
Panoptikum 1.7. - 30.11.
Podhradí 1.7. - 30.11.
Rokle nad Černým jezírkem no climbing
Rokle nad Spáleným mlýnem 1.7. - 30.11.
Řeřichové stráně no climbing
Vstupní obvod 1.5. - 30.11.
Za pískovnou 1.7. - 30.11.
Ztracená rokle no climbing
Krizovy vrch: Sandstone
NO climbing after rain
Teplicke skaly: Sandstone
No climbing after rain, No Chalk, No metal gear
Suberpene: Must park before the gate
From the end of Heches (indicated by a sign with a red slash through Hecehs)take your next right then next left before the bridge. Follow dirt road until you reach the gate (looks like a toll gate).

For printable topo see link:

lataboge.perso.neuf.fr/Sites/Suber/Suberpdf.pdf

For printable topo see link:

lataboge.perso.neuf.fr/Sites/Suber/Suberpdf.pdf
maps.google.com/maps/ms?msid=210544611686653146042.0004b0e88>>>
Arcegno: Settore Guffeto may be closed! See description.
Rocca di Corno: Raptor protection area
Note that the area to the left (north/west) of the Settore Ovest is off limits to climbing for protection of several species of raptors.
Boragni: Raptor protection area Central and Right Sectors from Jan - July
Central and right sectors closed for raptor protection from January through July.
Sektor Betlispfeiler: Betlispfeiler closed.
Local politician has placed an unofficial (but fairly official-looking) sign saying climbing prohibited on this sector, effective fall 2012. 'Danger of rockfall'... for whom, not sure.

While not legally binding, please think twice before risking everyone's access by climbing here.
Wolfman Jack Wall: check bird bans
Berry head: bird ban
The Old Redoubt at Berry Head has a restriction due to nesting birds that runs from the March 1st to July 31st inclusive.
Sainte Victoire: Fire Restrictions - summer months!
Due to an extreme concern for fire danger, from 1 June to 30 September, the massif’s attendance is regulated.

During the months of June, July, August and September, the access of persons to the massif, traffic and parking vehicles are regulated according to the weather conditions of the moment, defined by 3 levels of meteorological danger: orange, red and black.

  • Level Orange: Access allowed

  • Level Red: Access allowed from 6am to 11am and barred outside these hours

  • Level Black: Access forbidden

Additional information on current restrictions at:

+33 (0) 8 11 20 13 13

www.bouches-du-rhone.gouv.fr/files/massif/

Wild camping also prohibited.
Craig Pen Trwyn: Closed Seasonally
Marine Drive is tolled.
Climbing above the road is not allowed between 9AM and 5PM on Easter, bank holidays, and between July 1st and September 10th.
Vysoké Tatry - High Tatras: National Park
Before visiting, check the local rules. Climbers are free to visit most of the areas in national park, but there are always some exceptions.
www.tanap.org/national-park-rules/
Unknown Buttress: Currently closed due to rockfall
In early 2013 a rockfall occurred at the far left-hand end of the Unknown Wall. Although the routes in the Unknown Buttress area are not directly affected, the landowner is concerned about liability should more rock come off. Climbing is thus banned until further notice. The best place for up-to-date information is probably the Climb Bristol facebook page
Pucelles:
Climbing is managed by the Belgian Alpine Club. You must have proper mountaineering insurance through a Climbing association such as the American Alpine Club. Climbing is also situated within a Nature preserve, so please be careful to not scrape lichens off the rock.
Vysoke Tatry - High Tatras: National Park
Before visiting, check the local rules. Climbers are free to visit most of the areas in national park, but there are always some exceptions.
www.tanap.org/national-park-rules/
Main Wall: Seasonal bird ban
The right hand side of the Main Wall (Pink Wall area) is closed between 1st March and 30th June most years due to nesting peregrine falcons. Check the BMC regional access database for details.
Can Jorba: Certain parts of this canyon are closed for Falcon nesting during the winter months. Please check the sign near the parking area for details.
Sirchinger Nadeln: Road closure
As of Augsut 2013, the road L249 from Bad Urach to Sirchingen is closed. Massive rainfalls in spring 2013 caused a large mudslide and damaged the road. The road will probably remain closed until end of 2013.
Sabotørfossen and Der Graue: Topping Out
Do not cross the fence to Norsk Industriarbeidermuseum so as to maintain a good relationship between the locals and the climbing community
Cala Goloritze: National Park, Parco Nazionale del Gennargentu
Follow all national park regulations
Kaldakinn: Unmaintained Road
After reaching the end of Road 851 you continue north on a dirt road. This road is not maintained and can at time be impassable due to weather conditions.

About 100 feet in from the fence there is a steep water crossing. Father out towards the sea there are a few areas that can be underwater depending on the tide. Be very careful in these area, although they may still be traverse-able, going off of the track can put you into very deep water.

At the end of the road be careful not to park too close to the sea. If the tide comes in, it may reach your vehicle.
Nissedal: there are a toll on the road to haegefjell that is the main area for both multipitch trad and excellent granite bouldering
the area has many smaller and bigger cliffs, cliffs ranging from 150 - 550 climbing meters, 3 - 15 pitches, nice granite bouldering, 2 small bolted sport climbing crags, and ice climbing during the winter season, to qoute famous yosemite climber ron kauk : "this is like home.... without the crowds"
Hen Cloud: Nesting Peregrines
A large section in the middle of the crag is banned between March and July most years for nesting peregrine falcons. Check the BMC's Regional Access Database for the most up-to-date information
New Zealand 
Smith Rocks: Closed
This area is currently closed to climbing thanks to the thoughtless actions of a few discourteous people. Check at Bryce's Outdoor Centre for more information and current status.
The Airstrip: Private property
At present permission must be obtained from the farm managers Ben and
Bex Stubbs: ph.021 315796. Or 078787426
Sheridan Hills: This Area Is A Working Farm
You no longer need to check for access before climbing. The farmer asks that all vehicles park on the road and DO NOT drive onto his farm
Bayley Road: This Area Is A Working Farm
This climbing area is on a working farm. The owner asks that you sign the book at the gate before entering. Please leave all gates as you find them, don't disturb the livestock, and pack all your garbage out. The climbing here will be closed during lambing, which usually runs from July through August.
Jardines: private property
Jardines Farm; they don't mind boulderers to do their thing, give him some heads up (this may depend on lambing season, too). AND remember to close the gate behind your car at entry and exit.
Flock hill: Restricted Permit Access
Drive down to the Flock Hill lodge and at the restaurant ask about the forms for Flock Hill climbing. They make you read through a waiver-type form and then you fill out information on your party size and dates so they can keep the numbers down in the area.
Mangaotaki: Currently closed for film production
Generally closed from 1Aug-31Oct for lambing, the crag is was closed by the Denize family [(07) 877 8349] for filming of the Hobbit movies in early 2011. While bouldering is not prohibited, the family has expressed serious concerns about frequency of boulderers shouting or using profanity while climbing, which they can hear from their home.
Leitch's Road: Working farm-contact landowners before climbing
Frog Pond (Stubbs Farm): Working farm-contact landowners before climbing
Frog Pond is on the property of the Stubbs family, and is currently leased out to Greg Scott. Greg is happy for climbers to visit as long as permission has been given from the Stubbs family. He also expects the usual considerations with respect to his livestock (no dogs, do not chase or molest stock in any way, leave gates as you find them, etc.)
Call Angus or Ann Stubbs for access at (07) 878 8594.
Castle Craig - Te Anga : Working farm-contact landowners before climbing
Access to these bluffs is either through a privately owned working farm or across the Mangaotaki river. IMPORTANT NOTE: The cliffs in Te Anga proper, immediately across Boddie's Road and the Te Anga tavern are permanently closed. They are tapu.
Pakeho Crag:
You MUST phone (07 8788223) and speak to Paul to get permission to climb
EVERY time you want to use the site (best done the evening before), and please don't
turn up with more people than you tell us are coming.
1. - Don't park on the drive or in any way obstruct access along the drive.
2. - No dogs, guns or fires!
3. - Keep it peaceful. No music, portable CD players, car stereos etc.
and a minimum of shouting and swearing please!
4. - Do not interfere with or remove any equipment left or stored on the site.
5. - Carabiners and rapides on belays are to be left as you found them.
Under no circumstances are rapides to be removed from the rigging
(usually chain), or re-arranged on the rigging.
6. - Take your rubbish with you.
7. - Stick to the climbing area, do not go wandering off elsewhere.
8. - The caves are strictly off-limits, Keep away.
9.- If you are asked to vacate a climb or keep clear of a spot while it is used for a
tour please do so quickly and graciously.

Fixed Rigging and Belays
There are two permanent ropes on "the Tower". They are NOT there for the use of
climbers. By all means flick them out of your way but otherwise do not use them or
interfere with their rigging, and leave them as you find them. This applies to any
ropes you may find elsewhere on the crag as well.
Belays are equipped with a rapide for lowering and top-roping. Most are double
bolts and chain (DBC-R), some are wire rope (W-R). A couple have a rigging plate
(P-R).
The rapide system is set up to be quick and easy with the leader remaining on-belay
at all times:
1. Clip the chain, or an eyelet in the case of wire rope, as you would a bolt
runner, then undo the rapide.
2. Drop your rope into the rapide and do it up – finger tight only!
3. Remove your gear and lower away!
Using this system as described will avoid leaders being dropped through miscommunication,
incorrectly re-tying knots etc.
Tighten rapides FINGER TIGHT ONLY, do not over-tighten them!
North America 
Watchtower Creek: National Park!
This is a sensitive environmental area, leave your dog at home, clean up after yourself and respect the pristine wilderness you are entering. Follow all park rules and regulations.
The Old Settler: Gates may be closed.
Some logging roads have gates that are locked when active logging is occurring. Check in advance with a phone call to Lakeside Pacific, the tenure-holding forest company: 604 793 9340. Keys can generally be picked up from their Chilliwack office during normal business hours, or at the logging camp by prearrangement.
The Dihedrals: Falcon nesting closures are usually in effect from March 15 to July 31.
Falcon nesting closures are usually in effect from March 15 to July 31. See the BC parks website for more details: www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/parkpgs/stawamus/

From the BC Parks site:

Closed Climbs: Millennium Falcon, Sports Illustrated, Cloud Burst, Sea of Tranquility, Getting Down on the Brown, Supernaut, Clean Corner, Negro Lesbian, Crap Crags, Slow Dyke, Illusion, Planet Caravan, Warriors Wasteland, Freeway (above 5th pitch), The Big Slick, Brothers in Arms, Western Dihedral (4th pitch and above).

Open Climbs: Arrow Root, Cleaning the Brain, Deadend Dihedral, Rutabaga, Sticky Fingers, Slow Duck, Time Passages, Freeway (to the top of 5th pitch) and Western Dihedral (to the top of the 3rd pitch).
The Smoke Bluffs: Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot
There is an excellent parking lot available (thanks to the BC Climbers Access Society, I believe), but people continue to park in the residential areas anyway.
The Malamute: Access issues at the Lower Malamute.
Much of the Lower Malamute falls into CN Rail's right-of-way. More accurately, the starts of many of the climbs fall into this region. See this link for more details: www.access-society.ca/regions/squamish/areas/lower-malamute

Also, see Kevin McLane's 2006 edition of his Squamish Guidbook to see a image of what is and isn't accessible.
Grassi Lakes: Rocks above climbing area dangerously destabilized.
Kid Goat Buttress: Old access crosses private property
The shortest access around the west side of the dump has heavy equipment operating during the week and should be avoided. Instead, use the access around the East side of the dump; it's longer but safer.
The White Imperialist: Archeological site nearby
Please avoid touching or disturbing the large boulder next to the wall. It is chained off and has native petroglyphs on it.
Whitecroft : Keep it clean and be respectful to the property
Dont park infront of the gate.
The Lions: A few access issues here.
Parking in the town of Lion's Bay is a constantly changing situation. Watch the signs carefully and be willing to park down the road from the trailhead and walk.

The East Lion is off-limits due to its location in the GVRD watershed.
Falcon Crest Wall: Peregrines
Peregrine falcons nest on the Falcon Crest Wall from April 1 to July 31. Please do not disturb them during nesting season!
Senior Centre: Private Road
This crag is on a fire road on which local homeowners pay the city a lease or use fee of some sort. The homeowners are of the opinion that this grants them exclusive use of the road. While that may or may or not be true, they act on that belief and have cars towed and confront users.

The crag itself is on public land, so there's no problem with the climbing itself. Work is underway to clarify the road situation. In the mean time, best ways to approach the crag are (more details in the "Getting There" section:
1. park on Indian River Drive before the fire roads begin and bike in and out (and haul your bikes up the trail a bit).
2. Drive in and drop everyone off except the driver, then the driver can drive back out and bike back in.
Apron Boulders: Kaboom!
Soon To Be Blown Up
Quebec: Many public cliffs are under the liability insurance of the FQME or ACC
To climb at the FQME Accès Montagne cliffs you need to have:
-FQME 'Accès Montagne' membership (55$)
-For members of the Alpine Club of Canada an FQME 'Accès Montagne' upgrade (30$)
Or purchasing a 10$ day pass.

This money is used to pay the liability insurance for landowners regardless if they are private citizens, municipal or provincial.
The maintenance of cliffs and their access, replacing of fixed protection.

www.fqme.qc.ca
www.alpineclubofcanada.ca
Eldred Valley: Logging Roads - Restricted Access
Logging road access is before 5am and after 6pm during the week. Weekends and statutory holidays have 24 hour access. If you are unsure about the access, ask before you go.
Stillwater: Private Property
Although you are technically walking around the property it will feel like you are walking through the owners yard. The owner is fine with climbers going through but please be respectful and keep dogs on a leash and the volume down.
Sleeping Giant: Do not use the old Chimney Trail.
Do not use the old Chimney Trail for the descent due to erosion and rock fall danger. Climbing is not an officially recognized activity in the park.
Hunter Creek Bouldering: Private land
Climbers have access up to the roped fence. Owners do not want climbers going down to the river. There is also livestock that roams the forest. Please keep your dogs under control. Boulders on east side of river are off limits.
Davis Lake Crag: Peregrine Falcons nearby
Peregrines are known to nest on the cliffs nearby (across Davis Lake to the west). They have not been observed nesting on this crag to date but climbers should remain aware of the possibility for nesting falcons and be prepared to retreat if it seems apparent that birds are nesting close to or on routes.
Mount Nemo: Top rope ban in effect; DO NOT SLING THE CEDARS.
Gatineau Park: NCC Gatineau Park restrictions
You can rock climb in the following locations:
  • Home Cliff — Centre Wall
  • Twin Ribs — Down Under, Eastern Block and The Left Twin
  • Western Cwm — West.
Climbers must stick to the official climbing locations and open trails. See the map section for more information on the climbing locations and routes.
Bon Echo: Located in a provincial park
Some special rules apply to certain routes which are near native paintings. Access is by canoe or Alpine Club of Canada water shuttle
Cobbles Bouldering: Mix of Crown and private
No access issues as of this date.
Parque Garrafon:
Must pay to enter the park... it's something like 5 or 10 pesos
Gros Bonnet: Private land
The forested land is privately owned and the Alpine Club of Canada has secured access to climbing by offering him liability insurance.
  • Must be a member of an organisation which has signed an agreement with the owner (presently the ACC May 2014)
  • No construction of permanent structures.
  • No cutting of trees unless absolutely required at the base, top and on the cliff only.
Cabin Fever Boulders: Private property
Property has been abandoned and is for sale. We have permission to climb for now, but the future of the area is uncertain. Do not use any of the buildings.
Western CWM: Respect designated paths !
Baby Pneu: This area is currently closed to climbing by the land manager/owner -- the National Capital Commission (NCC).
Sumas Mountain Crag: Private property
This crag is apparently located on undeveloped private property. Although access has not been an issue in the past, climbers should recognize the owners' rights and obey any posted signage with respect to trespassing or parking.
Cuba: Cuba Closes All Access to its Mountains
Cuba has been become a booming winter climbing destination. Hundreds of overhanging sport routes draw Canadian and European climbers, and Cuba’s vast limestone walls are home to a developing community of local climbers. Cuba also has become a favorite destination for many other adventure travelers. For now, it is all over. An unexplained edict of the Cuban government has closed its western mountains, not only to climbers, but all visitors, climbers, hikers, and birders a like. This report is provided here because of the many U.S. climbers who ignore the lightly-enforced U.S. travel ban to climb in Cuba.



Trouble in Paradise

In January 2012 the Cuban authorities closed almost all access to the mountains in Western Cuba. The closure does not apply only to climbers, but all visitors, from cavers and mountain bikers to hikers and bird-watchers. In Viñales National Park, home of about 80 percent of the established routes, access is limited to walking with official guides on the few trails long ago “authorized” by officials for tourism. The authorized trails reach about one percent of Viñales Valley, and go nowhere near any of the climbing sites. The rest of this World Heritage site is off-limits to all visitors.

No one has seen a written decree, so the full scope, rationale, and penalties are unknown. Local officials themselves can’t say why the policy on access has changed.
Welsford: Must contact CFB Gagetown Range Control
Some of the crags in this area are on Canadian Military land. Members of UNB Rock and Ice Club need to call Range Control before going. Non-members must present themselves in person to Range Control and procure a pass. 506 422-2000 ext 3121
Godman Creek: Private land
Access for hiking, biking and bouldering currently accepted (as of june 2010)
Sully's Hangout: Not an LSCR sanctioned climbing area
The Lower Seymour Conservation Area (LSCR) has decided not permit rock climbing or manage the climbing area within it's borders. The LSCR will not prevent persons from climbing within the LSCR's borders at this time. Any person who chooses to rock climb within the LSCR borders does so at thier own risk. A Sign is posted at the crag stating the LSCR's position.

To keep the this option available to all climbers please respect any signs posted with regards to this area.

There will be no organized trail building or posting of any information regarding this climbing area within the LSCR's borders.

More info here: www.access-society.ca/regions/lower-mainland/areas/sully-s-h>>>
Paredes de Copoya: Protected Natural Area
Although on the map this has been designated as a Protected Natural Area by the state, local land developers have been gearing up to try and subdivide the forest land below the climbing area. Grupo Escala and Tierra Verde are two groups that are trying to keep las Paredes de Copoya in its natural state.
Grand Morne: Access fee to FQME. Also watch for peregrine falcon closures.
To climb, you must pay a daily fee (10$) to the FQME or get a yearly membership for 55$. The latter gives access to other crags in the province.

For falcon closures, look at the information kiosk in the parking lot.
Cheekbone area: Seasonal Peregrine Falcon closure
This area is closed from early April to late July. Please respect the signs and check on Climbeasterncanada.com to see if it's open or closed.
Cave Area: This property is on CFB Gagetown
you must either call in or get a day pass at Camp Petersville
Tulancingo: Open, but archeologists are concerned.
This crag is archeologically sensitive, with petroglyphs and other remnants of ancient cultures.
Mount Athabasca: Ice Field Snocoaches gate
The Ice Field Snocoaches gate is closed during buisness hours, but the gate is open in the wee hours. This allows for a alpine start, but you may have to wait for a bus to open the gate to get out during the day.
El Pital, Chalatenango: $2.00 entrace fee for non-locals
This area is on private property at the top of El Pital. There is a $2.00 entrace fee.
Mt. Temple: Hiking Party Size Restrictions may be in effect.
Parks Canada occasionally restricts party size on certain approach/descent trails around Mt. Temple (Paradise Valley/Larch Valley) due to Grizzly Bear activity. It may be necessary to hike in groups of 4 or MORE. Contanct Parks Canada for current restrictions.
Lanaudiere: Many public cliffs are under the liability insurance of the FQME
Residents of Canada need to have:
-FQME 'Accès Montagne' membership (55$)
-For members of the Alpine Club of Canada an FQME 'Accès Montagne' upgrade (30$)
Or purchasing a 10$ day pass.

This money is used to pay the liability insurance for landowners regardless if they are private citizens, municipal or provincial.
The maintenance of cliffs and their access, replacing of fixed protection.

www.fqme.qc.ca
Trestle Tower: Requires trespass (walking across train bridge) to access
Walking across train bridge is technically trespassing. There is no way to reach this crag that does not involve using the train tracks.
Kingston Crag:
This area is on or very close to private land. It is asked that people respect the property and the privacy of the land owners. Please clean up all trash!!
Old Baldy : Permit Required
After having been closed to climbing for several years, Old Baldy is open again, thanks to the efforts of Toronto Section's Access Committee. An agreement is in place with the Grey Sauble Region to allow climbing to take place at Old Baldy. The agreement requires climbers to purchase an annual climbing permit and abide by strict methodologies adopted to minimize environmental impact. To obtain your permit you will need to fax or mail an application to the Grey Sauble Conservation Authority. A copy of the permit application form is available on-line.
Los Perros: Must cross private property - small fee required
There is a private home up the hill and they charge a few bucks for the day to park & climb since you have to go through their property to get there.
Montagne du Tranchant: This cliffs is insured by the FQME
This cliffs is under the liability insurance of the Fédération Québécoise de la Montagne et de l'Escalade (FQME).

Residents of Canada need to have:
-FQME 'Accès Montagne' membership (55$)
-For members of the Alpine Club of Canada an FQME 'Accès Montagne' upgrade (30$)
Or purchasing a 10$ day pass.

This money is used to pay the liability insurance for landowners regardless if they are private citizens, municipal or provincial.
The maintenance of cliffs and their access, replacing of fixed protection.
Laurentians: Many cliffs are under the liability insurance of the FQME
Residents of Canada need to have:
-FQME 'Accès Montagne' membership (55$)
-For members of the Alpine Club of Canada an FQME 'Accès Montagne' upgrade (30$)
Or purchasing a 10$ day pass.

This money is used to pay the liability insurance for landowners regardless if they are private citizens, municipal or provincial.
The maintenance of cliffs and their access, replacing of fixed protection.

www.fqme.qc.ca
Mount Douglas-East Face: Must contact CFB Gagetown Range Control
Mount Douglas is on Canadian Military land. Members of UNB Rock and Ice Club need to call Range Control before going. Non-members must present themselves in person to Range Control and procure a pass at Camp Petersville
Anchor Crag: not sure of property ownership or status
Please respect the area and surrounding residents homes. Try and keep the area clean and keep the noise down especially in the evenings.
Saint-Andre-de-Kamouraska: Parking and daily access fee
To access the parking lot, you must obtain a parking ticket issued by the SEBKA. The annual membership card (2012 : 27,50 $) and the daily ticket (2012 : 7 $) give access to the sea cliffs and are sold at the Reception Pavilion. Please note that dogs are not allowed on the rock climbing site.
L'Amphitheatre: See Saint-André-de-Kamouraska
Dawn Beach Estates Crag: Security gate through Dawn Beach Estates
Security guard may ask for access information to continue into residential area, just say you are visiting friends down the hill.

The area is accessed directly through the yard of a dilapidated house, as the yard backs to the sea cliff. There is no fence or any issues once past the security gate at the top of the hill though.
Montagne d'Argent: Access fees required
Rates are listed on the site website
Free for ACC members
Camping is free for ACC Laurentians section members and CERMA members.
LA HIDROELECTRICA: PRIVATE PROPERTY
ACCESS COST $25.00 PESOS MX
Val-David: Site is under the Parc Régional de Val-David Val-Morin
a daily fee is required to climb, hike, bike etc in the parK, FQME members benefit from a substantial rebate as well as group outings.
www.parcregional.com
Saint Lucia, Petit Piton: Difficult to find.
Difficult to find anything in Saint Lucia, including this trailhead. Locals will recommend you climb it with a guide, or they will show you how to get to the Gros Piton trailhead.
Le Gros Bras: Must pay daily fee to Parc National des Grand-Jardins ( SEPAQ )
Kanata Tremblant: This cliffs is insured by the FQME
Residents of Canada need to have:
-FQME 'Accès Montagne' membership (55$)
-For members of the Alpine Club of Canada an FQME 'Accès Montagne' upgrade (30$)
Or purchasing a 10$ day pass.

This money is used to pay the liability insurance for landowners regardless if they are private citizens, municipal or provincial.
The maintenance of cliffs and their access, replacing of fixed protection.

www.fqme.qc.ca
Julien-Labedan: This cliffs is insured by the FQME
This cliffs is under the liability insurance of the Fédération Québécoise de la Montagne et de l'Escalade (FQME).

Residents of Canada need to have:
-FQME 'Accès Montagne' membership (55$)
-For members of the Alpine Club of Canada an FQME 'Accès Montagne' upgrade (30$)
Or purchasing a 10$ day pass.

This money is used to pay the liability insurance for landowners regardless if they are private citizens, municipal or provincial.
The maintenance of cliffs and their access, replacing of fixed protection.
La pared del Doc.: same access to el Diente
car cost $ 3 dollars us
Lac Blanc: This cliffs is insured by the FQME
This cliffs is under the liability insurance of the Fédération Québécoise de la Montagne et de l'Escalade (FQME).

Residents of Canada need to have:
-FQME 'Accès Montagne' membership (55$)
-For members of the Alpine Club of Canada an FQME 'Accès Montagne' upgrade (30$)
Or purchasing a 10$ day pass.

This money is used to pay the liability insurance for landowners regardless if they are private citizens, municipal or provincial.
The maintenance of cliffs and their access, replacing of fixed protection.
Mont de l'Ours: This site is on the Parc des Grand Jardins SEPAQ
Need to pay a daily fee at the welcome center
www.sepaq.com/pq/grj/
Weir: This cliffs is insured by the FQME
This cliffs is under the liability insurance of the Fédération Québécoise de la Montagne et de l'Escalade (FQME).

Residents of Canada need to have:
-FQME 'Accès Montagne' membership (55$)
-For members of the Alpine Club of Canada an FQME 'Accès Montagne' upgrade (30$)
Or purchasing a 10$ day pass.

This money is used to pay the liability insurance for landowners regardless if they are private citizens, municipal or provincial.
The maintenance of cliffs and their access, replacing of fixed protection.
Weir ice climbs: This cliffs is insured by the FQME
This cliffs is under the liability insurance of the Fédération Québécoise de la Montagne et de l'Escalade (FQME).

Residents of Canada need to have:
-FQME 'Accès Montagne' membership (55$)
-For members of the Alpine Club of Canada an FQME 'Accès Montagne' upgrade (30$)
Or purchasing a 10$ day pass.

This money is used to pay the liability insurance for landowners regardless if they are private citizens, municipal or provincial.
The maintenance of cliffs and their access, replacing of fixed protection.
Kinnaird Bluffs: This area is located above a neighborhood and the bluffs are on private land.
The local climbing guide book, West Kootenay Rock, advises climbers to consider:
-Don't park anywhere on 37th St. or in front of any homes.
-Don't cut through any yards
-Every word climbers say reaches the homes below
-leave dogs at home
Shawbridge: This cliffs is insured by the Fédération Québécoise de la Montagne et de l
This cliffs is under the liability insurance of the Fédération Québécoise de la Montagne et de l'Escalade (FQME).

Residents of Canada need to have:
-FQME 'Accès Montagne' membership (55$)
-For members of the Alpine Club of Canada an FQME 'Accès Montagne' upgrade (30$)
Or purchasing a 10$ day pass.

This money is used to pay the liability insurance for landowners regardless if they are private citizens, municipal or provincial.
The maintenance of cliffs and their access, replacing of fixed protection.
El Pital: summit sport routes: International Border
Be aware that this is on the border between Honduras and El Salvador, and you may encounter border patrols. Be prepared to show your papers.
Val-Belair: Many cliffs are under the liability insurance of the FQME
Residents of Canada need to have:
-FQME 'Accès Montagne' membership (55$)
-For members of the Alpine Club of Canada an FQME 'Accès Montagne' upgrade (30$)
Or purchasing a 10$ day pass.

This money is used to pay the liability insurance for landowners regardless if they are private citizens, municipal or provincial.
The maintenance of cliffs and their access, replacing of fixed protection.

www.fqme.qc.ca
Cap Trinité: In a provincial park
See: Parc marin du Saguenay-Saint- Laurent.
Baie éternité sector
Lac Long: This Cliff is insured for liability by the FQME
All climbers must have:
-FQME 'Accès Montagne' membership (55$)
-For members of the Alpine Club of Canada an FQME 'Accès Montagne' upgrade (30$)
Or purchasing a 10$ day pass.

This money is used to pay the liability insurance for landowners regardless if they are private citizens, municipal or provincial.
The maintenance of cliffs and their access, replacing of fixed protection.
www.fqme.qc.ca
Horne Lake:
There have been access issues in the past, please be respectful and don't camping in the parking area.
Quarry Rock: The Marina and Pirate's Landing: DO NOT walk through the Deep Cove marina
The Deep Cove marina is PRIVATE PROPERTY and they do not want people walking across it to access the base of Quarry Rock. Recently, large signs have been placed here NO TRESPASSING. Hike down from the Quarry Rock viewpoint instead.
The Grid: No climbing west of the Metropolis Boulder
Do not block access to the gate.
Do not explore or climb west of the Metropolis
Boulder.
Asese Boulders : Most boulders on Private Property, but have had no issues thus far, only cheerful waves and curiosity from locals.
Keep it clean, respectful, know enough Spanish to explain why you are climbing on these boulders. (Having any kind of climbing magazine with you to show locals really helps). DO not leave any trace of chalk or disruption of vegetation - could lead to access problems in a city that is already tired of foreigners acting like they own the place.
Dome Mountain: Located of DND/City Property
Area can be accessed through DND training area or trans Labrador.
Bancroft Cottage Boulders: Private Property
Closed-Send a message if you would like to come along next time I go.
Home Cliff: All routes east (climber's right) of Piton Highway are closed to climbing by the NCC. Clifftop access is restricted to the area between Main Corner and Peggy
Tower of Babel: Travel Restrictions
Parks Canada requires people to travel in groups of 4 or more on the Consolation Lakes trail due to active grizzly bear populations in the area.
St-Alban: Water hazard
These routes are in a gorge, 500 meters downstream from a dam. Water levels can rise quickly if the dam floodgates are open so be aware. This area should be avoided if heavy rain is a possibility or following heavy rain or snow melt. Currents can be very swift at all times so swimming is not recommended. There is a mini cave on the footpath leading to the routes, this can be a fun side trip (avoid backpacks in there, tight fit!)5 minute walk from car parking and camping.
Oceania 
Cathedral: Access is difficult because the area has not been visited in recent years.
The Cathedral wall is found past the Rook Area. Ask Aling Norma of any locals that can provide info about getting there.
Mt. Nahnalaud: Private land. Guide required.
Speak to Edgar Santos at the Pohnpei Visitors Bureau, or the hotel staff at Yvonne's or the Village Hotels to obtain a guide for this trek.
South America 
Lapinha: Climbing is controlled
Climbing is only allowed on Sundays and a maximum of 40 climbers are allowed in the area at the same time. Entrance is granted from 9am to 1pm and climbers must leave by 4:30pm.
Anfiteatro:
This area uses private property, hopefully by respecting this, it will never become an issue.
Payande - Colombia: Tricky
You must ask directions with the local climbers it is very easy to get lost
Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta: Local tribes generally don
La Playa Entrada: Military Base Restricitons
Although the climbing is almost all on public land access to the area can tricky.
Las Bandurrias: Private Property
It's in private property but the acces is open to anyone. Camping should be done on the side of the Gran Pared zone.
Viejo Continente: Private Property - No Camping
No camping in this side of the river.
Los Huasamacos del Sur: Private Property - No Camping
The area is in private property. There is no problem with climbing but the owner doesn't want people to camp there.
Falésia Paraíso: Private property with an entrance and camping fee.
This area sits inside a private property. Owner charges R$ 5 (around U$ 2) per day of climbing and the same amount if you decide to camp overnight. There's a toilet near the camping area and an actual restroom at owner's house.
Updated info, routes and topo can be found here: falesiaparaiso.blogspot.com (website maintained by the group that managed authorization for climbing in the area)
Quebrada Verde / Lomas de Lucumo: Closure of "El Caracol"
The area known as "El Caracol" has been closed to climbing due to damage to the the fragile plant community around it. Currently no plans exist to build a trail or reopen the area.
Illimani Massif: Bolivia is unstable
Bolivia is not the stablest of countries. We experienced road blocks and had to bribe some locals with a case of beer. All but the most seasoned mountaineers should consider finding a guide in La Paz.
Macheta: Private property - please be respectful to ensure continued access.
Este lugar es propiedad privada. No ha habido problemas con los propietarios, por favor no dejar basura, ni atraer demasiado la atención. Sea amable con las personas de la zona. Pida permiso para entrar y de las gracias...
Banos Zoologico Sport Climbing: Private property, small day fee for access.
Climbing area is now part of an "adventure park" with a zip line through the gardens, cable car across the 250m high gorge and trails down to the climbing area.
Iowa   more 
Chimney Rocks 
Chimney Rocks: Private property, though in conservation easement.
Ask for permission if at all possible. Take care to minimize all impacts in this Iowa Natural Heritage Foundation (INHF) area. See map; www.inhf.org/destinations/upperiowa/upperiowabend.htm

www.inhf.org/upper-iowa-river-inhf-role.cfm
Dubuque 
Dubuque: Check for Private Property Infringements before climbing
Indian Bluffs 
Indian Bluffs: Closed north of Chimney Rock.
Climbing closed at Black Hawk Wall and between the Gunsight and Chimney Rock. This includes the bolted climb Saving Grace between the Gunsight and Chimney Rock and two bolted climbs on Black Hawk Wall called Wedding Bells and an unnamed route.

More info available at rockclimbing.com:

www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/Iowa>>>
Palisades Kepler State Park 
Palisades Kepler State Park: Registration required.
Register at the Ranger's office before climbing at Palisades Kepler State Park. The registration sign-up box is located outside the door to the ranger's office.
Party Cave: May be Unavailable depending on water level
Due to it hugging the river it may be accessible only through one opening, or not at all if the river is too high.
City of Copper: River level
Access will depend on river levels and currents
Silo Ice Climbing 
Silo Ice Climbing: Organized Place, Limited Climbing Times
This is run by a professor from University of Northern Iowa on the WEEKENDS ONLY. There is an admission cost and designated climbing times. For more info check their website here www.siloiceclimbing.com/index.php
Wildcat Den (respect closure) 
Wildcat Den (respect closure): Closed to climbing
According to the Iowa DNR website, all forms of rock climbing and rappelling are prohibited at Wildcat Den.

The following link has details regarding closures at other Iowa parks.

www.iowadnr.gov/Recreation/CampingFacilityRentals/RulesRegul>>>

Please respect the closure at all Iowa parks. Climbing in prohibited areas jeopardizes our approved access in other areas.
MORE 
Backbone State Park: No bolts.
Dows Preserve: No bolts.
Ledges State Park: Closed.
Maquoketa Caves State Park: Closed.
Mines of Spain: Possibly closed.
Wildcat Den State Park: Closed.
Yellow River State Forest: No bolts.
Kansas   more 
Elepant Rock Southwest 
Elepant Rock Southwest: Private Property
I have been out to this beautiful arch to climb it once and the owner didn't care as long as we were respectful.
Kanopolis Lake  
Kanopolis Lake : Private Property
Kentucky   Red River Gorge, more 
Red River Gorge 
Roadside Crag (CLOSED): Closed to Climbing
Roadside Crag is closed to climbing until further notice. Do not further jeopardize access by trespassing.
Dip Wall: Partial closure due to historical and archaeological sites.
The USFS has closed a number of routes because they are located in close proximity to historical and archaeological sites. The following routes are closed indefinitely: Cindy Lou's Left Tube Seuss Seuss Sudio Fox in Locks.

Be aware, there may be more.
The Amusement Park: This area is located on private land overlooking Slade.
Permission and access can be gained at Red River Outdoors. This is typically a guiding area and not open to the public at this time.
The Heights: Open with restrictions - Private Property
It is legal to park along the road near Tunnel Ridge Road, but you will be trespassing at the bouldering area. It is not posted, and access has never been an issue, but many people live within earshot of this place. If you go, please be quiet and responsible and don't take dogs or large groups. Be discreet.
Midnight Surf: Muir Valley access
Muir Valley is owned by Rick Weber, please respect the area. We are very fortunate to be allowed into the valley. Follow the trails, don't shortcut, use the bathrooms in the parking lot. don't leave ANYTHING behind (except maybe your skin and ego)
Hen's Nest Rock: Endangered species
There may be closures for endangered species under Sultans of Stem which also include Close to the Edge and Finger Lickin' Good. Check with the USFS before climbing these routes.
The Crossroads: This area is within the PMRP which is private property owned by the RRGCC.
Visit www.rrgcc.org prior to visiting.
Camp Store Crag: This wall is in Private property. Be respectful.
This wall is in Private property. Be respectful. Your behavior on this land can either help us secure access.. or help us lose it.
MORE 
Cumberland Falls State Park : Closed.
Devil's Sidesaddle: Closed.
Greencastle Cliffs : Closed.
Lake Malone State Park : Closed.
Natural Bridges State Park: Closed.
Pennyrile Forest State Park: Closed.
Young's Ferry, Green River: Closed.
Maine   Acadia National Park, more 
Bangor Area Buildering 
Bangor Area Buildering: Usually climbing buildings is frowned upon by police, security, the general public and your mom.
Watch out. There is no need to climb a building in a situation where you feel like you may get caught. The more people that are caught buildering, the more people that will be on the watch for builderers. In trying to establish new routes, scout out the line of least resistance, and give a shot when you least expect to be caught. LEAVE NO TRACE, as if it were Maine's last remaining forest. The more traces, the more people will notice builderers.
Old Town: Same access issues as before.... Most people simply do not like it.
University of Maine Campus: Umaine police, and staff are very very common on campus.
I have yet to interact with any faculty, or Umaine police in regards to climbing buildings on campus grounds. BUT, if they treat it anything like they treat skateboarding you would rather not talk to them.
Bradbury Mt. State Park 
The Cornerstone:
The boulders at Bradbury are close to the border of the State Park but not quite. Please keep a low profile here. The landowner apparently does not mind climbing here as long as the area is kept quiet and clean.
Southern Boulder Patch: Private Property
Like the rest of the boulders, these are on private property.
Castine 
Castine: Most of the cliffs top out into private property.
All the cliffs except for one top out into private residences of summer people. Be sure to secure permission from the land owner before rigging a top rope or transiting their land.

Most summer people are gone after October and don't return till June.
Clifton Crags 
Eagle Bluff: Your help needed to keep this crag open!
In partnership with the Clifton Climber's Alliance, Access Fund holds an Option Agreement through August 2014 to purchase the crag for permanent conservation and public access. Access Fund also holds a lease agreement to address the landowner's concerns about liability and access is re-allowed after the 8-month closure. Please donate at www.accessfund.org/eaglebluff today
Fort Williams  
Fort Williams : Gates close at sunset
Gates close at sunset make sure you don't get locked in or you may be spending the night
Katahdin 
Katahdin: Winter climbing/hiking/mountaneering requires a permit
Mt Kineo 
Mt Kineo: Access Issue: Private Property
This area sits above an active semi-private resort in front and State land behind. Access currently requires boating as the closest land approach is blocked by a lake.
Prosject 
Prosject: Private Land
This is private land not open to public climbing, currently.
Royal River Bouldering 
Park St. Public Way: Park at the Royal River Park.
Do not park along Park Street.
MORE 
Bald Head Cliff : Closed.
Maryland   more 
Baltimore City Watershed 
Baltimore City Watershed: Watershed property
Baltimore City owns the property, and they are not wholly receptive to climbers. The noted areas and routes herein this guide are for historical purposes only. Should you chose to climb here, it's at your own risk.
Harper's Ferry 
Train Tunnel Wall: Train Property
While the climbing at the cliff is allowed (get a permit in town) accessing the "pit" via the steel ladder may not be. If climbing here keeping a low profile in the pit (stay off the rim of the pit) is recommended.
Loudon Heights: Parking and walking access are sensitive. Rockfall is also an issue.
The parking is strictly regulated. Access via the main entrance trail appears to be discouraged. Rockfall from the cliffs in this area could roll into the highway.
Herzog Island 
Herzog Island: It's an island
Herzog Island can be easily waded to when the water is low upstream from Carderock, but wading in the Potomac is frowned upon by park rangers. Bring a canoe if you want to adhere to the letter of the law.
Patapsco State Park 
Friction Wall: Use discrestion while on the approach via the tracks (CSX property)
While the actual cliff of Friction Wall is on park property the longstanding approach via the train tracks is private. While climbers have been tolerated in the past, be discreet, park legally, and above all do not walk on the tracks!
Woodstock Rock: Use discrestion while on the approach via the tracks (CSX property)
While the actual Woodstock cliff is on park property the longstanding approach via the train tracks is private. Since the train derailment in Ellicott City (9/2012) CSX police presents has increased. It is possible and suggested to walk the steep hill side instead of the tracks.
Sugarloaf Mountain 
Sugarloaf Mountain: Private Land-gate closed and locked by nightfall.
Sugarloaf is a privately owned recreation area. The park is closed at night and the gate is locked. Allow enough time to pack, hike, and drive out the oneway road to the gate before it is locked.
Middle Earth: Seasonal Bird Nesting Closure
This area is a nesting site for ravens. The landowners ask that climbers avoid the climbs/areas where ravens are nesting. The nesting period generally lasts from mid May to late June/early July. During this time, observe any closure signs.
The Pillar: Sugarloaf is privately owned but allows climbing. You need to be out of the gates before dark.
MORE 
Catoctin State Park: Closed.
Massachusetts   more 
Bunyan Mountain 
Bunyan Mountain: Private Property
Per Avalon and Brian: this is on private property and can not be accessed legally without permission.
Cape Ann 
Arrowhead Cliff: Closed
Per jim.dangle: public access has been lost to this area.

The pull-off on Concord St. mentioned in the area description above is now clearly posted with a "No Trespassing" sign and should be avoided. Though the cliff itself is part of the the Great Ledges property of the Essex County Greenbelt Association, it is completely encircled by private land and the access granted to the ECGA does not extend to the public.
Mop Gripping Quarry: Private Property
This is on private property.
Hesperus: Listed as "Private Property" in Boston Rocks
Farley Ledge 
Farley Ledge: Private Property with limited allowed access. Do NOT add routes here.
The climbing is on private land the landowner (not the local climbers) is requesting that climbers do not publish information on the routes at Farley Ledge. The Western Mass Climbers Coalition folks are trying to help assure that the landowner's wishes are respected, and users are requested NOT to post route information on Mountain Project.

Since Farley is all on private land, the owners have the ability to take access away at any time if they feel that overcrowding is happening. And they are sensitive to this overcrowding and watching it.

In order to protect the access that we do have at Farley, we are taking down route information should be taken down in order to respect the landowner's wishes.

The WMCC is working on a longer-term solution for the area, and will make information more readily available so that folks understand the issues and don't feel that access is being restricted simply to keep the area sacred to the locals.

Portions of Farley Ledge are also now closed for peregrines. The Zen Garden and the Four Tiers are open, but in between is closed (Courtroom, Main Slab, Pinnacle, Yellow Wall, K2 area, and the Balcony.
Zen Garden: Peregrine closures
Portions of Farley Ledge are also now closed for peregrines. The Zen Garden and the Four Tiers are open, but in between is closed (Courtroom, Main Slab, Pinnacle, Yellow Wall, K2 area, and the Balcony).
House Rock 
House Rock: open from dusk to dawn
town owned park
Lynn Woods 
Golf Course Boulders: Only go here in the Winter when there are no golfers.
Boxcar Boulder : Access is unclear
Neighbors have called the cops in the past and climbers have been directed by Lynn's finest to leave this area with guns drawn.
Mormon Hollow 
Mormon Hollow: Raven Closure
Raven Closure until June 15th: Right side of crag, Priaprism Buttress, closed beginning at the 5.7 "warm-up" route. The rest of cliff open.
Underworld Boulders 
Underworld Boulders: Borders and may be on some private property.
Some boulders may be on private property.
MORE 
Echo Bridge: Closed.
Purgatory Chasm State Park: Partially open.
Western Quarries: Possibly closed.
Michigan   more 
Kalamazoo Buildering 
Kalamazoo Buildering: Private property, University Property...etc.
as with all buildering you are operating at your own risk. Each area has its own " bust potential." A bicycle will assist in traveling between areas.

Charlotte 
Charlotte: Buildering may be private property
Marquette 
Echo Lake: NO CLIMBING.
THe Nature conservancy own an easement on the land that allows for wilderness type recreation and any climbing of repelling is currently banned.
R.O.T.C. Rock: Owned by the Marquette Board of Light and Power
Officially climbing and rappelling is not allowed on ROTC how ever this area is used by the Northern Michigan Reserve Officers Training Corps. The R.O.T.C has anchors located at the top of the crag for abseiling. These anchors are in a locked box. -DO NOT ATTEMPT TO USE THESE ANCHORS OR CLIMB WHILE THE ROTC IS IN THE AREA!!!!-
The AAA Walls : PRIVATE PROPERTY: CLOSED
Due to liability concerns, the AAA Walls are currently closed. Upper Peninsula Climbers Coalition and the Access Fund are working to find a solution with the private landowner. Please respect the closure and stay tuned for updates.
MORE 
Marquette area- Presque Isle Park: Closed.
Red Ridge 
Red Ridge: Private Property
Top access from "Little Red" is on private land, but access to ice is protected by Michigan's Right to Walk law.
Minnesota   Barn Bluff (Red Wing), more 
BC's Wilderness Challenge (BWCAW) 
BC's Wilderness Challenge (BWCAW): The only access to this wall is by canoe or kayak
This wall is within the wilderness area of the BWCA (Boundary Waters) and requires a canoe or kayak and obtaining a permit for the stay, but definitely worth the extra effort for the variety of climbs / difficulties. The access point is 50 miles northwest of
Grand Marais, Minnesota on Gun Flint Trail. A fee of $16.00 per person for up to 14 days is charged April-September.
Canidae Cliff (Hammond) 
Canidae Cliff (Hammond):

As of now, Canidae Cliff is officially closed for climbing.

Duluth Rock (Duluth) 
Point O' Rocks: Private land closed to climbing
Technically closed to climbing. Some folks still climb here so if you choose to, be discrete and leave if you are asked.
Crimpy Face Crag: Restricted Access
This is not private property but setting up top-ropes involves walking along the train tracks which is not legal. Be discrete and respect the land owner's requests to leave the premises.
Avery Boulder: Restricted Access: Private Property
To access the climbing, one must cross train tracks which are private property. Keep a low profile.
Saddlestones: as with all of Ely
Park at the Ely's Peak climbing lot. Go up the wood stairs and take a right at the top. You will go past trailside boulders. When you get to the train tunnel take the "lower" left. Take this main trail (do not take any offshoots) until you see an opening in the brush and a large cliff line is exposed. This line goes for about 150ft or so
Ely's Peak (Duluth) 
Ely's Peak (Duluth): Access Restriction: Parking
Land owner at the end of 123rd Ave W. Make sure to park in the new climber's parking lot, NOT AT THE OLD MUNGER TRAIL. The land owner still feels that he owns all of this land (not true) so stick to the climbers trail and climbing areas and you'll be fine.
Gooseberry / Silver Creek (North Shore) 
Silver Creek Tunnel: Private Property: Open (with restrictions)
This area is overseen by MNDOT. Keep a low profile and stay off of the highway. Stay off of the obvious climb in the dihedral where the tunnel meets the highway. Also note, the top is private property.
Indoor Walls 
St. Paul: University of Minnesota Climbing Wall: UofM Students or Gym Members Only
Access information included at both these links.

www.recsports.umn.edu/membership/
www.recsports.umn.edu/coa/wall.html
Kawishiwi River (BWCAW) 
Kawishiwi River (BWCAW): BWCA permits required
Day or overnight permits are required for all visitors of the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness. Reservations can be made in advance here

Be advised that bouldering activity and chalk use within BWCA has a potential to be viewed as harmful to the unique vegetation within the Park. When in doubt, consult the Rangers.
Mankato Area (Mankato) 
Mankato Area (Mankato): Private Property: Open (with restrictions)
Climbing in Mankato is currently operating under a don't ask don't tell policy. It is imperative that climbers in Mankato keep an incredibly low profile at every destination entered.
Judson Bottom Road: Private Property: Open (with restrictions)
Climbing in this area may or may not be trespassing but nothing is posted. Local authorities say the top of the cliffs are private land and the city owns the land below the cliffs. Climbing is legal but aware of restrictions.
The Lonely Boulder: Lonely Boulder Property Lines
The Lonely Boulder's property lines are unknown, it may be park, it may be private property. Just in case, I recommend approaching from the East (downside of the hill). Be respectful and keep the usual low profile! :)
Minneopa Falls (Minneopa State Park): Pass Required
Make sure you check with rangers before climbing the falls. You do not need a special permit but they appreciate it if you let them know you plan to climb. You will also need a MN state parks annual or daily pass to park your vehicle (mandatory.)
Sandstone 
Sax Wall: Above walls is private property so unless you want to tangle with railroad lawyers, maintain low profile.
Banning State Park: Currently only specific parts of park are open. Permit required.
Banning State Park has only recently chosen to allow rock climbing (Summer 2014). Currently climbing is only allowed in designated areas. For the most up to date access information, ask at the park office where you can also obtain a (free) climbing permit which is required. Please be extra respectful of this area so climbing continues to be allowed and hopefully expanded to other areas. Keep cleaning to a minimum and be respectful of other park guest. Many of the climbs are along trails so please move pads (especially sketchy/unstable pads) or make sure guests know they can step on them when passing by.
Stillwater Ice (Stillwater) 
Stillwater Ice (Stillwater): Private property.
Available at courtesy of the owner. Please keep low profile and be respectful of the local residents.
Swede's Forest 
Swede's Forest: When climbing in Swede's Forest, stay out of the Kung Fu Boulders area. It is a private property closed to climbing.
Kung Fu Boulders are located on private land at the south end of Swede's Forest. The owners reportedly placed signs at the DNR sign, but they keep getting torn down. The area is used for hunting and shooting and the owners expressed concern about possible risks to trespassers or dogs. The clearly visible fence line marks the border.
Kung Fu Boulders: This area is on private property and is currently closed to climbing.
The WAZ (Rochester) 
The WAZ (Rochester): Currently off limits to climbers
Twin Cities Ice (MSP/STP) 
Twin Cities Ice (MSP/STP): Access Restriction: Permit Required
Be respectful and minimize your impact. St. Paul parks require that you obtain an annual ice climbing permit. The permit requires a signed waiver and a fee. There has been dialogue with the city about this requirement and many climbers do not agree with the fee. For more information on this access issue see discussions on MN forums.

See the following website for more information:
www.stpaul.gov/index.asp?NID=1402

Lilydale Park aka The Brickyards: Permit Required
This is a St. Paul park and they require that you obtain an annual ice climbing permit. The permit requires a signed waiver and a fee. www.stpaul.gov/index.asp?NID=1402

There has been a dialogue with the city about this requirement and many climbers do not agree with them charging a fee. For more information on this there have been several discussions on MN forums.
Crosby Park: Permit Required
This is a St. Paul park and they require that you obtain an annual ice climbing permit. The permit requires a signed waiver and a fee. www.stpaul.gov/index.asp?NID=1402

There has been a dialogue with the city about this requirement and many climbers do not agree with them charging a fee. For more information on this there have been several discussions on MN forums.
Shadow Falls: Permit Required
This is a St. Paul park and they require that you obtain an annual ice climbing permit. The permit requires a signed waiver and a fee. www.stpaul.gov/index.asp?NID=1402

There has been a dialogue with the city about this requirement and many climbers do not agree with them charging a fee. For more information on this there have been several discussions on MN forums.
ivy falls: walk on water /ice stay off land
there is a parking lot you can aget to from hwy 13.
Wolf Ridge ELC Area (North Shore) 
Wolf Ridge ELC Area (North Shore): Private property
Make sure to check in with Wolf Ridge ELC to let them know you are climbing and stick to established trails. Wolf Ridge is happy to let climbers use their property but avoid the beach if there are groups/children and do not use any of their gear (canoes, backboard, etc.)
Missouri   Trapper's Camp, Warsaw, more 
Andromeda Sprain 
Andromeda Sprain: CLOSED
This area is considered CLOSED by both the landowner who owns the fields above and the park service, who may have rights to the cliff, as it is along the Katy Trail.
Katy Cliff: Closed
This area is considered CLOSED by both the landowner who owns the fields above and the park service, who may have rights to the cliff, as it is along the Katy Trail.
Cedar Creek 
Cedar Creek: Mark Twain National Forest
Respect all private lands bordering national forest.
Easley Quarry Area 
Easley Quarry Area: Closed Private Lands
Johnson Shut-ins 
Johnson Shut-ins: State Park Permit Required
Check in with the park office and gain a permit.
Mine Lamotte (AKA The Off-Sets) 
Mine Lamotte (AKA The Off-Sets): Private - requires access fee
Pinnacles Youth Park 
Pinnacles Youth Park: State Natural Area
Respect private lands surrounding the designated natural area. The area is managed by the foundation’s board of directors. Donations are desired.
Scheuler's Ferry 
Scheuler's Ferry: Closed
Ferry parking still exists but is limited. Access by the Osage River provides many trees for boats to be tied. Respect private homes, yards and hunting areas. Take notice to all posted signs.
Sparta 
Sparta: National Forest Land
National Forest Land available for hiking and bouldering. Ask local climbers about public access boulders and respect all posted signs and private land owners.
The Forgotten Wall 
The Forgotten Wall: Closed
Parking area blocked to limit access, liability, and reduce trash dumping.
Wilton 
Wilton: Closed
Do not park on S River Road.
MORE 
Mississippi: Henley Wall: Closed.
Montana   Gallatin Canyon, more 
Barretts 
Barretts: Access crosses private bridge and land.
Please keep a low profile as access to this neat area would be sketchy at best, given the approach across a private bridge and potential land owner conflicts.

Leave no trace, keep the noise level to a minimum, don’t build any fires and respect all closed gates and fences. Be nice and respectful to any land owners and/or locals. Thank you.
Blue Cloud 
Blue Cloud: Keep the gates closed!
There are two gates along the access road. Please close these as you pass through them to avoid conflict with landowners.
Bozeman Pass 
Bozeman Pass: Dont park on the Interstate (go totrail creek exit)
Drive a little past climbing area and pull off at trailcreek exit. go under the interstate and turn left drive as short distance and park just past the pink house ad right near the old cattle dock.
Frog Rock 
Frog Rock: Approach crosses private property
The first 0.6 miles of the approach crosses private land that has a conservation easement currently. Be respectful, stay on the trail and don't leave trash. After the 0.6 miles you're on Forest Service land (there is a sign).
Humbug Spires 
Humbug Spires: Road closed December 2 to May 15
The Humbug Spires are part of the Humbug Spires Wilderness Study Area managed by the Bureau of Land Management. The road is closed to motorized vehicles from December 2 to May 15. The use of power drills is prohibited.
Hyalite Canyon 
Hyalite Canyon: Potential road closures in winter.
Visit www.hyalite.org for updates.
Kila Crags 
Kila Crags: Private Property: Open (with restrictions)
Please be respectful of the climbing area and minimize your impact. Access is open but keep a low profile.

The trail leading to the upper wall (just west of Psychology wall) is slowly wearing away. The trail actually continues past the large Ponderosa instead of leading straight up the talus/dirt slope. Please be mindful as we would like to climb here for years to come!
Upper Wall: Trail Erosion!!!!!!!
The trail leading to the upper wall (just west of Psychology wall) is slowly wearing away. The trail actually continues past the large Ponderosa instead of leading straight up the talus/dirt slope. Please be mindful as we would like to climb here for years to come!
Kootenai Canyon 
Kootenai Canyon: Private Property 1st half mile
Stick to the trail for the first half mile, and use approach trails to get up to the crags
Lolo Pass Area 
Lolo Pass Area: Many of the logging road have been "returned to nature"
Usually you can find parking on the road and walk the old logging roads to the crags.
Mulkey Gulch 
Mulkey Gulch: Private Property
Mulkey Gulch is located on private property and must be accessed by a dirt two-track through private property. Please be respectful and only use the road in good conditions to prevent tearing it up and having access to this climbing closed. Also, as always use leave no trace ethics when at the climbing area!
Paradise Valley 
Allenspur: New access to Allenspur climbing
June 2009 Update: There have been recent new developments in climbers access to Allenspur. For years the "Red Barn Antiques" property (now under new ownership) has been off-limits for use to approach the crags- all access has been via the Harper property easement. The current owners, however, are interested allowing climbers to hike to the crags via a more direct trail across the southern end of their property. The SMCC and the landowners have entered into a one-year trial period for SMCC Members and their guests to use this new approach.

For more info and photos:

www.montanaclimbers.org/access/allenspur
Rattler Gulch 
Divers Wall: Private property
This area is only private land, although climbing is allowed. Please park up the road and walk back down to the crag, and keep the land clean.
Tobacco Root Mountains 
Cattlemen's cliff: Private Property Crossed
Be courteous when crossing the Cattlemen's range house so the approach is not shut down.
Mason Lake: Private Property in the area
To access the Mason lake and the surrounding boulders you must first drive in on the Cataract Lake road which is public access through private land. Please don't climb any rock until reaching the BLM public lands sign. The sign is located at a cattle guard and an enormous boulder beside the road. All rock beyond this point is on public lands and is fair game.
Yankee Jim  
Yankee Jim : National Forrest
Nevada   Mt. Charleston, Red Rock, more 
Arrow Canyon 
Arrow Canyon: Read driving directions carefully.
This area has had access trouble in the past. The way in used to cross private property. Apparently the landowner has been contacted and he has proposed a way to get to Arrow without crossing his land. Please follow the directions closely so as to avoid his land. Also if you get your car stuck, try everything possible to avoid going to his house for help.
Red Rock 
Monkey Bar Boulder: Be sure to park along the paved road, and NOT on the private driveways!
The Promised Land: Wilderness Study Area
No bolting is currently allowed at this area or any of the surrounding limestone cliffs. There is currently a proposed amendment to the land management plan that would allow bolting, but it has not yet been approved.
Reno - Carson City 
Sommerset Boulders: Access Restrictions: Construction Zone
Leave no trace, keep a low profile, and park off the street.
Verdi Boulders: Long Hike w/small section of private property on the approach
On the approach, from the parking spot the first 1/5 mile or so is most likely on Private property. We don't condone trespassing but we've never had a problem moving quickly and purposefully, do so at your own risk of course.
Cave Rock: Closed to climbing.
Closed to climbing. Bolts have been removed. Don't even boulder in the area.
MORE 
Lake Tahoe - Cave Rock: Closed.
New Hampshire   *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing, Cannon Cliff , more 
*NH Ice and Alpine Climbing 
Trollville (Duckshead): Parking
Park carefully and quietly!!!
Polar Caves (CLOSED): Private Property
Holts Ledge: Dartmouth Skiway D.O.C. parking lot for non skiers. This is mandatory parking to know your at the ledges.
Holts ledge is being ice climbed without issues. What has changed radically is the approach. Presently access is only by going up from the Dartmouth Skiway D.O.C. parking lot for non skiers. This is mandatory parking to know your at the ledges. Access is by the Papoose cross country ski trail to get there. I didn't know of this trail or I would have notified MP of this place long ago. Access became a issue in the late 1980's when there was private land development. Anyway are enough of us to find out anymore details from the D.O.C. about climbing there.
Albany Slabs 
Albany Slabs: Private Property
Access may be private.
Band M (CLOSED) 
Band M (CLOSED): CLOSED UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE
Access through private sand & gravel works. The crag itself is on public land but access is unknown.
Kancamagus Crags 
Painted Walls: Seasonal Raptor Closure
The USFS issued a temporary closure due to nesting peregrine falcons. The closure should last from April through July. For more info, see www.fs.usda.gov/alerts/whitemountain/alerts-notices/?aid=109>;>;>;
Woodchuck Ledge: Seasonal Raptor Closure
The USFS issued a temporary closure due to nesting peregrine falcons. The closure should last from April through July. For more info, see www.fs.usda.gov/alerts/whitemountain/alerts-notices
Lake Potanipo 
Lake Potanipo: Private Property?
This land is owned/adjacent to a summer camp.
Madison Boulder 
Madison Boulder: please do not bolt
Massabesic Lake (a.k.a. Lake Ledges)(Auburn NH) 
Massabesic Lake (a.k.a. Lake Ledges)(Auburn NH): Manchester Water Supply
All access notes are marked at each entrance.
Pickledish 
Pickledish: This area is now closed by the land owner
Landowners in Lyme have closed the area known as Pickledish Ledges east of the Dartmouth Skiway on the Windslow side to the public. There were reports of climbers pooping in the trail and not respecting the area
Pickledish Wall: This area s now closed by the land owner
Landowners in Lyme have closed the area known as Pickledish Ledges east of the Dartmouth Skiway on the Windslow side to the public. There were reports of climbers pooping in the trail and not respecting the area
Rumney 
Black Jack Boulders: Part of This area is on Private Property
Note - A of the Black Jack boulders west of and including the Moat Boulder are on private property. The property line runs from the road where the trail near pole # 39 runs along the stream up between the Zig-zag Boulder and the Moat Boulder, up to a point just below Starship Enterprise Crag. It then runs west to the Boundary Boulder, where it then turns and runs up hill through part of the Prudential Crag.

The owner is climber friendly, but obviously visitors should be on their best guest behavior. Keep your voices down, don't leave trash, old tarps or wood pallets under the boulders. Particularly, do not bellow profanities. The noise carries right down to his house which is below and can be quite tiresome. This is his property and you are on it at his discretion.
The North West Territories: Private Property
This crag as well as all the Black Jack boulders west of and including the Moat Boulder are on private property. The owner is climber friendly, but obviously visitors should be on their best guest behavior. Keep your voices down, don't leave trash, old tarps or wood pallets under the boulders. Particularly, do not bellow profanities. The noise carries right down to his house which is below the crag and can be quite tiresome. This is his property and you are on it at his discretion.
The Northwest Passage: Private Property
Please keep your noise down (no bellowing) as the gully acts like a big loudspeaker to the houses below. Remember you are a guest.
Thompson Farm  
Thompson Farm : Parking is very limited if entering the property from Packers Falls Road @ Wiswall Road.
The easiest way to get to the area is from the trail from Packers Falls road right across the street from Wiswall Road. If pulling onto Wiswall from packers falls, park along the property on the right. It has been said the the owner of the house on the left side of the road is a bit grouchy. The trail system allows for other approaches likely with more parking, but at the expense of time.
MORE 
Polar Caves: Closed.
Stonehouse Pond: Open
New Jersey   more 
Garrett Mountain 
Garrett Mountain: Access Uncertain
The Flakes area is about 100 yards uphill from a police station. Climbers must be discrete, keep quiet, no super bright colors, etc.

The first developer of this area has been bouldering at the Flakes since the late 1990's. The Flakes is in the woods and somewhat obscured from easy viewing down the hill. Keeping a low profile is essential to maintain the use of this area.
Parsippany Rock House 
Parsippany Rock House: near residences
this area has several houses nearby, never had a problem, climbed here for years
New Mexico   El Rito, Enchanted Tower, more 
Albuquerque Area Climbing 
Shield: Seasonal Falcon Closure
The Shield is closed from February through mid-August for peregrine falcon nesting. The Knife Edge is open year-round.
Juan Tabo Canyon: Juan Tabo Canyon is subject to annual access closures from March 1 to August 15.
The USFS-imposed closure applies to UNM Spire, the Prow, the Ramp, and the Shield (but not the Knife Edge). The Needle, and its south and east approaches, are unaffected.
The Temple: Access road(NM 165) may be closed during winter months
Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding Crags 
Capulin Canyon: This is a wilderness area that adjoins Bandelier National Monument.
Standard Forest Service Wilderness guidelines apply. No power drills.
Enchanted Tower 
Enchanted Tower: Thompson Canyon
The gate to Thompson Canyon's southern end is locked and is no longer a viable option for short and convenient access. The standard access is now via the longer, rougher Davenport Lookout/Thompson Canyon route.

New Mexico CRAG (NMCRAG) will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if it can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure, spread the word and don't attempt to drive through the private ranch.
Jemez Valley Area 
Jemez Cave (a.k.a. Crystal Cave): Closed Permanently for Sensitive Archaeological Resources
The Forest Service issued a temporary closure of Jemez Cave (a.k.a. Crystal Cave) to all public access in order to perform an archaeological survey. For all intents and purposes, this temporary closure order should be considered a _permanent_ closure order.
Impacts to the cave’s nationally significant archeological resources are the major concern. The Access Fund continues to work with New Mexico Climbers’ Resource and Advocacy Group (NM CRAG), local climbers, and the US Forest Service to address this issue.
Las Cruces Area Climbing 
Bear Boulders: Area Closed
Bear Boulder and the area known as Flame Thrower (on the ridge behind Bear Boulder)are closed to climbing per the land owner, the Chihuahuan Desert Nature Park. This closure has been made fairly recently and the CDNP is posting signs to notify visitors that climbing on their preserve is prohibited.
The Columns South: Area Not Open to public access
This crag is on NMSU property and is not open for public access. I am sure you could contact someone at NMSU for permission, but do not know who that is exactly.
The Columns North: Not open to public access, NMSU land
The columns are lcoated on property owned by NMSU and used for research studies. No public access available at this time, although if you could find out who to contact at NMSU you might be able to get permissions.
Los Alamos & White Rock 
Hospital Crag: This crag may lie on DOE property; by climbing here you may be trespassing
New Mexico Navajolands 
Ship Rock: Ship Rock is located on the Navajo Nation, and currently climbing is ILLEGAL on the Navajo Nation; including Ship Rock.
According to the most recently published guide on Ship Rock ("Desert Rock", and "50 Classics.."), Ship Rock was placed off limits to climbing in 1967, but the ban was not enforced until 1970, following an accident. Since 1970, some people have made clandestine ascents without incident. Others climbing on the Navajo Nation have had their gear confiscated or been fined- it is unclear what the specific consequences would be if confronted by Navajo authorities. It is unclear if one can get permission to climb here from someone with the appropriate authority to legitimize climbing here.
Some climbers have talked to locals, especially the grazing-permit holders, and respectfully asked permission, and have had really positive experiences, climbing as well as a cultural experience, at other places on the Navajo Nation.

It is probably legal to drive to the base. It is supposedly illegal to camp there, however widespread litter suggests that this is a popular "party spot" (which may be deterrent in of itself). It is illegal to collect or remove rocks on the Navajo Nation, without a permit.

This area is included for historical purposes mainly, and as a location to put those amazing photos everyone has.
New Mexico Navajolands: Climbing on the Navajo Nation is ILLEGAL.
While some have made clandestine ascents in the area without incident, others climbing on the Navajo Nation have had their gear confiscated or have been fined. It is unclear what the specific consequences would be if confronted by Navajo authorities. It is unclear if one can get permission to climb here from someone with the appropriate authority to legitimize climbing here. Some climbers have talked to locals, especially the grazing-permit holders, and respectfully asked permission, and have had really positive experiences, climbing as well as a cultural experience, in some areas on the Navajo Nation.

This area is included for historical purposes mainly, and as a location to put those amazing photos everyone has.
New Mexico, I-40 Corridor 
Tucumcari Mountain: Private Land
Although Tucumcari Mountain is technically private land, most of the best climbing is found on the Eastern side which is owned by a cattle company and I have never seen anyone asked to leave.
New Mexico, other Northern Areas 
Brazos Cliffs: The Cliffs are on private property. Access is restricted.
In the past, the Los Alamos Mountaineers had access to this cliff, but this is no longer the case. Some have suggested trying to request permission through Corkins Lodge. Access and climb at your own risk!
New Mexico, other Southern Areas 
Last Chance Canyon: Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility.
The Lincoln National Forest Service continues its ban on bolting new routes (or, by permission only). However, climbing is currently allowed in all areas of Last Chance Canyon.
Taos Area 
Questa Dome: Wilderness Area
"Climbers or others may not use power drills to place permanent fixed anchors". The BLM has the authority to manage climbing activities in Wilderness Areas. Although climbing generally does not require an authorization permit, BLM may require a permit for climbing and activities associated with climbing on public lands. As established by the Wilderness Act and the BLM’s regulations on management of designated Wilderness Areas found in 43 CFR 6302, climbers or others may not use power drills to place permanent fixed anchors in non-emergency situations. Climbers may use hand-powered drills to place permanent fixed anchors. Appendix 1 lists some of the relevant BLM authorities that apply to climbing in Wilderness Areas.
Tres Piedras: Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver.
The remainder are on US Forest Service land. A map detailing the public areas can be obtained from the ranger station en route to the rocks from the village of Tres Piedras.
According to Jan Studebaker: "The property line runs from approximately the current east corner by the access gate in a straight line over the top of South Rock to the top middle of the Chicken Heads/Mosaic Wall mount, and from there west down the mount slope to the meadow just south of the Alley climbs. Some of the most popular routes are completely on private property. There are survey markers on the top of South rock (the mysterious aluminum stake stuck in the rock) and on top of the Mosaic rock (most of the time buried in water in a pot hole.)"

A new online Tres Piedras Route Guide from LA Mountaineers has been updated with the latest access information, and should be read by all Tres Piedras climbers. Group climb leaders, and Climbing Directors (future or past) should take particular note. From the guide:

Access Notes: Tres Piedras climbers should sign the waiver found on this page because the popular South Rock is mostly on private land, as is some of the access to the area. The landowner, requests a waiver, NO fires, no chalk and "please close any gates".

In order to nurture greater landowner acceptance of climbers, participants of group climbs are requested to organize quick clean up activities before leaving the area; this should include the climbing area as well as the access roads (trip leaders could supply plastic grocery bags). Small parties should practice "leave no trace" principles.

On August 19, 2009 the landowner stated: "Yes I still own the property, and yes I'd still like to have waivers on hand - even or perhaps especially from your organization. Only once in awhile do I have problems with climbers, mostly not picking up after themselves. My biggest gripe is that despite repeated requests, the climbers don't remove protection (edit: colored webbing, shiny hardware) from the climbing routes, which is both lazy and unattractive. Your organization could do me a big favor by doing a group climb and removing the crap that others have left on the various routes so that it is both a pristine part of the landscape, and so that each climber must figure out his own route without relying on the handiwork of others."
Wild and Scenic: Caution: Poison-Ivy
Poison-ivy is ubiquitous along the rivers edge up to the highwater mark. Careful, if you are close enough to identify it, you are likely standing in it.
Mavericks: Closed. You will be cited if parked at trailhead.
If you get ticketed for parking on the side of the road near the trailhead, its only a $5 fee you put a bill in and drop it in the drop box at the roadside camping area 2 miles west.

However, if you get caught on Maverick, you get fined a larger sum and/or arrested.
Probe 1: Probe 1 is closed to rock climbing.
Rock climbing is not legal on the Colin Neblett WMA, which includes this section of Cimarron Canyon.
Ground Up Wall: Caution: Poion Ivy
Be aware and able to identify this plant. It is mainly in the highwater zone. If you see it close by, you are likely standing in it.
Flowing Chi Wall: Poison Ivy
Leaves of three let it be, White berry be wary
Upper Rio Puerco Valley 
Upper Rio Puerco Valley: All but a handful of these some dozen volcanic necks have gated closures due to grazing leases
The upper Rio Puerco Valley is littered with volcanic necks. Unfortunately access to most is inevitably gated. There is no confusion over which these are - only Cerro Cabezon & its close neighbors have unrestricted access.
MORE 
Angel Wing: Closed.
Enchanted Mesa: Closed.
New York   Adirondacks, The Gunks, more 
Adirondacks 
Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face: Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.
Poke-O-Moonshine: Seasonal Peregrine Falcon Closures; Stay on public land
Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.

The adjacent private landowners have been having issues with climbers crossing their property. Please approach from the old campground and follow the existing trail to avoid crossing any private property. Do not hike straight up to the cliff, even if you have to park on the road. Access Fund worked with local climbers to order and install signs along the private property boundaries. Please respect these signs and our neighbors.
Poke-O-Moonshine: Follow trail from old state campground
The adjacent private landowners have been having issues with climbers crossing their property. Please approach from the old campground and follow the existing trail to avoid crossing any private property. Do not hike straight up to the cliff, even if you have to park on the road. Access Fund worked with local climbers to order and install signs along the private property boundaries. Please respect these signs and our neighbors.
Wayout Wall: Approach crosses private land
Currently the landowner/s do not prohibit crossing their property; however this may change in the future. Our behavior as climbers may influence their attitude, and thus our ease of access to this area.
Old Forge Region: The Old Forge area is a patchwork of private and public property. Please respect private property and posted signs, and avoid climbing or trespassing on private property unless you have permission from the landowner.
Silver Lake: There is presently no camping allowed at Silver Lake. There are some nearby campgrounds, though.
Huckleberry Mountain: The approach described over Crane Mountain is entirely on state land. However tempting, do not use the easier approaches from the east or west.
There has been confusion about access to Huckleberry Mountain ever since it appeared in early hiking guides. There is an historic ruin of an old paint mine in this valley near the cliffs, and it's a popular hiking destination. Subsequent climbing guidebooks piggy-backed on this approach.

These approaches cross private property and are closed to the public. The only known legitimate approach to Huckleberry is described below and in the 2nd printing of Adirondack Rock.
Owls Head Mountain: Private Property, hiking and climbing tolerated
Dix Mtn.: Private Land/Hunting Season Limitation from Elk Lake
From Elk Lake, the Dix Trail traverses private land until a few tenths of a mile before Slide Brook, so don’t deviate from the marked path. This segment is also closed during the big game hunting season (refer to the DEC website for specific dates).
Armonk Cliffs 
Armonk Cliffs: Private land - currently closed
Castle Rock 
Castle Rock: Private Lake
Nature Conservancy issues, the climb is only accessible via a 1/3 mile swim
Monsey Glen Regional Park 
Monsey Glen Regional Park: This is a county park
Thus far, there haven't been problems with getting booted, but we've heard that "Officially" there is no climbing here. The location of the climbing is totally in the furthest reaches of the park and is not likely to cause issues.
Phoenicia, Sportsman's Wall 
Phoenicia, Sportsman's Wall: Parking near private residences. Please be considerate.
The Gunks 
The Near Trapps: Closure! of the base trail at Eenie Meenie / Moe
A private party who owns a short section of the Nears cliff has closed his land to climbers for geopolitical reasons.

This means for routes from the beginning of the Nears to Eenie Meenie or Moe, you'll approach as usual, from a trail heading towards the rock between the steel bridge and the Overlook lot.

For routes past Moe, you'll need to slingshot around the cliff. Walk south on the carriage road from the steel bridge, then turn left at the second trailhead -- the Millbrook Ridge Trail (blue markers). In about 15 minutes, you'll come to an intersection where blue markers meet red markers, and a new, orange-blazed/staked trail heads east and down a slope, depositing you right at the Far End of the Nears.

This overall approach takes about the same time to approach the far end of the cliff than it does to hike all along the bottom of the Nears.
d. Harvest Moon to the End: A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing
A portion of the Near Trapps has been closed to climbing. This includes land below the cliff to above cliff line and starts approximately at Eenie Meenie and continues south about 200 feet. Climbers are asked to respect the no-trespassing signs and advised to use the access trail marked in orange blazes. This trail starts at the intersection of the Blue trail over the top of the Nears and the first Red trail. Follow the orange blazes east and downhill from this junction to arrive at the far (south) end of the Nears.
For more information please view www.mohonkpreserve.org/index.php?news
Millbrook: Partially closed.
Sky Top: While public climbing is still legally and enforceably prohibited at Sky Top, you may climb LEGALLY at Sky Top as a guided client, since 2007.
Alpine Endeavors has been contracted by the Mountain House to be the only guide service legally allowed to guide at Sky Top. This might seem completely unfair, but it's their sandbox - so, it's their rules. If you want to legally climb at Sky Top, you have to be guided. Even if you're an overnight guest who is a fully-competent climber, you MUST still be guided. HERE and HERE for more information.

Apparently, plans are in the works to have security patrols stepped up to prevent unauthorized access to the area. There will also be other methods used to confirm and prevent unauthorized access.

Regardless, this is a huge step in the uphill battle to win public climbing access back. Due to this development, the guide book information will be put back up, and the population of the route DB is encouraged.
MORE 
Gunks - Hemlock Rock: Closed.
Thunder Rocks 
Thunder Rocks: Fee to access the park
The rocks reside inside Allegheny State Park, which requires a small fee to enter.
West Point 
West Point: Railroad crossing CLOSED
The railroad company has notified the public that trespassing charges will be filed for crossing the railroad to climb. Local climbers and the Access Fund are working to address the issue.
west point: pay for parking $5
skeeter has the only parking area nice guy not much to ask in terms of parking fee.
MORE 
Mud Hole: Probably closed.
Storm King State Park: Closed.
North Carolina   Laurel Knob, Linville Gorge, more 
Carrboro/University Lake boulders 
Carrboro/University Lake boulders: Fragile plant life
Rhododendron bluff atop hill is owned by Triangle Land conservancy. Please respect and do not remove plant life and try to preserve bank stability.
Saxa Pawpaw: Fragile plant life
Please try to preserve the bank and also don't mess with any of the rhododendrons at the top.
Cathey's Creek Crag 
Cathey's Creek Crag: Tread lightly and carpool. Leave no trace!
Please do not park in any way that would obstruct the forest service road.
Closed 
Closed: Temporarily closed.
Hound Ears 
Hound Ears: CLOSED TO THE PUBLIC.
The crag is owned by the Hound Ears Golf Club and is closed to climbing. Bouldering is allowed only during the annual Triple Crown bouldering competition.
MORE 
Foscoe - Hound Ears: Closed.
Linville Gorge 
Linville Gorge: Seasonal Falcon Closure
All areas between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed in spring and summer due to local falcon population.
North Carolina Wall: All climbing routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed from January 15 and August 15
It’s the time of year to welcome back North Carolina’s peregrine falcons. While the peregrine falcon was removed from the United States Fish and Wildlife Service’s endangered species list in 1999, it remains listed as sensitive by the Regional Forester and endangered by the state of North Carolina. These designations continue to afford the peregrine falcon protection as the Forest Service and partner agencies work to conserve and protect the species.

Thirteen pairs nested in 2010, eight of which were on Forest Service lands. While 2010 appears to have been a good year for the falcons, long-term reproductive success continues to be a concern. Young chicks startled prior to acquiring full flight capability will run off the edge of the cliff attempting to escape the threat. Entry into a closure site after the chicks have hatched but before they can fly will almost certainly cause this response.

Closure of the cliffs where peregrine falcons are nesting to climbing activities is necessary to limit disturbance during critical reproductive seasons. Climbers should be aware that both the adults and newly fledged chicks remain in the vicinity of the nest site, and may fly or dive at nearby climbers. It is unlawful to take (kill, harass, or injure, including eggs) peregrine falcons and other birds of prey (Migratory Bird Treaty Act, 16 USC 703-712).
Until such time as western North Carolina can maintain a healthy reproduction rate and successfully raise young peregrine falcons, the existing closures will be maintained, posted, and enforced.

Entry into or upon the areas defined above is prohibited between January 15 and August 15. Areas are defined by orange painted boundary or posted signs. This closure is in effect whether or not signs are present.
Looking Glass Rock 
Looking Glass Rock: Seasonal Falcon Closure
All routes to the right of glass menagerie and to the left of and including Twisted Laurel on the north face of Looking Glass rock are seasonally closed due to the local falcon population.
Raleigh area climbing 
West Deck parking garage: Public building
This is a building on NCSU's campus and it is likely that the campus police won't like it very much if they catch you climbing there...
Ship Rock 
Upper Tier: All climbers must use existing rappel stations for descent.
Rappel stations are located atop the routes: “Boardwalk” (for main section of cliff) and “Edge of a Dream” (for upper tier routes). Please see www.accessfund.org/regions/news/NC for more info
Victory Wall 
Victory Wall: Seasonal Falcon Closure
Victory Wall is seasonally closed to climbing due to the local falcon population
Whiteside Mountain 
Whiteside Mountain: Seasonal Falcon Closure
All climbing between and including Southwest Arete and Mainline are seasonally closed due to the local falcon population
MORE 
Chimney Rock : Partially open.
Devil's Courthouse: Partially open.
Foscoe - boulder Gardens: Closed.
Foscoe - Leafy Lane: Closed.
Grandfather Mountain Area : Closed.
Hanging Rock State Park: Partial closure for seasonal raptor nesting
Parkway - Indian Rocks: Closed.
Parkway- Pilot Ridge: Closed.
Parkway - The Jewels: Closed.
Sauratown: Closed.
Sugar Grove: Closed.
The Knob Boulders (aka Howard's Knob): Closed.
Big Lost Cove Cliffs: All climbing routes are closed.
Whiterock Cliff: All climbing routes are closed
Eagle Cliff: All climbing routes are closed for protection of rare plants.
Ohio   more 
Beach City Nature Preserve 
Beach City Nature Preserve: Hunting Grounds
This is a hunting area so please be careful while tromping through the land.
Centerville Mills 
Centerville Mills: It is uncertain how acceptable it is allowed, lately it has
Doan Brook 
Doan Brook: City Park: Keep a low profile
While there are no formal access prohibitions, this area is located within a city park. Please take the time to learn and follow all Park rules.
Hocking Hills State Forest 
Big Spring Hollow/Conkle's Hollow: Look at the map in the link below.
There is private property southeast of the cliff just off of the Buckeye Trail.
Marne Road Wall 
Marne Road Wall: Private Property?
Mohican State Park 
Mohican State Park: No Rope Systems Are Allowed
Rising Park 
Rising Park: Park Rules state climbing is not allowed
This is a city park open to the public free of charge, however, city park rules state that climbing is not allowed. I am unaware of how much this is enforced.
Whipps Ledges 
Whipps Ledges: Permit Required
You must obtain a permit to climb with a rope system. Contact Mike Barnhart 216 351 6300, Ext. 264, with the Cleveland Metro Parks system. You can visit the Cleveland Zoo and get things handled their as well, but don't expect same day service. You must have proof of 300,000 USD personal liability insurance (home owners or renters) if you plan on using a rope system to be safe in the presence of our Honorable Rangers.
MORE 
Nelson-Kennedy Ledges State Park: Closed.
Springfield Gorge: Closed.
Oklahoma   Quartz Mountain, Wichita Wildlife Refuge, more 
Avery Drive ( Tulsa ) 
Avery Drive ( Tulsa ): Access Questionable
Parking along Avery Drive can get you into trouble as well as possible trespassing issues with the individual areas. Park and climb at your own risk. Parking along Avery Drive can and will alert the cops to your climbing activity.
Lake Tenkiller Dam 
Lake Tenkiller Dam: Possibly closed
Last I recall they put up no trespassing signs below the damn because they were worried about terrorists blowing up the damn and ruining the water supply. Don't know how true that excuse is, but you can easily access the area but your not supposed hang out there.
The Silo 
The Silo: Closed. Trespassers will be arrested.
Wichita Wildlife Refuge 
Wichita Wildlife Refuge: Access is always an issue here.
Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.
Dream Boat Annie (Version 2.0): See Wichita Mountain Wildlife Refuge front page.
See Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge page.
Pyromania Area: See regulations for Wichita Mountains Wild Life Refuge
Charon's Gardens: This area is designated as Charon
Currently the the US Fish and Wildlife Service is reviewing the Comprehensive Conservation Plan and reviewing activities for compatibility. Contact the Access Fund or the Wichita Mountains Climber's Coalition for more information on how you can get involved in keeping the tradition of climbing safe in the Wildlife Refuge. Use extra care to avoid doing anything to change the natural resources in any way.
West Horizon Pass: This area is within the Charon's Gardens Wilderness Area
Currently the the US Fish and Wildlife Service is reviewing the Comprehensive Conservation Plan and reviewing activities for compatibility. Contact the Access Fund or the Wichita Mountains Climber's Coalition for more information on how you can get involved in keeping the tradition of climbing safe in the Wildlife Refuge. Use extra care to avoid doing anything to change the natural resources in any way.
The Labyrinth: Extremely delicate access, you HAVE to have us with you to climb here or you will be towed!
The owners had an issue with someone venturing onto their land without permission and causing a huge ruckus, and have informed us that any vehicle found parked there without us will be towed, and anyone found in the boulders without us will be prosecuted for trespassing. Until things get better, please feel free to ask for a tour. We will gladly take you!
MORE 
Rock of Ages Quarry (aka The Ghetto): Closed.
YCCQuarry: Closed.
Oregon   Mt. Hood, Smith Rock, more 
Beacon Rock 
Beacon Rock: Seasonal Raptor Closure
From the Washington State Park's Page [www.parks.wa.gov/474/Beacon-Rock]:
Beacon Rock offers excellent opportunities for rock climbing, and is considered to be some of the very best "Traditional Climbing" in the northwest. Climbers do need to be aware of where and when they climb due to management restrictions. Only the NW corner is open to climbing year round. The east face is closed year round due to environmental sensitivity. The rest of Beacon Rock is closed to rock climbing from February 1 to mid July annually to protect sensitive wildlife habitat. Call the park at (509) 427-8265 for more information.
Carver 
Carver: Carver cliff is on PRIVATE PROPERTY!
This is very important to remember, and the rules associated with climbing here must be respected if it is to remain open to climbers. In order to climb or boulder at this area you must sign a waiver and pay a one-time $8 fee at the Portland Rock Gym. Be sure to carry photo ID with you when you're at the area. Respect the land owner's property, don't litter, don't add or remove any bolts without permission, etc. It would be a big loss to the Portland climbing community if Carver were to be closed to us so do your part to keep it open and accessable.
Corvallis Boulders 
Corvallis Boulders: Private Land
Right now I have gained access from the land owners and am able to take people there. Otherwise access is limited. The land owners are willing to allow access they are just asking we construct a trail that avoids parts of their land to provide access to all boulders in Corvallis. Please send me a message if you are interested in helping.
Emigrant Lake  
Emigrant Lake :
Follow the day use guidelines as to not get locked in.
Goat Peak 
Goat Peak: Permit required to enter Pamelia Lake area.
Hagg-Lake Rock Slab 
Hagg-Lake Rock Slab: Undeveloped Roadside
Blackberry bushes and Poison Oak are prevalent on top and below the wall. Parking may be private property.
Madrone Wall 
Madrone Wall: Please note that the Madrone wall is still closed entirely for rock climbing, as it has been since 1997.
Nevertheless it'd be great to put some information up here for Portland's most beloved crag.
North Eastern Oregon 
High Valley: Located on private property
There has never been any issues with climbing on this land. There is a fence next to the road that you cross and the trail up to the upper wall is not so good.
P-IKE Boulders 
P-IKE Boulders: Private Land
These rocks are most likely on private land. We have never had any problems. Maintain a low profile.
Pete's Pile 
The Playground: No climbing north of sign
There is a sign noting the north side boundary of the Playground. There is about 60 ft. of protected wall due to a rare flower that grows there. Just don't climb between the two "no climbing zone" signs.
Rabbit Ears (Rogue) 
Rabbit Ears (Rogue): Peregrine Falcon nesting
There are seasonal closures due to Peregrine Falcon nesting. Closure is usually from January 1 to July 31.
Smith Rock 
Smith Rock: Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012
Monument Area: Seasonal Bird Closures
This area is closed indefinitely due to a pair of golden eagles nesting.
The Monument: Golden Eagles
Please respect the closure for Golden Eagle nesting from March to August
The Monument Base Area: Confirm Raptor Closures before Going
MORE 
Smith Rock Seasonal Closure: Seasonal closure in effect at Monument Area and Picnic Lunch Wall
The Callahans 
The Callahans: Private Timberland - Closed
Climbing is currently closed unless individuals hold a current permit with Weyerhauser. Local climbers and Access Fund are working together to find a long-term solution.
The Garden 
Garden: Weyerhauser
The poor practice of parking in the original parking lot (part of the way up a logging road that for some reason always has its gate open) should end. There are so many legal parking options and access is so dodgy anyways is it worth compromising future access to save 30 seconds of a walk. Yes its cool to drop right in on Undertow, Hula and Francois but in reality its not that far to park at the road and walk in.
The Little Crag 
Parking Area: On Private Property
TLC parking is on a 380 acre private parcel. The owner is not interested in dialog with climbers. So as long as there are not any No Trespassing signs, I'm going to keep parking there.
Three Fingered Jack 
Three Fingered Jack: Remember to get a Wilderness permit at the trailhead
Trout Creek 
Trout Creek: Seasonal Raptor Closure starts Jan 15 each year; No top access - private land
2014 Season: Trout Creek is open to climbing as of May 15, 2014.

SEASONAL RAPTOR CLOSURE TAKES EFFECT JAN 15 EACH YEAR. The golden eagle nesting season is underway and climbers continue to demonstrate 100% compliance rate with the closure, and we need to make sure to repeat that showing. This closure is mandatory for all users groups including climbers and hikers, and violators are subject to a ticket and fine. The BLM will be monitoring the territory, which includes all of the crags and the approach trails. The soonest the closure could be partially lifted is May 15th, depending on the nesting scenarios at that time. Please spread the word and stay tuned for updates.

NO TOP ACCESS - PRIVATE LAND

Please respect adjacent private landowners. While the climbing area is mainly BLM, a portion of the cliff and access may be on private property. The mesa on top of the columns is private ranchland. Please do not top out or approach from above to rappel or set top ropes. Local climbers have established a positive relationship with the adjacent private property owners and it is important to maintain their trust for long-term access.
Williamson River Cliffs 
Williamson River Cliffs: Emergency Closure of all public access
The main cliffline at Williamson River Cliffs is closed to all public access for cultural resource concerns. A final environmental assessment to consider a permanent closure or potential re-opening with appropriate restrictions is pending. Contact Mike Lawrence, Chiloquin District Ranger, at(541) 783-4020 for updates and comments.

Map of the closure area:
Closure area at Williamson River Cliffs
Closure area at Williamson River Cliffs <@? echo PostCache::objectEditBar(107146963,"APPROVED","IMAGE", "COMMENT", "edit, move, del, reassign",array(105860838,106319993),array(105708955,105708965,105860844,107146963),"106319993", "", "" ); ?@>
MORE 
Awbrey Butte: Closed.
Bend Lava Tubes: Probably closed.
Coburg Caves: Closed.
Pennsylvania   more 
Bellefonte Quarry 
Bellefonte Quarry: Private Property - Closed
Bellefonte Quarry is closed to public access. Climbing Conservancy of Central Pennsylvania are working with the landowners in an effort to regain public climbing access to this area.
Breakneck 
Breakneck: Private Land
Popular belief is that the rocks are on State Gamelands 51 while the trail and parking are on private property. According to the map on the Game Commission Website, the northern boundary of the gamelands does not start until the Casparis area (south of Breakneck). The land is actually owned by a private company, possibly logging. Regardless, the locals seem to be friendly and do not cause much fuss. Ensure that it stays this way by packing out your trash and do not block any of the roads with your vehicle.
Coll's Cove Bouldering 
Coll's Cove Bouldering: Colls Cove Access Update
Please goto the Coll's Cove Facebook page for up-to-date info about parking and access. Currently everything is all good if you follow the rules and payment instructions.
Delaware Water Gap (PA) 
Mount Minsi: Seasonal Falcon Closure: Update
As of 6/23/14, the seasonal falcon closure is lifted early due to an inactive nest site.

There is a seasonal closure from January to July for Mt. Minsi on the Pennsylvania side of the Delaware Water Gap National Recreation Area. This is subject to being lifted early due to failure to nest or early fledging.

For more information contact:

Allan Ambler
Delaware Water Gap National Recreation Area
Division of Resource Management and Science
294 Old Milford Road
Milford, PA 18337

Phone (570) 296-6952 x 22
Governor Stable 
Governor Stable: Governor Stable requires membership or a paid pass. The Circuit Area is currnetly closed to all climbing while access to the area is negotiated. Please respect the closed / no tresspassing signs posted near the pyramid. The rest of GS proper remains open to members and daypass holders.
Due to the fact that Governor Stable is located on private property, a lease was secured with the landowners. The terms of this lease state that GS is open from 1/1 thru 8/31 of 2011, 2012, and 2013. No information is available regarding climbing access after 2013! DO NOT TRESSPASS when the area is closed to climbing, you could jeopardize access for the future. See friendsofgs.org/ for the latest details.
Circuit: The circuit is closed until futher notice
ACCESS UPDATE: The circuit is closed until futher notice. Access to the area is being negotiated. Please respect the closed / no tresspassing signs posted near the pyramid and stay out of the circuit until further notice. The rest of GS is open.
Hunter's Rocks (Rocky Ridge Natural Area) 
Hunter's Rocks (Rocky Ridge Natural Area): Avoid private land on approach to public areas
See the C3PA's maps to avoid trespassing on private property on the apporach.

www.c3pa.org/hunters_rocks
Private Property - do not use: Private Property - do not use
Philadelphia 
Urban Climbing: Private property
Rim Rock 
Rim Rock: Climbing limited to areas below observation deck.
As per 7/13/11 email reply from A.N.F. Support Service and Recreation Teams, the restrictions on climbing/rappelling are limited to areas below the observation deck, to prevent interaction between rope gear and man-made structures or guests of the observation deck.

The restrictions due to timbering were evidently just a failure to remove the posts from their boards afterwards.
The Rim 
The Rim: Sensitive parking and approach
Parking is sometimes an issue. Do not park on the turnpike, or on private property. This leaves a rather long approach. Check with locals for the current parking situation, do not jeopardize access.
MORE 
Bellefonte Quarry: Closed.
Death Star Quarry: Closed.
Dickson Quarry: Partially open.
Double Secret Quarry: Closed.
Friction Quarries: Closed.
High Rocks, Derry Rocks: Closed.
Meadvill Quarry: Probably closed.
Peavine Island: Probably open.
Pleasant Gap Quarry: Closed.
Safe Harbor: Partially open, access still sensitive
Tucquan Overhangs: Partially open.
Castanea Slab: Closed.
Cedar Ledge: Closed.
Rhode Island   more 
Arcadia Management Area 
Old Mountain Rd.: Posted property
Ballard Park (closed) 
Ballard Park (closed): Closed to Climbing until further notice
City of Newport (Park’s authority) passed an Ordinance on 10/27/2010 banning rock climbing.
Fort Wetherill State Park (closed) 
Fort Wetherill State Park (closed): RI State Park, follow rules and closure times
Rockville 
Midden Boulder: Closed- private property
This boulder and the smaller surrounding erratics are now posted no trespassing. There is a camper directly behind the boulder that appears to be in regular use.


The Forgotten Boulder: Access Issues
The Clamshell and Forgotten Boulder set are surrounded by no trespassing signs. Although the property demarcation lines on the available maps indicated the property line is some 60 yards past the boulders at a small stream, maintaining a low profile is recommended.


South Carolina    more 
Table Rock 
Main Face: Raptor Closures
This area is only open from Sept. 1 to Dec. 31.
Table Rock: Raptor Closures
Closed from Jan. 1 to Sept. 1 for Raptor nesting. Only the south faces are open for climbing during any time. Climbing on the North Face is highly illegal and will result in severe punishments due to it being in the watershed.
Watergroove Wall: Raptor Closures
This area is only open between Sept. 1 and Dec. 31.
South Dakota   Custer State Park, Spearfish Canyon, more 
Mount Rushmore National Memorial 
Mount Rushmore National Memorial: Check NPS for Closures
The VC 
The VC: Road open May 15- Dec 15
MORE 
Black Hills - Johnson Siding: Closed.
Tennessee   Foster Falls, Sunset Park, more 
Cherokee Bluff (CLOSED TO CLIMBING) 
Cherokee Bluff (CLOSED TO CLIMBING): Closed (Private Property)
Closed for liability reasons.
MORE 
Grindstone: Closed.
Little Rock: Closed.
Superlab: Closed.
Trice's Landing: Closed.
South Cumberland Plateau - Spider Rock/Hidden Rock: Closed.
South Cumberland Plateau - The Boulderfield: Closed.
South Cumberland Plateau - Bee Rock: Partially closed.
Castle Rock: Partially open.
Texas   Enchanted Rock State Natural Area, Hueco Tanks, more 
Camp Eagle 
Camp Eagle: Visit www.campeagle.org for latest access news....
Private property - youth camp. Be mindful of your language and behavior, and follow the rules. The camp staff are very welcoming to the outdoor community, but will rightly put their youth first above other users.
www.campeagle.org
South Rim Wall: South Rim Access Info....
Access is from the Main Wall along a shelf high above the river. There is a metal cable strung along most of this shelf. Clip into the cable with a long sling and biner for safety.

You will also see a large rectangular frame and platform jutting out from the cliff. This is a feature reserved exclusively for Camp Eagle. Please stay off.
Continental Ranch 
Continental Ranch: Private Property: visit www.pecosriverrockclimbing.com for info
Cub Cave 
Cub Cave: Sensitive Area, Please Respect the Crag
The City of San Antonio doesn’t officially allow climbing, but is aware that the area is used by climbers. Local climbers are working to secure permanent access.
Georgetown Hospital 
Georgetown Hospital: Sign Waiver @ trail head.
Hueco Tanks 
Hueco Tanks: Some areas require a guide.
Mushroom Boulder: Closure reported on Climbing.com, Dec. 31st, 2007
"Sometimes called the single best boulder in the world, the Mushroom Boulder at Hueco Tanks, Texas, has been closed to climbing to protect the soil, plant life, and possible archaeological resources under the rock. The boulder, located at the base of North Mountain, was closed by Hueco Tanks State Historical Park in mid-December."

Please be sure that the boulder isn't restricted if you plan to climb there in the future. Hopefully, climbers will be able to get some dialog going with the park managers to deal with this issue, reopen the boulder, and mitigate climber impact in the future.
East Spur: East Spur is accessed by Guided Tour Only
East Mountain: East Mountain is accessed by Guided Tour Only
Indecent Exposure Buttress: See notes for Hueco Tanks Access
Day Use Pass and reservations required.
Split & Malice Boulders: Day Use Pass & Reservations required
Back of the Maze: Guided tour access only
First Love: Guided Access Only
West Mountain: Guided Access Only
Adventureland: Guided Access Only
The Gunks: Guided access only.
Reserve through the park or Hueco Rock Ranch.
Shroom and the Camel Toe: Guided tour access only
Natural Buttress: Use the volunteer guide system.
Forests of Azure: volunteer guide area
Ghetto Simulator: Open (with restrictions).
Be sure to hike out the way you came in, it is more of a pain but if you don't you are on land that requires a guide. If you go to ground level and head either left or right, this is restricted access that requires a guide. So don't be lazy and take the easy way out, hike out the way you came in.

DO NOT even think about going down to ground level on this side of North Mountain as your actions could get the park closed to everyone.
Between the Sheets:
Guided Access Only
Some areas require a guide.
Lower Forest: Access with certified guide only
The Shield: Guided access only
Medicine Wall 
Medicine Wall: Private Property
This area is currently located on private property. Contact SA Parks and encourage them to expand the Greenbelt Here AND Grandfather in Climbing
Mineral Wells State Park 
Monster Rock 
Monster Rock: See www.MonsterRock.info for latest access info
See www.MonsterRock.info for all the latest access info, including fees, annual memberships, hours of operation, and release forms.
Mythology Wall: private property
It's on John Hogge's property...so make sure you drop off your $5 and waiver!
Notrees 
Notrees: Private Property - leave no trace and respect the area
Pace Bend Park (DWS) 
Duende Cove: Accessing Pace Bend Park
$10 to get in, $15 for primitive camping, and $20 for improved camping + usage of a nice bathroom.

(Side note) If it was $5 to get in, I bet we would see a lot more bouldering routes set.
Palo Duro Canyon State Park 
Palo Duro Canyon State Park: Climbing Access Open - Keep a low profile.
Climbing in the canyon is legal, but please maintain a low profile. Please leave no trace to minimize the chances of the park closing to climbers.
Hueco Point (Closed): Climbing Access Closed
I was recently informed, by a friend, that the State Park will be giving tickets to people found climbing in this area. It turns out that these routes are on private property and the land owner has voiced their complaints.

For the time being all climbing at Hueco Point is closed and climbers should keep from climbing here. Its mostly choss anyway. This new development also serves as a reminder that we need to keep a low profile and be sure to practice good Leave No Trace practices and pick up the trash of others when you can.

Jeremy
Sorenson Main Wall: Climbing is currently open but keep a low profile and leave no trace.
Paradise on the Brazos 
Paradise on the Brazos: CLOSED
The landowners closed climbing and camping at the Paradise on the Brazos.
Oaks Wall: Private Property
Access is $10 a day. Pay at the house up front.
Point of Rocks 
Point of Rocks:
Some of the bouldering that can be found here is on public land immediately off the highway; however, the majority of the problems and the routes lie on private land, as does the majority of the rock in the area.
Wimberley Boulders 
Wimberley Boulders: Sort of Private Property, not really, right by 7A
These boulders are along river road on Blanco River, near 7A resort. Semi-private.
MORE 
Carpenter Mountain: Closed.
Pecos River Crags: Probably closed
Utah   Castle Valley, Fisher Towers, more 
Burr Trail / Long Canyon 
Burr Trail / Long Canyon: Springtime Peregrine closures (it lasts until the end summer)
Capitol Reef National Park 
Chimney Rock Canyon: CRYPTOBIOTIC SOIL
Outside of the wash itself there are hundreds of other boulders. Please be very careful while exploring them to avoid damaging the cryptobiotic soil.
Flaming Gorge 
Deer Run Campsite Boulders : This is up on a hill 80 yards behind campsites. Be respectful.
Joe's Valley 
Nerve Damage: Owned by the oil company. Please respect this area.
Do not park at the oil well. This has been closed to climbers. Park another mile or two up, then take the 15 minute walk back into the area. The entrance to the area is marked with cairns.
Lake Powell 
Lake Powell: Climbing regulations are in effect.
The following is prohibited:
  • Climbing and/or rappelling by any means on any man-made structures.
  • Technical rock climbing within 1/4 mile of occupied Peregrine Falcon, Bald Eagle, Condor and
Golden Eagle aeries.
  • Leaving gear and equipment used in connection with climbing activities unattended. The gear and
equipment shall be removed by the participants before departing the area. This includes but is not
limited to pitons, chocks, bolts and all other climbing aids.
  • The use of glue or other aids that are permanent or leave a visible or long lasting residue.
  • Climbing within the boundaries of Rainbow Bridge NM.

The above regulations may be found in this document.
Maple Canyon 
Box Canyon: Box Canyon is privately owned.
Be respectful, no dogs, and leave the canyon when nature calls.
The Box Canyon Ice Climbs, The Left Hand Fork Ice Climbs, The Middle Fork Ice Climbs, The Right Hand Fork Ice Climbs: Private Property/Skin or Hike Approach

Continued access to Box Canyon is at the pleasure of the private landowner. Please...no dogs, no defecating in canyon. Pack it out. Pack it all out.

The best single book for Maple Canyon Ice Climbs is Jason Stevens' Maple Canyon Ice Climbing, available at area specialty equipment shops (or perhaps from him directly if you contact him on this site). Read it, especially his section on vehicular access issues.

All of the climbs in Maple Canyon absolutely require snow to provide moisture for the melt/freeze which forms these climbs, so snow-covered roads are pretty much a given. Plan to hike or skin up the road. It's a nice warm-up for the climbing, and will alleviate a lot of opportunities for a headache.
Heart Rock Area: This area is located on private property.
Moab Area 
Arches National Park: Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions in Arches National Park

Castleton Tower: Registration required for camping starting 01 Oct 2010.
Utah Open Lands owns the primitive area historically used by climbers camping near Castleton Tower.

Beginning October 1, 2010, Utah Open Lands will require free registration to camp in the primitive camping area. Registration will be accomplished at the Utah Open Lands website.
Reservoir Wall: Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed.
Important - Stay off the part of the wall that faces the road. If you are looking down at the water, then you shouldn’t be there. Access is touchy. Yes, there are good climbs there, but no, you don’t want to ruin access for everyone and there are just a few hundred other good climbs in the Creek.
Sister Superior Group: See this from the Friends of Indian Creek
The road will not likely be in good shape for vehicular travel very often.

See this note regarding the Ida Gulch road.
The Pickle: This is a highly visible climb in an access sensitive area. Please be courteous and low key if you're going to climb this tower. Park in the lot next to the visitor's center and stay in washes when you leave the pavement. The tower is approached from the right when viewed from the road.
Devil Dog Spire: Cannot climb it from Jan1-Jun30 due to Cliffchickens
Also, be good to the Arches Rangers and they are good to us. No chalk... no new anchors, keep the base clean, park off the road, etc.
Comb Ridge: DO NOT DISTURB ARTIFACTS,LEAVE NO TRACE
13.5 miles: Leave this area as you find it!
10.3 miles: Leave this area as you find it! Or better!!!
Kane Springs Campground: private property
2$ per person entrance fee
Mile 0: private property
NO access issues at this time. there were issues in the past due to vandalism of the abandoned chair lift, but frankly, theres nothing left to vandalize. with the new parking lot, foot traffic in this area has greatly increased. as always on private property, keep a respectful and low profile.
Perigrines Pillar: Seasonal closure
This is a nesting area for Perigrine Falcons and is closed seasonally. sometime in March through the summer...check with the Rangers
Oquirrh Mountains 
Ophir Canyon: All climbing is on private land
Don't bother the locals, and respect their wishes to keep climbers off crags next to homes. If everyone keeps a low profile, cleans up after themselves, and doesn't camp without permission, then this will continue to be an amazing place to climb
Middle Canyon: Closed in winter
Saint George 
Black Rocks: Closed March 15 through June 30

Black Rocks is in the Red Cliffs Desert Reserve. No climbing is allowed at Black Rocks from March 15 through June 30 in order to provide an undisturbed environment for Desert Tortoise mating.

In addition, all pets in the Reserve must be kept on a leash at all times.
Hackberry Wash Wall: Hackberry Wash Wall is closed March 15 to June 1.
Crawdad Canyon / Veyo: Crawdad Canyon is private property.
Crawdad Canyon is privately owned and requires the payment of an entrance fee of $5 per person per day. See website for more info.
Bluff Street Cracks: Sometimes closed in spring for raptor nesting
Woodbury Road Crags: In critical habitat area for the Desert Tortoise
Moe's Valley: Sensitive Area
Each year more people in the climbing community discover the great winter bouldering of Moe’s Valley in St. George Utah. This area is fast becoming a premiere winter destination for an ever growing number of road trippers, weekenders, and climbers interested in trading deep snow drifts for warm desert stone. What most visitors (and admittedly many locals) do not know is that Moe’s Valley is owned by a state trust organization known as SITLA.

The State Institutional Trust Lands Administration (SITLA) was created when the Utah territory was granted statehood. SITLA was given millions of acres of federal land around the state and tasked with using those lands to generate revenue for the public school system. SITLA does this through oil and gas leasing, mineral and resource extraction or land sales for development.

Most locals in this part of the state just assume that if it doesn't have houses on it then it must be owned by the BLM. We made just that assumption when the potential of Moe’s valley was being re-discovered in early 2001. Upon the realization that the entire basin could become a housing development, we formed the Southern Utah Climbers Coalition (yes it spells SUCC) as a means of representing the interests of the local community, and opened a dialog with SITLA.

4 years, and many meetings later Moe’s valley and the Bloomington mesa will be annexed into the city of st. George and maintained as open space for the many forms of recreation that take place out there. With mountain biking on the Zen Trail, sport climbing on the Zen wall, myriad hiking trails as well as some of the best bouldering around, this formation offers outdoor enthusiasts a diverse and convenient venue for the pursuit of our various passions.

The process of approaching a landowner, developing a relationship, and explaining the value that an area or activity has to a community, and then working through solutions that are good for all of the interested parties has been extremely instructive and rewarding. SITLA actually hired a mediator to work through some of the issues and give an even handed point of view. This kind of process could very well be a template to other areas with similar issues.

I am not taking the time to write this just to pat ourselves on the back, but to explain how we have come to our present point, and to sound a note of concern.

As the popularity of Moe’s has increased, so has the number of people camping out at the parking area, driving up the wash to the Sentinel, or around the saddle to the TP boulders and upper basin. There is a fire pit at every major concentration of boulders, litter around the boulders, and tire tracks just about any where you could possibly drive a pickup, SUV or ATV. We are suggesting to the climbing/bouldering community that this is an unacceptable and unnecessary impact to an area that we have worked hard to protect. The hike from the end of the road to the furthest boulder can’t be more than 15 minutes. Of course when you have to bring in firewood that is a long way, so why not, like- not have a fire. The fire rings create the impression that camping at the base of the boulders is acceptable, it isn't. It is worth remembering that these kinds of behaviors were undoubtedly among some of the reasons for the closing of Hueco tanks, and the Black Velvet camping in Red Rocks. It makes our community look bad in the eyes of the landowners, land managers and other users of the area.

We are beginning the process of working with the BLM to identify appropriate areas that are close enough to Moe’s valley and appropriate for the kind of camping that someone on a road trip would do (fire pit, dogs, cathole ect…) In the meantime, if everyone who visits Moe’s would take some of this advice to heart and pass the word it would help our cause, and improve our image with people who’s opinion of our community standards really does matter.

Todd Goss
St. George Utah
Cougar Cliffs: Cougar Cliffs are located in the Red Cliffs Desert Reserve, and managed by Snow Canyon S.P.
Restrictions on route development, off-trail access, and appropriate use are the same as are in the State Park. Pets on leash, don't smash the wildlife and flora, etc.
The Soul Asylum: Private Land Owned by Teck Cominco Mining Co
Check with local climbing shops for access info to this and other Utah Hills Crags. Info at:

The Desert Rat (435) 628-7277
Ren and Stimpy Wall: Private Property
This crag is located on land owned by Teck Cominco Mining Company. Please treat the area with the respect a visiting guest should afford private property. Thanks!
The Diamond: Access requires crossing private property
Climbing at the Diamond is open with an ok from Teck mining company. Although the crag isnt on private land the road leading up to it is owned by teck mining co. Please be respectful.
The Pipelines: Private Property
Southern Utah Climbers Coalition (SUCC) through Desert Rat located in St. George
Red Cliffs Reserve: WIth in the Red Cliffs Reserve area
Climbing management plans are in effect
Uinta Mountains 
Uinta Mountains: Located in a National Forest Fee Area

See the Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forest Service fee page for more information.
Scout Lake: Book Cliffs is used by the Boy Scouts; please avoid Camp Steiner and be courteous.
Wasatch Range 
American Fork Canyon: Located in a National Forest Fee Area

See the Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forest Service fee page for more information.
Bell's Canyon: Private Property now at the entrance to Bells Canyon.

A well known and marked trailhead has been established starting from Wasatch Blvd. The trail adds some time to the approach, but is fenced off from passing through any private property. Stick to the trail.
Pentapitch Area: Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse.
Little Cottonwood Access Update

Despite "no trespassing" signs climbers have been observed crossing the creek on the pipe at the traditional (pumphouse) parking for the Pentapitch/Coalpit areas. This pipe crossing is dangerous and a slip could be fatal. This area is privately owned and the SLCA has a positive relationship with the landowner.

The bridge near Lisa falls is the preferred location to cross the creek.

Down-canyon, the bridge leading to the south side near the Buzz bouldering area has been condemned by the Forest Service. Signs have been posted promising fines for tresspassers. We ask that you obey these signs and find an alternate route to your destination.
Secret Garden: UDOT will ticket cars parked on the south side of the canyon opposite the Secret Garden bouldering area.
During the SCLA/Access Fund Adopt-a-Crag Event (Fall 2007), climbers built a new trail from the Little Cottonwood Park-and-Ride. The trail provides easy access to lower canyon bouldering and climbing at the Bongeater and Crescent Crack Buttresses. To avoid traffic problems on the highway and tickets from the Utah Department of Transportation, please use the Park-and-Ride parking to access lower canyon bouldering and climbing. UDOT will ticket cars parked on the south side of the canyon opposite the Secret Garden bouldering area.
Resurrection: Private Property
Included for historical reasons.
Black Peeler Buttress: On private land.

The land on which sits Black Peeler Buttress is owned by Perpetual Storage.

Be respectful of private property.
Hellgate Cliffs: Park your car off of the main canyon road.
Coal Pit Buttress: Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse.
Little Cottonwood Access Update

Despite "no trespassing" signs climbers have been observed crossing the creek on the pipe at the traditional (pumphouse) parking for the Pentapitch/Coalpit areas. This pipe crossing is dangerous and a slip could be fatal. This area is privately owned and the SLCA has a positive relationship with the landowner.

The bridge near Lisa falls is the preferred location to cross the creek.

Down-canyon, the bridge leading to the south side near the Buzz bouldering area has been condemned by the Forest Service. Signs have been posted promising fines for tresspassers. We ask that you obey these signs and find an alternate route to your destination.
Outer Canyon: Bouldering here may or may not be construed as trespassing.
Intensive Care Slab: The Approach borders on a private area of land adjacent to the church Archives.
DO NOT use the road, as there are cameras and they will see you. Try to avoid knocking looseness onto the road, as that may jeopardize future access.
Santaquin Canyon: Mt. Nebo Wilderness on south side of Santaquin Canyon.
The Mount Nebo Wilderness boundary parallels approximately 100-200 yards south of the Santaquin Canyon road from the mouth of the canyon to Tinney Flat Campground. Wilderness rules apply within the wilderness area (nothing mechanized or motorized allowed, including power drills).
Stinky Stash Wall: Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation
Albion Basin: Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation
Gate Buttress: The land is owned by the LDS Church; please be respectful of this.
Unknown by many people, the land, from at the LDS Church record vaults up to and including the Gate Buttress is owned by the LDS Church. The privately-owned areas include The Fin, The Thumb Area, Green Adjective Gully, Schoolroom Area, and Gate Buttress.

Over the past 40 years there have been several closures of this property to climbing.

Currently, climbers are welcome visitors in part because of Utah's Land Owner Liability Law and the work of local climbers to preserve access.

In 1998 through 2000 this area was quarried and is presently under restoration and re-vegetation. The climbers' trail goes through part of this area. Please stay on the trail so that this area can recover.
Native American Crag: Minimize passing through private property.
Access via Big Cottonwood Canyon leaves little other options other than passing through private property and people's back yards to access the steep north facing hillside up to Powder Ridge Wall or Native American Crag.
The other and longer approach is via Ferguson Canyon.
Main Hellgate: Use the established trails
Tower One: As for all Hellgate areas
Tower Three: Park your car off of the main canyon road
The Clamshell: Park off the main Little Cottonwood Canyon road
Goat Gully Wall: As with all Hellgate areas, stay on the trails
The Melting Mud Wall: Stay on the trails
This is private property. Respect it and consider it a privilege to climb here.
Lots of Balls Slab, Rodeo Buttress: The Grist Mill was recently closed to public access by the Wasatch Cache National Forest Service.
That does not mean access to Lots of Balls Slab or Rodeo Buttress are closed. It just means we have to hike around the clear area surrounding the Grist Mill.
North Creek Canyon: Located in the Mt. Nebo Wilderness.

North Creek Canyon is entirely located within the Mount Nebo Wilderness. Wilderness rules apply (nothing mechanized or motorized allowed, including power drills).
Tank Canyon: Located in the Lone Peak Wilderness Area
The Lone Peak Wilderness boundary begins a short distance into Tank Canyon. Wilderness rules apply.
Pharaoh's Glen, Pharaoh's Hat, Ubud Wall: Private Property
Trails and rock walls and terraces have been beautifully constructed on this private enclave. The owner, Ira Sachs, however, welcomes responsible and respectful climbers on these walls when there are no private events being held on the property grounds. Please be discreet and ask for permission while passing through the gate.

Many private parties, weddings, and gatherings are held here. When this is the case, out of respect for the people paying for privacy at these events, it is best not to traverse through the property to access the Pharoah's Hat or other climbs in the Pharoah's Glen area. The honor and privaledge to access this area is NOT a right, and certainly will be revoked if abused.
Mt Olympus: Access to the north face crosses private property
Access to the north face crosses private property which can be avoided via some serious bush whacking.

Due to the construction of a new home and a huge gate (monitored by a surveillance camera), it’s no longer possible to access the traditional “trailhead” and gain the obvious ridgeline leading to Apollo Chute. The new home sits right next to the water tanks that used to act as the landmark for the approach. Following the couloir drainage is unsafe due to loose rock (and rattlesnakes) and bushwhacking from the drainage to the ridgeline is a royal pain.
East Waterfall Dome: Private Property now at the entrance to Bells Canyon
I fondly remember the days of driving all the way to the Bells Canyon lower reservoir. Now a well known and marked trailhead has been established off of Wasatch Blvd. It adds some time to tha approach, but is fensed off from passing through any private property. Stick to the trail
Resort Buttress: Please be very courteous to Wasatch Resort homeowners.
Access Resort Buttress via the climbers trail which originates across the road from the Grist Mill pullout.
Melting Mud West: Don't park on the dirt road on weekdays; parking is allowed only on weekends.
Avalanche Buttress: Located in the Lone Peak Wilderness Area
The Lone Peak Wilderness boundary begins a short distance from the road. Wilderness rules apply.
Zion National Park 
North Guardian Angel: Kolob Resevoir road has winter closure.
Zion National Park: Seasonal Raptor Closures
The following cliffs will be closed to climbing beginning March 1, 2012: Angels Landing, Cable Mountain, The Great White Throne (beyond single- and double-pitched climbs), Isaac (in Court of the Patriarchs), The Sentinel, Mountain of the Sun, North Twin Brother, Tunnel Wall, The East Temple, Mount Spry, The Streaked Wall, Mount Kinesava, and the Middle Fork of Taylor Creek. All other cliffs will remain open to climbing.

See www.nps.gov/zion/parknews/2012-climbing-closures-announced.h>>> for more info
Vermont   Lake Willoughby, Smugglers Notch Ice climbing, more 
Bolton Area 
Bolton Area: Seasonal Peregrine Falcon Closures
Some areas in Bolton maintain a seasonal closure for Peregrine Nesting. Look for postings at trailheads and with www.cragvt.org.
Bolton Quarry: Sensitive Area
Locals have agreed to allow open access to Green Mountain Rd. into the Quarry. There have been some issues in the past about speeding so drive slow and be respectful to anyone who you meet (many of them like to hike into the quarry and the neighboring trails)
Bone Mountain: Seasonal Falcon Closures
Refer to the Vermont DEC for seasonal closure information.
Satellite Wall: Seasonal Falcon Closures
the Main Cliff: Seasonal Falcon Closures
MORE 
Camel's Hump: Closed.
St. Albans I-89 Crag: Closed.
Virginia   Grayson Highlands State Park, more 
The Hill 
The Hill: This area appears to be on national forest and blue ridge parkway land.
Buena Vista 
Buena Vista: Limited access
Boulder 4: Limited access
Boulder : Limited access
Front Street 
Front Street: The access here is allowed but tenuous
Access here is allowed but you have to park and cross a property boundary where a loose agreement is worked with land owners. Please ask for parking directions before coming here.
Iron Gate, VA 
Iron Gate, VA: Private Land: Closed
The private property is closed for liability concerns. Local climbers and Access Fund are working to seek options for reconsidering climbing access.
Mint Springs Park 
Final Flight Site: stay on marked trail once leave Mint Springs Boundary. Acceptable to hike to plane wreckage as long as remain close to well worn trail.
Once pass under power wires you are technically off Mint Springs territory and the trail meanders through several property areas along the slopes of Buck's Elbow Mountain. The landowners have allowed the trail to the wreckage to be marked with orange surveying tape. Stay close to trail that leads to plane and don't wander too far from plane crash site. Small crag is right next to the plane wreckage.
Mountain Lake 
Mountain Lake: Closed to climbing, access is currently being discussed with MLC Staff.
MLC staff are asking people not to boulder here until further notice. Discussions are taking place in order to establish both bouldering and mountain biking as recognized activities at Mtn. Lake. MLC request a ban on bouldering until a decision has been made.
Read Mountain 
Read Mountain: Public land - potentially sensative
So far access is allowed but we have been very low profile. We have been very friendly to other users, cleaned up our own and others trash, kept quite, and stayed on trails when possible. Let's not shoot ourselves in the foot by doing anything dumb to make ourselves noticed and banned.
Roanoke River Gorge (RoRG), Roanoke, VA 
Roanoke River Gorge (RoRG), Roanoke, VA: Dangers beware!
Parking area and crag located on public land (i.e. Blue Ridge Parkway/Dept. of the Interior), but established routes have not been officially approved by Park Service so tread lightly and leave no trace.

Crag can be accessed from above and below, but both trails are steep and on loose terrain.

Always wear a helmet and announce rockfall. Crag is riddled with poison ivy, ticks, and snakes during the growing season.
Second Mountain 
Second Mountain: Private property all along the old access road. Access from Rocky Run ATV trail is all on NF land.
The boulders atop 2nd were originaly accessed via the obvious 2nd Mtn Road. Unfortunately, this road is lined with private property and the landowners have had more than enough of hunters and climbers parking in the road at the NFS gate and blocking some of the last driveways. Access from Rocky Run, 100 yards further down the road, is all on National Forest land and is a nice warm-up hike.
Wintergreen 
Wintergreen: Private property, so keep a low profile.
This area is owned by the resort, so definitely keep a low profile, minimize impact, and clean up after yourself. Occasionally the Beginner Slab will be occupied by a guide from Wintergreen, show some respect and stay out of their way.
East Walls: Private property, so keep a low profile.
This area is owned by the resort, so definitely keep a low profile, minimize impact, and clean up after yourself. Occasionally the Beginner Slab will be occupied by a guide from Wintergreen, show some respect and stay out of their way.
Washington   Exit 32 / Little Si, Index , more 
Central-East Cascades, Wenatchee, & Leavenworth 
Mountain Home (Leavenworth) Area : Seasonal Raptor Closures
mnight_noon_rocks_closure
mnight_noon_rocks_closure <@? echo PostCache::objectEditBar(106793748,"APPROVED","IMAGE", "COMMENT", "edit, move, del, reassign",array(106469372,106469372,106469372),array(105708969,106469372,106745713,106793748),"106469372", "", "" ); ?@>

snowcreek_closure_2010
snowcreek_closure_2010 <@? echo PostCache::objectEditBar(106789466,"APPROVED","IMAGE", "COMMENT", "edit, move, del, reassign",array(106469372,106469372,106469372),array(105708969,106469372,106745713,106789466),"106469372", "", "" ); ?@>

champagne_closure2
champagne_closure2 <@? echo PostCache::objectEditBar(106789469,"APPROVED","IMAGE", "COMMENT", "edit, move, del, reassign",array(106469372,106469372,106469372),array(105708969,106469372,106745713,106789469),"106469372", "", "" ); ?@>

Snow Creek Wall: Seasonal Raptor Closure
2014: There is an active pair of falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure is in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
Forestland Boulders: Day Use Only/No Campfires
Day use only and no campfires in the Forestland/Barney's Rubble parking area and vicinity.
Tumwater Canyon: Seasonal Raptor Closure Update: Noontime and Midnight Rock now open
7/4/2014 Update: Noontime Rock and Midnight Rock are open now that the chicks have successfully fledged.

Every year, Midnight Rock and Noontime Rock are seasonally closed for raptor nesting, April 1 through July 31. All other crags in Tumwater Canyon are open year round.
Barney's Rubble: Day Use Only and No Campfires
Day use only and no campfires in the Forestland/Barney's Rubble parking area and vicinity.
Chaos Boulders: Private property concerns. Tread consciously and be polite.
Private property is downhill (east, or down-canyon) from this area, and currently, the access trail follows a private driveway for 50 feet or so. The boulders are not on private property.
Thankfully, no problems with the landowners have arisen yet. Please be on your best behavior.
Barney's Rubble: Day Use Only and No Campfires
Day use only and no campfires in the Forestland/Barney's Rubble parking area and vicinity.
Central-West Cascades & Seattle 
Gold Bar Boulders: No vehicle access, but open to foot traffic
Washington Climbers Coalition's permittee status under the landowner's easement with Washington State DNR has been revoked due to liability concerns and increased traffic. Vehicular access beyond the gate is currently not allowed. Gold Bar is still open to foot traffic. WCC and Access Fund are actively working with the landowner and DNR to find a solution. Stay posted at www.washingtonclimbers.org.
Snoqualmie Pass: Parking
A Northwest Forest Pass is required to park at the trailhead. In addition, during the winter you can only park at the highest lot if you have an Alpental skiing tag on your car. You will have to park at a lower lot and walk up, if you don't have the tag.
Zeke's Wall: Access is via private land and past a locked gate. Only WCC members are allowed to open the gate and drive the approach road. A WCC sticker and a Discover Pass are both required to drive the approach road.
See washingtonclimbers.org/Climbing/goldbar.htm for current access details. You can join Washington Climbers Coalition for free (if you're a cheapskate!) or as part of an Access Fund membership. WCC membership gets you, among other things, a sticker and the combination to the lock on the gate at Reiter Road.

Please don't cheat. If you share the combination with non WCC members, you jeopardize access. If you drive in without a WCC sticker and a Discover Pass, you jeopardize access. And so on.

Manke owns the land below the wall and has done climbers a HUGE favor by granting climbers and boulderers a legal easement to go past the DNR gate at Reiter Road. Please don't take this one for granted.
Beach Boulders: The land owners are fine with climbers who are respectful
Do not park directly across from mile marker 33 as stated in the guidebook. Just west of the mile marker is a better parking spot which lends to afternoon shade and only adds a few dozen meters of approach. There are private property signs but the land owners in the area expressed concern only with illegal activity and messes; pack out what you pack in and try to leave no trace.
Lisa's Playground: Trail head is difficult due to the frist main bridge being washed out
down stream from the washed out bridge there are relatively three easy crossings via downed trees which can be seen from the bridge. once past the river walk back upstream via the small trail back to the main road across the bridge.

over the next few miles there are a few hill slides/wash outs which cut the trail and make it nearly impossible to see the other end. early spring of 09 i tied ribbons in direct sight lines in tree limbs.
Marymoor Park Outdoor Sport Crag: The location has a $1 parking fee
The Diamond Area: Revised Falcon Closure
Instead of by the nesting near the Davis-Holland route this year, the falcons
decided to nest near the “Diamond.” Consequently the original 2014 closure
has been rescinded and replaced by a new closure on Diamond. Routes on this
section of the Upper Wall will be closed to climbing until 7/1/2014.
The pdf [ www.washingtonclimbers.org/Current/Ind2014closure.pdf ] shows the area now closed to climbing
List of closed routes:
Dark Crystal
Dihedral Route
Centerfold
Jack O’ Diamonds
Hell Bent For Glory
Northeast Corner & Spokane 
Main Wall: Possible Raptor Closure
There is a large Golden Eagle nest on the Main Wall, there has been talk about seasonal closure,as the Golden Eagles require large undisturbed area. There has also been mention of an uninhabited nest for nearly 5 years.
Northwest Region 
Mount Erie: Lower Main Wall/East Buttress Trails Re-opened
"The trail around the south side of Mt. Erie (aka trail No. 247) has been reopened. The access to the Sunrise Trail off of trail #247 is also reopened. Please remember that trail No. 247 crosses three sections of private property. We are grateful for the cooperation of our neighbors that allows us to reopen this trail for public use, please respect their privacy as you enjoy the trail." - Anacortes Parks Department 6/3/14

Periodically there are seasonal raptor closures - check back for updates.
The Bat Caves: No Trespassing
When the DNR reworked the trail "recently" they put up a no trespassing sign at the "Talus Trail" and removed the bridge. The signage says that access was revoked because of worry over the bat's health as they are an endangered species.

www.washingtonclimbers.org/Climbing/batcaves.htm
The Gray Wall: Private Property
BNSF personnel are telling people they are trespassing and need to leave. There's also signage at the top of Gray Wall.
Okanogan 
Mount Hull - Lower SW Face (Oroville): climbing is on public land, parking and access is not
All the orchard land at the base of the cliffs is private. The only public access is from the north (via Whistler Canyon Trailhead).
Olympics & Pacific Coast 
Chimacum Rock : Closed
Chimacum Rock is under new ownership by the Jamestown S'Klallam Tribe. The Tribe has closed it to climbing as a sacred site. A new management plan is being developed to allow limited public access in the future.
Olympia City: In a housing community
No one has bothered us yet but please keep a low profile and be respectful.
Southeast Cascades & Yakima 
Tieton River: Seasonal Raptor Closure
There are no current raptor closures as of 2014. Depending on nest location and success, check back each year for any updates.

Details at www.washingtonclimbers.org/Climbing/tieton.htm
Southwest Cascades 
Mineral Rock: Timber Co.
The area is closed to motor vehicles
Pinto Rock: Pinto Rock is located in the Gifford Pinchot Nation Forest.
West Virginia   Seneca Rocks, Summersville and Gauley River, more 
Bozoo 
Bozoo: Private Property - Access Sensitive
The cliff band is on private property and has recently changed hands, which created some potential access issues. There are a number of "No Trespassing" signs on the land.

The owner of the property is alright with climbers being there. However, the "No Trespassing" signs will stay up, and are only there to "protect himself."

The landowner has also said that he is very pleased with what he's found out about the climbers and the etiquette of the area. He researched it online and found that we've always been very respectful of our privilege to climb there and that we value that privilege greatly.

With that being said, Bozoo is fair game for climbing. AS ALWAYS: BE RESPECTFUL OF THE PROPERTY AND THE AREA. NOT DOING SO COULD RESULT IN ITS PERMANENT CLOSURE.
White Wall: Private property. use common sense.
Coopers Rock State Forest 
McCollum Nature Trail Area: No parking in the campground area
There is a parking lot just outside of the campground, then walk to the trail.
Eagle Rocks 
Eagle Rocks: Private property
Franklin Gorge 
Franklin Gorge: Private Property
Please respect this private property - leave no trace, help remove litter and trash, absolutely no camping, and respect any future wishes of the landowners regarding access.
Nelson Rocks 
Nelson Rocks: Read Access Details!
Access. Nelson Rocks used to operate under the name Nelson Rocks Preserve, which was ran by the Hammett's until a few years ago, upon which time it was bought by Camp Horizons in Harrisonburg Virginia. Therefore, as of right now, until access issues are figured out, Nelson Rocks Outdoor center, is technically closed to unguided climbing, currently we are working out access issues for the area, and i will update them as i am informed.
Pioneer Rocks 
Pioneer Rocks: Private property
Area is known to be private property but climbers have typically been welcome as long as they respect the place. There are no posted signs blocking access that I've seen.
The New River Gorge 
South Side Crags: South side crags access issue.
As of now it seems that a logging company has placed boulders in the road out to the south side crags and they are impassible. This of course hinders access. Check with WaterStone on before heading out or use your own judgment.
MORE 
Baker's Rocks (aka Hanging Rock) : Closed.
Caudey's Castle: Private.
Church: Closed.
Wisconsin   Devil's Lake, Devil's Lake Bouldering, more 
Castle Rock South (Fishin' Crag) 
Castle Rock South (Fishin' Crag): No longer private property. See below.
Central Sandstone 
Central Sandstone: Quincy is closed to climbing, Rattlesnake is open
Quincy Bluff and Wetland Reserve: No climbing is allowed in this nature preserve.
Devil's Lake 
New Sandstone Area: Please note that the New Sandstone area is currently closed to climbing.
Gibralter 
Gibralter: Closed.
Governor Dodge State Park 
Group Camp Z: Private Property
Note that this area is not on Gov Dodge land, it's on private property.
Grant County Ice 
Dickeyville Ice: Ice is on roadcuts off of Hwy 151.
Note that walking or parking on the highway shoulder is illegal. To approach the ice legally, stay beyond the 2 foot berm on the edge of the shoulder.
Razor Wall 
Razor Wall:
It is over the wall by the dam, City owned
Rib Mountain 
Rib Mountain: Bouldering reopened 2013
No rope climbing is allowed in the park.

As always, keep a low profile while bouldering and respect the other rules and park users.
Stevens Point Buildering 
Stevens Point Buildering: Buildering: Not exactly legal
Get ready to leave because you're not necessarily welcome. Although, it really depends on the person and the day. Climbing can exceed an hour at a spot if you're lucky.
Willow River State Park 
Willow River State Park: Open with restrictions:
Climbing is allowed on weekdays when the park is open; however, climbing is NOT allowed on Friday and Sunday after 12 noon. Climbing is not allowed at all on Saturday.
Wyalusing ice 
Wyalusing ice: One of the routes has access issues.
YOU MUST get the landowner's permission to climb Quarry Monster. Dennis lives in the last trailer on the road heading into the quarry.
Wyoming   Devil's Tower, Grand Teton National Park, more 
Abraham spire 
Abraham spire: Check access with park first.
Ask the visitor center for permission to climb this statue!
Converse County Park -- Box Elder Cyn 
Converse County Park -- Box Elder Cyn: Streamside land just downstream of the bridge immediately north of the park is private land
Even thought the land just below the bridge which is just north of the park is private, access to the the north end of the steep canyon parkland can be gained by following a side canyon east from the highway near the north boundary of the park.
Crazy Woman Crags 
Crazy Woman Crags: Open public lands (Forest Service). Respect adjacent landowners.
The land surrounding the crags is a mix of Forest Service and private inholdings. Several of the minor roads lead to private summer cabins, some of which are quite close to the cliffs.

The main roads are all on public property, but don't drive down anything resembling a driveway or leading to a residence. Maintain a low profile when climbing here. Keep dogs in control or consider not bringing them out here. Camp well away from any cabins, watch your campfire carefully, and pack out all trash! The cliffs and access are all on public land and legit, but the proximity to private holdings requires sensitivity and best behavior. Be good stewards to this special area and we'll all enjoy it for years to come!
Devil's Tower 
Devil's Tower: Voluntary Closure Every June and Seasonal Falcon Closures
Aug 2, 2014 Update: The Seasonal Raptor Closure on the west face and the northwest shoulder of Devils Tower was lifted after peregrine falcons successfully fledged.

Seasonal Raptor Closure: Devils Tower National Monument temporarily closes climbing routes on the west face and the northwest shoulder of Devils Tower to protect nesting falcons every year. Such temporary closures are an annual occurrence at Devils Tower established under the 1995 Climbing Management Plan, with authority from the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. Climbers are asked to report any defensive falcon behavior to a park ranger or call 307-467-5283. Please check at the climbing office for updated closure info and a list of all climbing routes which may be closed.

Voluntary Closure Every June: Climbers are asked to respect the voluntary closure for the month of June to respect Devil's Tower's importance as a cultural resource.

To learn more about Devils Tower National Monument, contact 307-467-5283, visit us online at www.nps.gov/deto
Grand Teton National Park 
Cascade Canyon: Baxter’s Pinnacle and Southwest Descent Gully Closed for Nesting Peregrine Falcons
As of May 27, 2014, Baxter’s Pinnacle and its southwest descent gully are closed due to an active peregrine falcon aerie. The area is expected to be opened in August. Grand Teton National Park monitors the area every year to determine whether a seasonal raptor closure is necessary.

Lamburger Rock 
Lamburger Rock: Seasonal Peregrine Nesting
A pair of Peregrines have nested in various spots a couple hundred feet up the south face over the last few years. Do not climb routes adjacent to their nesting sites until mid-summer when they've left the nest. They will become agressive if they feel you're encroaching upon the nest!
Consider climbing elsewhere in the early summer, or on the West Prow and the Taurine Corridor.
Laradise 
Laradise: bouldering is often illegal
Laramie Range 
Black Dike Walls: This area is 100% BLM lands
Laramie Range: There is a lot of private land around.
Bring a good map, DO NOT TRESSPASS (land owners might shoot at you).
Laramie Peak Wildlife Habitat Management Area: Some areas within this allotment are private. Zones within this management area have seasonal closures.
Duck Creek Canyon: There is a zone of private land on Duck Creek extending from House Log Creek to Pole Creek
Sometimes such landowners will let you walk over portions of their land especially if you are not fishing or hunting. In the case of this land no one lives within miles to ask permission so plan your trip accordingly. You can get land owner addresses from the Albany County Courthouse.
Gibbs Canyon Rocks: All or at least a portion of this rock is on private property
The Gibbs Canyon Ranch foreman is your contact. Pay the trespassing fee to him and you can climb it. I do not know how much the fee is. The ranch house is about 0.1 mile NE of this rock after going through the red gated 2-track that is just south and east of the rock. The ranch house is visible on the detailed Google photo of this area.
Reese Mountain: There are 2 quarters of a quarter sections of private land at the Ashley Confluence with Duck Creek.
The Duck Creek hiking trail passes over these 2 sub-quarters. The Sherard-Nixon families permit hiking only over this land. NO hunting, fishing, fires or camping while on this land. Note: The 300 ft cone like rock just east of the confluence is on state land.
NW Buttress of Reese Mtn: Notch Peak Ranch owns the land.
Ranch foreman Mr.Gabby lives down Ashley Creek
Salt Creek Dome: Some of the more northerly access to these rocks may be on private land.
The SW of the NE of sec 12 has a retreat cabin and is private. Stay south of their fence lines and out of the 40 acre parcel.
Sellers Mountain: To drive to Sellers Mountain BLM lands requires permission.
Access to the roads south of the south boundary of the BLM lands of Sellers Mt is spanned from Garrett Rd by 1/4 mi of private unfenced land. The owner of this narrow zone is William Sturgeon who lives 1/2 mi NE of Garrett, WY. Home/Ranch location is GPS -105.59623 & 42.11939.

It is legal to corner step public sections in Albany Co and such a way exists to walk only that entails some 2.25 miles beginning from the high ridge south of this exit off Garrett Rd on the east side that does not require permission. After big game hunting season starts [September 1] William generally does not allow climber types to cross his land and interfere with outfitting.

William drinks Bud, but when you bring him the case as a trespassing fee don't forget to pick up that avalanche of beer cans out your floor boards when opening your car door to greet him.
Haystack Peaks: The easiest access is on private land where a permit [cheap = $5] can be obtained.
Lower Duck Creek Canyon: East of sec 3, R71W, T23N the land along Duck Creek is Private.
Halleck Canyon and Flying V Ranch Rock: Overton Mt is BLM while the Flying V Ranch land is private.
Downey Park: Some private land exists throught this valley.
Check locally with land status map.
9000 Venture Series: There is private land for some paths.
The Wyoming law for trespassing states that it is the landowner's job to inform people of trespassing either by local signage or verbally. If there are no "No Tresspassing" signs and you haven't been told you cannot cross the land, you are not in violation of trespassing. But once on the land you are still liable for any damages you incur while on the private property. So leave no trace when using this privilege.

Knowing the above, I suggest do not drive on any roads labeled as private nor labeled as no trespassing on road. However, I have entered these roads when seeking permission from a landowner to further use these roads. Be warned, some greetings will be entirely welcome under these pretenses.

Most of the time the private land near these high points is not posted nor is it fenced, but it may on rare occasions be occupied during Elk Hunting Season, which begins Sept 1.
Bear Head Mountain: FS 640 off Cottonwood Park closed Sept 1 for Elk Hunting
FS Rd 640 is the Arapaho Trail 2-tract and is open all year from the west. Sometime Bear Creek is impassible.
Squaw Rock and the Cooney Hills: The land near these landmarks is a patchwork of public and private.
Black Mountain: The summit has a fire lookout tower/residence.
During fire season this tower is attended 24 hrs a day by live-in fire spotter. Visitors are welcome on the summit rock but the lookout building is a private residence. They may sleep odd hours so do not disturb them. Drilling?? Do not disturb!! They are gone sometimes, but check.
Pinedale Area 
Powerline Boulder: Agricultural Production Land
I've never had issues on this boulder. But owner may or may not want climbers on this boulder. I have not been able to contact this land owner.
Private Property: Private Land
If you can find owners ask for permission, otherwise, be careful and don't park in obvious places
Scab Creek Access Road: Some Private Property
String of fences, make sure you're careful with parking
Ragged Top 
Ragged Top: These rocks lie entirely on private land and the formations are surrounded entirely by private land.
Contact current owners by getting their addresses from Albany County Courthouse, Laramie, WY. Legal description is sec 22 R71W, T17 N.
Sweetwater Rocks 
Lankin Dome: Close gates after passing through
For respect of the local ranchers, always close the gates after passing through. Approach from the Nolan Pocket side is usually not restricted but there are closures for grazing leases on the Lankin Gap side from March-June. Be polite and non-confrontive to ranchers.
Haystack: crossing private land to access public areas
The Great Stone Face: crossing private land
Vedauwoo 
Vedauwoo: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014
Per Henry Lester: all the dirt roads into the climbing and camping areas are closed to motorized vehicles until July 2015 because of resource degradation.

Per Henry Lester: all the roads have been reopened as of June 2014.
w: Climbing is illegal within the reservation.
Climbers may be fined and have their equipment (including car) confiscated and have to go court on the Reservation if caught.
White Rock 
White Rock: Local Landowners Ask Be Respectful
No overnight camping and no fires!
White Rock: Be Respectful
The local landowners have allowed climbing and route setting here the only thing they ask is no fires and no camping overnight. Pack your trash out.
MORE 
Ayres Park and Natural Bridge: Closed.
Fish Creek Boulder: Closed.
Whoopup Canyon: Closed.